Eat Magazine - Drink

Velenosi Offida DOC Villa Angela Pecorino 2008

Fri, 6 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

The Marches, Italy

$20-25

Tired of drinking the same old, same old? I recommend a little Pecorino in your glass. Before you head to the cheese counter, let me introduce you to a little known grape, brought back from the brink of extinction, and autochthonous (Winespeak translation: indigenous) to Italy’s Marche region. The origin of its cheesy name is still debated, but the most common theory is that the variety was a favorite nibble of the sheep that were driven through vineyard lands. Pecorino-making sheep are pretty smart, for this grape makes one unique wine.

There’s a lot of flavours going on here, and if you’re used to sipping more mainstream grapes and wines, it might take you by surprise. It’s a big wine world out there and life’s short, so fear not and drink up! Greenish yellow in hue, with aromas of acacia, almonds, spice and white pepper. On the palate, this full bodied, round white shows herbal, floral and citrus flavours, along with notes of ginger, bitter almonds, hazelnuts, honeyed tropical fruits and minerality. Fresh with heft, herbal with fragrant delicacy, expressive and gutsy – definitely not same old, same old. I paired with matcha dusted halibut and toasted almond green beans. Try too with hazelnuts and pecorino (the cheese, natch).

Ercole Velenosi is an award winning winery founded in 1984 by two young entrepreneurs, Angela and Ercole Velenosi. It is based in the Ascoli Piceno province of the Marches region

[rating]

By Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

August 5, 2010

Lang Vineyards Farm Reserve Riesling 2007

Mon, 2 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Naramata, Okanagan Valley

$20-25

Website

Happy BC Day!

Without a doubt, wine is a booming (and blooming) business in BC now. According to the BC Wine Institute (www.winebc.com), there are now 179 grape wine wineries across the province, and several licenses pending. For many British Columbians, wine is their business, their passion and their life. There are fewer places where the wine life is more evident than along the picturesque Naramata Bench in the Okanagan Valley. The excellent soil conditions and microclimate of the area yield many of this province’s top bottles. Lang Vineyards is nestled on the Bench, and was the first to receive a Farm Gate Winery license in 1990, paving the way for other small growers to open their own business. The winery has a loyal following of fans, drawn to their fruit forward, crisp, unoaked wines.

Their Reserve Riesling is one of BC’s sure bets – fresh and fruity, with bright, crisp green apple, orange and honey on the nose, and flavours of sweet white peach, lemon zest and mineral. This creamy Riesling is slightly off dry, with a juicy, spicy finish. This particular vintage is sold out at the winery, but still available in liquor stores.

Lang Vineyards is owned and operated by the successful Holman Lang group. Guenther Lang and his wife, Kristina, purchased the vineyard when they immigrated to Canada in 1980. After experimenting, planting and working the site for 25 years, it was sold to the Holmans. Keith and Lynn Holman had been orchardists for 30 years before they entered into the wine business with the opening of Spiller Estate fruit winery in 2003. That was followed the next year with the establishment of nearby Mistral Estate Winery, and the year after, Benchland Vineyards (renamed Stonehill Estate Winery). In Sept 2005 the Holmans added the long established and very popular Lang Vineyards to their holdings (hence the Holman Lang Wineries name). That was followed by the opening of Soaring Eagle Estate Winery in 2007 and Zero Balance Vineyards in 2008. Most recently K Mountain in Keremeos was added to the portfolio.

By drinking my bottle of Lang Vineyards Farm Reserve Riesling today, I’m celebrating our industry, toasting winemaking pioneers and supporting our vintners – all at once! Cheers to beautiful BC!

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By Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

August 2, 2010

Rogue Ales Chatoe Rogue First Growth Single Malt Ale

Fri, 30 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Newport, Oregon, USA

www.rogue.com

$8-9 for 650ml

Maybe it’s the industry, maybe it’s the atmosphere and maybe it’s alcohol, but the folks at Rogue Ales have the best sense of humour on the beer shelves. Married with amazing beer craftsmanship, marketing savvy and an inherent locavore culture, Rogue has achieved well-deserved success in the competitive microbrew field. They are the Phillips Beer of Oregon.

And like Phillips, Rogue is forever keeping us on our toes (tastebuds?), tempting us with an oft-changing lineup of seasonal, limited release brews. They’ve deemed their new line, Chatoe Rogue, as GYO Certified, a Rogue term for Grow Your Own. They’ve done just that, farming their own hops (at their Hopyard) and barley (via their Barley Bench). The Barley from their 235 acre farm was used in the creation of 2 types of malts – Dare and Risk, aptly named for their gutsy decision to plant in the unproven Tygh Valley Appellation. Though the Dare malt is featured in this Ale, the Risk malt has also proven to be a success, utilized in their Dirtoir Black Lager and in a new spirit called Oregon Single Malt Whiskey, currently aging (woot!). Rogue even named the latitude and longitude of the Hopyard and Barley Bench on their bottle. My wine geekness loves the Bordeaux reference – First Growth, Chatoe/Chateaux, Terroir-driven – cheers!

Local Malt + Hops + Water + Yeast = yum. First Growth Single Malt Ale pours a hazy golden amber, with a clean orange, malty nose and flavours of citrus, hoppy herbs, grass and a mild sweet floral kiss. Medium bodied, this ale finishes zesty and dry. We paired this with a blistered thin crust arugula and basil laden Margherita pizza – delish.

It’s so true people - life is too short to drink boring beer. In Victoria, head down to my local, Cook St. Village Liquor, to check out their outstanding microbrew selection. Time it for Wednesday nights and you can chat up award-winning beer writer, EAT columnist and brew expert Adem Tepedelen.

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By Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

July 30, 2010

Lustau Solera Reserva Dry Amontillado Los Arcos N/V

Tue, 27 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Jerez, Manzanilla, Spain

Website

$15-18 for 375ml

Once one of the most popular wines worldwide, Sherry’s had a bad rep over the past few decades. A Spanish sea-worth of cheap imposters and an aging Granny association turned it from hep drink of choice to joke of the week. Props to reputable producers getting quality product to the market – and for adventuresome drinkers giving it another try. But even those in the know might scratch their head about Amontillado. This lesser-seen variety of sherry is darker than Fino but lighter than Oloroso. This wine is partially aged under the flor yeast like the Finos, but finishes its aging without it. Amontillado takes its name from the Montilla region in Spain where it originated in the 18th Century. Emilio Lustau was founded in 1896, and is easily recognizable by the dark bottle with sloping shoulders - exclusive to the company.

Clear and bright amber in colour, this is a pungent waft of aged nuttiness, wood, and stony spice in the nose. The dry, round palate is layered with bitter walnuts & almonds, orange, iodine, molasses and spicy, salty figs. Dry and silky finish – with a positively rancio character that you’ll find addictive. This crisp Amontillado is fantástico chilled with nuts, cured meats and aged Manchego. Great value here.

*By EU law, true Sherries must only come from Jerez, the traditional home of Sherry production.

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By Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor editor

July 26, 2010

d’Arenberg The Stump Jump Red

Fri, 23 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

South Australia

www.darenberg.com

$15-18

I live to try new wines and I’m always on the hunt, but for special occasions (I’m looking at you wedding season) it’s good to rely on the tried and true. D’Arenberg is one of my favourite producers – not only from the Land of Oz, but worldwide. I’m always being asked for wedding and party wine recommendations. It’s a special case. Something that is widely appealing both for your hipster cousin and great aunt, something that is wallet-friendly for bulk buying, something that is in good supply and easy to find, and, not to be forgotten, something that is TASTY. Wedding planners, let me introduce you to Stump Jump. This old bush-vine GSM (Grenache, Syrah Mourvèdre) blend has a nose of ripe, dark berries and cracked black pepper, with supple cherry, herbal mulberry, earth and spice on the medium-bodied palate. Supple and soft finish, consistent, well-made, widely appealing and fantastic value. I do! Let’s hope the happy couples’ union has the staying power of d’Arenberg’s Osborn family. They’ve been tending vineyards since 1912.

*Bonus – Stump Jump White will make a perfect partner for the Red on the tables.

D’Arenberg wines have esoteric names – all referring to various stories from legend or reality. The Stump Jump was so called after the Aussie-invented plough that could ‘jump’ over stubborn mallee tree stumps and roots in the ground after clearing.

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by Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

July 22, 2010

Vista D’oro Winery D’oro 2007

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Fraser Valley, BC

www.vistadoro.com

$57-65 for 500ml

I was first introduced to the culinary wonders of Langley’s Vista D’oro Farms through their preserves. SO much more than plain old jam, seasonally changing flavours like Apricot Tarragon & Riesling, Green Walnut & Grappa, Turkish Fig & Walnut, and Green Tomato & Garam Masala have graced my kitchen with their preserve presence, and elevated my ordinary dining experience into the extra.

A few years ago, husband-wife team Patrick and Lee Murphy added winemaking to their culinary tourism operation. Their flagship product is simply D’oro (Italian for gold). Following a centuries old recipe from Northern France, they’ve used walnuts from their magnificent century-old walnut trees for an exceptional fortified walnut wine. This port-style stunner is a blend of Marechal Foch from the North Okanagan, Merlot and Cabernet Franc from the Central Okanagan, green walnuts from their Fraser Valley property (picked on Bastille Day!), and brandy from Okanagan Spirits, in Vernon. D’oro is then aged 13 months in French and American oak. Wow – what an effort and what a result! A sultry nose of age – with raisin sweetness, earthy walnuts, wood and plush porty sweetness. Clarity and richness, with a finish that lingers on and on… Authentic, artisanal, awesome.

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by Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

July 19, 2010

Crouching Tiger

Sat, 17 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Lure at Delta Ocean Pointe Resort & Spa

$6.75

www.lurevictoria.com

Summertime, and the sea breezes are calling. When the mercury rises, I seek out an ocean breeze and a cool drink. And I’ve just found a new hot weather saviour – the bar at Lure.

I think it’s fair to say that one of the better views of downtown’s Inner Harbour is from your perch at Lure, the stylish seafood-centric restaurant at the Ocean Pointe Resort. Floor to ceiling windows provide spectacular water views, and just seeing all that cool Pacific lowers the temperature a few Celsius. I escaped into Lure last week, when the thermometer hit 30, in search of relief. And I found it, deliciously, courtesy of senior bartender Dirk VanderWal.

Bartending has become an art form, and it quickly became obvious that Dirk, a longtime OPR employee, has a knack for the arts. A background in graphic design, music and photography lends itself well to creating winning cocktails it seems – both to the eye and palate. Take that talent, marry with a keen interest in classic craft cocktails, and you’ve the makings for success - evident in my chosen Crouching Tiger. Fresh cool cucumber, aromatic gin and bright lime are zinged with the spice of the Ginger of the Indies and subtle kick of the housemade ginger syrup. It was instant refreshment, plus depth of flavour = artistic vision achieved. And my cool down mission accomplished as well. It would be way too easy to sit at the marble bar and wait out any heat wave.

If you don’t catch this Crouching Tiger on your drink list, fret not. Dirk, Adam and the team put out a weekly fresh sheet for the bar, which is where I came across this cocktail. Tiger is in rotation, so keep an eye out for this kitty this summer.

CROUCHING TIGER – courtesy of Dirk VanderWal.

Photos courtesy of Dirk VanderWal as well (see – I told you he was artistic!)

Ingredients:

3/4 oz Gin (I enjoy the perfume of Victoria Gin with the spice of ginger here, but most good brands should do)

3/4 oz Giffard Ginger of the Indies liqueur

1 oz Ginger Syrup (see below)

Lime

Fresh long English cucumber

Preparation:

1. Cut a 3/4" thick slice of cucumber, quarter it, and add it to an empty cocktail shaker. Muddle until well broken down, then squeeze in the juice of half a lime and add the rind.

2. Pour in the gin, ginger liqueur, and ginger syrup. Fill the shaker to the top with ice and shake vigorously until well chilled.

3. Strain into an old fashioned glass filled with ice. Garnish with additional cucumber slices and a lime twist.

GINGER SYRUP: Prepare ginger syrup by combining 2 tbsp grated ginger with 1 cup each of sugar and water in a small saucepan. Stir the mixture together over medium heat until it comes to a light boil and all the sugar is dissolved. Allow to cool to room temperature for one hour. Strain through cheesecloth or a fine mesh strainer into an airtight container and keep refrigerated for up to one week.

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-Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

July 16, 2010

Castel del Remei Gotim Bru 2006

Mon, 12 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Costers del Segre, Spain

$24-30

It was the GOAL!! heard around the world. Even the vuvuzelas didn’t drown out the cheers of the Spanish fans, crowded around televisions around the world. I prepared in advance, with this bottle of Gotim Bru on hand. Once the game was won, the cork was popped and this big red – like millions of footie fans – was able to breathe.

Gotim Bru is a modern styled blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha and Merlot, aged for 10 months in French and American oak. The hue is dark garnet with an orange glint, and first sniff shows wood, book, spice and red currants. On the palate, this big red has structured yet soft tannins, laced with layers of ripe red currants, sweet cherries, jammy bright red fruit, tobacco, copper and spice. A wee nip of heat hints to the 14% alcohol. Stylish showy flowers with rustic, grounded roots. Tomato braised pork shank or grilled leg of lamb would make a happy partner.

Costers del Segre is a Spanish Denominación de Origen (DO) in the Catalonia region. Tempranillo is known locally here as Ull de Llebre.

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—by Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

July 11, 2010

Lanson Black Label Brut NV

Thu, 8 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Champagne, France

$60-70

www.lanson.com

www.letour.fr

The Tour de France rolled into Reims today. Reims is known as the city of Champagne, being home to many top Champagne houses. Historically, it is also the site of the coronation of French kings – a toast-worthy celebration, to be sure.

The only royalty I’m toasting this week however, is biking royalty. The men who ride the incredible Tour de France have had a rough week. Broken bones, road rash, and don’t even get me started on the cobbles. The riders have an epic 3,642km journey over the coming weeks – one certainly worthy of a toast.

With this price for quality Champagne, you can almost afford to toast liberally and often! Lanson Black Label has long been a darling of our market. This is because now, as it did when founded 1760, the company focuses on exporting champagne to foreign channels. In fact, it is known to be a favourite of Queen Elizabeth and it’s the house bubble at Wimbledon – so it’s certainly good enough for you! Now inching its way up to $60, it still represents amazing value. A fresh nose of green apple, pear, toast and citrus leads to a lighter bodied champers with almond, apple, mineral and mild yeasty flavours. Nice lingering, elegant, balanced finish. Great in this heat, while you watch cyclists ride for 5 hours across mountains in the blazing French sun. Salut et Bonne Chance!

While cycling isn’t a big sport in Canada, we have a contender in Victoria-born Ryder Hesjedal. This young cyclist rides for the Garmin-Transitions team, has been having an excellent season and stellar first week of the tour. Follow Ryder and toast him on twitter @ryder_hesjedal.

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- Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

July 7, 2010

Calliope Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Tue, 6 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Okanagan Valley $17-22

Website (coming soon)

Okanagan wine watchers will recognize the name Calliope – wines under that name have been made in years past. This tiny Okanagan hummingbird has now been reborn, this time in wines passed through the skilled hands of the Wyse Family, of Burrowing Owl. Calliope will serve as a creative side project for the winemakers at Burrowing Owl, allowing them to step outside of the established house boundaries of the Burrowing Owl style. This boutique brand will be a hot ticket, and a highly coveted one since the first vintage is a relatively small one.

There are not very many Sauvignon Blanc coming out of the Okanagan today, lost in the sweeping tide of Chardonnay and Pinot Gris flowing from the Valley. Calliope sourced the grapes for this wine from the Similkameen Valley, fermented it in barrel and let it marry with the lees for 3 months before bottling. What? Oak? For lean, tangy and sprightly Sauv Blanc? Yup. The result yields a nose of bright lemon and herbal gooseberry, and a creamy palate of lemon, mineral, medicinal herb, lees and vanilla. The finish is smooth and long. Don’t think about this being a typical zippy Sauv Blanc – it will just mess with your mind. Instead, just sip and enjoy this richer Sauv Blanc – akin to California’s Fume Blanc. The heft will make it partner with savoury dishes with a little weight. Try cornmeal crusted prawns, roasted fennel or spit roasted herbed turkey.

The Sauvignon Blanc was released today in select private stores. Subsequent vintages are expected to be in good supply and will also include reds.

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—by Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

July 5, 2010

Lighthouse Brewing Company Fisgard 150 Bavarian Lager

Thu, 1 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

$12 - $16 for 6 x 355 ml bottles (5% alcohol)

Website

O CANADA!

