Eat Magazine - Wine of the Week

Viu Manent Reserva Carmenere 2008

Sun, 7 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Colchagua Valley, Rapel Valley, Chile

$20-23

The February 27th, 8.8 magnitude earthquake and ensuing tsunami had a real affect on Chile’s wine industry. Not just to the wineries and cellars, but most importantly, to the homes of the vineyard and winery workers. The majority of the damage occurred to the Maule, Cachapoal and Colchagua areas – all major wine regions. An assessment by Wines of Chile indicates that the damage sustained by wineries affected less than 13% of the country’s cellared wine. This equals approximately US $250M. Supply to countries around the world will not be affected and the 2010 harvest, which has begun in the northern wine regions, is proceeding as planned.

The best way to help these wineries – and their real life human resources – is to keep purchasing Chilean wine. Not that you need any other reasons to pick up this lovely red. Though Carmenere can be a stemmy hard sell in the wrong hands, when yields are low and care is taken, wines like this result. A dark ruby hue and whiffs of black cherry, ash and cedar is your introduction to this bottle of 100 percent Carménère. On the palate, characteristic Chilean leafy herbaceousness balances out with savory dark chocolate, ripe black plum and leather. A fourteen-month stint in French Oak plumps up the mouthfeel and softens the tannins. Pair with meaty pasta – carmenere can take the salty olives, bell peppers and chunky tomatoes that scare many big reds.

The Colchagua Valley, where Viu Manent is centered, lies within the Rapel Valley Wine District, sandwiched between the foothills of the Andes and the winds of the Pacific. Wine Enthusiast named Colchagua Valley as Wine Region of the Year 2005, and numerous international wineries have invested here, including Rothschild-Lafite.

*** stars

By Treve Ring – online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Sea Cider Kings & Spies 2007

Sat, 27 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Saanich Peninsula, Vancouver Island

$15 for 750ml bottle

Even though the weather of late would seem otherwise, it is still winter. Apples are one of the few local fruits that are available through February in BC. Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse knows all about apples, growing organic heritage apples for their traditional, English-style ciders. The apples in this (very coolly named!) cider however are not all grown on their oceanfront site, but from Victoria’s backyards, in partnership with LifeCycles (see below).

Local Kings and Northern Spies make up the bulk of the blend in this gently effervescent cider. A muted sweet pear nose leads to creamy apple, crisp pear and nutty flavours and mellow acidity. We enjoyed this with grilled pork chop and mashed yams. Bonus points for the hefty glass resealable bottles. Website

* LifeCycles is a nonprofit organization dedicated to cultivating awareness and initiating action around food, health, and urban sustainability in the Greater Victoria community that promotes food education. They work proactively to promote and create personal, shared and community gardens, research, and educational activities and youth skills development programs. Every year they organize volunteers to pick unwanted tree fruits from Victoria’s backyards for use in packaged product, or to feed the lesser fortunate. Website

** and a half stars

By Treve Ring – online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Ogier & Fils Les Brunnelles 2006 Crozes-Hermitage

Tue, 23 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Rhone Valley, France

$27-33

Wines like this remind me just how much I love Rhone wines. These non-pretentious, solid and ruggedly tamed wines can be intoxicating. To me, these are reliable and earthy delights – polished, but with an honest and rustic patina. This 100% Syrah is no exception – and a fantastic Crozes-Hermitage for the price. Unmistakable cracked black pepper and wild raspberry aromas, and an exciting spicy palate of vibrant dark raspberry, cherry, pepper, salted meats, violet and sweet vanilla. Concentrated, full bodied and fruit driven, with tannins grippy enough to stand up to that porterhouse tonight – no need to wait a few years. Very well done and great value for price – an attractive, impressive Northern Rhone Syrah to drink now.

In 1859, Christophe Ogier establishes a wine merchants company called Ogier & Fils, which was handed down to his son Antoine in 1895, with a name change to A. Ogier & Fils. In 1948, the company morphed into that of a négociant-éleveur, buying grapes and wine from certain quality growers and crafting their own house cuvées from them.

**** stars

By Treve Ring – online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery Tribute NV

Fri, 12 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

$30-35

O CANADA!

I can’t say no to sparkling – especially when it comes from the hand of Sumac Ridge’s senior winemaker Mark Wendenberg, arguably the Okanagan’s best at handcrafted sparkling wines (Stellar’s Jay and Pinnacle are proof).

His latest bubbly, Tribute, created with Sumac Ridge winemaker Jason James, is 100% Chardonnay, created in the painstaking and shortcut-free traditional method, aging for 16 months in bottle before release this summer.

And a fitting tribute this Tribute is - With the purchase of every bottle, $1.25 is donated directly to the Canadian Olympic team and the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic winter games. Bright aromas of citrus, crisp apple and perfumed floral notes lead to a creamy palate of baked Granny Smith, zippy lemon, honey and creamy lees. Big and ripe style – certainly podium-worthy.

And we all know there is no better way to celebrate Canada on the podium next than with a Tribute toast.

**Buzz is that Sumac Ridge’s Mark Wendenberg and team are working on expanding the winery’s beautiful bubbly bevies – watch for future bottles of both a sparkling rose and sparkling Gewurztraminer. So exciting – I’ll toast to that!

*** and a half stars

Website

By Treve Ring – online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Inniskillin Okanagan Riesling Icewine 2007

Sat, 6 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Okanagan Valley

$35-40 for 200ml, $60-65 for 375ml

This was such an easy choice for this week. Why? Because Inniskillin Icewine dominance is realized worldwide. Because the company’s icewine was selected by Oprah Winfrey as a Valentine’s Day suggestion this year. Because it was served to accompany the dessert course at the Nobel Prize dinner at which president Obama received his Peace Prize in December 2009. Because here, on the eve of the Winter Olympics and the world’s attention on BC, we should recognize Canada’s famous contribution to the wine world. Because Valentine’s Day is next weekend. And most important - because it’s delicious!

Ripe peach and apricot aromas lead to rich flavours of juicy pear, orange, apple and intense apricot. Lush and tropical – with a bright Riesling acidity to balance out the incredible creamy sweetness.

This precious elixir was made from hand harvested Riesling grapes naturally frozen on the vine from highly regarded Dark Horse Vineyard. Only a few drops of highly concentrated juice come from each frozen bunch. This particular vintage was harvested on New Year’s Day, 2008. We’re spoiled in B.C. with a climate suitable for annual icewine production. For the majority of the globe, icewine is a rare delicacy.

The conditions required to produce icewine are harsh, regulated and strict – in a nutshell: grapes must be frozen naturally on the vine at a minimum temperature of -8 degrees celcius, for a minimum of 4 hours and at least 35 Brix sweetness. The grapes must be picked and pressed immediately – usually in the vineyard (don’t forget it’s below freezing!). I’d say that easily deserves a gold medal.

Website

*** and a half stars

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Heggies Vineyard Chardonnay 2008

Mon, 1 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Eden Valley, Australia

$28-31

Chardonnay is the world's most well known and widely planted white wine grape. In recent times, its popularity and mass-production spawned the ABC (“Anything But Chardonnay”) Backlash. The heyday of the giant, flabby uber-oaked Californian examples is – thankfully – over. But oak isn’t bad for chardonnay – in fact, it can be magic (hello white Burgundy). Successful new world oaked chards strive for stylish subtlety and balance– and if you want to taste what I mean, forget the ABC’s and pick up a bottle of Heggies.

There are seven different selections of Chardonnay clones at Heggies, with three favoured French variants comprising the majority of this wine. New and used French oak is tempered by vibrant tropical fruit. Richly textured and full bodied, with bright citrus, creamy pear, toasted almond spice and a lovely vein of minerality. A big vanillan finish can overwhelm a lot of foods, so pair weight with weight – think butter.

