Eat Magazine - Articles

Local Dining, Part 2

Tue, 31 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Photos: clockwise from the left - Smoked sablefish and quinoa salad at Commune Café, sabayon with local strawberries and Five-hour braised oxtail at Kitsilano Daily Kitchen. Floating Dining Room. by Anya Levykh

It’s been another busy week of local feasting (hey, the season only lasts so long) and, despite the approach of monsoon season, there is still plenty of bounty for you to enjoy. Here’s a look at what’s going on.

Commune Café

From the multi-talented consulting team of Annette Rawlinson and Tina Fineza comes Commune Café, a bright, open, cafeteria-style restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a focus on healthy meals using natural, free-range meats and eggs, organic produce and milk products, and 100% sustainable local seafood. My first visit included smoked sablefish and quinoa salad with cucumber, currants, fresh mint and lime, as well as a heavenly aged prosciutto panini with mozza and basil. Definitely one to try: “Food of the Gods”—a butterscotch-based “brownie” with dates and nuts, recipe courtesy of Chef Fineza’s mom. I first thought the name was a little over the top, but the taste more than lives up to the title. Also worth checking out are the Iranian flatbreads.

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Kitsilano Daily Kitchen

I’ve always been a fan of Chef Brian Fowke, so I was hugely disappointed when Mon Bella closed several months back. Lucky me, I didn’t have to stay disappointed for long. Chef Fowke took over the lease at the former Mon Bella space in Kits, and Kitsilano Daily Kitchen was recently born. Chef goes daily to the markets to see what’s fresh, available, in season, and then posts a menu by 4pm each day. The other night we decided to try the $39 tasting menu, which allows you to try all four of the daily mains. Five-hour braised oxtail with Chilliwack corn, purple potatoes and a sweet serrano glaze was a huge favourite, as were the crispy veal sweetbreads with lobster over a bed of lemon risotto and herb salad. Everyone was served an appetizer-sized amuse of lamb curry, made from scratch, and we made room for a fresh sabayon with local strawberries, even though we were a little stuffed, because, hey, it’s sabayon.

Website

REMINDER: Floating Dining Room ends September 23!

If you’ve been meaning to make a reservation, now is the time. The School of Fish Foundation’s Floating Dining Room will close shop after September 23, so this is your last chance to experience the ultimate six-course, wine-paired, sustainable seafood extravaganza created by SOFF Founder Shannon Ronalds. Email contact@schooloffishfoundation.org to make your reservation.

Website

Note: Vancouver Views will be on Vacation next week returning September 15th.

Getting Ready for the Art of the Cocktail

Mon, 30 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: G. Hynes

Drink editor Treve Ring recently chatted up the reigning Cocktail Queen (Festival Director Kathy Kay) and Liquid Revolutionist (Bartender Shawn Soole) about this year’s Art of the Cocktail Festival (AoTC). This three day fundraising festival benefits the Victoria Film Festival, and celebrates the Art, Craft & Tradition of the Cocktail with participants from across North America.

The Slow Food movement has invaded cocktail hour, and spirit-speak can rival wine geeking any day. Serious mixologists worry about the shape, size and solidity of ice, the quality of their bitters and the perfect balance of flavours. They collect vintage glassware and space-age ice molds. They tinker with dehydrators to crisp garnishes and smokers to lend complexity, and concoct recipes for fresh fruit purees, housemade grenadine and infused syrups. Art of the Cocktail recognizes the renaissance of this craft, and helps spread the spirit of the Spirit.

AoTC is now in its second year. How will this year's festival be different than the first? What will remain the same?

Kathy Kay. We're only having one Grand Tasting this year instead of three. And that event will be at Crystal Gardens. Also, we've put a big focus on industry - workshops exclusively for them, along with Industry-only brand tastings that will give the brands and bartenders a great opportunity to connect. Plus some fun private events that will give them a chance to connect in a more relaxed atmosphere.

Shawn Soole. The Best Bartender in the Pacific Northwest Competition Presented by EAT Magazine won't differ too much from last year. The presentation cocktail competition will be dialed in a bit better than last year but other than that the other portions will be the same. Though this year it will a stand-alone event instead of part of the Grand Tasting.

Who is the target market of the festival?

KK. We're looking to attract both the public and the industry, with different events.

For the public: We've set up the Grand Tasting on Saturday, a series of workshops on Saturday and Sunday, Bartender's Competition on Sunday and then multi-course dinners with paired cocktails on Monday.

For the Industry: On Sunday and Monday there are workshops plus a Brand Tasting event on Monday and I'm sure they're going to want to go the Bartender's Competition.

How many people participated in the Bartender Competition in 2009? How many contestants are you hoping for in 2010?

SS. We had about 8 competitors last year and we are hoping for about 15-20 this year but no more than that. When you get too many competitors it gets boring for the crowd.

How many people attended the entire festival 2009? How many are you planning for in 2010?

KK. In 2009, we had 457 people. In 2010 we're hoping for 1000.

Having a major cocktail event here in Victoria is gutsy. What was/is feedback from people in the industry?

KK. I've always been a cocktail fan. I think having a perfect tiny cocktail with hors d'oeuvres before dinner is such a grown up thing to do. So with all the Provincial Government mismanagement of our tax dollars and the subsequent slashing of Arts Funding we were trying to think of a way to raise money and do something fun and different in the community that wouldn't just be another fundraiser. I'd heard about Tales of the Cocktail and the Aspen Food & Wine Show and I thought that Victorians would be up for something unique like that.

For feedback from the industry it's been great. Kathleen Shandley, from PMA was on board right away and got Global Hendrick's Gin Ambassador Charlotte Voisey here and they sponsored a brunch and helped us spread the word. Others followed and now some brands even contact us. I get feedback that it's spreading the cocktail culture and since we support intelligent drinking it's presented in the right way.

SS. I think last year changed the way people saw the industry and our jobs as a whole. People (being the general public) started to realize there were a handful of crazies doing cocktails like no one had ever seen before. When you create that buzz, then other bartenders jump onto it. The general public changed the industry, not the other way around. It's a really exciting time in Victoria right now.

What are some of the seminars and events scheduled so far?

KK. Well, it’s growing on a weekly basis, but right now we have these confirmed:

Workshops for Public:

The World Traveller: Best Bars & Cocktails. Kevin Brauch takes you on a tour of his top cocktail bars in the world and the cocktails that make them great.

The Oddballs: For the person with the adventurous palate walk on the wild side with Dr. Cocktail, Ted Haigh, as he explores non-traditional cocktails and the keys to their success.

Workshops for Industry:

How to Win the Competitions: A panel consisting of competitors and judges dole out the tips necessary to get the edge in a mixology competition.

Pimp My Menu: Jeff Morgenthaler of the world famous Clyde Common demonstrates how to up your cocktail game.