Today is when Canucks can unabashedly and wholeheartedly celebrate symbolic Canadiana. Hockey, toques, beavers, maple leaves, moose – and here on the coast – lighthouses. Fisgard 150 was brewed to commemorate the 150th Anniversary of Fisgard Lighthouse, Western Canada’s oldest. This newest release from Victoria’s Lighthouse Brewing Company is in line with owner Paul Hoyne’s quest for quality. A traditionally-styled Bavarian Lager, Fisgard is a light golden straw, with a lovely hoppy, floral, grapefruit aroma – very aromatic, even when chilled right down. The mouthfeel is medium bodied, but still crisp and refreshing, a great zip on the tongue with cracked wheat, citrus and subtle sweet malt. Smooth and clean – could easily take on slightly weightier dishes while still refreshing in the summer heat. Try halibut burger with grilled potatoes and salted corn on the cob.

The beer is in check with Hoyne’s environmental dedication as well. Lightweight, stubby necked glass bottles are a welcome sight, but not at all surprising for a two Eco-Star, zero-emissions facility. Even the spent grains are sent daily to local organic farmers to use for feeding cattle, chickens and pigs (lucky!).

Local Canadian companies like this are another reason to celebrate Canada Day today – cheers!

* Don’t recognize this brew? Lighthouse Brewing Company is in the process of re-branding all of their products with this sleek new logo.

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—by Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

July 1, 2010

Laughing Stock Vineyards Viognier 2009

Tue, 29 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley $26-30

Website

David and Cynthia Enns have always subscribed to “go big or go home”. From their striking labels to their bold marketing campaigns to their wines’ huge flavours – these people pack a lot into one bottle. And their latest move in the face of this week’s HST rollout can only be called bold. Or maybe brilliant.

As of Canada Day - aka HST Day - Laughing Stock’s wines will actually be reduced in price. The winery will be passing along the 3% tax savings from the transition to HST to wine buyers on their website and in their tasting room. The current tax rate for wine in BC is 15% (5% GST and 10% PST liquor tax). Therefore, when the 12% HST kicks in, the taxation of wine will actually decrease. Unlike the BCLDB, who have decided to collect and pocket the additional 3%, Laughing Stock will pass the savings on to their customers. A small amount – sure. A huge gesture – absolutely. And one that will keep them in the hearts of their fans (plus win them numerous new ones). As winemaker David Enns says, “We just feel that this is the right thing to do. We eat it, you drink it.”

Looking for a reason to blow your newfound windfall? Their inaugural Viognier will provide one. A big blast of aromatic and lush fruit jump from the glass – peach, mango, orange and floral notes (if LFNG is looking for a side business, I recommend a perfumery arm). A filling mouthfeel follows of ripe peach, honeyed pineapple, orange blossom, flowers and buttery vanilla. The oak treatment might be a little – bold – for some Viognier fans. But it’s totally in sync with this winery, and its devotees wouldn’t have it any other way. Pair with a patio. Only 150 cases were made, so get thee to Naramata and try it for yourself. After July 1 though – save that 3%.

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—by Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

June 28, 2010

Three Thieves The Show Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Central and North Coast AVA’s, California, United States

$19-23

Website

Summertime, and the livin is easy…

This wine is pretty showy – and not just because of the eye grabbing label. A big, juicy, balanced Cali Cab blend for under $20? A regular summer BBQ pick in my house. Jammy blackberries, dried blueberries, black cherries and spice throughout, with a nice mocha and vanilla lift to the finish. Some air time will increase the lushness. If you can’t find this particular label in your local liquor store, fret not – they created three special commemorative labels for this Show – all the same wine. Perfectly apt for grilled meats – especially with leg of lamb. Try with a thyme and wild blueberry glaze.

Though the only grape varietal you’ll see on the label is Cabernet Sauvignon, American wine law allows a wine to be labeled as a varietal if it has 75% or more of that variety. The Show also has a backbone of Petit Sirah, with splashes of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot blended in.

The story of the Three Theives began in 2001, when the trio—a.k.a Charles Bieler, Joel Gott, and Roger Scommegna—hit upon a brilliant thought. Realizing that there was an enormous excess of great wine being produced by premium wineries, and a flourishing market for quality wine at the $10 price point, they began buying wine from these wineries and creating their own blends, using their own winemaking skills to improve upon the original composition. The three partners got a reputation for ‘robbing’ vineyards blind of high-end varietals, at prices described as a ‘steal,’ and the name “Three Thieves” stuck.

[rating]

—by Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

June 25, 2010

Sogrape Vinhos de Portugal Gazela Vinho Verde

Tue, 22 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Vinhos Verde, Northern Portugal

$10-13

www.sograpevinhos.eu/en

Yesterday, at the World Cup, Portugal crushed North Korea 7-0 in the biggest rout of the tournament.

Today, in the Wine Cup, Portugal crushes all competitors in the white wine shootout.

I know, I know – it’s what on the inside that counts (thanks mom). But this stunning bottle is temptation enough to buy! Luckily, the juice inside is delightfully drinkable too. Refreshing and zesty, with a slight touch of lively spritz on the palate, this light bodied blend has crisp citrus, mineral, green apple and a touch of sweet gooseberry and mild melon. A low alcohol content (9 percent) ups the quaffing quotient. Buy by the case, drink while fresh!

Pair with a garden party - these colourful bottles can be prominently displayed as the artful centrepiece. Complement this lemony white with fresh, local shellfish or a citrus dressed salad.

Vinho Verde [VEE-nyoh VEHR-deh] translates as “green wine”, referring not to the colour, but to the fresh youthfulness. Gazela is a blend of traditional Vinho Verde wine varietals - Loureiro, Pedernã, Trajadura and Azal.

[rating]

—Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

June 22, 2010

Elephant Island Orchard Wines Pink Elephant 2008

Sun, 20 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

$25-35

Naramata, Okanagan Valley

www.elephantislandwine.com

A double header Drink? Sure! It’s Father’s Day, the sun is shining (sorry Okanagan), and these two celebratory wines are both delicious. And besides, do you really need a reason to drink pink bubble or luscious port? I didn’t think so.

The more vintages I drink of Elephant Island, the more I am convinced that Miranda and Del Halladay’s orchard on Naramata Bench is one of BC’s top gems. That’s right – orchard. Elephant Island produces wine from premium, lovingly tended, heritage fruit – and it shows. Their credo: exceptional fruit – nothing else, stainless steel aging, and defining a style that suits the fruit. Cheers! Consulting winemaker Christine Leroux knows a lot about exceptional fruit, plus how to treat it. She trained at the L'Institut D'Oenologie de Bordeaux, and has work experience with Chateau Petrus, Chateau Margaux and Cassegrain. Just imagine that pedigree and expertise trained towards orchard fruit, rather than grapes.

A true family affair, I thought Elephant Island would make a great Father’s Day Drink. It’s not easy to choose, however, so I’m offering up two for dear old dad (he’s worth it).

Start off with a toast with Pink Elephant. Fun-loving sibling of Elephant Island’s cult and coveted The Little King, this is Okanagan Granny Smith cuvee, with some of EI’s sweet Cassis added in. Kir Royale anyone?? Bright salmon hue, bursting with bubbly flavours of apple, citrus, sweet cherry and red currant, with delicate floral notes and a crisp and dry cassis-scented finish. Bright, fresh and fun, a wonderful wine to start off the festivities.

After dinner, when the cheese plate makes its appearance, bring out a bottle of this unique port-style wine. Stellaport is made from Stella cherries, picked extra-ripe and ultra sweet. Like Sherry, Stellaport is crafted in the traditional Solera method, a fractional blending process for aging wine. The finished product is a mixture of ages, with the average age gradually increasing as the process continues over the years. The 2009 release contains wine from every vintage reaching back to 2001, all of which have been resting and gaining complexity in French oak. A rich cassis and cocoa nose is followed by a velvet palate of jammy dark cherry, spice and dark chocolate. The finish goes on and on and on – very impressive.

Dad deserves a double Drink. Happy Father’s Day!

[rating]

—By Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

June 19, 2010

Elephant Island Orchard Wines Stellaport NV

Sun, 20 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

$30-40 (375ml)

Naramata, Okanagan Valley

www.elephantislandwine.com

The more vintages I drink of Elephant Island, the more I am convinced that Miranda and Del Halladay’s orchard on Naramata Bench is one of BC’s top gems. That’s right – orchard. Elephant Island produces wine from premium, lovingly tended, heritage fruit – and it shows. Their credo: exceptional fruit – nothing else, stainless steel aging, and defining a style that suits the fruit. Cheers! Consulting winemaker Christine Leroux knows a lot about exceptional fruit, plus how to treat it. She trained at the L'Institut D'Oenologie de Bordeaux, and has work experience with Chateau Petrus, Chateau Margaux and Cassegrain. Just imagine that pedigree and expertise trained towards orchard fruit, rather than grapes.

A true family affair, I thought Elephant Island would make a great Father’s Day Drink. It’s not easy to choose, however, so I’m offering up two for dear old dad (he’s worth it).

Start off with a toast with Pink Elephant. Fun-loving sibling of Elephant Island’s cult and coveted The Little King, this is Okanagan Granny Smith cuvee, with some of EI’s sweet Cassis added in. Kir Royale anyone?? Bright salmon hue, bursting with bubbly flavours of apple, citrus, sweet cherry and red currant, with delicate floral notes and a crisp and dry cassis-scented finish. Bright, fresh and fun, a wonderful wine to start off the festivities.

After dinner, when the cheese plate makes its appearance, bring out a bottle of this unique port-style wine. Stellaport is made from Stella cherries, picked extra-ripe and ultra sweet. Like Sherry, Stellaport is crafted in the traditional Solera method, a fractional blending process for aging wine. The finished product is a mixture of ages, with the average age gradually increasing as the process continues over the years. The 2009 release contains wine from every vintage reaching back to 2001, all of which have been resting and gaining complexity in French oak. A rich cassis and cocoa nose is followed by a velvet palate of jammy dark cherry, spice and dark chocolate. The finish goes on and on and on – very impressive.

Dad deserves a double Drink. Happy Father’s Day!

[rating]

—By Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

June 19, 2010

Bodegas y Viñedos Santa Emiliana Eco Balance Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Fri, 18 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Maipo Valley, Chile

$12-$15

www.emiliana.cl

So here I was, sitting down, ready to write another South African wine review in honour of the World Cup (3rd SA wine this week). And then I heard that Chile earned their first World Cup victory in 48 years, bringing great joy and pride to Chileans everywhere. The underdog always gets my vote, so instead of reaching for a SA wine, I picked up this brand new Chilean release.

In 1998, Bodegas y Viñedos Santa Emiliana, one of the best-known major Chilean wineries, contributed premium vineyards from the Casablanca, Maipo and Colchagua Valleys to an organic farming effort. From this was born Emiliana Orgánico, a project that is unique in Chile and a pioneer in Latin America. Viñedos Emiliana also produces premium ranges Emiliana Gê and Coyam, commanding scores in the 90’s and prices quadrupling this bottle.

Their brand new range, Eco Balance, was farmed sustainably, with no pesticides or herbicides, packaged with eco-glass, labeled with ecologic paper and shipped in boxes of recycled material. I’m getting where the name came from. Eco Balance wines were “created for relaxed, everyday enjoyment.” I translate that into pleasant, simple, widely appealing and uncomplicated – which is exactly what this is. Plum, licorice and cherry popsicle on the nose lead to a medium body sip with fresh red fruit flavours, spice and soft tannins. This Cab Sauv (with 15% Syrah) goes down easy – bring this Chilean for your red wine hating friend and you’ll score like Jean Beausejour.

If you need a vuvuzela break and would like to find out more about organic and biodynamic winemaking, play at the interactive vineyard on Emiliana’s website

[rating]

—Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

June 17, 2010

The Winery of Good Hope Chenin Blanc 2008

Tue, 15 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

$14-17

www.thewineryofgoodhope.com

It’s not just World Cup. It seems it might actually be – summer! Just like world cup, summer’s arrival has been anxiously awaited. So move the TV to the patio, because this South African white pairs well with sunshine.

Let me start off by saying - this Chenin Blanc (a.k.a Steen in S. Afr.) is an everyday steal, even on our BC market. Old bush vines, mineral rich granite slopes, ocean cooled, hand-picked, free-run juice, stainless steel ferment, 6 months en sur lie… Ok, ok – enough geeking out – how does it taste? Fresh, bright and crisp, with honeysuckle, juicy pear, grapefruit sorbet, and crystalline minerality throughout. Bright acid and a creamy, leesy mouthfeel take you through to a dry citrus finish. All this – for $14?! GOAL!

This is the entry level range for The Winery of Good Hope – an impressive thought. If they take this much care with step one, it makes you want to keep climbing that staircase.

[rating]

—Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

June 14, 2010

Fairview Wines Goats do Roam Red 2008

Fri, 11 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Coastal Regions, South Africa

$15-19

fairview.co.za

wosa.co.za

World Cup! In honour of this grand football zenith, drink will be reviewing a number of South African products over the next couple of weeks. You may know all your choice teams and picked the players for your pool, but have you given much thought to the massive South Africa wine industry? According to the Wines of South Africa (WOSA) website, the country currently has 101 958 hectares (2007) under vines for wine production.  The 2008 harvest is estimated at 787.2 million litres, 56.8 million litres up from the 2007 figure of 730.4 million litres.   South Africa produces 2.9% of the world's wine and ranks as number nine in overall volume production (2005). While admittedly few of those bottles show up in our stores (and even fewer premium bottlings), there are a few you should become friendly with.

Like Goats! This tongue-in-cheeky blend is the best selling South African red in North America. A riff on France’s Cotes du Rhone blends, this mélange is mainly Shiraz, with Cinsaut, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Carignan - whew! The result? No gamy goat here – just meaty, ripe black cherry and dusty herbal flavours with an earthy anise finish. This medium-bodied mix will suit a variety of meat and game dishes – try a grilled pork or veal chop with lentils, or, if you dare find it, goat stew.

[rating]

By Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

June 11, 2010

Nichol Vineyards Syrah 2006

Thu, 10 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Naramata Bench, Okanagan

$30-36

www.nicholvineyard.com

That’s not a typo above on the vintage, nor have I pulled something from my cellar for today’s drink. While you’ll be seeing 07s and 08s of most local reds currently on the shelves, Nichol owner/operator Ross Hackworth believes in giving his wines an extra year to age, allowing the flavours to mature and the complexities to deepen. Smart man. One sip of this Syrah – a variety Nichol first planted in the Okanagan – and it’s obvious the wait was time well spent.

Having the oldest Syrah vines in Canada is one thing. Knowing how to treat them is entirely another. And Hackworth, harkening back to Syrah’s Rhone roots, lets the wine lead the way. At first whiff, deep dark fruit and dusty clay earth. The first sip is more of the same – bold, ripe cherry, juicy blackcurrant and spicy raspberry, savoury meat and ample black pepper. Unfiltered, deep and layered, smooth yet structured – with a lengthy herbal finish. Ready to drink now – but I’ll be keeping an extra bottle in my cellar.

Enjoy with roasted lamb or beef, or like me, with aged hard cheeses and sea salted dark chocolate.

[rating]

—Treve Ring – Online DRINK Editor

06/10/20

Island Nation

Sun, 6 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

“I can’t believe what you guys are doing up here!”

It was pretty obvious that Jim Romdall was impressed. Romdall, mixologist of Seattle’s cocktail hotspot, Vessel, was recounting his past few days in Victoria. Visits with bartenders, seminars at Sea Cider and Canoe – plus an afternoon grazing and gulping at ICC’s Defending our Backyard – had left an indelible impression on the friendly and talented young man.

“Sure, there are people doing local in Seattle, but it’s nowhere near the extent of what you guys are doing up here.” Jim enthused. And coming from this man that is all about the details – that means a lot. He has gained a local and loyal following by “caring about cocktails every step of the way”, from the freshest ingredients to artisan spirits to the crafting of the ice. Vessel is known for both their respect to the classics, and their new wave creations. Jim likens a well made cocktail to well made wine – it keeps evolving and changing in the glass over time. Just consider that the next time you’re trying to keep up at the bar. Slow down. Sip. Savor.