*** stars

Website

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Castillo de Monséran Garnacha 2008

Sat, 23 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Cariñena, Aragon, Spain

$11-13

Earlier this month I wrote about a great value white that over delivers for price – and here’s a red counterpart. As much as people love to gripe about the BCLS, we have them to thank for making this value red a consistent bargain in BC. This is a stellar everyday drinking wine – suitable for everything from burgers to pasta to pizza to poultry. A perennial party and restaurant by-the-glass favourite, you can afford to buy this by the case. Castillo de Monséran focuses on just one thing – Garnacha (aka Grenache) – so you have to figure they know their stuff. And they certainly do – fruity raspberry and peppery spice aromas lead to a medium bodied, old-world styled sipper of dusty raspberry, cedar, plum and black currant. Nice balance and fresh finish – all this for approximately $11!

When I purchased this wine a couple of days ago, the clerk waxed poetic about the “Carinena” wine making up this bottle. Yes, Carignan is a red wine grape popular in the south of France, but Cariñena is a region in Spain. An honest – and somewhat cute – mistake, and a great example of how a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.

** stars

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Starling Lane Winery Maréchal Foch 2007

Sat, 16 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Saanich Peninsula, Vancouver Island, BC

$24-26

This is a storming wine. Big gutsy flavour for big blustery days – like January in BC. Foch is a wine that people either love or love to hate – there’s no middle ground. But really – what’s not to love about Starling Lane’s version? A dark ruby colour, with plush vanilla, dark raspberry, deep plum, dusty cocoa, and a lovely spicy finish. Nice acidity - and thankfully none of the gaminess that would turn this love story sour. This is a big red from a cool climate! Partner with slow roasted venison or lamb, cracked pepper and glazed root veg.

Maréchal Foch [MAY-ray-shahl FOHSH] is a hybrid, grown in North America. A hybrid is a breeding between two species of vine, in this case vitis vinifera and vitis riparia – in the hopes of gaining the positive benefits of both species.

This wine is sold out at the winery, but there are still a few bottles available at select private liquor stores and savvy restaurants. Tip – get on Starling Lane’s contact list and reserve for next vintage.

*** and a half stars

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Boutari Kretikos

Sat, 9 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Crete, Greece

$12-14

Is your resolution to spend less? Be more adventurous? Expand your vocabulary? Well – do I have the wine for you! While we’re facing the wet BC winter weather, let your thoughts and palate take you to sunny Greece. Even the vibrant blue label harkens the Mediterranean Sea.

Boutari is the Robert Mondavi of Greece, with the winery dating back to 1879 and wine domination pretty much continually since. Kretikos’ blend will most likely add some new grapes to add to your tasting repertoire: Vilana, Thrapsathiri and Athiri. This pleasantly simple white has wafts of peach and grapefruit aromas and a fresh palate of dried apricot, citrus and almonds. Bright acidity and refreshing aromatic finish exceed the steal of a price. Would be a lovely match to creamy cheeses.

** and a half

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2008

Mon, 28 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Asti, Piedmont, Italy

$18-21 for 375ml

With the holidays, it’s bubble, bubble, bubble all the time. I’ve had Sekt, Cava, Champagne, Sparkling Icewine and BC bubble – all in the past week alone! I was going to write about a fine French Champagne for revelers to ring in 2010, but when I ran across this bottle in my cellar, I decided to write about a brunch bubble instead.

Why? For one, most partiers have no idea what they’re drinking by the time the clock strikes midnight, so why waste a good bottle of champers? And two – this wine is absolutely delicious! No, really – this is oceans away from the fizzy-fruit loop Asti Spumante of your youth. While both are crafted from the same grape variety (Muscat Blanc á Petits Grains), Moscato d’Asti is produced in much smaller quantities and with much higher regulations.

The result is a mid-sweet, slightly fizzy wine (frizzante) with orange blossom and ripe peach aromas and refreshing mandarin, peaches-and-cream and citrus notes on the palate. And thanks to its low alcohol content (5.5%), Moscato d’Asti can easily be enjoyed early in the day. Enjoy with your New Year’s Day brunch – or perhaps as your Hair of the Dog remedy.

*** and a half

**Trivia to impress your brunch mates: Frizzante [freet-TSAHN-teh] is an Italian term meaning "lightly sparkling", and describes wines with light effervescence. Frizzante wines are made with less pressure than those labeled spumante. Frizzante wines are equivalent to pétillant in France and spritzig in Germany.

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Fonseca Guimaraens

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Champagne and oysters, Pinot Noir and truffles - Christmas and Port? In my mind anyway, these are natural pairings. Much like rum and eggnog, I can’t quite imagine one without the other in my holidays.

Fonseca Guimaraens [fawn-SAY-kuh GIH-mah-rahns] is a classic port house, and whether you’ve been good, or very, very good this year might just determine which Fonseca bottle Santa picks up for you on his flight over Portugal’s Douro Valley.

First off – for the good: Fonseca 10 Year Old Tawny is a mainstay, and for good reason. With an average in-cask age of ten years, this wine has had enough time to smooth out the edges and transform into a complex, elegant elixir. Honeyed and rich with a walnut rancio nuttiness throughout, this port has a lot going for it - grippy tannins, seductive nose and a graceful finish. Fantastic value around the $20 mark for 375ml. Aged tawnys will not improve once bottled – all the more reason to drink right now! *** and a half

And for the very, very good: Fonseca Vintage Port 2007. 2007 was easily deemed worthy of a Vintage Port (only declared in above average vintages). The finest grapes and finest wines are selected and meticulously blended for maximum intensity, depth and aging potential. On average, this happens three times/decade at Fonseca – and 2007 is one of those blockbuster years. A highly potent nose of rich floral, cherry and chocolate leads to a voluptuous and dense sweet palate of spice, anise, tea, wild cherry, wood, dark chocolate and vanilla. Rich, seamlessly balanced with a lengthy fruit finish. Such a delight to drink – and will only improve over the next 10+ years. ****

Pair the tawny (liberally) throughout the holiday season with roasted nuts, dried fruits, hard milder cheeses or classic vanilla crème brûlée. A personal fave is tawny meets hazelnut torte. And for the 2007 Vintage Port? On its own, by the fire with a very special someone. Santa perhaps?

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

10 year old tawny - 3.5 stars

Vintage Port 2007 - 4 stars

—By Treve Ring, online wine editor

Sandhill Wines Small Lots Program Sangiovese 2006

Mon, 14 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Okanagan Valley

$30.00 – $32.00

Want to stump your buds at your next blind tasting? Bring this in your brown bag. This Sangiovese (the grape of Italy’s Chianti wines) was grown right here in BC – and is the only Sangiovese planting in the Okanagan (in Canada?) to date. Here it is blended with 12.5% Barbera to up the body and deepen the colour. Spicy black cherry and violet aromas lead to a earthy palate of pepper, herbs, anise, cedar and ripe cherries. The tannins are dark cocoa dry, the body is bantamweight and the finish is lengthy and elegant. Pair with Parmigiano Reggiano, crusty bread and tomato sauced polenta. *** and a half

Sandhill Winemaster Howard Soon is a legend in BC – and this year’s honour of Winery of the Year at the Canadian Wine Awards is a well deserved nod to a man and wine program that never compromises. His Small Lots program wines are cult favourites – all handcrafted on a small scale (only 644 of this Sangiovese vintage was produced) and snapped up quickly. www.sandhillwines.ca/

-by Treve Ring, online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Deinhard, Sparkling Diamant