Dinners with a Twist: Vista 18, Veneto Tapas Lounge, Spinnaker's Gastro Brewpub

The festival is a fundraiser - tell me more about where proceeds go.

KK. The funds go to the Victoria Film Festival film programming - it's actually quite expensive to bring some of the films in, because there are fees for the distributor or filmmaker and the shipping costs from Europe or Asia. The money also helps us to bring the filmmakers to Victoria so they can talk to the audiences at their screening. It's what makes coming to the Film Festival really special. You don't just see a film; you get to meet the director, or the writer or one of the actors.

Best Bartender in the Pacific Northwest Competition. That’s a pretty big title. What is involved?

SS. Well I wanted to create a competition like I used to do back home in Oz. And the title is Best in the Pacific Northwest so it couldn't be taken lightly. There is a written portion of about 50 questions that are a mix of multiple choice, short and long answer and recipe questions. I don't make it hard/hard, I write it out of my head without doing any research. This way if a bartender says that I made it too hard, I can just tell him that I know all the answers so it can't be too hard. If I know it, then the best of the best should.

Then they go to a blind tasting. Five spirits in no particular order or category. You get points for style of spirit (whiskey, gin, etc.) and then extra points for naming the brand.

The final stage is the presentation of your cocktail to the judges and crowd. You get points not only on the drink but also on your demeanor behind the bar. This is not a mixology competition but a bartending competition - you get marked on everything you do in your job.

Each year there is a theme ingredient for the cocktail. Any hints for this year?

SS. Well I like to keep that a secret, and we know that Kathy Kay likes to throw curve balls. Last year’s ingredient was Cedar.

How can interested participants apply?

SS. Go to the website (www.artofthecocktail.ca) and apply there.

What is your favourite cocktail (forevermore, or just presently)?

SS. I do love my Negroni's but I hate when people sit at the bar and ask me what my favorite cocktail on the list is. I learnt a long time ago that it’s not about me but about you, I love strong bitter flavours, you may hate that so why would I make you a Maximo di Negroni when you aren't going to like it. At the moment though I am pushing Fernet Branca and Cola to everyone, it tastes like unsweetened root beer and is an Argentinean classic.

KK. Forevermore it's the Martini made with Plymouth Gin, Noilly Prat, Bitter Truth Orange Bitters and a Castelvetrano olive - it's perfection. Oh and I do have a fondness for Murray Stenson's Trident - aquavit, cynar, dry sherry and peach bitters. The first time I went to Zig Zag in Seattle I mulled over the cocktail menu before I went (it's online) and I couldn't get my head around that flavour combination and so then I really wanted to order it. When I did, Murray wanted to know why I wanted that one - it seems that the cocktail had been mentioned in the media down there and a lot of people ordered it without thinking about the type of drink they usually liked and so hated it - and Murray being the gent that he is would take it back and make them something else so from then on he wanted to check out the type of palate someone had before he'd make them the drink. Thank gawd I passed muster because it's now one of my favourites and Shawn makes it for me at Clive's.

Local Seasonal Dining

Sat, 28 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Photos from left, clockwise: At Yew: Pork t-bone (sans bone) came with a corn and white bean succotash, Berkshire pork and peaches, crab salad in parsley water with jicama and grapefruit. At Provence Marinaside: tomato tart, tomato gnocchi topped with crab.

Photos by Anya Levykh

It’s the height of the growing season, and products like tomatoes, corn and seafood are at their best. For the past week, I have been enjoying the local bounty at a couple local restaurants. Here are a few things you may want to try out before time—and crops—runs out.

Yew at the Four Seasons

This is one of those progressive restaurants that just keeps swinging it out of the park. They’ve nailed another home run with their latest, a series of three-course prix fixe menus, each for $35, that run throughout the year, featuring different local products each month. The Fresh From series features Berkshire pork and peaches for August, and will be looking at Dungeness crab and corn for September. I tried a bit of both menus. Sloping Hills Farms pork belly was matched with buttery seared sablefish and roasted Okanagan peach. Pork t-bone (sans bone) came with a corn and white bean succotash, drizzled with caramelized apple jus. From the September menu, a crab salad in parsley water with jicama and grapefruit was so tangy, fresh and refreshing that it felt like a healthy shot of Red Bull. And if you’re wondering what’s coming up in October, think wild salmon and hazelnuts…

Website

Provence Marinaside

As I mentioned earlier, tomato season is in full swing, and there’s still time to enjoy the Tomato Festival menu at Provence Marinaside and Provence Mediterranean Grill. I went to Marinaside recently, and inhaled my way through an absolutely heavenly chilled yellow tomato soup with prawns and cucumber, a puffy tomato tart, and a slobberingly good tomato gnocchi topped with a small mountain of crab. The three course menus go for $48 at Marinaside and $45 at Mediterranean Grill, and include your choice of any dessert off the menu, including a special tomato capadano.

Website

And for a true local experience…

Feast of Fields Lower Mainland still has some tickets available for this Sunday. Come on out, support your local producers, and taste your way through some of the city’s top chefs and bakers—not to mention the wine! Tickets are $85 for adults, $15 for children ages 7 to 12, and children age 6 and under are free.

Website

Pumpkin Sources

Sat, 28 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Shamrock Farm

Open to public October 1st-31st—pick-your-own pumpkins and farm tours

2276 Anderton Road, Comox, British Columbia, Canada V9M 4B2.

Tel 250-339-1671

www.shamrockfarm.ca

PUMPKIN VARIETIES

Small Sugar

The standard pie pumpkin. It’s size is handy to work with. Flesh is deep orange and flavourful. The most popular eating variety.

Jack-be-Little

A miniature version of an old fashioned pumpkin with colorful, deep ribbed skins that fit in the palm of your hand. Flesh is very sweet and yummy. Use them as little bowls for pumpkin soup and chili.

Rouge Vif D'Etampes

A unique French heirloom pumpkin. It’s flat top and bottom,- deep-ridged and gorgeous shade of red. A larger type eating pumpkin, it can reach 22lbs. Texture and flavour suits any sweet and savoury pumpkin or squash recipe. Rouge Vif D'Etampes is delightfully decorative.

Fairytale

Also a heritage pumpkin from France. It is a large (around 15lb) flat pumpkin with a unique tan color. This one that really looks like Cinderella's coach! It has delicious flesh for baking. Stores well.

Dakota

The Farrells grow Dakotas for school children on a farm tour. A blocky round pumpkin (5-7lbs) it has vibrant orange fruit, smooth skin and dark green handles. Not only is it easy to carve it makes a great pie. Children like carving and trying their hand at cooking this variety.