Jim and his crew at Vessel were key players in Seattle’s cocktail renaissance, and are at the top of their game today. Vessel opened 3.5 years ago – about 18 months before the drink scene exploded in the Emerald City. Now there are more than 2 dozen dedicated professional mix-masters in the city, coming together to form the Washington Bartenders Guild 1.5 years ago. When asked about the difference between cocktail culture between Seattle and Victoria, he doesn’t hesitate – “size.” Seattle is much bigger, and more brains and butts at the bar has given them a good jumpstart on us. And then, just as quickly he says “price.” BC’s liquor pricing is unbelievable to him, and the cost we have to pay for base product is “a huge detriment to our cocktail culture. How can you create a quality beverage in a bar for under $20? It just doesn’t make sense, business-wise.” I asked him about his favourite local products so far – and after an afternoon at the “very inspiring” Island Chef’s Collaborative event, he had too many to recount. Some top picks – Sea Cider, Phillip’s Beer and Victoria Gin – plus some up-and-comers to the Victoria spirits scene too new to mention here (hint hint). He used some local faves in his creation of a cocktail to commemorate his Victoria visit – the first, I predict, of many.

Island Nation

Original cocktail by Jim Romdall, inspired by his trip to Victoria and our self-sufficient and sustaining food culture

Victoria Oaken Gin – 1.5 oz

Sea Cider Pomona - ¾ oz

Victoria Spirits Twisted & Bitter - bar spoon

Simply Syrup – bar spoon

Orange slice (Jim’s came from N. Saanich’s Fruit Trees & More)

Stir together over ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Flame the orange zest and rub rim. Serve.

*Treve’s note. The show – flash flame of alcohol influenced orange peel – was as impressive as the aroma of this drink. Burnished, heady and robust citrus nose, with velvet smooth flavours of sweet apple, herbs, floral and citrus.

[rating]

— Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

June 6, 2010

Paul Zinck Portrait Pinot Gris 2007

Fri, 4 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Alsace, France

$19-24

Website

I went to this week’s international release trade tasting expecting to sample new beer (check), BBQ wines (check) and patio sippers (check). Fun, flighty, summery. But then I came across this little smoky surprise – a sustainably farmed Pinot Gris from respected Alsatian father-son duo Zinck. Paul (Sr. Zinck) is deeply rooted in tradition and history: hand-harvesting, vineyard layout. Phillippe (Jr. Zinck) has introduced modern technology – stelvin lux enclosures, stainless steel fermentation. The duo works. This wine is in their entry level tier – wine focused on showcasing the varietal characteristic typical of the area. If you think you know Pinot Gris, try this.

Bright citrus cuts through the powerfully smoky nose, and carries through to the palate along with a burst of herbaceous lemon and stone fruit. The finish is long, spicy and dry. Big and fat married with lean, crisp mineral – the contrast makes for a very interesting glass. Perhaps not quite right for that summer BBQ – but if you need a talker for that pork or veal chop, seek this one out.

[rating]

—By Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

June 3, 2010

Mount Gay Rum Eclipse

Tue, 1 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Barbados

$25-30

www.mountgayrum.com

When I was in Vegas a couple of weeks ago, one of the 20 or so eateries in the casino resort I was staying at was rumjungle. Much like everything else in Vegas, this promised to be The Biggest, The Best, The Hottest, The “fill in the blank here” EVER. In fact, when it comes to rum, rumjungle isn’t lying. A 20,000 square-foot spectacle for the senses, this Latin/Caribbean restaurant boasts the world’s most extensive rum selection – with over 200 in stock. Of course, these are housed in an expansive rum bar (144 feet long and 19 feet high). Though the lineup, thumping bass, VIP bottle service starting at ‘just $125’ and the featured Pain Killer cocktail prompted us to seek quieter barstools, the thought of all that rum has stuck in my mind.

I’ll be honest – I don’t usually give too much thought to rum. Sure, I like a good Dark n’ Stormy, but I haven’t had the chance to give this Caribbean spirit its due. Rum is made from sugarcane byproducts such as molasses and sugarcane juice by a process of fermentation and distillation. The distillate, a clear liquid, is then usually aged in oak and other barrels. Style differentiation comes through distillation method, barrel aging and blending. The grades used to describe rum depend on where it was produced. These vary from location to locations, but generally follows as thus:

Light Rums, aka silver rums and white rums. In general, has very little flavour aside from a general sweetness, and serves accordingly as a base for cocktails.

Gold Rums, aka amber rums. Medium-bodied and generally aged, these gain their dark colour from aging in wooden barrels (usually the charred white oak barrels that are the byproduct of Bourbon Whiskey). They have more flavour, and are stronger tasting than Silver Rum, and can be considered a midway-point between Silver/Light Rum and the darker varieties.

Spiced Rum These rums obtain their flavour through addition of spices and, sometimes, caramel. Most are darker in colour, and based on gold rums.

Dark Rum aka black rum. Generally aged longer, in heavily charred barrels. Dark rum has a much stronger flavour than either light or gold rum, and hints of spices can be detected, along with a strong molasses or caramel overtone.

Premium Rum As with other sipping spirits, a market exists for premium and super-premium boutique-branded rums. They have more character and flavour than their "mixing" counterparts, and are generally consumed without the addition of other ingredients.

What better place to start my rum discovery than with Mount Gay Rum– said to be (Vegas-esque) the world’s first and oldest distillery – founded in 1703. Mount Gay calls itself “The rum that invented rum”. Catchy. Eclipse is a gold rum – a blend of single and double distilled rums, and shines a bright true-to-its-name gold in the glass. Rich molasses and sweet floral aromas saunter out of the glass, along with light flavours of caramel, banana, spice, pepper, almond and vanilla. Honey smooth and lengthy, though light.

If you want to try a super premium Mount Gay rum, look for their 1703 Old Cask Selection ($125-150), blended with the best bourbon-cask aged rums from the past 10-30 years.

[rating]

—By Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

May 31, 2010

Masi Modello Della Venezie Bianco 2009

Fri, 28 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Veneto, Italy

$13-16

www.masi.it

You’ve heard of the Tour de France, non? Of course, how could you not with Planet Armstrong and Livestrong and all of the YELLOW everywhere each July. But how many follow the Giro d'Italia (Tour of Italy)? One of cycling’s Grand Tours, this amazing 21 day epic race takes place every May, and this year, the 93rd edition, the race has taken 22 teams of riders 3400 kilometres from the top of Italy almost down to the boot, and back up again. I assume – like me – you’ve been following it online (www.cyclingfans.com) and cheering on the pink jersey (Italy’s version of yellow). So of course, you know that this amazing race ends this Sunday in Verona.

That deserves a toast.

I get tired just thinking about the race, so I need something – thirst quenching. And I get stressed out watching the sprints, so I need something – cheap. And in honour of the Giro ending in beautiful Verona, I’ve looked to the surrounding area of Veneto for today’s drink. Masi is an easy pick – a massive and respected producer, credited for having revolutionized the art of winemaking in the Venetian region. And this wine is a steal – even on our market! A blend of Garganega, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco yields fresh apple and sweet peach aromas, and bright flavours of pear, white peach, citrus and bitter almond – a recurring hallmark of whites from the area. Smooth mouthfeel, lively acid and elegant balance throughout – this is a modern wine, based on the very ancient, indigenous grape Garganega.

I’m going to pair mine with cyclingfans.com – but you can try with halibut or risotto verde. Cheers cyclists!

[rating]

—By Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

Peter Mertes Bree Riesling 2008

Mon, 24 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Mosel

Pfalz, Germany

$16.50-$19

Happy Victoria Day! Today’s holiday started me thinking about wine in England – and what we could use to toast the sovereign today. We all know of the UK love for Claret and Port – but this morning’s sunshine negated those choices. The English are also big fans of German whites, which they affectionately call Hock.

Hock sometimes refers to wine from the Rhine regions, but generally encompasses all German wine. It is short for the obsolete word hockamore - a derivative of the name of the German town of Hochheim on the Main River in the Rheingau wine region. Dating back to the 17th Century, it seems probable that Queen Victoria's visit to Hochheim and its vineyards during harvest time in 1850 has contributed to the continued use of the term hock.

So – hock it is to toast the Queen! And this brand new to BC Riesling makes for a fine toast indeed. I have to admit, I was skeptical when I saw the trick pony bottle, but cynical Treve was in check when I had a taste. Fresh and bright, with aromas and flavours of ripe green apple, lemonade and minerals. Light bodied and off dry with a smooth, pleasing lemon finish, this will be a wonderful summertime addition to your patio party or picnic. Screwcap appreciated!

When I researched this wine, I discovered that the bottle was designed specifically to appeal to women, and inspired by the sleek and stylish shape of a perfume bottle. Now that is wine meant for a queen. Or at least a diva.

[rating]

05/24/2010

— By Treve Ring, Online DRINK editor

Clos du Soleil Red 2007

Fri, 21 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Clos du Soleil

Red 2007 ($39-45)

Similkameen Valley

www.closdusoleil.ca

This week’s Bloom – VQA spring release tasting – burst forth in both Victoria and Vancouver. There were a number of lovelies that I’m looking forward to revisiting very soon (La Stella Leggier, La Vieux Pin Reserve Merlot, Tantalus Rose, Dirty Laundry Hush, Black Hills Alibi among them), but the winery that is imprinted in my mind – and on my palate – is Clos du Soleil.

One of BC’s newer wineries, Clos du Soleil is a collaboration of friends, nestled in the Similkameen, and fostered by the respected Lawrence and Sharon Herder, of Herder Winery. While cofounder Spenser Massie and his team are obviously enamored with all things French – especially Bordeaux – the crew at Clos du Soleil believe that less is more. Their current portfolio consists of two wines – White, and Red. Pretty simple. Until you taste them, that is. Suddenly ‘simple’ doesn’t suffice.

White 2007 is a creamy, smooth lemon and mineral knockout – a blend of 95% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Semillon. Nutty and spicy, with citrus, gooseberry and a great river of minerality spiking through, fresh acid and a beautiful balance – I was sure I had tasted my favourite wine of the day.

Until I tasted the Red 2007 that is. Wow – this meritage blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc is polished, layered and lengthy. A beautiful dusty gravel nose is surrounded with warm jammy raspberry, cherry, cedar and herbs. Powerful with structure, yet elegant and smooooth - I have no doubt this will age well, but will be hard to keep around long enough to see. Spenser shared that future vintages of Red will contain Malbec and Petit Verdot as their vines mature – a full Bx set. With Niagara winemaker Ann Sperling newly added to the team, I’m getting giddy just thinking about it.

There are only 450 cases of each Red and White available, so pick one (or two) up when you see them – and do me a favor – let me know how they age, k?

Red [rating]

—Treve Ring – Online DRINK Editor

Clos du Soleil White 2007

Thu, 20 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Clos du Soleil

White 2007 ($27-31)

Similkameen Valley

www.closdusoleil.ca

There are only 450 cases of each Red and White available, so pick one (or two) up when you see them – and do me a favor – let me know how they age, k?

White [rating]

—Treve Ring – Online DRINK Editor

Averill Creek Vineyard Foch-eh 2009

Mon, 17 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island

$18-22

www.averillcreek.ca

Foch-eh! Is Fun-eh! And by that I mean that this is a wine that pairs with fun. Summer BBQ’s, on the dock at the lake, chilled on the patio in the late aft…. This isn’t a winter warmer – even though it is made from that deepest of red grapes – Marechal Foch.

‘What’s that?’ you s-eh. A light and carefree Marechal Foch? It’s true – 100% Canadian Marechal Foch in fact, estate grown at Cowichan Valley’s Averill Creek Vineyard. Then, just like that other fun (and incredibly famous) red, Beaujolais, the grapes underwent carbonic maceration. A somewhat intimidating term for a fairly simple process. Whole bunches were put in tank under carbon dioxide for two weeks. The gas permeates through the grape skins and stimulates fermentation inside each intact berry. During this time the grapes are macerated (crushed) by gravity. The escaping gas affects the wine, resulting in very fruity characteristics, bright hue and low tannins. The difference between Foch-eh and Beaujolais is that the latter is crafted from gamine Gamay grapes, and the former is from fierce Foch.

The result – an easy-drinking, light-medium bodied wine - bright royal purple in colour with a bold nose of plum, and flavours of plum, mulled cherry and sweet spice. The structure is soft but the finish is long and fruity – and would be ideal served slightly chilled. Finally – a use for those plastic reusable ice cubes!

If you haven’t visited Averill Creek in person, you really need to. Besides great wine, Andy Johnston’s winery is visually stunning - crafted on four levels sloping down Mt. Prevost. The levels are fitted together so as to create a gravity flow method for handling the wine. The first (top) level of the winery is the grape reception pad. This flows to the press pad and ferment floor. After fermentation the wine flows by gravity to the blending floor and then to the barrel room. The wine ends up in barrel having never been pumped – helping to retain the identity and terroir of Cowichan Valley fruit. This is especially important for Averill Creek’s highly regarded Pinot Noir.

[rating]

Reviewed by Treve Ring - Online DRINK Editor

May 17, 2010

Driftwood Brewery Belle Royale

Fri, 14 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Victoria, BC

$5-7 for 650ml bottle (9% abv)

www.driftwoodbeer.com

Well, we’ve reached the half way mark of the first ever Vancouver Craft Beer Week. Numerous dinners, tastings and events are taking place throughout the city. And Victoria’s newest brewery, Driftwood, is proving to be the buzzy, boozy, Belle of the Ball. Especially their new Belle Royale.

This limited edition strong Belgian cherry ale was created with nearly 900 pounds of Morello sour cherries (that’s ¼ pound per bottle, thank you math wizards). Salmon orange in hue, with mild cherry aromas and flavours of spicy hops, crisp tart citrus and a lingering bitter cherry finish. Surprisingly, not overtly cherry – more waftish, with nice fresh acid. Would make a wow moment with cherry glazed pork tenderloin or enjoy with a dark chocolate dessert – Black Forest cake please.

Bonus points for stunning label. Ooh la la!

[rating]

Reviewed By Treve Ring - Online DRINK Editor

Phillips Brewing Company Double Barrel Scotch Ale

Tue, 11 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Victoria, BC

$6 for 650ml bottle (7.7% abv)

www.phillipsbeer.com

In case you haven’t heard (almost impossible due to the brilliant buzz), May 10-16 is Vancouver Craft Beer Week – the inaugural edition of what is sure to be a hugely popular event. With upwards of 25 local craft breweries and 20 venues participating in various dinners, tastings and mixers – plus a promise of ‘no crap beer’, how can it miss?

To honour VCBW, Drink will be profiling a couple of our local microbrews this week – hopefully introducing you to some revelatory tastes. What these small boutique breweries lack in size, they make up for with sheer creativity and guts. Being small also allows for greater flexibility and small run bottlings. Like Double Barrel. Phillips Brew Master/Blue Truck Driver/Sometime Still Builder/Blue Buck Buddy/All Around Nice Guy/Owner Matt Phillips put it like this: “We wanted to make a new beer and found a more expensive way to do it.” The final sum was worth it here. Take well-made Scotch ale. Add an aging stint in Kentucky Bourbon barrels, and then a second layover into Okanagan Cab Sauv barrels. The result? A burnished red-copper hue with layered flavours of sultry caramel, vanilla, biscuit and gentle sweet peat notes with a bitter orange finish. I’m not one to drink warm beer, but more flavours and aromas presented themselves the longer the beer was swirled in the glass. More Bourbony than winey – and lighter bodied than I expected – especially with all the obvious wood character. Definitely different and edgy – ‘no crap beer’ here. Innovative Matt Phillips once again shows why he is the best craft brewer in BC.

[rating]

Reviewed By Treve Ring - Online DRINK Editor

Laurent Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut NV

Sat, 8 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

$100-110

Website

Ok, ok – I know what you’re thinking - $100! DRINK is recommending a $100 wine?! But hear me out – this isn’t just any old wine, and this isn’t for just any old occasion. This is CHAMPAGNE. The real champagne. Not ‘champagne’ from California. Not ‘champagne’ you get with your $35 3-course dinner. Authentic, true Champers comes ONLY from the Champagne region of France. That’s it – everything else is – well – really - sparkling wine.

And the occasion for Champagne (not that I ever need a reason) is that this Sunday is Mother’s Day. And truly, there is no better way to thank mom with a toast of delicious bubble. Nothing but the finest for mom on mother’s day! *Ahem – since I’m a mom, I like to promote this idea as oft I can*

So after delivering breakfast in bed, cleaning the house, making a card and mowing the lawn, pop open a bottle of this splendour in salmon pink. Expressively fresh strawberry, citrus and raspberry aromas lift up out of the flute to meet you. Elegant and full bodied, with fine mousse and notes of strawberry, cream, brioche, dark cherry and mineral and a lingering cherry-currant finish. Graceful, elegant, structured. Hmmm…. Like a certain DRINK-er….

One of the best selling rosé Champagne in the world, L-P's Cuvée Rosé Brut is one of the few rosés still made by the saignée method – keeping skin contact with the 100% Grand Cru Vineyard Pinot Noir grapes – to produce the structured and complex rose. This traditional technique is honoured with the signature embossed bottle - a reproduction of those used in the late 17th century.