Sun, 13 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

$4.25 – $4.75 for 200ml

Sure to be a hit at holiday parties, these cutie little single serving (who are they kidding? Pass me a case!) sparklers come in a 200ml aluminum bottle-can. Optimal for chilling quickly, packing in a purse, and of course, recycling, these distinctively packaged wines are designed for the ice bucket at your next soiree. The 100% Riesling, slightly effervescent sipper has fresh, large bubbles and flavours of crisp green apple and sweet candied peach. It finishes off-dry – and quickly – and is just plain fun to drink, especially when wearing a holiday sweater and munching on roasted nuts. Nothing serious here – but who wants a serious party anyway? **

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Joie PTG 2007

Fri, 4 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

BC | $30.00-32.00

Go figure. These two could make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. Passetoutegrain, a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay, is not exactly the belle of the Beaune, but boy does this wine hit all the right buttons. PTG combines the best attributes of both partners. It is medium bodied with ripe cherry, spice and smoke flavours, a silky smooth texture and a long persistent finish. Very highly recommended! www.joie.ca

- Reviewed by Larry Arnold

Tantalus Vineyards Riesling 2008

Sat, 28 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Okanagan Valley, BC

$22.90 - $25.00

When a little ol’ wine from little ol’ BC garners acclaim from one of the world’s leading wine authors, authorities and palates, it’s pretty freaking impressive. This past summer, Jancis Robinson, the author of Oxford Companion to Wine aka "the greatest wine book ever published” visited BC, and had this to say about the Tantalus Riesling 2008 (one of her top 10 Canadian wine picks):

“Truly outstanding. Very pure, fine Riesling aromas. Great spread of tight but not austere character across the palate. Great balance and length. This one should run and run.”

It’s easy to understand her enthusiasm. Vibrant citrus, green apple and fresh melon flavours, with juicy acidity, focused concentration and a lengthy finish make this wine a true pleasure to drink. Without a doubt, one of BC’s best wines. Long, cool fermentation has prolonged the fresh, crisp fruit – this Riesling is crafted from the 2nd press of the free run juice that makes up their Old Vine Riesling.

When I was up in the Okanagan this past September, I bought a case of this Riesling to drink now – plus a few bottles of the Old Vine Riesling to lay down for 3-5 years. The Tantalus Winery of my visit will look vastly different from the Tantalus of today. A brand-new ultra modern and architecturally stunning winery and tasting room were nearing completion when I visited, and I had the unexpected pleasure of a tour from winery GM (and jack of all trades) Jane Hatch. Jane, who I’m sure had a gazillion things going on preparing for harvest, graciously took the time to show us the stunning new 12,000 sq. ft building – LEED certified (BC’s first LEED winery) and window heavy – taking advantage of the view over their vines on the hillside below but also to maximize natural light whenever possible. One entire glass wall of the tasting room has been made to open, blurring the lines between inner and outer vineyard experience. There are also windows between the raised tasting room, and the tank room, allowing visitors to see production in process and become connected to the process. ****

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2009

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Beaujolias, Burgundy, France

$14.35

Beaujolias Nouveau is always released worldwide on the third Thursday of November. This seemingly strange ritual began over a century ago as a way for the French to have instant wines to celebrate the holidays with vineyard workers and their families – and to thank them for the recent harvest. Unlike the vast majority of red wines, which take months from picking to completion, Beaujolais Nouveau uses carbonic maceration, resulting in fast, drinkable wine within weeks. Th e grapes are always 100% Gamay, and though each vintage is different (the 2009 is said to be the finest in the past 50 years), the finished wine is always a light bodied, very fruity and fun, non-serious sipper.

The same goes for this year. And this wine, by ‘The King of Beaujolais’ Duboeuf is exactly what one would expect. The biggest surprise from Georges Duboeuf is what new label he is going to select for each Nouveau vintage. Light hued and bodied, with candied gummy fruit aromas and crisp flavours of cherry, violets, dry raspberry and cinnamon. Best drunk slightly chilled – an ideal accompaniment to a turkey-cran sandwich or as a pick me up after holiday shopping.

** and a half

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Bodegas Ostatu Crianza 2006

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Rioja Alavesa DOC, Spain

$24.99

Aromas of spice, soft cinnamon, blackberry and a whiff of violets lead to smooth and lush dark berry, vanilla, and ripe plum, with a pleasing current of minerality throughout. Sophisticated and new-worldly styled Rioja. With roasted pork loin sided with cherry compote, this will be a knockout.

Rioja Alavesa is the smallest of three sub-regions of Rioja region. Its higher altitude and cooler temperature allows the grapes to achieve moderate acidity, and the soils of the vineyards are rich in clay and limestone, contributing to the mineral tones present in many of the wines from here.

***

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Lillet Blanc

Sat, 7 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Podensac, France

$19.99

This weekend’s Art of the Cocktail got me thinking to my own small-yet-mighty home cocktail bar selections. While Lillet Blanc is generally sipped on its own as an aperitif, I’ve taken a shine to having it on hand for cocktails as well (my Vesper recipe below). Lillet [Lee-Lay] is an aromatized wine, from a blend of wine, liqueurs, fruits and herbs. The ‘aromatized’ moniker comes from the infusion of the flavouring agents, which have been a carefully guarded secret since 1887. This was the birth of Lillet, and it has been made continually since, in the village of Podensac, 20 miles south of Bordeaux. Subtle apricots, sweet candied orange and honey aromas lead to an off dry, subtly bitter palate with perfumed citrus, earthiness and orange oils. A long, lingering, balanced orange finish just begs for a second glass.

As mentioned above, classically Lillet is served as an aperitif, over ice, with an orange twist. 007’s bevvy of choice was the Vesper – so if it’s good enough for him… Shaken, not stirred: 1 part Vodka, 3 parts Gin, 1 part Lillet Blanc. Garnish with a lemon twist and pass the roasted almonds.

—By Treve Ring

Albino Armani Claps Cabernet Franc 2007

Thu, 5 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Friuli – Grave – DOC

$19.99

I have a love/hate relationship with Cabernet Franc. When the grape is treated gently – letting the spicy, herbal, bright fruit shine – I love. But when, as is much more oft the case, the vintner throws a big stack of wood at it and turning it into a smoky firebomb – I hate. Thus, I’m always leary to try new Cab Francs – do I dare? But this wine has restored my faith in this wonderful grape – for the time being at least – and while I can still find it on the shelves.

The Armani family has been handcrafting wines in northeastern Italy for over 400 years, now encompassing large estates in Veneto, Trentino and Friuli. This Friulian Cab Franc – like its surrounding inhabitants – is proudly without compromise. No oak bombs here. Bright, pale red in hue, a spicy cherry nose entices to a medium bodied palate of raspberry, cassis, herbs, hay and white pepper. Lovely finesse and balance – pair with roast poultry, game or sausages. This grape thrives in the cool, marginal climate of Friuli. If only BC winemakers would strive for Cab Franc with this finesse and honesty, as opposed to the hot, charred wines so many churn out. For $20 – this is a steal. Just don’t buy it all off our shelves before I get a chance to get some more.

*** and a half

- Treve Ring, online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Flechas de los Andes Gran Malbec 2006

Wed, 4 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Argentina $33.00-36.00

This monster from Mendoza will put paid to all those who doubt the potential of Malbec from Argentina not to mention Kosher wine from the planet. Flechas de los Andes is a joint venture between Baron Benjamin de Rothschild and Laurent Dassault, one of the orginal partners in Michel Rolland’s Clos de los Siete project. Coming in at a whopping 15.5% alcohol this incredible Ǖber-Malbec is black as pitch and as dense as a dwarf star. Super concentrated, with black cherry, pepper and earth aromas, this brute will stain the crystal, not to mention everything else it comes into contact with. It does not let up on the palate, au contraire, my pasty little friends; the dense fruit flavours come at your genteel unsuspecting palate in unrelenting waves of deliciousness. Oh, did I say 15.5% Well you would never know it; smooth as your baby’s bottom, with a mind blowing finish! Very tasty but avoid spillage!