Abby Lane Farm

Open to public October 10 am until dusk

7233 Mays Road, Duncan BC, V9L 6A7

Phone: 250-709-5405

www.abbylanefarm.com

Owner Catherine Young also grown Blue Jarridale pumpkins

Snow Farms certified organic

No retail sales,

Pumpkins available at Thrifty Foods, Choices, and Overwaitea

All varieties available at Harris Nursery and Florist

6508 Ladner Trunk Rd Rr 3

Delta BC, V4K 3N3

Phone #: 604-946-5986

Key contact: Ross Luchene

(no website)

Hazlemere Organics

Sugar Pie Pumpkins

On-line ordering

Contact:

Naty King

Address: 1859 – 184th Street Surrey, BC V3S 9V2

Phone: (604) 538-3018

www3.telus.net/hazelmereorganics

Certified Organic by SOFS Susan SnoPh

(604) 835-4749

Further tips and resources for pumpkins.

Want to grow your own sweet pumpkins? Check out West Coast Seeds and Dam seeds for suppliers/ordering.

www.westcoastseeds.com.

www.damseeds.ca

Books

Most of Edible Heirlooms: Heritage Vegetables for the Maritime Garden by Bill Thorness is printed on-line. Also available through Amazon.ca it contains invaluable tips on growing pumpkins.

Up We Grow! A Year in the Life of a Small Farm

Sat, 28 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

This week’s book is a visually stunning collaboration between award-winning children’s author Deborah Hodge and photographer Brian Harris. If there are children in your life who don’t know that peas grow in pods or potatoes grow underground, Up We Grow! A Year in the Life of a Small Farm is the book to remedy the situation.

Photographed primarily at Glen Valley Organic Farm Cooperative, the book is divided by seasons, and takes the reader through a full year of farming activities, with a focus on production as well as the human interaction so important to small-scale agriculture. Children will be prompted to imagine themselves involved in the various tasks, with questions like “What kind of seed would you like to plant?” or “Which job (on the farm) would you like best?”

Many of the images from the book are presently on display at the MOV’s Home Grown exhibit. Kids Can Press will also be releasing a companion volume, Watch Me Grow! A Down-to-Earth Look at Growing Food in the City, next spring.

Up We Grow! A Year in the Life of a Small Farm (Kids Can Press, 2010, $16.95)

A New Canvas

Fri, 27 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Katherine Hutchins

Three years ago, while discovering my new neighbourhood on bicycle, I stumbled upon a lush, green patio space nestled against a warm, textured, brick building in residential James Bay. After a look at the intricate menu and a tour inside the wimsy and wild, dining space indoors, I realized I had found one of Victoria’s culinary gems.

Since then, I have been a regular at The Superior, telling anyone who will listen what lies dazzlingly and deliciously in our neighbourhood to the South. Visionary Lisa Boehme opened The Superior five years ago and brought chef Torin Egan on six months later. The meeting of these two creative visionaries has sparked an artistic relationship unlike anything else in Victoria. Offering a stage to local musicians and huge walls for display of artists work, Lisa and Torin create a space that lures regulars and visitors alike with an appreciation for the arts, something unusual, something special and always something local and tasty.

Raised in Victoria, Chef Torin Egan is strikingly humble and speaks carefully and with expressive hands about the importance of simplicity and freshness of food. It is clear that he feels a deep affinity with food. For the past four and a half years Torin has committed much of his culinary passion to The Superior spending ten to twelve hours, six days a week, making sure every culinary detail is attended to.

Grateful to be involved with The Superior, Torin describes the amazing and longstanding staff that help make it all come together every night. Torin and his fellow kitchen staff take part in all aspects of what goes on in the average night and he mentions he is not above doing any job that needs to be done. This respect for all aspects of process as well as his appreciation for the skill of his fellow staff, make Torin a pleasure to spend a few minutes with.

It is no wonder everything tastes so good at The Superior as I listen to Torin speak of accessibility, simplicity and freshness. Specifically, Torin chooses smaller servings, prioritizing our ability to taste a variety of things with each visit. He loves the combination of salty and sweet, offering challenging flavour profiles in the same dish. There is always a diverse range of foods for both the vegetarian and meat eater alike and the menu often changes, offering the freshest of what is available locally.

The importance of close relationships with local area reps, farmers and producers like Cowichan Bay Farms, Saanich Organics, Abrosia markets and his neighbours at Finest at Sea are mentioned as an intricate element to The Superiors success and passion.

After speaking with Torin and spending countless evening and lunches at The Superior, it is clear that Torin and Lisa and the staff at The Superior have created something special. They have found a niche their own and a committed following within a city brimming with artists, musicians and foodies. That is why I was surprised and saddened along with many others, to read of The Superior being put up for sale.

But after some reflection, I suppose it would be selfish to expect such creative and passionate people to stay still for too long in a situation where they’ve already achieved so much. These two have shown clear leadership and innovation in a city full of eateries. Torin smiles thoughtfully at the end of our interview and mentions the excitement at the possibility of a clean slate. “Lisa said it best: "Time for a new Canvas".”

To try one of chef Torin's summer recipes, visit the recipe box.

Sea Cider & Finest at Sea Pairing Dinner at The Mark

Tue, 24 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Last night we escaped the summer windstorm and tucked into a bountiful sustainable cider and seafood pairing dinner at The Mark, in the Hotel Grand Pacific. A consistently great room for wine dinners, this was the first cider pairing dinner they’ve hosted – and the first cider-centric sup I’ve attended.

Sea Cider owner/operator/cidermaker Kristen Jordan was on hand to guide us through the world of artisan ciders. Once one of the most important beverages in North America (“safer to drink than water”), cider fell out of fashion with industrialization and the exodus from farm fields to city streets. Prohibition was the final axe-blow to the industry, with many cider orchards felled or left to die, taking with it the skills and traditions of cidermaking. Luckily, people like Kristen are now starting to revitalize craft ciders and share the story of this versatile and delicious drink. If you haven’t visited Sea Cider on the Saanich Peninsula, I urge you to do so. Unpretentious and knowledgeable staff will guide you through a tasting and introduce you to a range of flavours (dry through sweet) and styles (sparkling to still).

The Mark stepped up, as always, with thoughtful and artistically presented pairings, all centered around sustainably harvested seafood from Finest At Sea (FAS). Here is how the evening unfolded:

Reception:

Sea Angel Oysters, Pickled Silver Skin Onions, Dashi Pears

Smoked Sablefish Tamale, Brandy Wine Tomato Salsa Verde

Outer Coast Albacore Tuna Loin, Rhubarb Confiture, Young Basil

with Cocktail of Silk Road Tea’s White Earl Grey and Philosophers Brew, Sea Cider Pomona, Absolut Citron, 'petals' of granny smith apple and ice.

Ah – greeted with an original cocktail, and a hat trick of FAS appies is such a lovely way to start an evening. The Tamale wins the presentation prize, deftly husk wrapped and tied, like a wee Christmas cracker. Cones of Albacore Tuna were a close second –with guests following the platters around the room.

Dungeness Crab, Silver Rill Corn Milk Parfait, Salt Spring Island Chèvre

with Sea Cider Wild English

This made one of the best pairings of the eve – the silky sweetness of the local and just-shucked Silver Rill Corn and the extra dry, earthy mineral crispness of the Wild English proved that opposites do attract.