A time honoured tradition - much like celebrating mom. Happy Mother's Day to all ~~

[rating]

- Reviewed By Treve Ring - Online DRINK Editor

Empress 1908 Tea Cocktail

Thu, 29 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

The Fairmont Empress

$12

www.fairmont.com/empress

There are some ladies that need no introduction, and Victoria’s grandest dame of all – the Fairmont Empress– is certainly one. Just stepping into the grand lobby sweeps you into a bygone era. But don’t be mistaken – this grandeur isn’t limited to the haute and mighty. No – this dame has some young blood in her veins – and the freshness is evident in the queued up beverage program. Phillips Lager on tap and Tantalus Riesling by the glass in the Bengal? Thank you madam!

Something intrinsically and uniquely Empress? Order thyself the Empress 1908. Created to commemorate the centenary of tea service at the property (that’s right – 100 years and counting), this special cocktail infuses vodka with Empress Blend tea, mixes it with fresh lemon and simple syrup and tops with a cloud of frothy egg whites. This is your afternoon cuppa-come-cocktail. Exotically spicy, with delicate floral and heady malt notes, the aroma wafts out of the glass to politely greet you, and the palate is lifted by sweet, bright lemon. At once coolly refreshing, soulfully satisfying and oh so sophisticated – I could take tea time every day. Oh – and it’s served with the cutest wee tea scone. If you’re at the Bengal during the day, watch for modest and skilled Bartender Leonard Lim behind the bar. Len has worked at the Empress for 40 years - !!

Cheers to you Len!

One of the most amazing spaces in summertime Victoria – the Veranda – opens at the Empress on April 30th. This outdoor slice runs along the front and centre of the hotel – overlooking the lawn, the Causeway and the Inner Harbour beyond. With seating for 59, seats here are snapped up quickly. Wide chairs are decked out with plush cushions, warming heaters hang from above and big cozy blankets are at the ready if needed. This is the ideal place to sit on a summer eve and watch the entire Victoria world pass by in front of you. All while toasting the Grand Dame with your Empress 1908, naturally.

[rating]

*All BC residents qualify for a 20% discount and special rates and events with a Friend of the Empress Card. See www.friendsoftheempress.ca.

Empress 1908 Tea Cocktail

recipe and photo courtesy of the Fairmont Empress

• 1 1/2 oz Empress Tea Infused Vodka (see recipe)

• 3/4 oz fresh lemon juice

• 3/4 oz simple syrup

• 3/4 oz pasteurized egg white

• Garnish: super fine sugar 1/2 rim

• lemon disk - squeezed

• mini scone

To make:

1. In a pint mixing glass measure in spirits and mixers.

2. Cap and shake vigorously for 10 seconds - HARD shake.

3. Strain into a cocktail glass.

4. Squeeze the lemon disk over the top of the drink and discard it.

5. Place drink on a B&B plate with doily.

6. Place mini scone on plate as garnish.

Glass: cocktail glass

Empress Tea Infused Vodka

• bottle (1.4 liter) vodka (The Empress Hotel uses Finlandia)

• 4 Empress Blend Tea Bags

Pour out 1/2 cup of the vodka into a glass and reserve. Fold tea bags being careful not to tea and add to the bottle of vodka. Add the reserved vodka back into the bottle. Cap and shake. Infuse for 4 hours before use.

Road 13 Vineyards Rockpile 2008

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Golden Mile and Black Sage Bench, Okanagan Valley, BC

$25-29

www.road13vineyard.com

I first met winemaker Michael Bartier back in 2007, when we were both judging at the Northwest Wine Summit. I think we were the 2 sole BC judges in the bunch, and I was fortunate enough to be grouped with Bartier for a number of flights. I remember being impressed by his incredible varietal and vinification knowledge and confidence in his convictions. He certainly knew his stuff – not in a braggart, look-at-me way - but in the way that made you want to listen, and learn what he had to share. So I was very interested to hear this spring that Road 13 Vineyards have made the bold move away from single grape wines towards blends.

Bye bye Merlot and buds. Hello Rockpile.

In the press release Bartier explains “It is a bold and risky move to stop the production of some of our most popular wines but we are sacrificing them for a higher cause – even better wines. … Don’t get me wrong, I love Chardonnay and I love Sauvignon Blanc. I just happen to love them more when they are put together.”

Blending is as old as winemaking itself. Back before grapes were identified and analyzed, numerous varietals would grow together in one vineyard, and were picked, crushed and vinified at once. Even today, with Old World wines it’s all location, location, location. Site and terroir takes precedent over grape varietal. Think Chateauneuf du Pape. So to, for Road 13.

Rockpile takes its name from the rock-rich soils where these grapes are grown. This blend certainly is a pile: 60% Syrah, 19% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 2% Zinfandel, 1% Viognier, 1% Grenache and 1% Mourvedre. If there was any shadow of a doubt about Bartier’s blending prowess before, it’s proven now! There is a lot going on in this bottle – complex and well integrated flavours of spice, black cherries, pepper, juicy ripe plum, savoury meat, dusty cocoa and sweet vanilla. The more I tasted this wine, the more flavours I got out of it. Seamless smooth and full bodied, with layers of flavours that keep revealing themselves the more you tuck in.

The winery has released 4,500 cases of this inaugural blend – almost 25% of Road 13's entire production. The high stakes have paid off.

[rating]

By Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

Sunday May 2 is Wiener Dog Day at Road 13 Vineyards

Becoming a “must-do” event at the Okanagan Wine Festival, Road 13 Vineyards will host their 2nd annual Wiener Dog Day barbeque May 2 at 11:30 am. Hosted by resident daschunds Fil and Meg, $3.50 buys a gourmet hot dog created by Road 13 proprietor and vineyard guy Mick Luckhurst. Meg and Fil have their own gourmet offerings. Full-figured wiener dog Meg is addicted to good food, so her “Meg Dog” includes fried onions and cheese. Super fit Fil always eats his vegetables, so the “Fil Dog” features fresh bell peppers and fried onions.

Wine and non-alcoholic drinks are available for purchase, and proceeds benefit the Osoyoos Desert Centre and its programs to conserve the biologically rich and diverse habitats of British Columbia’s southern interior.

CBC radio announcer and author Troy Townsin will also attend the barbeque from 12pm on selling signed copies of his latest cookbook, WineFeast, which features world-class food with local chefs and products.

Pets are welcome of course - especially wiener dogs! For more information, please visit www.road13vineyards.com

Galil Mountain Winery Chardonnay Kosher 2008

Mon, 26 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Galilee, Israel

$17-19

www.galilmountain.co.il

Well, Playhouse is over. If you over indulged both your wallet, your liver AND your stomach this past week (if you haven’t, you are most likely the minority), let me provide you with a choice sandwich-friendly white. And perhaps surprise you as well, since this wine comes from Israel.

Israel? That’s right. In addition to producing wine for centuries, according to the bible, Jesus’ first recorded miracle was turning 150 gallons of water into very good wine for wedding guests in Cana of Galilee. Galilee (or Galil) is the most northern region and produces many of Israel's top wines and Galil Mountain Winery is renowned as the Upper Galilee's leading winery, with production over 1 million bottles per year.

Ancient land – modern techniques. This Chardonnay was 60% cold fermented in stainless and 40% fermented in new French oak. The result is a fresh wine with citrus, delicate floral and crisp apple flavours, with a soft wash of toast and honey throughout. The red apple finish is pleasant and simple – just right for that glazed ham and swiss on rye, or turkey and havarti on sourdough.

Good for the wallet, good for the stomach… Sorry - I can’t help your liver.

[rating]

Two Paddocks Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008

Sat, 24 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

New Zealand

$37-42 (coming soon)

www.twopaddocks.com

Wow – Playhouse Wine Festival week. Busy times. And that’s putting it mildly. 1700 wines, 196 wineries, 14 countries, 63 events, 7 days. Plus 25,000 wine drinkers in attendance. Certifiably busy.

And there is no busier place than the grand central hub of it all - the International Festival Tasting Room. For two days (trade) and three nights (public) this room lofty room at the VCC has seen more swirling, sipping and spitting than any other in Vancouver. It takes a few spins of the room to get your bearings. Theme regions, Argentina and New Zealand, have special consideration and critical mass clumping. There were many surprises – and many delights.

One table that I had to keep circling to pounce on was Two Paddocks, from NZ’s Central Otago region. The buzz about this winery preceded its arrival at Playhouse. Sometime Hollywood actor Sam Neill (Jurassic Park) is the proprietor of this small family estate winery – and entirely dedicated to producing wines (primarily Pinot Noir, plus Riesling) that sing the praises of their region’s terroir. Sam was in attendance at the festival – graciously shaking hands, granting interviews and pouring, pouring, pouring. He had as many people gawking at him as tasting. There were two Pinot Noirs at the booth, and these – plus a Riesling – will soon be available for purchase in BC thanks to the amazing and astute team at New World Wines (www.newworldwines.ca). The top tier PN – Two Paddocks Central Otago – is a lovely cool climate PN.

Silky and elegant, but pensively so – with dark cherry, floral, leather and wet earth notes in this light-medium bodied wine. In my lunatic tasting book: “rocky edge that will most certainly mellow with age.” And “heaps of character.” Fitting for an actor, no?

[rating]

- by Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

Château de Caraguilhes Domaine de L’Olivette Red 2006

Mon, 19 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Vin de Pays des Côteaux de la Cabrerisse, Corbières, France

Website

$20-23

Though winemaking has been around for thousands of years and is a very natural and organic process, modern winemaking is anything but. From the pesticides in the farming, to the gas to run the tractor, to the manufacture of the glass bottles, to the global shipping engine, the wine on your table costs a lot more than the monetary price you paid for it at the store.

To be honest, it’s generally not something I think too much about. But as Earth Day is here (April 22) I find myself reflecting on my wine choices. There are many ways to go ‘green’ with your wine selections: buy locally produced wine that doesn’t travel great distances, support producers that utilize organic practices, try wine in eco-friendly packaging – there are a few options you can easily slip into your life.

Château de Caraguilhes is ECOCERT designated (www.ecocert.com), ensuring that all grapes grown are completely organic. No pesticides, herbicides or chemical fertilizers were used in these vineyards – Ch. De Caraguilhes is the largest organic vineyard in the Corbières region. Instead they utilize natural pest and weed control, along with polyculture practices. This method of planting numerous plants other than vines in and around the vineyard improves biodiversity and healthy, self-sustaining vineyards.

Ok – all that is great and dandy – but what does it mean in your glass? Let me put it this way – you can happily celebrate the earth year round with this wine. A blend of Merlot (50%), Grenache (25%) and Syrah (25%), this humble Vin de Pays has concentrated aromas of cherry and spice, juicy flavours of plum and cherry, and spicy dark violet notes. There is a cool hint of light mint in this soft, mouth filling wine, and bright acid and juicy fruit though to the finish. This is a great wine for roasted poultry (free range of course).

* In the 12th Century, the monks of the Cistercian Order undertook the task of developing viniculture in the Corbières region. Recognizing the ideal grape growing conditions here, the hard working monks’ agricultural domains became very prosperous. One of these domains was the lands of Caraguilhes – an area of 600 unbroken hectares that has remained intact to this day.

[rating]

By Treve Ring, Online DRINK Editor

(think outside the bottle)

Van Westen Vineyards Viognier 2008

Thu, 15 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley

$19-23

www.vanwestenvineyards.com

Out of all the wines I tasted at this week’s Naramata Bench Spring Release, the Van Westen Vineyards whites are stuck in my mind. Now it could be because the stunning and sunlit sanctuary/greenhouse/reception room at the Inn at Laurel Point was 800 degrees on this spring day (please! Invest in A/C! Thank you!), but the refreshing, vibrant fruit flavours of these whites shone.

In particular, I am thinking of the Vino Grigio – aka – Pinot Grigio. You see, owner/winemaker Rob Van Westen has a thing for V’s. Their lineup includes Viognier, Vivacious (Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris) and Voluptuous (Merlot and Cabernet Franc). This Vino is stainless steel fermented and aged, preserving the intense crisp pear, citrus and cool mineral flavours. My notebook has stars around the silky smooth palate – so juicy and zesty, while impressively balanced and lengthy. The Viognier was another great find and worth visiting the winery for (in small production, the winery sells out of Viognier pretty quickly every year).

Next hot day? Get thee a V!

[rating]

By Treve Ring, Online DRINK editor

Altos Las Hormigas Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda 2008

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Mendoza, Argentina

$13-15

www.colonialasliebres.com

Ah – the week before Playhouse. The remaining tickets are being snapped up, winemakers are arriving from all points on the globe, and wine geeks – um – fans, like me are drafting their schedules. Argentina is one of the regions in focus this year (along with New Zealand), and many a tongue will be Malbec-stained purple by the end of the festivities. But while Argentina’s Malbecs will certainly get the lion’s share of attention, I want to talk about a lesser known red from the lofty country. So much lesser known, that this bottle of Bonarda was the only government listed one I could locate this week in BC.

Originally grown in Italy’s Piedmont region, the Bonarda grape has seen much success in the high altitude, rich soils of Argentina, where it is a major varietal. Dark ruby, with aromas of sweet stewed plums, strawberry and mulled spice, this unoaked wine has bright cherry, grapey, floral flavours with a run of cola throughout. Light-medium body, playful in the glass and fresh-but-firm tannic finish reminded me of a Dolcetto or Gamay. In my opinion, 40+ year old vines deserve better than a synthetic plastic cork – but hey – we’re talking $13 here.

And – not to be overlooked, the sweet bunny label (Colonia Las Liebres = Hares Colony) is guaranteed a smile.

[rating]

There are still tickets available for seminars, grazing mixers and the main International Festival Tasting Room. www.playhousewinefest.com

Robert Oatley Vineyards James Oatley Tic Tok Pinot Gris 2009

Thu, 8 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Adelaide Hills, South Australia

$16-18

www.robertoatley.com.au

Though not too many North Americans know about Bob – I mean - Robert - Oatley, he’s quite the figure down under. A proud and passionate fifth-generation Aussie, Oatley has built a diverse family business that includes vineyards, wineries, cattle stations, thoroughbred horses and luxury tourism. If his name isn’t familiar, his wine legacy certainly is - Bob Oatley established the now famous Hunter Valley-based Rosemount Estate, producing his first commercial vintages in the early 1970s.

In 2006, after leaving winemaking (his ‘retirement’ lasted one year), he returned with Robert Oatley Vineyards, now with 4 distinct wine lines. The newest range has been named James Oatley Tic Tok series – honouring Bob’s great, great grandfather James, a clockmaker, and the first of his clan to land in Sydney in 1815.

Haven’t come across Tic Tok on your wine watch? Not surprising – these wines are new to BC. The catchy label caught my eye, and the intro price tag reeled me in. Glad I bit! From the cool Adelaide Hills district, flavours of creamy ripe pear, pink lady apple and fresh minerality are under the welcomed stelvin cap. Mostly fermented in stainless steel, a small portion was fermented in older oak – providing an oomph of musky complexity. Medium bodied, smooth and nicely balanced – not at all wood-weighted, but fruit-forward. A lovely little well-made surprise and one I’ll be sure to return to – especially for this price.

Watch for the more established Robert Oakley Vineyards range in private liquor stores in BC.

[rating]

—By Treve Ring, Online drink editor

JoieFarm Wine Muscat 2009 ($23-26) / Rosé 2009 ($21-24)

Sat, 3 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Naramata, BC

www.joiefarm.com

Any occasion can be turned into a joyous occasion in my book – just open a bottle of JoieFarm wine. Owned and operated by a sommelier and chef (great sign # 1) Michael Dinn and Heidi Noble’s Naramata winery has been garnering attention and acclaim since it opened the fall of 2002. Originating as Joie, the French word for ‘Joy’, the property has been a constantly evolving concept that began as a guesthouse and critically acclaimed en plein air cooking school, located in their orchard. Over time, the orchard was converted to grape vines and a new winery building was built on the property. Heidi released an award winning book, Menus from an Orchard Table, chronicling the cooking school and terroir-based recipes of Naramata. With the addition of their own estate grown fruit in 2009, they changed their name to JoieFarm to better reflect their connection to the land. Heidi and Michael’s interest is focused exclusively in the grape varieties of Alsace and Burgundy (great sign #2) – an excellent fit the cool-climate, desert landscape of the Okanagan.

This week it was announced that JoieFarm was named “2010 British Columbia Winery of the Year” by Wine Press Northwest in the spring edition of their magazine. This award is selected by the editors of Wine Press Northwest based on blind tastings, visits, accolades and other considerations. Last fall, in Wine Press Northwest's Platinum Judging, their JoieFarm 2008 Riesling finished No. 1 out of 450 gold medal-winning wines, making it "the best of the best in the Great Northwest." Remarkably, the 2008 Noble Blend finished No. 2!