Reviewed by Larry Arnold

Laughing Stock Vineyards Portfolio 2007

Tue, 27 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

&nbs

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley

$40.00

In light of the recent worldly financial markets, it can be difficult to gauge whether to Buy! Hold! Cellar! Laughing Stock’s Portfolio. Do you quaff it now, enjoying the thoroughly ready-to-drink big Bordeaux-styled red? Or do you lie it down for a couple of years, hoping your asset pays off? Either way, this one is a winning investment.

Luckily, Laughing Stock owners, winemakers and founders David and Cynthia Enns didn’t get the memo that BC can’t produce big reds. Thus, their aim to produce the highest quality small production wines from the Valley was a high risk stock that has paid off in spades. Again with the 2007 vintage, all five classic Bx varietals are used here: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The result is a richly textured, very structured sipper. Big dark berry fruit, smooth vanilla and dark cocoa blend seamlessly to the finish. And if you can wait, you’ll be richly rewarded, as this will prove even more plush and elegant in 6-8 years time.

*** 3 stars now (but I’ll bet the bank on 3.5 stars in a few years time)

Reviewed by Treve Ring, EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Weingut Rudolf Rabl Grüner Veltliner Spiegel 2006

Tue, 20 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Kamptal, Austria

$19.95

Does our Wet Coast weather leave you in a funk? Not feeling groovy? One easy way to let a little sunshine in is with a bottle of this fresh and fabulous Grüner Veltliner [GROO-ner FELT-lih-ner] a.k.a. GV or GruVee. Clean, stunningly bright nose of citrus, minerals and apples leads to a crisp palate with lemon-lime and nectarine fruit, floral notes, and a tart finish. Medium bodied, with a wafting hint of satisfying honey sweetness and racy acidity, GV makes for a very friendly food wine. From spring rolls to shellfish to sushi to creamy cheeses, – or just enjoy solo and feel the rainclouds melt away. GV is synonymous with Austria, where it has been cultivated since Roman times. It is also planted in Hungary, The Czech Republic, Slovakia and Slovenia. It is also called Grünmuskateller and Veltlini, as well as simply Grüner.

*** and a half

Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Compendium 2006

Wed, 14 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Mission Hill Family Estate Winery – Compendium 2006

Osoyoos & Oliver, Okanagan Valley, BC

$40.00

Part of Mission Hill’s ultra-premium Legacy Series, this inaugural release is a little brother to heavy hitter Oculus.

They have the same genes - both crafted from the same grapes (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot), and high attention to detail (designated block, hand sorted, gravity filled, small French oak fermented, etc.). But while Oculus is designed to peak over the next 10 years or so, Compendium is pretty much good to go now. Which isn’t to say that this wine won’t improve with a couple of years too – it will – it’s just that with the spicy herbed cedar and dark raspberry aromas, and the lovely deep flavours of savoury tobacco, cocoa, gravel and raspberry, this wine is delish enough to finish off right now. Smooth, fine tannins and a lengthy juicy finish make this little brother very approachable. It was a standout for me at a recent Legacy Series tasting – the stars all over my tasting book proving that Compendium is a great addition to an already impressive lineup.

Drink this Bordeaux blend now while Oculus sits in your cellar.

*** and a half

- Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Segura Viudas Lavit Rosado Brut NV

Fri, 9 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Thanksgiving weekend. The turkey is ordered, the shopping is done, the inlaws are en route – you’re going to need wine. And with so many other decisions to ponder this weekend (sausage vs wild rice stuffing, ham vs. turkey, pumpkin vs. pecan pie), let me make your wine choice easy for you. Bubbly. Pink bubbly at that.

Versatile enough to service turkey, ham or vegetarian (sorry Tofurky lovers – I don’t think anything can help you), plus the cornucopia of side dishes that this holiday brings. This Rosado (rosé) is fruitier and creamier than the standard Segura Viudas Brut (one of the top cava on this market). Pale salmon in hue, this Trepat-Monastrell-Garnacha blend has fresh, minerally raspberry aromas and a palate of nuts, citrus, bright cherry, pomegranate and wild strawberry. Nice fruit sweetness makes this appealing to a wide audience, and sparkling always makes an occasion more festive – stock up. ***

* Trepat is a rarely seen black grape variety, used primarily for rosé cava and grown in the Tarragona and Penedès area of Catalonia, in North East Spain.

- Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Quails’ Gate – Tawny NV

Sun, 4 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Okanagan Valley

$30.00 for 375ml

I had a great tasting at Quails’ Gate recently, and while I could easily write on multiple QG wines, this column is called WINE (sing. not plu.) of the Week for a reason. Hmm – so how to chose? There’s the floral-meets-green apple crisp Chenin Blanc 2008 (the 2007 vintage was the only white wine served to Obama during his Ottawa visit earlier this year), and the Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 (an incredibly smooth, refined and earthily elegant wine).

Well, this little fortified beauty was 8 years in the making, only 800 cases were released last year, and the next time the cycle comes around won’t be for another few years. So that’s reason enough! Call to action – try now!

Plus the fact that this very unusual wine has stuck in my mind for over a week – and has me kicking myself for not picking up a bottle for my cellar. Started in 2000, this 100% Gamay Noir was fortified with spirit and carefully cellar aged in French oak for 60-84 months. Pointed aromas of orange oil, rancio and aged cedar lead to silky and rich butterscotch, honeyed citrus, candied fruit and herbs. Nice acid throughout, with medium sweetness (I’d guess 5 on the sweetness scale) and light tannins. This wine will continue to gain complexity over the next few years and would be delightful with roasted nuts and dried Okanagan fruit. And if you don’t buy some soon – don’t say I didn’t warn you. ***

- Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Viña Errazuriz Chardonnay Wild Ferment 2007

Sat, 26 Sep 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Casablanca Valley, Aconcagua, Chile

$22.00

Monday, September 28th is the annual Wines of Chile tasting event in Vancouver. 30 Chilean wineries will be represented – including Viña Errazuriz, one of Chile’s most lauded and respected. And it’s no wonder – they’ve had lots of time to perfect their skills. Don Maximiano Errazuriz founded the winery more than 128 years ago – in 1870!

This Chardonnay is named ‘Wild Ferment’ because of the use of a natural or ‘wild yeast’ ferment. Instead of adding packaged yeast, the pressed juice is allowed to slowly ferment in stainless steel with the indigenous vineyard yeasts in the area. The result is a complex aroma of spiced apple, pear and toasty lees. These notes are echoed in the rich, medium bodied palate, along with honey, mineral, herbs, nectarine skin and ashy lees. The mouthfeel is creamy, yet it finishes crisp. Very unique and different. Try with a seafood risotto. ***

Check out www.ccltd.ca/winesofchile for details on next week’s Wines of Chile tasting and dinner event.

Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Chateau Mourgues du Gres - Les Galets Rouges 2007

Mon, 21 Sep 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Costieres de Nimes AC, France

$18.99 BCLS

I love, love, love it when I find a wine that drinks way beyond its price point. So I was pretty happy when I tried this little gem. This blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and old vine Carignan is from the Southern part of the Rhône Valley, and the vineyards are a few short miles from the Rhône River. The wine takes its name from the numerous galets – round, flat stones – that make up the terrain. And the minerality of the region comes through in the flavours of this wine, along with aromatic ripe, dark fruit, waves of floral notes, cocoa and peppery spice.