Qualicum Beach Scallops Choux Choux Pancetta, J&C Arugula

with Sea Cider Kings & Spies

Kings & Spies changes every vintage, depending on the blend of apples brought in by their partnership with LifeCycles. However, local Kings and Northern Spies make up the bulk of the blend in this gently effervescent cider, hence the memorable name. This year’s version (bottled 2 weeks ago!) is Spanish in style, with crisp apple, creamy pear and herbal nutty flavours. Bitter arugula was a great match, as was the salty complexity of the pancetta.

Poached Line Caught Halibut Loin, White Gazpacho, Grilled Okanagan Peaches

with Sea Cider Pippins

A hefty, punchy, Prohibition-style cider with sweet apple and white peach notes and an off-dry efferfescant finish. The grilled peaches were a smart add to the silky and delicate (sous vide?) halibut.

Wild Oregon Grape Soda

This shotglass palate cleanser could also be called a palate-dyer. Uber-concentrated and inky-purple intense, Oregon Grape (the state flower of Oregon) is not actually a grape. This berry is found from Oregon state through British Columbia, can be made into jelly, and has been used medicinally by Native Americans and in modern herbal remedies to treat various gastric ailments. Restaurant Chef Michael Minshull picked these wild berries himself, and the kitchen transformed their sour zippiness into a soda.

Cured Wild Chinook Salmon, Fava Bean Cannelloni, Heirloom Tomato

with Sea Cider Rumrunner

This was my primo pairing of the evening. Rumrunner is aged in Kentucky bourbon barrels, resulting in nutty, brown sugar and apple molasses richness in this off-dry and effervescent cider. Absolutely delish – and made even more so by the salmon, cured, presumably, in some sort of brown sugar brine. Whatever magic the kitchen concocted worked wonders – the salmon was stunning with the cider.

Emperor Fig Tart, Black Berry Curd, Vanilla Lavender Cookie

with Sea Cider Pomona

My fellow traded in his sweet tooth for a salt lick long ago, so to have him proclaim that this was his best dish of the night is saying something. I can see why – the delicate yet flavourful summer flavors of the tart was stellar. Along with the concentrated golden Pomona elixir, the dish was sublime, and sent diners off on a high note.

Props to The Mark for devoting the energy and detailed hours to a cider pairing seafood feast – and huge props to Kristen and her team at Sea Cider for the bravery and perseverance to make it all possible.

www.themark.ca

www.seacider.ca

www.finestatsea.com

@grandpacific

@seaciderhouse

Bringing Food to the Forefront

Mon, 23 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

PechaKucha (pronounced any way you deem fit, according to presenter and performance poet, Missie Peters) is a concept developed in Tokyo, in 2003, by designers Astrid Klein and Mark Dytham. The central purpose is to connect designers, so they can share their work, meet, and network. Since 2003, the evenings have grown into large celebrations that occur around the globe. From Schiedam, Seattle, to Seville and Seoul, the evenings follow a basic format that ensures concise, clear and creative presentations. Presenters are given six minutes and forty seconds to discuss their field of expertise and passion. They are allotted twenty slides, which breaks down to twenty seconds per slide. Elevated at the back of the room are the unforgiving timekeepers who never stop their clocks, not even for a stammered um or ah. The twenty by twenty show must go on!

Cliff Leir, of Fol Epi Bakery, believes that food is primal and brings us together. This idea could not have been more profoundly witnessed than at Victoria’s third volume of PechaKucha Night on August 12th. Lovers of all things related to food met at the Victoria Event Centre to listen to thirteen speakers discuss, present, and even rap about their relationship with the food culture here in Victoria. Traveling foodies, wood fire oven builders, and a dedicated burger blogger were among the presenters of the evening. The topic “Thought for Food” offered inspirational and creative discussion, and included sampling delectable snacks and cocktails from mixologist, Shawn Soole.

The particular topic, “Thought for Food” was comfortably fitting for the Victoria setting. Local food consumption is being popularized, becoming more accessible, and environmentally sustainable food choices are commonly being made amongst Victorian residents. This particular emphasis was illustrated by Phillipe Lucas, a former cook, gardener and now city councillor, and Lucas Copplestone of "Get Fresh", a local where-to guide. The “Thought for Food” night not only addressed issues and examined our community’s relationships with food and the choices we make, but also looked at the importance of the artistic relationship between consumption and presentation. A few of the presenters, such as Jesse Campbell of ConnectVisual, and Jennifer Danter, EAT contributor, challenged the traditional understanding of food as something edible, adding that art and food are inextricably connected, as they are both universal languages.

The evening was educational, and the energy in the room was fueled by those who came out in support. The Event Centre was buzzing with the chatter of conversation, music, and the scent of tamales, generously gifted from Hernande’z. Raw chocolate goji berry brownies from Café Bliss, beautiful artisan breads from Fol Epi, and Phillips beer rounded out the evening, complimenting a successful food-focused gathering.

For more information on Victoria's PechaKucha Nights, click here.

To view a brief video from the evening, click here.

The New Diva on the Block

Wed, 18 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Photos from left, clockwise: At Diva: Cinnamon-smoked duck breast came with aromatic sweet onion puree, and creamy Valrhona mousse. Chocolate palette with raspberry ravioli. Bayne sound scallop, blackberry hazelnut bread pudding, lingcod with spot prawn and fennel.

This week I finally checked out the new menu—and chef—at Diva at the Met. I’ve always admired Chef Quang Dang from his long sojourn at C Restaurant, but wondered how the rigorous simplicity of that ethic would transfer to a larger, more complex hotel kitchen operation. I needn’t have worried. In addition to being one of, if not the youngest, hotel executive chef in the city, Chef Dang is also one of its most inspired.

I started with several items from the new Rosé menu that is running now until the end of September. Each dish is created to match a famous Rosé. A freshly shucked Bayne Sound scallop—matched with Segura Viudas Brut Rosé—was decorated with clam meat, lightly doused in olive oil and seaweed, and decorated with olive oil jelly cubes and an olive oil powder that dissolved on the tongue. Rosé-marinated cucumbers were ever-so-lightly pickled for a perfect contrast to the raw scallop. Blackberry and hazelnut bread salad with fresh chevre from Farmhouse Cheeses was matched perfectly with Miguel Torres de Casta 2009 Rosado, and pan roasted ling cod over a ragout of chorizo, spot prawn and fennel came with the always-popular JoieFarm 2009 Rosé. The ling cod resembled a deconstructed bouillabaisse, especially with the creamy reduction served in its own glass and topped with crunchy breadsticks.