Along with the season’s first flowers, Joie’s spring releases arrived a couple of weeks ago. For those who aren’t very familiar with the Muscat grape, it is known as being the ‘grapiest’ varietal. By this I mean the wine tastes exactly like the fruit from which it’s made – GRAPES. JoieFarm Muscat bursts forth with spiced floral aromas, fruity sweet candied grape flavours, a shish of anise and perfumed white peach. Crisp and dry, the bright acid checks the grapey sweetness to strike a beautiful, delicate balance, and a lemony mouth watering exit. This is already sold out at the winery, so buddy up to your local private liquor store or lucky restaurateur for a taste.

Now a BC icon, JoieFarm Rosé has time and time again taught people to ‘rethink pink’. The 2009 vintage will continue the conversion quest. Light bodied and elegant, this year’s Rosé is a blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris. Amazing aromas of wild strawberry, mineral and spice leads to a textured palate of cherry, raspberry, and crisp pear. Structured and refreshing – always a winning combo! Heidi and Michael have said they craft their wines to be food-friendly, and the lower alcohol, bright acid, slight kiss of sweetness and lengthy, juicy, citrus finish invite pairing this bottle with a wide range of foods.

Muscat – 3.5 stars

Rosé – 4 stars

—By Treve Ring, online drink editor

Michael-David Winery 7 Deadly Zins Zinfandel 2007

Wed, 31 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Lodi, Central Valley, California

$26-29

www.lodivineyards.com

If this is sinning, let us be zinners – I mean, sinners, all. There are some grapes that easily skip across the globe, and then there is Zinfandel – so entwined with California that it catches people off guard when they see it elsewhere. Here old vine Zinfandel from seven vineyards is enriched with shakes of Petit Sirah and Petite Verdot, and is aged in toasty American Oak. The result is plush plum and wafts of smoke, deep jammy blackberry, blueberry, spicy cinnamon and cool vanilla. Modern, slick and a little bit dangerous – suitable for a sinner – or a cocoa rubbed rib eye on the BBQ.

If this wine gets you in a Cali state of mind, be sure to thank the folks at Michael-David Vineyards at next week’s California Wine Fair 2010. Now in its 30th year, this annual tasting tour is the largest group of California wine to visit Canada, touching down on nine cities and introducing the vintners and their wines to their northern neighbours. The Vancouver version takes place on April 7th at the Vancouver Convention Centre, showcasing 350 wines from 100 wineries, many of which are making their Canadian debut. www.calwine.ca

[rating]

- By Treve Ring, Web Wine Editor

Vancouver Island Brewery Sea Dog Amber Ale

Mon, 29 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Victoria, BC

$11.55 - $14 for 6 x 341ml

This time last year, Vancouver Island Brewery released Spyhopper Honey Brown, commemorating their 25th anniversary and referencing the coastal Killer Whale’s playful popping out of the ocean. This year, Victoria’s venerable VIB released Sea Dog Amber Ale, named in honour of the 100th anniversary of Canada’s Navy.

Smart marketing. Spring, suds, sea – the orca-logoed brewery is working this theme to their advantage. A burnished copper hue, Sea Dog welcomes with a toasted nut aroma and flavours of fresh popped popcorn, rooty malt and a clean finish. More a pair-with-food brew than a refreshing sipping beer, this ale makes a nice transition from the winter wet coast weather to the welcome sunlight of early spring. I enjoyed this with grilled pork chop and carmelized root veg – the sweet toastiness of both playing off each other.

I’m taking an early stab at their spring 2011 release – Porpoise Porter perhaps?

[rating]

www.vanislandbrewery.com

By Treve Ring, Web Wine Editor

Da Vinci Chianti DOCG 2007

Sun, 21 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Tuscany, Italy

$18-20

Value, value, value. No matter if it’s a $10 that tastes like a $20, or a $20 that tastes like a $30 – I love finding a wine that I would have pegged at more than the sticker – especially in this pricy BC market. Enter Da Vinci Chianti. An innovative cooperative of winemaker and growers, Da Vinci makes a number of wines across numerous subregions of Tuscany. This modern approach is reflective in their wines – classical tradition married with current technique. This is their entry level Chianti (the Classico and Reserva stepping up the complexity spectrum respectively).

Predominantly, if not entirely, Sangiovese, this enticing cherry aroma leads to a fruit forward, medium bodied red, with deep cherry, spicy currant and earthy walnut flavours and young yet soft, welcoming tannins. Befitting its provenance, this would be so lovely with a sundried tomato sauced pasta.

Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG): The highest level of Italian government classification that regulates the growing of vines, production of wine and labeling of bottles of wines guaranteed of 'particular reputation and worth.' The entire Chianti region is classified DOCG. For basic Chianti DOCG, the grapes must be sourced entirely from within the 8 subregions of the Chianti region and must be a minimum of 75% Sangiovese.

[rating]

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

Villa Maria Estate Sauvignon Blanc Private Bin 2008

Mon, 15 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

$19-21

If there’s ever a wine you want to get for your blind tasting, NZ Sauvignon Blanc is it. Sauv Blanc from New Zealand has a very distinct and pungently powerful aroma – kindly referred to by the French as ‘pee pee le chat’. The amazingly reliable Villa Maria knows their stuff – making no less than 6 different Sauvignon Blancs each vintage – each highlighting a different area or vineyard.

Fruit for this wine - their Private Bin bottling - was sourced from vineyards in the Wairau and Awatere Valleys, in the Marlborough region. This assertively flavoured style explodes with vibrant gooseberry, juicy passionfruit and tropical fruit aromas. On the palate, clean, crisp citrus flavours – grapefruit, lime, lemon – rule, joined by zippy minerality and grassy notes. Fresh, fresh, fresh! Learn this wine and you’ll never miss a NZ Sauv Blanc on your blind tasting again.

Best drunk when young (the wine, not you). Pair with early season halibut in a lemon herb crust.

New Zealand is one of the Regional Themes (along with Argentina) of this year’s Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, April 19-25, 2010. In its 32nd year, Playhouse is one of the biggest and oldest wine events in the world, offering something for every level of wine drinker, collector and trade professional. Winery principals (winemaker, proprietor, senior executive) from selected wineries and countries will be in attendance to pour and discuss their wines. www.playhousewinefest.com .

*Watch for Treve’s daily blogs from Playhouse 2010.

[rating]

By Treve Ring – online wine editor

Viu Manent Reserva Carmenere 2008

Sun, 7 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Colchagua Valley, Rapel Valley, Chile

$20-23

The February 27th, 8.8 magnitude earthquake and ensuing tsunami had a real affect on Chile’s wine industry. Not just to the wineries and cellars, but most importantly, to the homes of the vineyard and winery workers. The majority of the damage occurred to the Maule, Cachapoal and Colchagua areas – all major wine regions. An assessment by Wines of Chile indicates that the damage sustained by wineries affected less than 13% of the country’s cellared wine. This equals approximately US $250M. Supply to countries around the world will not be affected and the 2010 harvest, which has begun in the northern wine regions, is proceeding as planned.

The best way to help these wineries – and their real life human resources – is to keep purchasing Chilean wine. Not that you need any other reasons to pick up this lovely red. Though Carmenere can be a stemmy hard sell in the wrong hands, when yields are low and care is taken, wines like this result. A dark ruby hue and whiffs of black cherry, ash and cedar is your introduction to this bottle of 100 percent Carménère. On the palate, characteristic Chilean leafy herbaceousness balances out with savory dark chocolate, ripe black plum and leather. A fourteen-month stint in French Oak plumps up the mouthfeel and softens the tannins. Pair with meaty pasta – carmenere can take the salty olives, bell peppers and chunky tomatoes that scare many big reds.

The Colchagua Valley, where Viu Manent is centered, lies within the Rapel Valley Wine District, sandwiched between the foothills of the Andes and the winds of the Pacific. Wine Enthusiast named Colchagua Valley as Wine Region of the Year 2005, and numerous international wineries have invested here, including Rothschild-Lafite.

*** stars

By Treve Ring – online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Sea Cider Kings & Spies 2007

Sat, 27 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Saanich Peninsula, Vancouver Island

$15 for 750ml bottle

Even though the weather of late would seem otherwise, it is still winter. Apples are one of the few local fruits that are available through February in BC. Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse knows all about apples, growing organic heritage apples for their traditional, English-style ciders. The apples in this (very coolly named!) cider however are not all grown on their oceanfront site, but from Victoria’s backyards, in partnership with LifeCycles (see below).

Local Kings and Northern Spies make up the bulk of the blend in this gently effervescent cider. A muted sweet pear nose leads to creamy apple, crisp pear and nutty flavours and mellow acidity. We enjoyed this with grilled pork chop and mashed yams. Bonus points for the hefty glass resealable bottles. Website

* LifeCycles is a nonprofit organization dedicated to cultivating awareness and initiating action around food, health, and urban sustainability in the Greater Victoria community that promotes food education. They work proactively to promote and create personal, shared and community gardens, research, and educational activities and youth skills development programs. Every year they organize volunteers to pick unwanted tree fruits from Victoria’s backyards for use in packaged product, or to feed the lesser fortunate. Website

** and a half stars

By Treve Ring – online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Ogier & Fils Les Brunnelles 2006 Crozes-Hermitage

Tue, 23 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Rhone Valley, France

$27-33

Wines like this remind me just how much I love Rhone wines. These non-pretentious, solid and ruggedly tamed wines can be intoxicating. To me, these are reliable and earthy delights – polished, but with an honest and rustic patina. This 100% Syrah is no exception – and a fantastic Crozes-Hermitage for the price. Unmistakable cracked black pepper and wild raspberry aromas, and an exciting spicy palate of vibrant dark raspberry, cherry, pepper, salted meats, violet and sweet vanilla. Concentrated, full bodied and fruit driven, with tannins grippy enough to stand up to that porterhouse tonight – no need to wait a few years. Very well done and great value for price – an attractive, impressive Northern Rhone Syrah to drink now.

In 1859, Christophe Ogier establishes a wine merchants company called Ogier & Fils, which was handed down to his son Antoine in 1895, with a name change to A. Ogier & Fils. In 1948, the company morphed into that of a négociant-éleveur, buying grapes and wine from certain quality growers and crafting their own house cuvées from them.

**** stars

By Treve Ring – online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery Tribute NV

Fri, 12 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

$30-35

O CANADA!

I can’t say no to sparkling – especially when it comes from the hand of Sumac Ridge’s senior winemaker Mark Wendenberg, arguably the Okanagan’s best at handcrafted sparkling wines (Stellar’s Jay and Pinnacle are proof).

His latest bubbly, Tribute, created with Sumac Ridge winemaker Jason James, is 100% Chardonnay, created in the painstaking and shortcut-free traditional method, aging for 16 months in bottle before release this summer.

And a fitting tribute this Tribute is - With the purchase of every bottle, $1.25 is donated directly to the Canadian Olympic team and the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic winter games. Bright aromas of citrus, crisp apple and perfumed floral notes lead to a creamy palate of baked Granny Smith, zippy lemon, honey and creamy lees. Big and ripe style – certainly podium-worthy.

And we all know there is no better way to celebrate Canada on the podium next than with a Tribute toast.

**Buzz is that Sumac Ridge’s Mark Wendenberg and team are working on expanding the winery’s beautiful bubbly bevies – watch for future bottles of both a sparkling rose and sparkling Gewurztraminer. So exciting – I’ll toast to that!

*** and a half stars

Website

By Treve Ring – online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Inniskillin Okanagan Riesling Icewine 2007

Sat, 6 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Okanagan Valley

$35-40 for 200ml, $60-65 for 375ml

This was such an easy choice for this week. Why? Because Inniskillin Icewine dominance is realized worldwide. Because the company’s icewine was selected by Oprah Winfrey as a Valentine’s Day suggestion this year. Because it was served to accompany the dessert course at the Nobel Prize dinner at which president Obama received his Peace Prize in December 2009. Because here, on the eve of the Winter Olympics and the world’s attention on BC, we should recognize Canada’s famous contribution to the wine world. Because Valentine’s Day is next weekend. And most important - because it’s delicious!

Ripe peach and apricot aromas lead to rich flavours of juicy pear, orange, apple and intense apricot. Lush and tropical – with a bright Riesling acidity to balance out the incredible creamy sweetness.

This precious elixir was made from hand harvested Riesling grapes naturally frozen on the vine from highly regarded Dark Horse Vineyard. Only a few drops of highly concentrated juice come from each frozen bunch. This particular vintage was harvested on New Year’s Day, 2008. We’re spoiled in B.C. with a climate suitable for annual icewine production. For the majority of the globe, icewine is a rare delicacy.

The conditions required to produce icewine are harsh, regulated and strict – in a nutshell: grapes must be frozen naturally on the vine at a minimum temperature of -8 degrees celcius, for a minimum of 4 hours and at least 35 Brix sweetness. The grapes must be picked and pressed immediately – usually in the vineyard (don’t forget it’s below freezing!). I’d say that easily deserves a gold medal.

Website

*** and a half stars

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Heggies Vineyard Chardonnay 2008

Mon, 1 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Eden Valley, Australia

$28-31

Chardonnay is the world's most well known and widely planted white wine grape. In recent times, its popularity and mass-production spawned the ABC (“Anything But Chardonnay”) Backlash. The heyday of the giant, flabby uber-oaked Californian examples is – thankfully – over. But oak isn’t bad for chardonnay – in fact, it can be magic (hello white Burgundy). Successful new world oaked chards strive for stylish subtlety and balance– and if you want to taste what I mean, forget the ABC’s and pick up a bottle of Heggies.

There are seven different selections of Chardonnay clones at Heggies, with three favoured French variants comprising the majority of this wine. New and used French oak is tempered by vibrant tropical fruit. Richly textured and full bodied, with bright citrus, creamy pear, toasted almond spice and a lovely vein of minerality. A big vanillan finish can overwhelm a lot of foods, so pair weight with weight – think butter.

*** stars

Website

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Castillo de Monséran Garnacha 2008

Sat, 23 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Cariñena, Aragon, Spain

$11-13

Earlier this month I wrote about a great value white that over delivers for price – and here’s a red counterpart. As much as people love to gripe about the BCLS, we have them to thank for making this value red a consistent bargain in BC. This is a stellar everyday drinking wine – suitable for everything from burgers to pasta to pizza to poultry. A perennial party and restaurant by-the-glass favourite, you can afford to buy this by the case. Castillo de Monséran focuses on just one thing – Garnacha (aka Grenache) – so you have to figure they know their stuff. And they certainly do – fruity raspberry and peppery spice aromas lead to a medium bodied, old-world styled sipper of dusty raspberry, cedar, plum and black currant. Nice balance and fresh finish – all this for approximately $11!

When I purchased this wine a couple of days ago, the clerk waxed poetic about the “Carinena” wine making up this bottle. Yes, Carignan is a red wine grape popular in the south of France, but Cariñena is a region in Spain. An honest – and somewhat cute – mistake, and a great example of how a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.

** stars

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Starling Lane Winery Maréchal Foch 2007

Sat, 16 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Saanich Peninsula, Vancouver Island, BC

$24-26

This is a storming wine. Big gutsy flavour for big blustery days – like January in BC. Foch is a wine that people either love or love to hate – there’s no middle ground. But really – what’s not to love about Starling Lane’s version? A dark ruby colour, with plush vanilla, dark raspberry, deep plum, dusty cocoa, and a lovely spicy finish. Nice acidity - and thankfully none of the gaminess that would turn this love story sour. This is a big red from a cool climate! Partner with slow roasted venison or lamb, cracked pepper and glazed root veg.

Maréchal Foch [MAY-ray-shahl FOHSH] is a hybrid, grown in North America. A hybrid is a breeding between two species of vine, in this case vitis vinifera and vitis riparia – in the hopes of gaining the positive benefits of both species.

This wine is sold out at the winery, but there are still a few bottles available at select private liquor stores and savvy restaurants. Tip – get on Starling Lane’s contact list and reserve for next vintage.

*** and a half stars

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Boutari Kretikos

Sat, 9 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Crete, Greece

$12-14

Is your resolution to spend less? Be more adventurous? Expand your vocabulary? Well – do I have the wine for you! While we’re facing the wet BC winter weather, let your thoughts and palate take you to sunny Greece. Even the vibrant blue label harkens the Mediterranean Sea.