Nice acidity throughout with a full body and lingering and satisfying finish. Tastes much more expensive than it is. Lovely to drink now – especially with braised meats or sausages – but will continue to gain complexity over the next couple of years. Bring on fall! ****

Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Château des Charmes Chardonnay Musqué 2007

Mon, 14 Sep 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

$18.99 BCLS

You don’t see too many Niagara wines in the BC market - in fact, in this province it’s easy to forget that BC isn’t the centre of the Canadian winemaking universe (sorry!). This is proof positive that our Eastern kin are excelling at expressing their terroir as well. Château des Charmes is one of the larger wineries in Niagara, and founder Paul Bosc pioneered this unique Chardonnay clone in the Niagara Peninsula. The area now excels at Musqué, the unique grape being well suited to the soils and climate. This full-bodied charmer is unoaked, allowing the ripe fruit flavours to shine. Aromatic honeysuckle and spice lead to tangy citrus and sweet, zippy melon-apple flavours. This lush white has an intoxicating spice quality (white pepper?), lovely honeyed texture throughout, and a nice lengthy finish. Pair with poultry or lighter pork dishes and spice-roasted squash – perfect for fall. *** and a half

By Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Sokol Blosser 2006 Pinot Noir

Thu, 10 Sep 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Darryl Lamb, Manager of Firefly Fine Wines and Ales in Vancouver shares this pick —and a good story to go with it:

"Sokol Blosser is a beautiful 72 acre winery located in the heart of Oregon’s world famous Willamette Valley in the rolling Dundee Hills. I just recently visited in the spring and absolutely fell in love with their 2006 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir.

The Vineyard is in immaculate condition and organic farming practices are rigidly enforced by the USDA which has certified the vineyard organic since 2005. Sokol Blosser’s vineyards also use solar power for 33% of its power needs.

The 2006 Pinot Noir is an excellent wine. Rich and textured, its nose is perfect Oregon Pinot Noir. It has earth and berry notes with just a hint of truffle. The wine was aged for 16 months in new and used French barrel. This wine should cellar quite nicely over the next five years.

My fiancé and I just had a bottle paired with beef tenderloin and it was magical. This wine has the body for soft tender beef and the more subtle forest floor flavours in the wine shone through when combined with the savoury flavours of the meat.

We carry the 2006 vintage at Firefly Fine Wines and Ales which is located in the Plaza 500 complex on Cambie and 12th right next door to Figmint Restaurant. We are open from 10 am to 11pm each and every day including holidays."

SKU# 608786

Firefly Fine Wines and Ales: 604-875-3325, www.fireflyfinewinesandales.com

Pentâge Winery 2008 Gewurztraminer

Wed, 2 Sep 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Wine writer Treve Ring assesses two Okanagan recent releases - one white, one red - from Pentâge Winery. Here is the white.

Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie’s boutique Pentâge Winery www.pentage.com rests on 35 acres along Penticton’s Skaha Lake. Production is limited to only 5000 cases a year, and their small-lot releases sell out quickly. Their newest vineyard, monikered ‘The Dirty Dozen’ was planted three years ago – and wine watchers (me!) are eagerly awaiting the first wines from the Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Petite Syrah, Zinfandel, Malbec, Mourvedre, Grenache and Tempranillo planted there.

Their current releases (9 whites and 7 reds annually) are from their first vineyard, planted in 1997. And what lovely wines are being handcrafted from these 10 year old vines. The perfumed aromas of the 2008 Gewurztraminer ($18) skyrocket out of the glass – lush lychee and grapefruit notes lead to a palate of ripe sweet apricot, citrus and mineral, a full, rounded mouthfeel and a lengthy finish. Though there is a lot of fruit sweetness here, the wine finishes dry and crisp – delish. ***

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Pentâge Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc

Tue, 1 Sep 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Wine writer Treve Ring assesses two Okanagan recent releases - one white, one red - from Pentâge Winery. Here is the red wine.

Their current Cabernet Franc is from 2006 ($28). This is one of my favourite Okanagan varietals when treated correctly – and this one certainly qualifies. Notes of wild cherries, ripe plum and spice are echoed on the palate, along with blackberry, cedar and vanillan notes. A full palate and long finish made this wine very enjoyable now, though I’d like to keep a bottle or two around to taste in a few years – there is enough textured structure here to keep evolving.

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Tribute, Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, BC VQA Okanagan, Method Classique

Fri, 28 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT

EAT editor Gary Hynes chooses this week's pick:

"In my humble opinion I don’t think we drink nearly enough bubbly in our fair province. Which is a pity since we’re so good at making the stuff. Champagne and sparkling wines are certainly an excellent choice for celebrations but they also go well with just about any food you care to serve at your table. Here’s my pitch to pop a cork of BC sparkling wine more often.

Sumac Ridge is the Summerland winery known for producing Steller’s Jay Brut, one of BC’s best sparkling wines—so they know a thing or two about bubbles. Tribute is their new non-vintage, 100% chardonnay bubbly created to commemorate and celebrate the Vancouver 2010 Olympics. Made in the traditional method with secondary fermentation in the bottle, the wine is easy-to-drink and focuses on clean, fresh lemony flavours and apple aromas. It possesses enough acidity to carry off a pairing with spot prawns, oysters or sole in a beurre blanc sauce. Let the games begin."

$30 in BC, available nationally in the fall
www.sumacridge.com

Tomas Cusine Vilosell 2006

Wed, 19 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Jill Krauss from the Strath shares this favourite with EAT:

"I am on a huge Spanish wine kick right now and this one is truly exceptional. The Vilosell is a blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah and it has a beautiful deep red color. The nose is full of black cherry, leather, and currents with fresh cherries, huckleberry, and chocolate on the palate. This is a rich and well structured wine that calls out for a nice grilled steak as we move closer to the end of summer. This guy retails for about $32.00."

2008 The Good Hope Winery, Chenin Blanc, South Africa

Fri, 31 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT

The women of housewine, Michaela and Michelle this summer respite:

"The relentless beating of the sun demands something crisp and refreshing in return. South Africa is our secret weapon to stay cool. Good Hope Winery’s Chenin Blanc is a perennial favourite and we’re especially excited about the 2008 vintage. Delectable flavours of citrus work like a charm with salads of all kind or drink as an aperitif by the pool."

$13.99 (BC CSPC # 792143)

Nichol Vineyard Estate Pinot Gris 2007

Mon, 27 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Russell Gelling manager at the 6 Mile Liquor Store shares this summer favourite with us:

"Salmon is not just a BC fish. This salmon coloured pinot gris has had just the right amount of skin contact to boost the body with added fruit flavours of peach, berry and stone fruits. Added mineral and citrus notes on the finish only make this wine even more complex. The winemaker also voided the harsh tannins that some roses show, leaving us with a clean fresh summer patio wine. Drink with your favourite BC coastal shellfish or citrus grilled salmon."

Now available in select retailers.

Meyer Family "Tribute" Chardonnay 2007

Thu, 16 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Greg Hays from Cafe Brio shares this pick:

Although this is only their second, the Meyers have crafted what must surely be one of the finest Chardonnays in Canada, and this is just their entry level Chard. They also make a "Micro Cuvee" that is mind boggling for $65. The vineyard has a northerly aspect which allows the grapes to mature gracefully rather than quickly. The long, slow ripening process results in grapes with a vast spectrum of flavours and an elegant minerality. More closely resembling Burgundy than Napa, it has an intense nose with hints of wood smoke, citrus, melon and peach. Quite dry on the palate with attractive weight in a medium to full-bodied style and marked by a streak of refreshing acidity. Beautifully balanced with a long, lovely finish. Outstanding B.C. Chardonnay. $30 from the winery,
3.1 acres producing only 330 cases.