I also tried a few items off the regular dinner menu. Chef Dang refers to his food as Cascadian cuisine, and it certainly references the region and its menu cultural influences. Lightly seared albacore tuna slices were served over a cucumber rolled around pickled shitakes and radishes. The whole was then topped with Chef’s own smoked tuna bonito, grated tableside, which had the loveliest pungency. Cinnamon-smoked duck breast came with aromatic sweet onion puree, and creamy Valrhona mousse was sided with silky raspberry ravioli that oozed fresh puree at the prick of my fork.

I also discovered a new local Viognier from Ruby Tuesday on the Naramata Bench, the new child from the former owners of Red Rooster, Beat and Prudence Mahrer. Bright, crisp, with a soft mouth feel, it made a perfect match for the tuna. You can only find this at restaurants or direct from the winery at present. Road trip, anyone?

The Summer Nightshades

Mon, 16 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photos, clockwise from upper left: Chef Laurie Munn pours out the Gazpacho Consommé, rows of greens growing at Foxglove, Michael Ableman, dry-farmed tomatoes growing at Foxglove. All photos by Rebecca Baugniet

I’m not sure we’re on the right road, I worry, as we work our way higher and higher along the narrow winding road. My brain is definitely in summer mode, feeling almost as foggy as the weather we’re driving through. Instead of my usual organized strategy of printing up a google map with precise door-to-door instructions, this particular Sunday morning I’ve left the house without a map, telling myself I’d find some information or a brochure on the ferry. No such luck – I must remember in future that the ferry to Salt Spring does not house a wall of brochures. I bump into a familiar face (an EAT photographer) headed home for a visit with her parents, but she’s also unsure of the farm’s exact location.

The helpful soul at the information centre in Ganges looks up the address for me, but as the road winds on I am growing increasingly concerned that I might be on the wrong track. Suddenly, from the depths of my memory the words “Perched high on Mount Maxwell(…) sits Foxglove Farm” float to the surface and confidence is restored. I’m not sure exactly where I’ve read those words, but sure enough, we finally spot the weatherworn sign that tells us we’ve arrived, just in time for our Field to Plate workshop.

“Why are they called ‘nightshades’?” someone asks, as we tour the impeccably maintained farm, admiring varieties of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and potatoes included in the plant family, each in their various stages of growth. No one is quite sure where the name comes from, and when I get home I am surprised to learn that there is no entry on it in the Larousse Gastronomique, though my dictionary tells me that the word stems from Old English, with reference to the dark colour and poisonous properties of the berries common to many of the plants in the family.

--------------------------------------------------Munn starts with a gorgeous gazpacho consommé, blitzing the tomatoes with an immersion blender (“what are you doing to my tomatoes?” objects Ableman with a laugh).

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Nothing poisonous on our menu, though these plants do have their own particular quirks. Michael Ableman takes us through his fields, sharing some of these challenges with us. He’s lost the three crops of corn he planted this year due to the unpredictable weather, but some of his challenges are brought on himself. He makes reference to a certain hubris he exhibits, pushing the limits of what is considered possible in these growing conditions, for example, planting potatoes later than neighbouring farms because he doesn’t see any sense in harvesting potatoes at the same time as everyone else. This can achieve either pleasingly anachronistic results – new potatoes and fingerlings harvested in autumn, or huge losses if an early frost hits. Luckily, most of his gambles pay off, as is visible in the splendid display (and regular line-ups) at the Foxglove booth at the Salt Spring farmer’s market.

This year’s cool spring and late start to summer mean that of all the nightshades grown on the farm, only the tomatoes are truly at their prime in time for this class, so guest Chef Laurie Munn from Café Brio has shifted the focus of his afternoon menu to showcase the colourful plant to its full extent. He’s come to the right place for tomatoes – there are at least twenty different varieties being grown here, from the addictive “Sun Gold” to “Tangerine Tomato”, “Pink Beauty” and “Black Prince”.

Munn starts with a gorgeous gazpacho consommé, blitzing the tomatoes with an immersion blender (“what are you doing to my tomatoes?” objects Ableman with a laugh), then straining the mixture through cheesecloth to achieve a delicate pink consommé that packs the full flavour punch of a chunky gazpacho. Topped with smoked albacore tuna and an heirloom tomato salad, the chilled soup provides a refreshing start to our three-course meal. The kitchen has a definite rustic charm (the oven door needs to be propped shut with a chair), which is reassuring for the home cook; Munn demonstrates that the gourmet kitchen is not at all necessary to pull off an exquisite meal. In fact, these circumstances prove even more conducive to providing ultimate flavour, with Ableman running out to pick the missing cucumbers, and passing around different heirloom tomatoes to tide us over when our stomachs begin to rumble.

The field to plate workshops offered at Foxglove provide an experience that is truly satisfying to all the senses. You get to experience firsthand the connection between the field and the plate, with the finest ingredients prepared by the some of the finest chefs from our region. You also get to witness the important relationship between farmer and chef, gain a renewed appreciation for exactly how much work goes into the food we eat, and learn a few new skills to apply in the garden or the kitchen - all this in a staggeringly beautiful location.

To learn more about the workshops and other programs on offer at Foxglove, click here. To try Chef Laurie Munn’s recipe for savoury tomato tart, check the EAT recipe box.

The Particular Sadness of Lemon Cake

Sun, 15 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

I have a mug with one of those classic housewife images from the ‘50’s – a smiling mom bringing a platter of food to the dinner table. The caption, in bold type, reads: “the secret ingredient is resentment”. A friend gave me the mug shortly after we had commiserated about the trials of lovingly preparing a home-cooked dinner for the family, only to have it met with criticism or disappointment at the table. Every mom I know loves my mug. But imagine if you could actually taste the resentment, how hard it would be to stomach the food that was prepared with hostility or bitterness. This is the case for Rose, the protagonist in Aimee Bender’s surreal novel, The Particular Sadness of Lemon Cake.

As the title suggests, it is not resentment that she tastes, though Rose would be able to detect it, if that was the emotion felt by the cook at the time they prepared her food. Her heightened taste buds pick up on every little detail of the food she eats. She can detect the geographical location of specific ingredients, the demeanor of the farmers or producers and the emotional state of those who prepared the food. This premise results in some very original food writing. Much of the novel deals with Rose learning to cope with this special ability, finding respite in factory produced foods which are mostly void of feeling, or teaching herself to focus on the geographical details when faced with eating her mother’s cooking, to avoid dwelling on the overwhelming emptiness she tastes there.

Though the idea of food embodying feeling has been explored before, most notably in Like Water for Chocolate, by Laura Esquivel, Aimee Bender’s writing is fresh and thought provoking. In its own quiet way, The Particular Sadness of Lemon Cake does convey a plea for more conscious eating. Food lovers will enjoy considering what details they are neglecting to register when they eat, and literature lovers will appreciate Bender’s lilting prose as it reflects on coming of age and family themes.

The Particular Sadness of Lemon Cake, Aimee Bender (Doubleday, 2010).