Boutari is the Robert Mondavi of Greece, with the winery dating back to 1879 and wine domination pretty much continually since. Kretikos’ blend will most likely add some new grapes to add to your tasting repertoire: Vilana, Thrapsathiri and Athiri. This pleasantly simple white has wafts of peach and grapefruit aromas and a fresh palate of dried apricot, citrus and almonds. Bright acidity and refreshing aromatic finish exceed the steal of a price. Would be a lovely match to creamy cheeses.

** and a half

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2008

Mon, 28 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Asti, Piedmont, Italy

$18-21 for 375ml

With the holidays, it’s bubble, bubble, bubble all the time. I’ve had Sekt, Cava, Champagne, Sparkling Icewine and BC bubble – all in the past week alone! I was going to write about a fine French Champagne for revelers to ring in 2010, but when I ran across this bottle in my cellar, I decided to write about a brunch bubble instead.

Why? For one, most partiers have no idea what they’re drinking by the time the clock strikes midnight, so why waste a good bottle of champers? And two – this wine is absolutely delicious! No, really – this is oceans away from the fizzy-fruit loop Asti Spumante of your youth. While both are crafted from the same grape variety (Muscat Blanc á Petits Grains), Moscato d’Asti is produced in much smaller quantities and with much higher regulations.

The result is a mid-sweet, slightly fizzy wine (frizzante) with orange blossom and ripe peach aromas and refreshing mandarin, peaches-and-cream and citrus notes on the palate. And thanks to its low alcohol content (5.5%), Moscato d’Asti can easily be enjoyed early in the day. Enjoy with your New Year’s Day brunch – or perhaps as your Hair of the Dog remedy.

*** and a half

**Trivia to impress your brunch mates: Frizzante [freet-TSAHN-teh] is an Italian term meaning "lightly sparkling", and describes wines with light effervescence. Frizzante wines are made with less pressure than those labeled spumante. Frizzante wines are equivalent to pétillant in France and spritzig in Germany.

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Fonseca Guimaraens

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Champagne and oysters, Pinot Noir and truffles - Christmas and Port? In my mind anyway, these are natural pairings. Much like rum and eggnog, I can’t quite imagine one without the other in my holidays.

Fonseca Guimaraens [fawn-SAY-kuh GIH-mah-rahns] is a classic port house, and whether you’ve been good, or very, very good this year might just determine which Fonseca bottle Santa picks up for you on his flight over Portugal’s Douro Valley.

First off – for the good: Fonseca 10 Year Old Tawny is a mainstay, and for good reason. With an average in-cask age of ten years, this wine has had enough time to smooth out the edges and transform into a complex, elegant elixir. Honeyed and rich with a walnut rancio nuttiness throughout, this port has a lot going for it - grippy tannins, seductive nose and a graceful finish. Fantastic value around the $20 mark for 375ml. Aged tawnys will not improve once bottled – all the more reason to drink right now! *** and a half

And for the very, very good: Fonseca Vintage Port 2007. 2007 was easily deemed worthy of a Vintage Port (only declared in above average vintages). The finest grapes and finest wines are selected and meticulously blended for maximum intensity, depth and aging potential. On average, this happens three times/decade at Fonseca – and 2007 is one of those blockbuster years. A highly potent nose of rich floral, cherry and chocolate leads to a voluptuous and dense sweet palate of spice, anise, tea, wild cherry, wood, dark chocolate and vanilla. Rich, seamlessly balanced with a lengthy fruit finish. Such a delight to drink – and will only improve over the next 10+ years. ****

Pair the tawny (liberally) throughout the holiday season with roasted nuts, dried fruits, hard milder cheeses or classic vanilla crème brûlée. A personal fave is tawny meets hazelnut torte. And for the 2007 Vintage Port? On its own, by the fire with a very special someone. Santa perhaps?

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

10 year old tawny - 3.5 stars

Vintage Port 2007 - 4 stars

—By Treve Ring, online wine editor

Sandhill Wines Small Lots Program Sangiovese 2006

Mon, 14 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Okanagan Valley

$30.00 – $32.00

Want to stump your buds at your next blind tasting? Bring this in your brown bag. This Sangiovese (the grape of Italy’s Chianti wines) was grown right here in BC – and is the only Sangiovese planting in the Okanagan (in Canada?) to date. Here it is blended with 12.5% Barbera to up the body and deepen the colour. Spicy black cherry and violet aromas lead to a earthy palate of pepper, herbs, anise, cedar and ripe cherries. The tannins are dark cocoa dry, the body is bantamweight and the finish is lengthy and elegant. Pair with Parmigiano Reggiano, crusty bread and tomato sauced polenta. *** and a half

Sandhill Winemaster Howard Soon is a legend in BC – and this year’s honour of Winery of the Year at the Canadian Wine Awards is a well deserved nod to a man and wine program that never compromises. His Small Lots program wines are cult favourites – all handcrafted on a small scale (only 644 of this Sangiovese vintage was produced) and snapped up quickly. www.sandhillwines.ca/

-by Treve Ring, online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Deinhard, Sparkling Diamant

Sun, 13 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

$4.25 – $4.75 for 200ml

Sure to be a hit at holiday parties, these cutie little single serving (who are they kidding? Pass me a case!) sparklers come in a 200ml aluminum bottle-can. Optimal for chilling quickly, packing in a purse, and of course, recycling, these distinctively packaged wines are designed for the ice bucket at your next soiree. The 100% Riesling, slightly effervescent sipper has fresh, large bubbles and flavours of crisp green apple and sweet candied peach. It finishes off-dry – and quickly – and is just plain fun to drink, especially when wearing a holiday sweater and munching on roasted nuts. Nothing serious here – but who wants a serious party anyway? **

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Joie PTG 2007

Fri, 4 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

BC | $30.00-32.00

Go figure. These two could make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. Passetoutegrain, a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay, is not exactly the belle of the Beaune, but boy does this wine hit all the right buttons. PTG combines the best attributes of both partners. It is medium bodied with ripe cherry, spice and smoke flavours, a silky smooth texture and a long persistent finish. Very highly recommended! www.joie.ca

- Reviewed by Larry Arnold

Tantalus Vineyards Riesling 2008

Sat, 28 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Okanagan Valley, BC

$22.90 - $25.00

When a little ol’ wine from little ol’ BC garners acclaim from one of the world’s leading wine authors, authorities and palates, it’s pretty freaking impressive. This past summer, Jancis Robinson, the author of Oxford Companion to Wine aka "the greatest wine book ever published” visited BC, and had this to say about the Tantalus Riesling 2008 (one of her top 10 Canadian wine picks):

“Truly outstanding. Very pure, fine Riesling aromas. Great spread of tight but not austere character across the palate. Great balance and length. This one should run and run.”

It’s easy to understand her enthusiasm. Vibrant citrus, green apple and fresh melon flavours, with juicy acidity, focused concentration and a lengthy finish make this wine a true pleasure to drink. Without a doubt, one of BC’s best wines. Long, cool fermentation has prolonged the fresh, crisp fruit – this Riesling is crafted from the 2nd press of the free run juice that makes up their Old Vine Riesling.

When I was up in the Okanagan this past September, I bought a case of this Riesling to drink now – plus a few bottles of the Old Vine Riesling to lay down for 3-5 years. The Tantalus Winery of my visit will look vastly different from the Tantalus of today. A brand-new ultra modern and architecturally stunning winery and tasting room were nearing completion when I visited, and I had the unexpected pleasure of a tour from winery GM (and jack of all trades) Jane Hatch. Jane, who I’m sure had a gazillion things going on preparing for harvest, graciously took the time to show us the stunning new 12,000 sq. ft building – LEED certified (BC’s first LEED winery) and window heavy – taking advantage of the view over their vines on the hillside below but also to maximize natural light whenever possible. One entire glass wall of the tasting room has been made to open, blurring the lines between inner and outer vineyard experience. There are also windows between the raised tasting room, and the tank room, allowing visitors to see production in process and become connected to the process. ****

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2009

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Beaujolias, Burgundy, France

$14.35

Beaujolias Nouveau is always released worldwide on the third Thursday of November. This seemingly strange ritual began over a century ago as a way for the French to have instant wines to celebrate the holidays with vineyard workers and their families – and to thank them for the recent harvest. Unlike the vast majority of red wines, which take months from picking to completion, Beaujolais Nouveau uses carbonic maceration, resulting in fast, drinkable wine within weeks. Th e grapes are always 100% Gamay, and though each vintage is different (the 2009 is said to be the finest in the past 50 years), the finished wine is always a light bodied, very fruity and fun, non-serious sipper.

The same goes for this year. And this wine, by ‘The King of Beaujolais’ Duboeuf is exactly what one would expect. The biggest surprise from Georges Duboeuf is what new label he is going to select for each Nouveau vintage. Light hued and bodied, with candied gummy fruit aromas and crisp flavours of cherry, violets, dry raspberry and cinnamon. Best drunk slightly chilled – an ideal accompaniment to a turkey-cran sandwich or as a pick me up after holiday shopping.

** and a half

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Bodegas Ostatu Crianza 2006

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Rioja Alavesa DOC, Spain

$24.99

Aromas of spice, soft cinnamon, blackberry and a whiff of violets lead to smooth and lush dark berry, vanilla, and ripe plum, with a pleasing current of minerality throughout. Sophisticated and new-worldly styled Rioja. With roasted pork loin sided with cherry compote, this will be a knockout.

Rioja Alavesa is the smallest of three sub-regions of Rioja region. Its higher altitude and cooler temperature allows the grapes to achieve moderate acidity, and the soils of the vineyards are rich in clay and limestone, contributing to the mineral tones present in many of the wines from here.

***

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Lillet Blanc

Sat, 7 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Podensac, France

$19.99

This weekend’s Art of the Cocktail got me thinking to my own small-yet-mighty home cocktail bar selections. While Lillet Blanc is generally sipped on its own as an aperitif, I’ve taken a shine to having it on hand for cocktails as well (my Vesper recipe below). Lillet [Lee-Lay] is an aromatized wine, from a blend of wine, liqueurs, fruits and herbs. The ‘aromatized’ moniker comes from the infusion of the flavouring agents, which have been a carefully guarded secret since 1887. This was the birth of Lillet, and it has been made continually since, in the village of Podensac, 20 miles south of Bordeaux. Subtle apricots, sweet candied orange and honey aromas lead to an off dry, subtly bitter palate with perfumed citrus, earthiness and orange oils. A long, lingering, balanced orange finish just begs for a second glass.

As mentioned above, classically Lillet is served as an aperitif, over ice, with an orange twist. 007’s bevvy of choice was the Vesper – so if it’s good enough for him… Shaken, not stirred: 1 part Vodka, 3 parts Gin, 1 part Lillet Blanc. Garnish with a lemon twist and pass the roasted almonds.

—By Treve Ring

Albino Armani Claps Cabernet Franc 2007

Thu, 5 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Friuli – Grave – DOC

$19.99

I have a love/hate relationship with Cabernet Franc. When the grape is treated gently – letting the spicy, herbal, bright fruit shine – I love. But when, as is much more oft the case, the vintner throws a big stack of wood at it and turning it into a smoky firebomb – I hate. Thus, I’m always leary to try new Cab Francs – do I dare? But this wine has restored my faith in this wonderful grape – for the time being at least – and while I can still find it on the shelves.

The Armani family has been handcrafting wines in northeastern Italy for over 400 years, now encompassing large estates in Veneto, Trentino and Friuli. This Friulian Cab Franc – like its surrounding inhabitants – is proudly without compromise. No oak bombs here. Bright, pale red in hue, a spicy cherry nose entices to a medium bodied palate of raspberry, cassis, herbs, hay and white pepper. Lovely finesse and balance – pair with roast poultry, game or sausages. This grape thrives in the cool, marginal climate of Friuli. If only BC winemakers would strive for Cab Franc with this finesse and honesty, as opposed to the hot, charred wines so many churn out. For $20 – this is a steal. Just don’t buy it all off our shelves before I get a chance to get some more.

*** and a half

- Treve Ring, online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Flechas de los Andes Gran Malbec 2006

Wed, 4 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Argentina $33.00-36.00

This monster from Mendoza will put paid to all those who doubt the potential of Malbec from Argentina not to mention Kosher wine from the planet. Flechas de los Andes is a joint venture between Baron Benjamin de Rothschild and Laurent Dassault, one of the orginal partners in Michel Rolland’s Clos de los Siete project. Coming in at a whopping 15.5% alcohol this incredible Ǖber-Malbec is black as pitch and as dense as a dwarf star. Super concentrated, with black cherry, pepper and earth aromas, this brute will stain the crystal, not to mention everything else it comes into contact with. It does not let up on the palate, au contraire, my pasty little friends; the dense fruit flavours come at your genteel unsuspecting palate in unrelenting waves of deliciousness. Oh, did I say 15.5% Well you would never know it; smooth as your baby’s bottom, with a mind blowing finish! Very tasty but avoid spillage!

Reviewed by Larry Arnold

Laughing Stock Vineyards Portfolio 2007

Tue, 27 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

&nbs

Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley

$40.00

In light of the recent worldly financial markets, it can be difficult to gauge whether to Buy! Hold! Cellar! Laughing Stock’s Portfolio. Do you quaff it now, enjoying the thoroughly ready-to-drink big Bordeaux-styled red? Or do you lie it down for a couple of years, hoping your asset pays off? Either way, this one is a winning investment.

Luckily, Laughing Stock owners, winemakers and founders David and Cynthia Enns didn’t get the memo that BC can’t produce big reds. Thus, their aim to produce the highest quality small production wines from the Valley was a high risk stock that has paid off in spades. Again with the 2007 vintage, all five classic Bx varietals are used here: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The result is a richly textured, very structured sipper. Big dark berry fruit, smooth vanilla and dark cocoa blend seamlessly to the finish. And if you can wait, you’ll be richly rewarded, as this will prove even more plush and elegant in 6-8 years time.

*** 3 stars now (but I’ll bet the bank on 3.5 stars in a few years time)

Reviewed by Treve Ring, EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Weingut Rudolf Rabl Grüner Veltliner Spiegel 2006

Tue, 20 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Kamptal, Austria

$19.95

Does our Wet Coast weather leave you in a funk? Not feeling groovy? One easy way to let a little sunshine in is with a bottle of this fresh and fabulous Grüner Veltliner [GROO-ner FELT-lih-ner] a.k.a. GV or GruVee. Clean, stunningly bright nose of citrus, minerals and apples leads to a crisp palate with lemon-lime and nectarine fruit, floral notes, and a tart finish. Medium bodied, with a wafting hint of satisfying honey sweetness and racy acidity, GV makes for a very friendly food wine. From spring rolls to shellfish to sushi to creamy cheeses, – or just enjoy solo and feel the rainclouds melt away. GV is synonymous with Austria, where it has been cultivated since Roman times. It is also planted in Hungary, The Czech Republic, Slovakia and Slovenia. It is also called Grünmuskateller and Veltlini, as well as simply Grüner.

*** and a half

Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Compendium 2006

Wed, 14 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Mission Hill Family Estate Winery – Compendium 2006

Osoyoos & Oliver, Okanagan Valley, BC

$40.00

Part of Mission Hill’s ultra-premium Legacy Series, this inaugural release is a little brother to heavy hitter Oculus.

They have the same genes - both crafted from the same grapes (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot), and high attention to detail (designated block, hand sorted, gravity filled, small French oak fermented, etc.). But while Oculus is designed to peak over the next 10 years or so, Compendium is pretty much good to go now. Which isn’t to say that this wine won’t improve with a couple of years too – it will – it’s just that with the spicy herbed cedar and dark raspberry aromas, and the lovely deep flavours of savoury tobacco, cocoa, gravel and raspberry, this wine is delish enough to finish off right now. Smooth, fine tannins and a lengthy juicy finish make this little brother very approachable. It was a standout for me at a recent Legacy Series tasting – the stars all over my tasting book proving that Compendium is a great addition to an already impressive lineup.

Drink this Bordeaux blend now while Oculus sits in your cellar.

*** and a half

- Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Segura Viudas Lavit Rosado Brut NV

Fri, 9 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Thanksgiving weekend. The turkey is ordered, the shopping is done, the inlaws are en route – you’re going to need wine. And with so many other decisions to ponder this weekend (sausage vs wild rice stuffing, ham vs. turkey, pumpkin vs. pecan pie), let me make your wine choice easy for you. Bubbly. Pink bubbly at that.