Click here to visist the Meyer Family Vineyard online.

2006 Vinoterra Winery Kisi

Tue, 7 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Farmstead Wines creator Anthony Nicalo knows a thing or two about sniffing out a good wine. This week he shares a rare favourite with EAT readers:

"Kisi is an indigenous white-grape varietal grown predominantly in eastern Georgia. This wine is fermented in clay amphora and aged in oak. Slightly oxidized and a lovely amber colour with dried stonefruit and a minty-lemon balm thing going on. When I am not drinking a Farmstead wine, I look for really interesting, offbeat wines that are sometimes hit or miss, but always very intruiging and complex. This particular bottle is probably impossible to find in BC (look for it when you are in Seattle or shopping online for wine to send to your Pt. Roberts mailbox). To encourage agents to bring really unique, interesting wines to BC, the next time you find yourself in a great wine shop, ask for something unusual, esoteric or even weird. Neil, Matt and the folks at Kitsilano Wine Cellars are awesome at pointing at something delicious that even the most ardent wine-lovers may have overlooked."

Click here to read Julie Pegg's profile of Anthony Nicalo in our Food Heroes section.

Foxtrot Pinot Noir 2005

Thu, 2 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Natalie King, Director of Food & Beverage at The Sidney Pier Hotel and Spa sends us this recommendation:

"This is an absolutely superb example of BC Pinot Noir. It is a deeply coloured wine with an intense nose of cherry & spice. It is so silky smooth in the mouth, with satisfying and rich berry flavours and an oaky spiciness. So well balanced and nice long finish to savour. Although tough to find (I think it is only available in fine restaurants in BC), it is worth the hunt to enjoy it with a great meal. Our service team loves selling it; although it is a bit pricey, customers are always impressed and very satisfied with the recommendation."

St. Hubertus Frizzante Rose

Mon, 29 Jun 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Tristan Gill from Mattick's Farm VQA shares this current favourite with EAT readers:

"From Kelowna's St. Hubertus and Oak Bay Vineyards, this effervescent rose is truly Summer in a glass. Light berry notes combine with a subtle sparkle to create the ultimate patio wine. This versatile wine can be served chilled on its own or as an aperitif. Furthermore it will make the perfect compliment for grilled halibut or salmon and a mixed green salad. This unique wine is a fabulous value at under $16."

Averill Creek 2006 Pinot Noir

Wed, 17 Jun 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Rich Massey from the Galiano Inn sends us this pick:

“My choice for wine of the week hails from a small gravity flow winery in the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island.

As our restaurant is a showcase for local products from small farms it’s only natural to pair with wines made from fruit grown under the same climatic conditions. The Averill Creek 2006 Pinot Noir is a testament to the powerful illustrations of how local wine not only compliments but also enhances the taste of regional food.

I love this pinot as it shows much more than just typical cherry fruit; it speaks terroir straight from its delicious soul. A rich hue to the eyes complemented with an appealing velvety texture on the palate. Expect a food friendly seam of acidity with minerality and earthy aspects highlighted by generous amounts of leather and cedar embraced with soft smoke and hints of tobacco.

Pair with lamb or poultry but this vino truly shines with grilled salmon on a warm cedar plank.”

Wild Goose Pinot Gris

Sat, 13 Jun 2009 00:00:00 GMT

This pick comes from Colleen Kennaird at The Local Liquor Store on Salt Spring Island:

“This is a fabulous Pinot Gris, lightly golden in colour, has lively peach and pear flavours with a crisp finish. Always consistent, never disappointing from year to year. Great value for the superior wine in the bottle. I love it all year round. Great to always have a bottle in my fridge.” CSPC# 536227

2006 De Angelis, Rosso Piceno DOC, Italy

Wed, 3 Jun 2009 00:00:00 GMT

The barbeque friendly weather has carnivores everywhere rejoicing. What’s tastier than a succulent piece of grilled red meat? Devouring it al fresco with a delicious bottle of wine. You can count on Italy for interesting finds at a great price. From the region of Marche, De Angelis’ Rosso Piceno blends Montepulciano with Sangiovese. Slightly earthy yet packed with fruit, this juicy red will wash down whatever meat hits your grill.

$14.99 (BC CSPC #632141)

2008 Bird in Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir

Thu, 28 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Jill Krauss of The Strath Ale, Wine, and Spirit Merchants writes:

"My choice is the 2008 Bird in Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir from Adelaide Hills, Australia. These bubbles have a beautiful light pink colour with really pretty, fine beading. It is an amazing summer treat —perfect for brunch or hanging out on a patio in the sunshine. Crisp and fruity with delicious strawberry notes on both the nose and the palate, it's followed by a light floral quality and a clean, but long lasting, off-dry finish. This wine is well balanced and simple yet subtle, a refreshing approach for an Australian wine. I would rather not admit how much of this I have consumed!

Sku: 387951, $31.95

2006 Laura Hartwig Cabernet from Chile

Fri, 15 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Andrew Melville of Marquis Wine Cellars chooses this wine for EAT's readers:

“Perhaps the greatest deal on a Cabernet Sauvignon in the market is the Laura Hartwig. A fuller-bodied wine, the Laura Hartwig has distinct aromas of blackberry, cedar and a touch of menthol. The palette is decidedly juicy, with a great mouthfeel and chewy tannins. Approachable and highly delicious now, this wine would make a great started wine for a cellar as it will age gracefully for many years to come.”

CSPC# 185264, $18.90.

Espelt 2005 Vidivi (Garnacha Merlot)

Wed, 13 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Glenn Barlow of BC Liquor Guys recommends this wine from Spain, just in time for grilling season:

"Flavours of ripe cherry & berry, with black olive & tobacco leaf aromas that are super juicy on the palate. This one's a BBQ baby!" $20, available at most liquor stores.

Howling Bluff Sauvignon Blanc 08

Fri, 1 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Doug Russell from Smugglers Cove Liquor Store shares this current favourite: "The Howling Bluff Sauvignon Blanc 08 from Naramata Bench is a blend of saugvignon blanc and semillon with an earthy, mineral characteristic. Flavours of guava and passion fruit intermingled with citrus. It's enjoyable now, but will also reward a cellaring of five years." $18.99

Click here to for Howling Bluff's website.

The Joie 2008 Rose

Tue, 28 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Russell Gelling of 6 Mile Liquor Store shares this current favourite with EAT's online readers:

"This is the perfect summer wine. A rose with a difference, this vintage is much deeper in colour then most including previous vintages from joie and is a blend of four grape varieties. By blending Pinot Noir, Gamay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris they have given life to a mid-pallet rose with huge flavours of strawberry, rhubarb, cherry and spice and just a slight sweetness. This vintage is perfection and will be hard to repeat so buy if you see it."

Available in select liquor stores. CSPC +551469 Price $20.90-$25.00. For more information about Joie Farm wines, click here.

Image: Joie Farmer planting by hand, from the Joie Farm website.

Road 13 Vineyards Merlot

Tue, 21 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Beth Crawford from the Mattick's Farm VQA sends us this wine pick:

"Road 13 (formerly known as Golden Mile Cellars) is a "Prince" of a winery. The packaging looks completely different, but Michael Bartier and his Assistant Bailey are consistent in their production of kick-ass wines. This gold medal winning Merlot is full of dark fruit flavours augmented by just the right amount of oak. It is a wine that is robust and flavourful and has great length to the finish. I knew that I liked this wine, but forgot how much until I tried it again recently! You won't be disappointed."