Veneto at Hotel Rialto

Fri, 13 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Website

An Interview With Veneto Bartender Simon Ogden

I think it’s pretty fair to generalize that the majority of hospitality industry people move away from Vancouver Island to find work. Vancouver, Toronto and beyond – many f&b pros at the top of their game, or well on their way, pack up and head out in search of brighter lights, bigger names and buzzier scenes and better cheques. Which is why I was surprised to hear that longtime and highly respected Vancouver bartender Simon Ogden was moving to Victoria. What? A young, popular, professional bartender was coming here? To live and WORK in Victoria? Turns out Simon and his wife have long loved the lifestyle and – like many non-Islanders – dreamed about putting down offshore roots. So when Hotel Rialto made Simon an offer he couldn’t refuse to come and run the bar at downtown’s newest cocktail hotspot Veneto, they jumped.

Point Victoria. Vancouver’s loss is absolutely our gain. Simon is modest and humble, a classicist gentleman so expertly versed in cocktail culture and history that he is mentoring two young bartending Jedi at the Veneto. At once inherently old school (dress shirt, vest, sleeve garters) and new wave (Japanese ice molds, local gin), Simon’s deft hand with the bottle is echoed by his skilled way with the customer. He eschews the ‘scene’ and the snobs that fuel it, focusing his energy on taking care of the customer throughout their entire experience. A Playwright in his spare (?) time, he likens the bar to the stage – from the entrance to the exit and all the lines within, it’s the barkeep’s role to direct, produce and run the show for the guest.

So put yourself in good hands and take in the show. Simon made me an original cocktail, inspired by his short time in Victoria. The Serenity features Silk Road Tea, elderflower, Cognac and fresh mint, all seamlessly melded together in a tall, slender slip of a glass. Cool and subtle lemongrass, citrus, delicate mint, with a lifted, effervescent finish, this mature and elegant cocktail evolved over our discussion. Floral notes, orange wood, minerality. Each sip lulls one deeper into serenity – even sitting at the bar amongst the post-work Friday night crowd. Well played Mr. Ogden – welcome to Victoria. —Treve Ring

New Menu Launched

Anybody that’s been to Veneto in the Rialto Hotel in downtown Victoria knows that Executive Chef Tod Bosence’s menu is bold, assertive and easy to love. They also know that main course dishes are presented tapas style with three different dishes on one plate. This style of presentation is unique in Victoria and over the short time the restaurant has been open has garnered a large and loyal following.

Recently, I went in for dinner to sample dishes from the newly tweaked dinner menu. Starting with a table full of sharing starters I sampled a delicious and wonderful Indian spiced chick pea salsa with a plate of grilled flat bread and a plate of crispy fried cheese ravioli – portions were huge and if I hadn’t just sampled I would have been full.

Among the new main course plates I tried the lamb and the pork tapas. On the pork plate were Mongolian glazed baby back ribs with spicy slaw, pan-roasted pork tenderloin slices with creamed leeks and shitake mushrooms and spicy pork and chorizo lettuce wrap. Everyone at the table immediately dove into the communal size bowl of spicy ground pork grabbing spoonful of the pork and stuffing it into their large lettuce leave - happily taking messy bites. A definite hit.

The lamb trio arrived as a merguez slider with minted yogurt and tomato sauce, a kabob of a couple sirloin and shrimp pieces each that had been marinated in cilantro and lime, and lamb shank braised in coconut and slathered with a red curry sauce. All were pronounced tasty.

Manager Solomon Siegel is known for his classically inspired cocktail program and his burgeoning list of North American Craft beers (such as the legendary Lost Coast from California recently featured at a beer dinner) so new to the menu is an enlarged presence of small plates intended to pair with late night imbibing. Among the new dishes I tried the duck poutine - a whopping large bowl of fries, curds and shredded duck that had everyone lunging for more. Too full at this point to carry on with desserts I had to take a rain check for another time.

Note: The Playhouse award-winning wine list is currently in transition with Hotel Rialto Vintage Spirits wine store manager Ceri Barlow looking to add new wines to the restaurant list to pair with Tod Bosence’s lusty cuisine. Look for full-bodied reds from Chile and Chile along with plenty of local wines. —Gary Hynes

Veneto

1450 Douglas St., Victoria

250 383 7310

THE SERENITY COCKTAIL

Photo courtesy of Simon Ogden, Veneto

You'll need

4 leaves fresh Spearmint, lightly pressed in a highball glass to express the oils.

2 oz Hennessy VS Cognac

2 oz Chilled Philosopher's Brew from Silk Road Tea

1/2 oz Elderflower Syrup

Flash chill and strain into glass over 3 whiskey cubes and mint, top with Champagne.

Cooking, Grazing and the 7th "Passion"

Wed, 11 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

The next month is full of great events, classes and dining deals for the perpetually hungry and thirsty. Here are a few things you (and your offspring) shouldn’t miss.

Classes

DB Bistro Moderne’s Chef de Cuisine Nathan Guggenheimer is holding a private cooking class for eight people on Monday, August 16 at 4:30pm in the Lumière kitchen (next door to DB Bistro). Lumière is closed Mondays for private parties, so you and seven others will have the kitchen, and Nathan all to yourselves. $165 per person includes cooking class, dinner, paired wines, and take-home recipes. An $85 per person companion fare is offered for friends, family and spouses—excludes lesson but includes three-course dinner and wine pairings. Tax and gratuity extra. Email cgonzalez@lumiere.ca to reserve.

For those with kids, The Dirty Apron Cooking School is offering a one-week Teen Cooking Camp for kids ages 12 to 17, starting August 16 or August 30. Tuition for the camp includes: instruction, daily recipe book, hands-on cooking with close supervision, snacks and fine dining. All materials and equipment are provided. At the end of the week the young chefs get to take home, you guessed it, their dirty apron. $450 per person. Visit website to book.

Deals

Bistro Pastis is offering a three-course “Summer in Provence” menu for $35, on now through August 25. Enjoy a classic Pastis aperitif, sardines, red snapper, calamari and daube de boeuf. Reservations recommended.

Provence Marinaside and Provence Mediterranean Grill have launched their first annual Tomato Festival, on now through August 31, with special three-course menus for $48 and $45, respectively. Featured items include chilled yellow campari tomato soup, sundried tomato and caper-crusted sablefish, pork tenderloin medallions with tomato marmalade and candied cherry tomato capadano. Visit the website for full menu details.

Every Friday until September 10, Red Card Sports Bar & Eatery is offering their Summer Beer series. Each week will see an artisan beer paired with one of Chef Andreas Wechselberger’s tasty pizzas (cooked in that fancy imported Italian pizza oven) for $17. This Friday will feature Grolsch beer. Visit the website for full schedule.