Versatile enough to service turkey, ham or vegetarian (sorry Tofurky lovers – I don’t think anything can help you), plus the cornucopia of side dishes that this holiday brings. This Rosado (rosé) is fruitier and creamier than the standard Segura Viudas Brut (one of the top cava on this market). Pale salmon in hue, this Trepat-Monastrell-Garnacha blend has fresh, minerally raspberry aromas and a palate of nuts, citrus, bright cherry, pomegranate and wild strawberry. Nice fruit sweetness makes this appealing to a wide audience, and sparkling always makes an occasion more festive – stock up. ***

* Trepat is a rarely seen black grape variety, used primarily for rosé cava and grown in the Tarragona and Penedès area of Catalonia, in North East Spain.

- Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Quails’ Gate – Tawny NV

Sun, 4 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Okanagan Valley

$30.00 for 375ml

I had a great tasting at Quails’ Gate recently, and while I could easily write on multiple QG wines, this column is called WINE (sing. not plu.) of the Week for a reason. Hmm – so how to chose? There’s the floral-meets-green apple crisp Chenin Blanc 2008 (the 2007 vintage was the only white wine served to Obama during his Ottawa visit earlier this year), and the Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 (an incredibly smooth, refined and earthily elegant wine).

Well, this little fortified beauty was 8 years in the making, only 800 cases were released last year, and the next time the cycle comes around won’t be for another few years. So that’s reason enough! Call to action – try now!

Plus the fact that this very unusual wine has stuck in my mind for over a week – and has me kicking myself for not picking up a bottle for my cellar. Started in 2000, this 100% Gamay Noir was fortified with spirit and carefully cellar aged in French oak for 60-84 months. Pointed aromas of orange oil, rancio and aged cedar lead to silky and rich butterscotch, honeyed citrus, candied fruit and herbs. Nice acid throughout, with medium sweetness (I’d guess 5 on the sweetness scale) and light tannins. This wine will continue to gain complexity over the next few years and would be delightful with roasted nuts and dried Okanagan fruit. And if you don’t buy some soon – don’t say I didn’t warn you. ***

- Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Viña Errazuriz Chardonnay Wild Ferment 2007

Sat, 26 Sep 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Casablanca Valley, Aconcagua, Chile

$22.00

Monday, September 28th is the annual Wines of Chile tasting event in Vancouver. 30 Chilean wineries will be represented – including Viña Errazuriz, one of Chile’s most lauded and respected. And it’s no wonder – they’ve had lots of time to perfect their skills. Don Maximiano Errazuriz founded the winery more than 128 years ago – in 1870!

This Chardonnay is named ‘Wild Ferment’ because of the use of a natural or ‘wild yeast’ ferment. Instead of adding packaged yeast, the pressed juice is allowed to slowly ferment in stainless steel with the indigenous vineyard yeasts in the area. The result is a complex aroma of spiced apple, pear and toasty lees. These notes are echoed in the rich, medium bodied palate, along with honey, mineral, herbs, nectarine skin and ashy lees. The mouthfeel is creamy, yet it finishes crisp. Very unique and different. Try with a seafood risotto. ***

Check out www.ccltd.ca/winesofchile for details on next week’s Wines of Chile tasting and dinner event.

Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Chateau Mourgues du Gres - Les Galets Rouges 2007

Mon, 21 Sep 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Costieres de Nimes AC, France

$18.99 BCLS

I love, love, love it when I find a wine that drinks way beyond its price point. So I was pretty happy when I tried this little gem. This blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and old vine Carignan is from the Southern part of the Rhône Valley, and the vineyards are a few short miles from the Rhône River. The wine takes its name from the numerous galets – round, flat stones – that make up the terrain. And the minerality of the region comes through in the flavours of this wine, along with aromatic ripe, dark fruit, waves of floral notes, cocoa and peppery spice.

Nice acidity throughout with a full body and lingering and satisfying finish. Tastes much more expensive than it is. Lovely to drink now – especially with braised meats or sausages – but will continue to gain complexity over the next couple of years. Bring on fall! ****

Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Château des Charmes Chardonnay Musqué 2007

Mon, 14 Sep 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

$18.99 BCLS

You don’t see too many Niagara wines in the BC market - in fact, in this province it’s easy to forget that BC isn’t the centre of the Canadian winemaking universe (sorry!). This is proof positive that our Eastern kin are excelling at expressing their terroir as well. Château des Charmes is one of the larger wineries in Niagara, and founder Paul Bosc pioneered this unique Chardonnay clone in the Niagara Peninsula. The area now excels at Musqué, the unique grape being well suited to the soils and climate. This full-bodied charmer is unoaked, allowing the ripe fruit flavours to shine. Aromatic honeysuckle and spice lead to tangy citrus and sweet, zippy melon-apple flavours. This lush white has an intoxicating spice quality (white pepper?), lovely honeyed texture throughout, and a nice lengthy finish. Pair with poultry or lighter pork dishes and spice-roasted squash – perfect for fall. *** and a half

By Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Sokol Blosser 2006 Pinot Noir

Thu, 10 Sep 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Darryl Lamb, Manager of Firefly Fine Wines and Ales in Vancouver shares this pick —and a good story to go with it:

"Sokol Blosser is a beautiful 72 acre winery located in the heart of Oregon’s world famous Willamette Valley in the rolling Dundee Hills. I just recently visited in the spring and absolutely fell in love with their 2006 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir.

The Vineyard is in immaculate condition and organic farming practices are rigidly enforced by the USDA which has certified the vineyard organic since 2005. Sokol Blosser’s vineyards also use solar power for 33% of its power needs.

The 2006 Pinot Noir is an excellent wine. Rich and textured, its nose is perfect Oregon Pinot Noir. It has earth and berry notes with just a hint of truffle. The wine was aged for 16 months in new and used French barrel. This wine should cellar quite nicely over the next five years.

My fiancé and I just had a bottle paired with beef tenderloin and it was magical. This wine has the body for soft tender beef and the more subtle forest floor flavours in the wine shone through when combined with the savoury flavours of the meat.

We carry the 2006 vintage at Firefly Fine Wines and Ales which is located in the Plaza 500 complex on Cambie and 12th right next door to Figmint Restaurant. We are open from 10 am to 11pm each and every day including holidays."

SKU# 608786

Firefly Fine Wines and Ales: 604-875-3325, www.fireflyfinewinesandales.com

Pentâge Winery 2008 Gewurztraminer

Wed, 2 Sep 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Wine writer Treve Ring assesses two Okanagan recent releases - one white, one red - from Pentâge Winery. Here is the white.

Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie’s boutique Pentâge Winery www.pentage.com rests on 35 acres along Penticton’s Skaha Lake. Production is limited to only 5000 cases a year, and their small-lot releases sell out quickly. Their newest vineyard, monikered ‘The Dirty Dozen’ was planted three years ago – and wine watchers (me!) are eagerly awaiting the first wines from the Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Petite Syrah, Zinfandel, Malbec, Mourvedre, Grenache and Tempranillo planted there.

Their current releases (9 whites and 7 reds annually) are from their first vineyard, planted in 1997. And what lovely wines are being handcrafted from these 10 year old vines. The perfumed aromas of the 2008 Gewurztraminer ($18) skyrocket out of the glass – lush lychee and grapefruit notes lead to a palate of ripe sweet apricot, citrus and mineral, a full, rounded mouthfeel and a lengthy finish. Though there is a lot of fruit sweetness here, the wine finishes dry and crisp – delish. ***

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Pentâge Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc

Tue, 1 Sep 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Wine writer Treve Ring assesses two Okanagan recent releases - one white, one red - from Pentâge Winery. Here is the red wine.

Their current Cabernet Franc is from 2006 ($28). This is one of my favourite Okanagan varietals when treated correctly – and this one certainly qualifies. Notes of wild cherries, ripe plum and spice are echoed on the palate, along with blackberry, cedar and vanillan notes. A full palate and long finish made this wine very enjoyable now, though I’d like to keep a bottle or two around to taste in a few years – there is enough textured structure here to keep evolving.

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Tribute, Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, BC VQA Okanagan, Method Classique

Fri, 28 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT

EAT editor Gary Hynes chooses this week's pick:

"In my humble opinion I don’t think we drink nearly enough bubbly in our fair province. Which is a pity since we’re so good at making the stuff. Champagne and sparkling wines are certainly an excellent choice for celebrations but they also go well with just about any food you care to serve at your table. Here’s my pitch to pop a cork of BC sparkling wine more often.

Sumac Ridge is the Summerland winery known for producing Steller’s Jay Brut, one of BC’s best sparkling wines—so they know a thing or two about bubbles. Tribute is their new non-vintage, 100% chardonnay bubbly created to commemorate and celebrate the Vancouver 2010 Olympics. Made in the traditional method with secondary fermentation in the bottle, the wine is easy-to-drink and focuses on clean, fresh lemony flavours and apple aromas. It possesses enough acidity to carry off a pairing with spot prawns, oysters or sole in a beurre blanc sauce. Let the games begin."

$30 in BC, available nationally in the fall
www.sumacridge.com

Tomas Cusine Vilosell 2006

Wed, 19 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Jill Krauss from the Strath shares this favourite with EAT:

"I am on a huge Spanish wine kick right now and this one is truly exceptional. The Vilosell is a blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah and it has a beautiful deep red color. The nose is full of black cherry, leather, and currents with fresh cherries, huckleberry, and chocolate on the palate. This is a rich and well structured wine that calls out for a nice grilled steak as we move closer to the end of summer. This guy retails for about $32.00."

2008 The Good Hope Winery, Chenin Blanc, South Africa

Fri, 31 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT

The women of housewine, Michaela and Michelle this summer respite:

"The relentless beating of the sun demands something crisp and refreshing in return. South Africa is our secret weapon to stay cool. Good Hope Winery’s Chenin Blanc is a perennial favourite and we’re especially excited about the 2008 vintage. Delectable flavours of citrus work like a charm with salads of all kind or drink as an aperitif by the pool."

$13.99 (BC CSPC # 792143)

Nichol Vineyard Estate Pinot Gris 2007

Mon, 27 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Russell Gelling manager at the 6 Mile Liquor Store shares this summer favourite with us:

"Salmon is not just a BC fish. This salmon coloured pinot gris has had just the right amount of skin contact to boost the body with added fruit flavours of peach, berry and stone fruits. Added mineral and citrus notes on the finish only make this wine even more complex. The winemaker also voided the harsh tannins that some roses show, leaving us with a clean fresh summer patio wine. Drink with your favourite BC coastal shellfish or citrus grilled salmon."

Now available in select retailers.

Meyer Family "Tribute" Chardonnay 2007

Thu, 16 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Greg Hays from Cafe Brio shares this pick:

Although this is only their second, the Meyers have crafted what must surely be one of the finest Chardonnays in Canada, and this is just their entry level Chard. They also make a "Micro Cuvee" that is mind boggling for $65. The vineyard has a northerly aspect which allows the grapes to mature gracefully rather than quickly. The long, slow ripening process results in grapes with a vast spectrum of flavours and an elegant minerality. More closely resembling Burgundy than Napa, it has an intense nose with hints of wood smoke, citrus, melon and peach. Quite dry on the palate with attractive weight in a medium to full-bodied style and marked by a streak of refreshing acidity. Beautifully balanced with a long, lovely finish. Outstanding B.C. Chardonnay. $30 from the winery,
3.1 acres producing only 330 cases.

Click here to visist the Meyer Family Vineyard online.

2006 Vinoterra Winery Kisi

Tue, 7 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Farmstead Wines creator Anthony Nicalo knows a thing or two about sniffing out a good wine. This week he shares a rare favourite with EAT readers:

"Kisi is an indigenous white-grape varietal grown predominantly in eastern Georgia. This wine is fermented in clay amphora and aged in oak. Slightly oxidized and a lovely amber colour with dried stonefruit and a minty-lemon balm thing going on. When I am not drinking a Farmstead wine, I look for really interesting, offbeat wines that are sometimes hit or miss, but always very intruiging and complex. This particular bottle is probably impossible to find in BC (look for it when you are in Seattle or shopping online for wine to send to your Pt. Roberts mailbox). To encourage agents to bring really unique, interesting wines to BC, the next time you find yourself in a great wine shop, ask for something unusual, esoteric or even weird. Neil, Matt and the folks at Kitsilano Wine Cellars are awesome at pointing at something delicious that even the most ardent wine-lovers may have overlooked."

Click here to read Julie Pegg's profile of Anthony Nicalo in our Food Heroes section.

Foxtrot Pinot Noir 2005

Thu, 2 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Natalie King, Director of Food & Beverage at The Sidney Pier Hotel and Spa sends us this recommendation:

"This is an absolutely superb example of BC Pinot Noir. It is a deeply coloured wine with an intense nose of cherry & spice. It is so silky smooth in the mouth, with satisfying and rich berry flavours and an oaky spiciness. So well balanced and nice long finish to savour. Although tough to find (I think it is only available in fine restaurants in BC), it is worth the hunt to enjoy it with a great meal. Our service team loves selling it; although it is a bit pricey, customers are always impressed and very satisfied with the recommendation."

St. Hubertus Frizzante Rose

Mon, 29 Jun 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Tristan Gill from Mattick's Farm VQA shares this current favourite with EAT readers:

"From Kelowna's St. Hubertus and Oak Bay Vineyards, this effervescent rose is truly Summer in a glass. Light berry notes combine with a subtle sparkle to create the ultimate patio wine. This versatile wine can be served chilled on its own or as an aperitif. Furthermore it will make the perfect compliment for grilled halibut or salmon and a mixed green salad. This unique wine is a fabulous value at under $16."

Averill Creek 2006 Pinot Noir

Wed, 17 Jun 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Rich Massey from the Galiano Inn sends us this pick:

“My choice for wine of the week hails from a small gravity flow winery in the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island.

As our restaurant is a showcase for local products from small farms it’s only natural to pair with wines made from fruit grown under the same climatic conditions. The Averill Creek 2006 Pinot Noir is a testament to the powerful illustrations of how local wine not only compliments but also enhances the taste of regional food.

I love this pinot as it shows much more than just typical cherry fruit; it speaks terroir straight from its delicious soul. A rich hue to the eyes complemented with an appealing velvety texture on the palate. Expect a food friendly seam of acidity with minerality and earthy aspects highlighted by generous amounts of leather and cedar embraced with soft smoke and hints of tobacco.

Pair with lamb or poultry but this vino truly shines with grilled salmon on a warm cedar plank.”

Wild Goose Pinot Gris

Sat, 13 Jun 2009 00:00:00 GMT

This pick comes from Colleen Kennaird at The Local Liquor Store on Salt Spring Island:

“This is a fabulous Pinot Gris, lightly golden in colour, has lively peach and pear flavours with a crisp finish. Always consistent, never disappointing from year to year. Great value for the superior wine in the bottle. I love it all year round. Great to always have a bottle in my fridge.” CSPC# 536227

2006 De Angelis, Rosso Piceno DOC, Italy

Wed, 3 Jun 2009 00:00:00 GMT

The barbeque friendly weather has carnivores everywhere rejoicing. What’s tastier than a succulent piece of grilled red meat? Devouring it al fresco with a delicious bottle of wine. You can count on Italy for interesting finds at a great price. From the region of Marche, De Angelis’ Rosso Piceno blends Montepulciano with Sangiovese. Slightly earthy yet packed with fruit, this juicy red will wash down whatever meat hits your grill.

$14.99 (BC CSPC #632141)

2008 Bird in Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir

Thu, 28 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Jill Krauss of The Strath Ale, Wine, and Spirit Merchants writes:

"My choice is the 2008 Bird in Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir from Adelaide Hills, Australia. These bubbles have a beautiful light pink colour with really pretty, fine beading. It is an amazing summer treat —perfect for brunch or hanging out on a patio in the sunshine. Crisp and fruity with delicious strawberry notes on both the nose and the palate, it's followed by a light floral quality and a clean, but long lasting, off-dry finish. This wine is well balanced and simple yet subtle, a refreshing approach for an Australian wine. I would rather not admit how much of this I have consumed!

Sku: 387951, $31.95

2006 Laura Hartwig Cabernet from Chile

Fri, 15 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Andrew Melville of Marquis Wine Cellars chooses this wine for EAT's readers:

“Perhaps the greatest deal on a Cabernet Sauvignon in the market is the Laura Hartwig. A fuller-bodied wine, the Laura Hartwig has distinct aromas of blackberry, cedar and a touch of menthol. The palette is decidedly juicy, with a great mouthfeel and chewy tannins. Approachable and highly delicious now, this wine would make a great started wine for a cellar as it will age gracefully for many years to come.”

CSPC# 185264, $18.90.

Espelt 2005 Vidivi (Garnacha Merlot)

Wed, 13 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Glenn Barlow of BC Liquor Guys recommends this wine from Spain, just in time for grilling season:

"Flavours of ripe cherry & berry, with black olive & tobacco leaf aromas that are super juicy on the palate. This one's a BBQ baby!" $20, available at most liquor stores.