Franz Hass ‘Kris’ Pinot Grigio delle Venezie IGT, Italy

Tue, 14 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris of housewine send this seasonal wine pick.

"The sun has been shining, the days are getting longer and the crocuses are in bloom. Spring has officially arrived so we can wear white shoes and drink white wine. We are definitely in our happy place, especially with a glass of Kris Pinot Grigio. Its fresh lush and juicy flavours of lime and lemon make it a perfect partner to salads or your favourite seafood pasta. It will cheer you up even if it is rainy outside."

$21.99 (BCLDB #151860)

Stay tuned to our bulletin board for housewine events and click here to learn more about their winetastings and other services.

Tinhorn Creek Merlot 05, BC

Mon, 6 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Larry Arnold, wine columnist for EAT shares this current favourite.

“There is a lot going on here, with layers of spicy oak, licorice, sage and ripe cherry fruit on the nose. Medium-bodied with supple fruit flavours, nicely balanced with a blush of soft tannins. Sounds pretty good, tastes even better!”

Widely available at VQA, private and government stores. $19.00-22.00
Check out their website at www.tinhorn.com

2006 Jackson Triggs Shiraz, private reserve

Tue, 31 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Mike Sly from Mattick's Farm VQA shares this current favourite with EAT: "The Jackson Triggs Shiraz private reserve won a gold medal at last year's Okanagan Wine Festival. Bright forward fruit with the best qualities an Aussie Chiraz and the Rhone. Nice savoury finish." $19.99. CSPC# 593103.

2006 Pedrosa Cepa Gavilán

Mon, 23 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Kevin McKinnon of Marquis Wine Cellars pulls one of the shelf for us: "It’s not often that I call a $30.00 wine a deal, but this wine reinforces what I love about the wine industry. Focussed and flavourful wines that over deliver on the nose and palate. This 100% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) spends 12 months in barrel. There is a dark garnet colour that precursors all that is to come. Waves of chocolate, vanilla, and black fruits aromas will tantalize your olfactory senses. Next you will be hit with silky smooth tannins, refined layers of black fruit, oak and minerality. Well balanced with the perfect amount of acidity and a long memorable finish. I can imagine this rich complex beauty going well with game dishes, tomato based dishes or even rack of lamb. Salud!" Available at Marquis Wine Cellars.

2008 Quails' Gate Chasselas/Pinot Blanc/Pinot Gris

Fri, 13 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Bruce Stuart, owner of The Wine Barrel at 644 Broughton St. looks ahead to warmer weather with this wine pick: "This off dry white blend has good crisp acidity that makes it an absolute classic summer wine. Pair it with food or just with a glass. Priced at $16.99 and available at all three of Greater Victoria's VQA BC Wine Stores."

Le Paradou Cotes Du Luberon Rouge 07

Wed, 11 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Gamey, earthy, plumy, however you call it, Le Paradou is just plain delicious. This juicy blend of Grenache and Syrah from the south of France, near Provence is estate grown from forty to sixty year old vines and never sees a lick of wood. Dense and full-bodied with sweet black fruit, spice and mineral flavours, a soft silky texture and a long sumptuous finish. Available at most private liquor stores for $16.00, #12724

Pinot Blanc, Leon Manbach, Alsace

Mon, 2 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Glenn Barlow from the BC Liquor Guys in Cook St. Village sends this pick to EAT readers: "We just got a nice little Pinot Blanc in from Leon Manbach, Alsace for $18. It's spicy and aromatic with a rich orange zest finish." Available at private BC wine and liquor stores CSPC# 335141.

2004 Three Drops Cabernets from Mt. Barker Western Australia

Mon, 23 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Marlisa Beadle of uber hip Stage wine bar in Fernwood suggests the 2004 Three Drops Cabernets from Mt. Barker region in Western Australia: "It is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cab Franc. It is hard to find a wine from Oz with any age to it like this one. It even has the telltale bricky colour indicating it is getting older and softer and screwcap as well. Soft Blackberry fruit from the Cab Sauv and slight herbacousness from the Cab Franc make this a very interesting standout wine. The cool harvest that year does not give any hint of Aussie fruit bomb or huge alcohol. It has a lot of finesse, think Bordeaux even."

Beau Vigne Juliet Napa Cab 2005

Wed, 11 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Janis Goard, wine director & sr. restaurants manager at
Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort & Spa shares this wine pick:

It was the Napa Cab that changed my mind about Napa Cabs. It has all the fruit and concentration you would expect, but is so beautifully balanced with lots of earthy tobacco leaf, ripe cherry, plum, cocoa, blackberry, and a host of other black fruits. It has a lovely gentle spice that lies on your palate to a lengthy finish. For such a young wine it was a bit of a surprise to find it so well integrated, and I think it will be enjoyed for years to come.

Winemaker: Dave Phinney (also makes the Prisoner and Mercury Head, trained at Opus One and Whitehall Lane, a definite rising star)
The 2005 Juliet is a blend of 96% cab, 2% petit verdot, 2% malbec
Vineyard: 1350 ft up on Atlas Peak above Stag's Leap in the Foss Valley.

2006 Tormaresca ‘Paiara’ Puglia IGT, Italy

Mon, 2 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Michaela and Michelle of house wine pick this week's wine, an earthy red from Southern Italy.

The southern Italian region of Puglia gives us one of the best value reds for money currently on Liquor Store shelves. Tormaresca’s Paiara enhances indigenous grape Negroamaro with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon for a very approachable glass (or two) of wine. Rustic and earthy with blackberry and exotic spice notes, it would pair marvellously with Lamb Tagine.

$11.99 (BC CSPC #378182)

Peller Estates 2007 Cabernet Franc, Family Series, VQA

Mon, 26 Jan 2009 00:00:00 GMT

From British Columbia’s Okanagan comes this easy-drinking, mid-week red. Priced at a manageable $14.95, it is a good introduction to the under-appreciated Cabernet Franc grape. In the Old World Cab Franc is used as part of the classic Bordeaux blend or Meritage as it is often referred to in the New World. It also appears as a single varietal in the Loire region of northern France, where it can become stunning Chinon in a warm year. But it is in the New World that Cab Franc really shows promise and a number of BC wineries have begun making wines from Can Franc that are well worth drinking.

Bright red in colour, this wine opens with expressive fresh cherry and raspberry and a backdrop of wood smoke and green pepper. The follow-up swallow might be straightforward but there’s enough juicy fruit, acid and a touch of tannin to make this a lovely food-friendly wine. Give it a bit of time after uncorking to let the flavours develop and try it with slow-braised beef chuck steaks (I did mine in a crock-pot) and you’ll have an affordable Wednesday dinner has never tasted so good.

Montes Winery

Fri, 9 Jan 2009 00:00:00 GMT

This week's wine pick comes from EAT editor Gary Hynes:

In the depths of a BC winter, nothing is more warming than a bold red from a hot climate. Aurelio Montes, co-founder and winemaker of the Montes Winery in Chile has been traveling around BC pouring samples of his award-winning wines for interested consumers.

At a price that barely nudges the twenty-dollar mark, Montes 2007 Cab-Carmenere (+603530) beat my January blues. Tasted at SIPS, a new wine bar in James Bay, it showed powerful, spicy flavours from the ripe Carmenère grape tempered with classic cigar box Bordeaux style and a long, full-bodied finish. Aurelio referred to this wine as the wine he most often drinks at home.