Events

On Sunday, August 29 from 1pm to 5pm, FarmFolkCityFolk’s 16th annual Feast of Fields will take place at Wellbrook Winery in Delta, BC. A charming and unique event set under open sky, Feast of Fields celebrates B.C.’s high-summer bounty as prepared by a collective of our region’s most talented chefs, food producers, food artisans, vintners and brewers. Carrying little more than a linen napkin and wine glass, guests mix and mingle as they wander from tent to tent, nibbling on local gourmet treasures that are sure to make any palate sing. Feast of Fields is FarmFolkCityFolk’s annual fundraiser. Proceeds support their work year round as they help cultivate a sustainable food system for British Columbia. Tickets are $85 and can be purchased online at www.feastoffields.com as well as at Wellbrook Winery and all Choices Markets stores in Metro Vancouver.

Tickets are also now on sale for the 7th annual Passions event on September 19 at the Dr. Peter Centre. 21 of Vancouver’s tops restaurants are taking part, including Beachside Forno, Cin Cin, Bin 941/942, C Restaurant, Cibo, Crave and Tojo’s. The event will also feature a selection of wines courtesy of New Zealand Wine, beer from R&B Brewing Co., coffee from Mogiana Coffee, and a martini bar provided by 1181. There will be both a live and silent auction, as well as live entertainment throughout the evening by Sangre Morena. Tickets are $200 each and are available at www.drpeter.org or by calling 1.800.656.0713 (only 200 tickets available).

In Season: Crab apples

Tue, 10 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Many of us remember picking crab apples as children - plucking the fruit from the tree and biting into the flesh only to find that these mini apples tasted more like lemons.

Crab apple trees, which actually belong to the rose family, are common in Canadian backyards and orchards. The trees are more often grown for ornamental purposes or as pollinizers in orchards. Less often, crab apple trees are grown for the fruit because their mouth-puckering isn’t exactly. That said, crab apples can be used in several tasty ways, whether it’s to liven a fruity dessert or accompany a summer meal.

Apples are generally classified based on their size. If its diameter exceeds two inches, it’s called an apple. Anything less than two inches in diameter is deemed a crab apple. There are several varieties of crab apple, but the bottom line is the same: crab apples contain a large amount of pectin which is why biting into an uncooked crab apple is nothing like a shiny Red Delicious.

The pectin in crab apples, however, can come in handy: the juice can be used to make a jelly that ranges in colour from light pink to red. The resulting jelly is spicy and robust, the perfect accompaniment to soft cheeses and breads.

Crab apples are also high in acid, which is likely why traditional crab apple recipes involve pickling, then serving alongside hearty meat dishes. Allspice, cinnamon and cloves are often used in the pickling mixture.

In Metchosin, Blue Haze Farm grows two varieties of crab apples, dolgo and hyslop. Dolgo crab apples are available earlier in the season and deep red in colour. Dolgo crab apples are slightly sweet but still possess the distinct tart flavour. Hyslop crab apples are slightly larger than the dolgo variety, and red and yellow in colour. They are available later in the season, around September.

According to the folks at Blue Haze, the resulting flavour of the jelly produced by each variety is similar. Blue Haze recommends calling or emailing ahead of time to ensure that they have the product available for you when you come to pick it up.

Oldfield Orchard and Bakery in Saanich also grows crab apples, which are available beginning in the middle of August until sold out.

If pickles and jellies don’t appeal to you in the middle of summer, enjoy local crab apples in Sea Cider’s Pomona, which is made from frozen crab apples and slowly fermented. The resulting cider is concentrated and sweet. According to Sea Cider, “Pomona is inspired by the Roman Goddess of Apples... a dessert-style cider with citrus and confectionary notes.”

Sea Cider’s Pomona placed silver at the prestigious 2010 Northwest Wine Summit, and Sea Cider was a awarded the bronze medal by EAT Magazine readers in EAT Magazine’s 1st Annual Exceptional Eats! Reader’s Choice Awards in the Favourite Beverage Company Category.

Whether using crab apples for in traditional recipes or in a completely new way, enjoy the tiny apples while they’re fresh and plentiful, from mid August through September.

Health and Honeybees: A Complex Connection

Fri, 6 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

The air around us was specked black with bees as we stood in the lot behind Babe's Honey Farm and watched an apiarist lift honeycomb frames from a box hive. Each frame crawled and dripped with calm yet industrious honeybees, (while my inner child, who'd once been stung inside the mouth by a courageous bee, squirmed at the sight.)

Babe's opened their doors on Sunday, July 25th, as part of the Tour of Farms 2010, and people swarmed to the big yellow headquarters to learn what they could about bees and their honey. The bumbling insects have been big stars in the conversation lately, after all.

Besides being a more or less sustainable practice, extracting honey from honeycomb uses less energy than harvesting sugar from beet or cane, and can often be produced and sold locally, reducing the distance the product travels to get to our pantries. We've been swept away by how naturally honey can heal what ails us (whether a sore throat, a nasty cut, a lack of energy, and possibly hayfever); we're thrilled that chemical-free beeswax candles can out-perform brand name fresheners in the clean air department; and the list of health issues that might be treated or prevented with royal jelly (the secretion bees feed their queen to ensure her a long, fertile life) is overwhelming. It's amazing the way bees overflow with benefits. But are we doing them wrong by indulging?

The fact is the buzz around bees goes deeper than enthusiasm about vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. While I traipse around sucking earthy honey from a straw, Canada's bee population is dropping. Thinking back to the fundamental "birds and bees" lesson anyone can get the idea that the striped insects have a role to play in the cycle of life, but the importance of their role is summed up in Einstein's claim: "If the bee disappeared off the surface of the globe then man would only have four years of life left." Our bees have begun to decline 30% a year for the past four years. No wonder people are talking.

The dialogue about what's harming the hives is shapeless and cloudy, however, making solutions difficult to discern. One issue that's clear is that mites and viruses are being introduced, probably through new colonies being imported. And a virus is too much for a bee to bear when its health has already been compromised by the practices of queen rearing (which often involves inbreeding) and transporting colonies for crop pollination (which limits their food supply to a single, insufficient source). Add pesticides to the mix and you've got a sticky situation.

On the other hand, some theorize that radio waves from mobile phone towers are the major culprit, and petitions have been started to ban the use of cell phones during certain seasons. And then there is the notion that the invaluable insects have been targeted as an act of terrorism.

But if the decline in Canada can be traced at all to low pollen levels, which is a standard theory, then we can help. By doing the dirty job of planting vibrant gardens, we can boost our bees' diets. It seems too pleasant to be useful, doesn't it? But since urban development has obliterated much wild growth, a lot of space is covered by concrete lots or grassy lawns, which just don't compare to native, pollen-rich flowers when it comes to our crucial honeybees.

Another way some people are helping is by building their own hobby hives to help increase pollination and replenish the bee count directly. Though beekeeping isn't for everybody, the experts at the beloved Tugwell Creek's Honey Farm and Meadery in Sooke offer hands-on courses for those interested in maintaining their own colonies, teaching everything from the history of beekeeping to producing your own honey.