Howling Bluff Sauvignon Blanc 08

Fri, 1 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Doug Russell from Smugglers Cove Liquor Store shares this current favourite: "The Howling Bluff Sauvignon Blanc 08 from Naramata Bench is a blend of saugvignon blanc and semillon with an earthy, mineral characteristic. Flavours of guava and passion fruit intermingled with citrus. It's enjoyable now, but will also reward a cellaring of five years." $18.99

Click here to for Howling Bluff's website.

The Joie 2008 Rose

Tue, 28 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Russell Gelling of 6 Mile Liquor Store shares this current favourite with EAT's online readers:

"This is the perfect summer wine. A rose with a difference, this vintage is much deeper in colour then most including previous vintages from joie and is a blend of four grape varieties. By blending Pinot Noir, Gamay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris they have given life to a mid-pallet rose with huge flavours of strawberry, rhubarb, cherry and spice and just a slight sweetness. This vintage is perfection and will be hard to repeat so buy if you see it."

Available in select liquor stores. CSPC +551469 Price $20.90-$25.00. For more information about Joie Farm wines, click here.

Image: Joie Farmer planting by hand, from the Joie Farm website.

Road 13 Vineyards Merlot

Tue, 21 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Beth Crawford from the Mattick's Farm VQA sends us this wine pick:

"Road 13 (formerly known as Golden Mile Cellars) is a "Prince" of a winery. The packaging looks completely different, but Michael Bartier and his Assistant Bailey are consistent in their production of kick-ass wines. This gold medal winning Merlot is full of dark fruit flavours augmented by just the right amount of oak. It is a wine that is robust and flavourful and has great length to the finish. I knew that I liked this wine, but forgot how much until I tried it again recently! You won't be disappointed."

Franz Hass ‘Kris’ Pinot Grigio delle Venezie IGT, Italy

Tue, 14 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris of housewine send this seasonal wine pick.

"The sun has been shining, the days are getting longer and the crocuses are in bloom. Spring has officially arrived so we can wear white shoes and drink white wine. We are definitely in our happy place, especially with a glass of Kris Pinot Grigio. Its fresh lush and juicy flavours of lime and lemon make it a perfect partner to salads or your favourite seafood pasta. It will cheer you up even if it is rainy outside."

$21.99 (BCLDB #151860)

Stay tuned to our bulletin board for housewine events and click here to learn more about their winetastings and other services.

Tinhorn Creek Merlot 05, BC

Mon, 6 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Larry Arnold, wine columnist for EAT shares this current favourite.

“There is a lot going on here, with layers of spicy oak, licorice, sage and ripe cherry fruit on the nose. Medium-bodied with supple fruit flavours, nicely balanced with a blush of soft tannins. Sounds pretty good, tastes even better!”

Widely available at VQA, private and government stores. $19.00-22.00
Check out their website at www.tinhorn.com

2006 Jackson Triggs Shiraz, private reserve

Tue, 31 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Mike Sly from Mattick's Farm VQA shares this current favourite with EAT: "The Jackson Triggs Shiraz private reserve won a gold medal at last year's Okanagan Wine Festival. Bright forward fruit with the best qualities an Aussie Chiraz and the Rhone. Nice savoury finish." $19.99. CSPC# 593103.

2006 Pedrosa Cepa Gavilán

Mon, 23 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Kevin McKinnon of Marquis Wine Cellars pulls one of the shelf for us: "It’s not often that I call a $30.00 wine a deal, but this wine reinforces what I love about the wine industry. Focussed and flavourful wines that over deliver on the nose and palate. This 100% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) spends 12 months in barrel. There is a dark garnet colour that precursors all that is to come. Waves of chocolate, vanilla, and black fruits aromas will tantalize your olfactory senses. Next you will be hit with silky smooth tannins, refined layers of black fruit, oak and minerality. Well balanced with the perfect amount of acidity and a long memorable finish. I can imagine this rich complex beauty going well with game dishes, tomato based dishes or even rack of lamb. Salud!" Available at Marquis Wine Cellars.

2008 Quails' Gate Chasselas/Pinot Blanc/Pinot Gris

Fri, 13 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Bruce Stuart, owner of The Wine Barrel at 644 Broughton St. looks ahead to warmer weather with this wine pick: "This off dry white blend has good crisp acidity that makes it an absolute classic summer wine. Pair it with food or just with a glass. Priced at $16.99 and available at all three of Greater Victoria's VQA BC Wine Stores."

Le Paradou Cotes Du Luberon Rouge 07

Wed, 11 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Gamey, earthy, plumy, however you call it, Le Paradou is just plain delicious. This juicy blend of Grenache and Syrah from the south of France, near Provence is estate grown from forty to sixty year old vines and never sees a lick of wood. Dense and full-bodied with sweet black fruit, spice and mineral flavours, a soft silky texture and a long sumptuous finish. Available at most private liquor stores for $16.00, #12724

Pinot Blanc, Leon Manbach, Alsace

Mon, 2 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Glenn Barlow from the BC Liquor Guys in Cook St. Village sends this pick to EAT readers: "We just got a nice little Pinot Blanc in from Leon Manbach, Alsace for $18. It's spicy and aromatic with a rich orange zest finish." Available at private BC wine and liquor stores CSPC# 335141.

2004 Three Drops Cabernets from Mt. Barker Western Australia

Mon, 23 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Marlisa Beadle of uber hip Stage wine bar in Fernwood suggests the 2004 Three Drops Cabernets from Mt. Barker region in Western Australia: "It is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cab Franc. It is hard to find a wine from Oz with any age to it like this one. It even has the telltale bricky colour indicating it is getting older and softer and screwcap as well. Soft Blackberry fruit from the Cab Sauv and slight herbacousness from the Cab Franc make this a very interesting standout wine. The cool harvest that year does not give any hint of Aussie fruit bomb or huge alcohol. It has a lot of finesse, think Bordeaux even."

Beau Vigne Juliet Napa Cab 2005

Wed, 11 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Janis Goard, wine director & sr. restaurants manager at
Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort & Spa shares this wine pick:

It was the Napa Cab that changed my mind about Napa Cabs. It has all the fruit and concentration you would expect, but is so beautifully balanced with lots of earthy tobacco leaf, ripe cherry, plum, cocoa, blackberry, and a host of other black fruits. It has a lovely gentle spice that lies on your palate to a lengthy finish. For such a young wine it was a bit of a surprise to find it so well integrated, and I think it will be enjoyed for years to come.

Winemaker: Dave Phinney (also makes the Prisoner and Mercury Head, trained at Opus One and Whitehall Lane, a definite rising star)
The 2005 Juliet is a blend of 96% cab, 2% petit verdot, 2% malbec
Vineyard: 1350 ft up on Atlas Peak above Stag's Leap in the Foss Valley.

2006 Tormaresca ‘Paiara’ Puglia IGT, Italy

Mon, 2 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Michaela and Michelle of house wine pick this week's wine, an earthy red from Southern Italy.

The southern Italian region of Puglia gives us one of the best value reds for money currently on Liquor Store shelves. Tormaresca’s Paiara enhances indigenous grape Negroamaro with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon for a very approachable glass (or two) of wine. Rustic and earthy with blackberry and exotic spice notes, it would pair marvellously with Lamb Tagine.

$11.99 (BC CSPC #378182)

Peller Estates 2007 Cabernet Franc, Family Series, VQA

Mon, 26 Jan 2009 00:00:00 GMT

From British Columbia’s Okanagan comes this easy-drinking, mid-week red. Priced at a manageable $14.95, it is a good introduction to the under-appreciated Cabernet Franc grape. In the Old World Cab Franc is used as part of the classic Bordeaux blend or Meritage as it is often referred to in the New World. It also appears as a single varietal in the Loire region of northern France, where it can become stunning Chinon in a warm year. But it is in the New World that Cab Franc really shows promise and a number of BC wineries have begun making wines from Can Franc that are well worth drinking.

Bright red in colour, this wine opens with expressive fresh cherry and raspberry and a backdrop of wood smoke and green pepper. The follow-up swallow might be straightforward but there’s enough juicy fruit, acid and a touch of tannin to make this a lovely food-friendly wine. Give it a bit of time after uncorking to let the flavours develop and try it with slow-braised beef chuck steaks (I did mine in a crock-pot) and you’ll have an affordable Wednesday dinner has never tasted so good.

Montes Winery

Fri, 9 Jan 2009 00:00:00 GMT

This week's wine pick comes from EAT editor Gary Hynes:

In the depths of a BC winter, nothing is more warming than a bold red from a hot climate. Aurelio Montes, co-founder and winemaker of the Montes Winery in Chile has been traveling around BC pouring samples of his award-winning wines for interested consumers.

At a price that barely nudges the twenty-dollar mark, Montes 2007 Cab-Carmenere (+603530) beat my January blues. Tasted at SIPS, a new wine bar in James Bay, it showed powerful, spicy flavours from the ripe Carmenère grape tempered with classic cigar box Bordeaux style and a long, full-bodied finish. Aurelio referred to this wine as the wine he most often drinks at home.

Other Montes wines worth a try is their signature 100% cabernet sauvignon Alpha (+32258) an intense, opulent and silky, well-balanced red that helped put Chile on the map. The bargain of the evening at $16.05 was the smooth 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (+464479) showing pretty flavours of cinnamon and mint in a medium-full body. These and other Montes wines are readily available at private wine stores around the province.

Photo: Montes winemaker Aurelio Montes

Double Hophead IPA from Tree Brewing

Mon, 15 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

For those who love a 'hoppy' beer, the new Double Hophead IPA from Tree Brewing has nailed a perfect balance of hop and malt with an 8% alcohol kick. A strong beer, it pairs best with hefty flavours. Take a look in our recipe section for a grilled rack of lamb recipe that suits the Double Hophead deliciously. Available in BC liquor stores for a limited time only.

2008 Cono Sur, Viognier, Chile

Thu, 11 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Michelle Bouffard, co-owner and certified sommelier at house wine in Vancouver makes this timely wine choice:

The market might be down but there is no reason why you should stop drinking wine. There are plenty of great values to be had. The Cono Sur Viognier is our latest find. Intrinsically Viognier with vibrant white peach and ginger aromas. Its juicy flavours will leave your palate refreshed and begging for another sip. A great wine to bring to parties during the holidays and a great match with Turkey. $10.99 (BC CSPC# 566836)

Read more of Michelle's great ideas on wine at www.housewine.ca

The Bear, Fairview Cellars, Okanagan, BC

Mon, 1 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Beth Crawford of the VQA Store at Mattick's Farm picks this week's wine:

This is a wonderful Bordeaux blend red from Bill Eggert's eight-acre vineyard in Oliver. Bill's techniques in the vineyard and in the cellar produce a mouth filling, fruitdriven, nicely balanced, full bodied red. Perfect for these dark evenings curled up by the fire and a great companion to rich beef dishes like tenderloin.

(Bill Eggert of Fairview Cellars in photo).

The Mandrarossa Fiano 2007 from Sicily

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Ceri Barlow from Zambri's picks this wine as her current favourite: The Mandrarossa Fiano 2007 from Sicily is a native varietal of Southern Italy that is low-yielding and early ripening, producing an un-oaked wine with loads of character and viscosity. Ripe, rich fruit and juicy acidity make this a delicious wine with antipasti, roasted white meats, rich seafood and creamy cheeses.

Domaine Delesvaux clos de la Guiberderie Coteaux du Layon, St. Aubin 2003

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Marcus Sawatsky of Niche shares his love of Domaine Delesvaux clos de la Guiberderie Coteaux du Layon, St. Aubin 2003:

This is authentic wine. No industrial yeasts are used, no enzymes are added to manicure the characters of the grape and the fruit is raised biodynamically to preserve the uniqueness of the terroir and the integrity of the land itself.

Wine academia aside, this little Chenin Blanc, is sweet without being cloying, rich without being pretentious and downright ethereal on the palate. A portion of the grapes in this cuvee have been affected by the natural botrytis that thrives in these Anjou vineyards and the remaining ones are allowed to dry in the sun to raisin them slightly. This is old school and low tech wine making at its best.

Domaine Phillipe Delesvaux creates several labels from their 35 acres of vines, with my current love Domaine Delesvaux clos de la Guiberderie Coteaux du Layon, St. Aubin 2003. The 2003 shows up as deep straw to golden in the glass, pushing that rich hue right to the rim of the glass. The medium-plus level of viscocity clings to the glass and shows its superior breeding in its long legs. The nose is bright, but slightly restrained, alluding to the fact that it may have some age on it, and the honeysuckle, field heather and Anjou pear sneak up on you as you swirl and sniff it.

In the mouth, I have enjoyed it’s angelic touch of stone fruit, marzipan, held up by a perfect nip of acidity. Balance is the name of the game here, with a reined-in level of alcohol rarely experienced in this new age of global wine. All initial reactions conclude in a unanimous decision. This wine builds with time on the palate and collects into a perfectly built argument. A classic finish built on vivid minerality and subtle botrytis flavours seems to go on just long enough to buy time until the next sip. Grab it while you can, for at only 30 dollars/ 500mls it can’t last for ever.

Rompicollo, Poggio al Tufo

Mon, 10 Nov 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Rob Scales, Sommelier at Il Terrazzo Ristorante in Victoria shares his wine pick of the week:

Poggio al Tufo owned by Tommasi is producing a tasty little super-Tuscan called Rompicollo. From the volcanic soils of the Tuscan coast, this Cabernet-Sangiovese blend offers black currant, plum and red tree fruit flavor profiles. This consumer friendly style caters to the new world palate with soft tannins, ripe fruit and cedary undertones. Rompicollo over-delivers at the $22 price point. Serve with full-bodied fare. Available at the BCLDB (+780585)

Gres Saint-Paul, Grange Philippe

Mon, 27 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Glenn Barlow of BC Liquor Guys is seeing red:

"This time of year I’m thinking red from Southern France. My pick is the Gres Saint-Paul, Grange Philippe “Costa Santene” Grenache Syrah blend with peppery, black cherry, licorice, and smoked meat aromas. Good structure and weight with long orange rind notes on the finish. $22."

Old Main Red by Kettle Valley, 2004 & 2005

Fri, 3 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Executive Chef Stephan Drolet of Wren Restaurant recommends Old Main Red by Kettle Valley, 2004 or 2005 for EAT readers: "This wine has the longest legs I`ve ever seen in such a young red! It`s got huge flavours and stands up to a wide array of flavours. Go grilled game meats, braises, spices, and, in some instances,
salmon, with a nice red wine jelly on it. The sweetness of the jelly is a nice counter-point to the wine, and lets the salmon shine.

As with all wines (and opinions on wine) it`s all so very subjective to the moment. A great ambiance, surrounded with friends and family, whether you have it with food or just on its own, and, well, this is tough to beat with other young wines here in BC."

For more of-the-moment wine recommendations, listen to the very savvy Michelle and Micheala of House Wine on CFUN radio.

2005 Cambon La Pelouse, Haut-Medoc

Fri, 26 Sep 2008 00:00:00 GMT

"A big-time sleeper of the vintage, the 2005 Cambon La Pelouse possesses a dark ruby-purple hue as well as an exotic, flamboyant, fruity bouquet of black cherries, wood smoke, tobacco, and spice. Lush, round, and opulent, it is ideal for drinking over the next five to six years." Robert Walker (leading U.S. wine critic).

Available at the Six Mile Liquor Store during their 2005 Bordeaux Pre-Release
(498 Island Hwy or call 250.391.4458 for details), $35.

Don Miguel Gascon Malbec 2006 from Argentina

Tue, 9 Sep 2008 00:00:00 GMT

There is nothing shy about this thick concentrated red from the sun-baked, windswept vineyards of the Andes. Blackish purple and loaded with ripe blackberry, blueberry and cherry flavours! The mouth-filling texture on the palate is lovely-deep round and rich, silky smooth but with plenty of grip through the finish. A big wine with flavours to match that will handle anything autumn blows your way! $16.00-18.00

Bodegas Ostatu Crianza 2006

Wed, 31 Dec 1969 00:00:00 GMT

Rioja Alavesa DOC, Spain

$24.99

Out of the dozens of wines I tasted at last weekend’s Cornucopia, this one stood out (the stars all over my tasting book are proof). Great value found here in this 100% Tempranillo, crafted from vines averaging 40 years in age. Aromas of spice, soft cinnamon, blackberry and a whiff of violets lead to smooth and lush dark berry, vanilla, a nd ripe plum, with a pleasing current of minerality throughout. Sophisticated and new-worldly styled Rioja. With roasted pork loin sided with cherry compote, this will be a knockout.

***

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

** Good example of varietal type.

*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!