Other Montes wines worth a try is their signature 100% cabernet sauvignon Alpha (+32258) an intense, opulent and silky, well-balanced red that helped put Chile on the map. The bargain of the evening at $16.05 was the smooth 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (+464479) showing pretty flavours of cinnamon and mint in a medium-full body. These and other Montes wines are readily available at private wine stores around the province.

Photo: Montes winemaker Aurelio Montes

Double Hophead IPA from Tree Brewing

Mon, 15 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

For those who love a 'hoppy' beer, the new Double Hophead IPA from Tree Brewing has nailed a perfect balance of hop and malt with an 8% alcohol kick. A strong beer, it pairs best with hefty flavours. Take a look in our recipe section for a grilled rack of lamb recipe that suits the Double Hophead deliciously. Available in BC liquor stores for a limited time only.

2008 Cono Sur, Viognier, Chile

Thu, 11 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Michelle Bouffard, co-owner and certified sommelier at house wine in Vancouver makes this timely wine choice:

The market might be down but there is no reason why you should stop drinking wine. There are plenty of great values to be had. The Cono Sur Viognier is our latest find. Intrinsically Viognier with vibrant white peach and ginger aromas. Its juicy flavours will leave your palate refreshed and begging for another sip. A great wine to bring to parties during the holidays and a great match with Turkey. $10.99 (BC CSPC# 566836)

Read more of Michelle's great ideas on wine at www.housewine.ca

The Bear, Fairview Cellars, Okanagan, BC

Mon, 1 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Beth Crawford of the VQA Store at Mattick's Farm picks this week's wine:

This is a wonderful Bordeaux blend red from Bill Eggert's eight-acre vineyard in Oliver. Bill's techniques in the vineyard and in the cellar produce a mouth filling, fruitdriven, nicely balanced, full bodied red. Perfect for these dark evenings curled up by the fire and a great companion to rich beef dishes like tenderloin.

(Bill Eggert of Fairview Cellars in photo).

The Mandrarossa Fiano 2007 from Sicily

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Ceri Barlow from Zambri's picks this wine as her current favourite: The Mandrarossa Fiano 2007 from Sicily is a native varietal of Southern Italy that is low-yielding and early ripening, producing an un-oaked wine with loads of character and viscosity. Ripe, rich fruit and juicy acidity make this a delicious wine with antipasti, roasted white meats, rich seafood and creamy cheeses.

Domaine Delesvaux clos de la Guiberderie Coteaux du Layon, St. Aubin 2003

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Marcus Sawatsky of Niche shares his love of Domaine Delesvaux clos de la Guiberderie Coteaux du Layon, St. Aubin 2003:

This is authentic wine. No industrial yeasts are used, no enzymes are added to manicure the characters of the grape and the fruit is raised biodynamically to preserve the uniqueness of the terroir and the integrity of the land itself.

Wine academia aside, this little Chenin Blanc, is sweet without being cloying, rich without being pretentious and downright ethereal on the palate. A portion of the grapes in this cuvee have been affected by the natural botrytis that thrives in these Anjou vineyards and the remaining ones are allowed to dry in the sun to raisin them slightly. This is old school and low tech wine making at its best.

Domaine Phillipe Delesvaux creates several labels from their 35 acres of vines, with my current love Domaine Delesvaux clos de la Guiberderie Coteaux du Layon, St. Aubin 2003. The 2003 shows up as deep straw to golden in the glass, pushing that rich hue right to the rim of the glass. The medium-plus level of viscocity clings to the glass and shows its superior breeding in its long legs. The nose is bright, but slightly restrained, alluding to the fact that it may have some age on it, and the honeysuckle, field heather and Anjou pear sneak up on you as you swirl and sniff it.

In the mouth, I have enjoyed it’s angelic touch of stone fruit, marzipan, held up by a perfect nip of acidity. Balance is the name of the game here, with a reined-in level of alcohol rarely experienced in this new age of global wine. All initial reactions conclude in a unanimous decision. This wine builds with time on the palate and collects into a perfectly built argument. A classic finish built on vivid minerality and subtle botrytis flavours seems to go on just long enough to buy time until the next sip. Grab it while you can, for at only 30 dollars/ 500mls it can’t last for ever.

Rompicollo, Poggio al Tufo

Mon, 10 Nov 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Rob Scales, Sommelier at Il Terrazzo Ristorante in Victoria shares his wine pick of the week:

Poggio al Tufo owned by Tommasi is producing a tasty little super-Tuscan called Rompicollo. From the volcanic soils of the Tuscan coast, this Cabernet-Sangiovese blend offers black currant, plum and red tree fruit flavor profiles. This consumer friendly style caters to the new world palate with soft tannins, ripe fruit and cedary undertones. Rompicollo over-delivers at the $22 price point. Serve with full-bodied fare. Available at the BCLDB (+780585)

Gres Saint-Paul, Grange Philippe

Mon, 27 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Glenn Barlow of BC Liquor Guys is seeing red:

"This time of year I’m thinking red from Southern France. My pick is the Gres Saint-Paul, Grange Philippe “Costa Santene” Grenache Syrah blend with peppery, black cherry, licorice, and smoked meat aromas. Good structure and weight with long orange rind notes on the finish. $22."

Old Main Red by Kettle Valley, 2004 & 2005

Fri, 3 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Executive Chef Stephan Drolet of Wren Restaurant recommends Old Main Red by Kettle Valley, 2004 or 2005 for EAT readers: "This wine has the longest legs I`ve ever seen in such a young red! It`s got huge flavours and stands up to a wide array of flavours. Go grilled game meats, braises, spices, and, in some instances,
salmon, with a nice red wine jelly on it. The sweetness of the jelly is a nice counter-point to the wine, and lets the salmon shine.

As with all wines (and opinions on wine) it`s all so very subjective to the moment. A great ambiance, surrounded with friends and family, whether you have it with food or just on its own, and, well, this is tough to beat with other young wines here in BC."

For more of-the-moment wine recommendations, listen to the very savvy Michelle and Micheala of House Wine on CFUN radio.

2005 Cambon La Pelouse, Haut-Medoc

Fri, 26 Sep 2008 00:00:00 GMT

"A big-time sleeper of the vintage, the 2005 Cambon La Pelouse possesses a dark ruby-purple hue as well as an exotic, flamboyant, fruity bouquet of black cherries, wood smoke, tobacco, and spice. Lush, round, and opulent, it is ideal for drinking over the next five to six years." Robert Walker (leading U.S. wine critic).

Available at the Six Mile Liquor Store during their 2005 Bordeaux Pre-Release
(498 Island Hwy or call 250.391.4458 for details), $35.

Don Miguel Gascon Malbec 2006 from Argentina

Tue, 9 Sep 2008 00:00:00 GMT

There is nothing shy about this thick concentrated red from the sun-baked, windswept vineyards of the Andes. Blackish purple and loaded with ripe blackberry, blueberry and cherry flavours! The mouth-filling texture on the palate is lovely-deep round and rich, silky smooth but with plenty of grip through the finish. A big wine with flavours to match that will handle anything autumn blows your way! $16.00-18.00

Bodegas Ostatu Crianza 2006

Wed, 31 Dec 1969 00:00:00 GMT

Rioja Alavesa DOC, Spain

$24.99

Out of the dozens of wines I tasted at last weekend’s Cornucopia, this one stood out (the stars all over my tasting book are proof). Great value found here in this 100% Tempranillo, crafted from vines averaging 40 years in age. Aromas of spice, soft cinnamon, blackberry and a whiff of violets lead to smooth and lush dark berry, vanilla, a nd ripe plum, with a pleasing current of minerality throughout. Sophisticated and new-worldly styled Rioja. With roasted pork loin sided with cherry compote, this will be a knockout.

***

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!