Now then, what about honey? Is it our responsibility to forgo the pleasure and benefits of a tart cranberry honey to reduce the pressure put on bees? The answer isn't clear. Just remember when you dip into the honey jar or crunch an apple that it's all connected, and when they hover around your garden, consider it a visit from royalty and wish them luck out there. Oh, and try not to get stung in the mouth. That won't work out well for either of you.

A Sustainable Passion, Part 2

Wed, 4 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Clockwise from top: Pan Roasted Pacific Steelhead Trout over Potato Latke at Trafalgars Bistro, Lemon berry tart with fresh fruit and Elephant Island framboise at Trafalgars Bistro, Paul Croteau Confections at Oakridge Mall, James Coleridge of Bella Gelateria with his hand mixer. Photos by Anya Levykh

This week has been an accidental continuation of last week’s sustainability theme. And it’s been interesting to find that theme creep into areas that I might not have necessarily considered, like macarons, gelato and pickled garlic stems, but such is life.

Farm- and Ocean-Wise

Trafalgars Bistro in Kitsilano is one of those fabulous little neighbourhood joints that, by virtue of being around for 13-odd years, has largely stayed off the media radar, and most undeservedly so. Not only is the menu 100% Ocean Wise, but all of their meat is unmedicated and free-range, and the produce is almost always from British Columbia. And they have Chef Chris Beltrano at the helm. At a recent Ocean Wise dinner, I had a beautiful Qualicum Beach scallop ceviche, marinated in beet, Kushi oyster with pickled garlic stems, as well as a lovely, buttery Salt Spring Island mussel topped with a gratin. Mains included pan roasted Pacific steelhead trout over potato latke with melted leeks and béarnaise, and seared Albacore tuna with poached egg and anchovy-dressed frisee. Most of the produce for the dinner came from farmer Miles Smart of Cherry Lane Farm in Richmond (9571 Beckwith Road | qualicum_tom@hotmail.com), a small urban farm that follows organic practices without attempting certification. Since Trafalgars is part of the Sweet Obsession family, the dessert menu is longer than your arm. We had a lemon berry tart that night, decorated with fresh fruit and Elephant Island framboise. Trafalgars also has a pre-theatre three-course menu for $28 available for order before 6pm, Monday to Saturday.

Macarons, Marshmallows and Soft Salted Caramels, Oh My…

Paul Croteau might be a familiar name for those who frequent the Main Street Farmers’ Market on Wednesdays or dine regularly at Campagnolo or Refuel restaurants. He’s a pâtissier who specializes in the making of French-style macarons, caramels, chocolate balls and authentic marshmallows—not to mention some very nice desserts. In other words, lots of yummy goodies. This past Monday, he opened up a kiosk at Oakridge Mall, by the atrium at the main entrance. I was lucky enough to be their first customer, and filled up on sundry tasties like vanilla-pistachio macarons and the aforementioned soft caramels. Everything is made fresh daily, using natural ingredients. Try toasting the marshmallows over the grill or campfire, or just dunk them into some hot chocolate.

Gelato è molto bello

What could be more “fast food” than gelato in the summer, right? Think again. James and Anna Coleridge of Bella Gelateria in Coal Harbour have decided to bring back slow food gelato in a big way. Their gelateria is the first in Vancouver—the first in North America—to make everything by hand—no buttons, sorry—and from scratch, so no mixes. It takes approximately 12 hours to infuse one of their handmade gelati with the intended flavour, but the taste justifies the means. Most of the ingredients come from local producers and are seasonal and organic. They do, however, import Sorrento lemons from Italy for the quality of the citrus, as well as pistachios from Sicily. And they use Avalon’s organic milk in every batch of gelato (Canadian Springs water for the sorbetto). A chocolate sorbetto I recently tried was deep, dark and creamy. A pistachio gelato was another winner—hail those Sicilian nuts. Gianduja, anyone?

Cooking For Me and Sometimes You: A Parisienne Romance with Recipes

Tue, 3 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Barbara-Jo's Perfect Salade Niçoise, served at a salon lunch at Barbara-Jo's Books to Cooks

In Cooking for Me and Sometimes You: A Parisienne Romance with Recipes, author Barbara-Jo McIntosh, re-affirms being “bien dans sa peau” (comfortable in one’s skin). En français, the term relates often to a woman well beyond the blush of youth who is at ease with her years, her appearance, and her status.

Some years ago, a friend encouraged the Books to Cooks owner to write a book called “Cooking for One”. But for the culinary bookstore owner, the project was too impersonal. She opted for a more literary, closer-to-the-heart (if not home) culinary quest, and decided to spend a month in Paris living, eating and writing about it.

So turning “the knob on the hob to high”, Barbara-Jo crossed the pond to cook for “me” and as it happened on occasion, for a very special “you”.

Many of us only know the Barbara-Jo, the shopkeeper. But in a mere 136 pages we are introduced to the many sides of Barbara-Jo through her Paris and her culinary adventure. There is the career girl who calls at 4:30 am to check up on the bookshop two days in. There is the “successful, single, happy in her own company” woman who delights in her vintage French flat with its comfy bed, and ordering a glass of red wine at lunch in a café, or dining-in with a crab salad, a glass of expensive white wine and a good book, or scouting out solo neighbourhoods and food markets. There is the social Barbara catching up with friends, fellow professionals, in cafes and or sharing a meal at their homes. But mainly there is the romantic whose love affair with Paris, the cooking, and “a brief encounter”, is penned always with sense and sensibility and a not without a touch of wit. One recipe from the Ménage a Trois—three composed salads is after all “best after it has rested for awhile”. Other delightful recipes are a “serves me” simple roast chicken [leg] with a not-at-all sweet orange sauce, the most sensual “serve me and you” scrambled eggs with sautéed cherry tomatoes, and Ginger Poached Pears with Coffee Cream, “inspired by a dessert I didn’t actually enjoy”.

Like Barbara-Jo, Cooking For Me also has a practical side. She uses ingredients (like quality salts, mustards, oils and butter--and a decent bottle of wine) that are wise to have on hand anytime. Espelette Salt, Roquefort and Red Pepper Butter and Lemon Chive Mayonnaise are quick to prepare and kick up any number of dishes.

The book’s grace notes are the “New Yorker” style etchings, the charcoal-grey linen cover, ivory matte pages with their lightly rough edges, and royal purple ribbon bookmark.

At an intimate informal salon luncheon at the bookshop Barbara-jo eased into the afternoon by inviting guests by to share their Paris stories over Roquefort toasts drizzled with honey, a Perfect Salade Nicoise and Apple Armagnac Ice Cream. Elegantly sufficed we trotted off with our copies of Cooking for Me... comfortable in our skins—and in our waistbands.

french apple press $29.95

A Sustainable Passion

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Clockwise from top left: Shannon Ronalds, the driving force behind The School of Fish Foundation; Indonesian tilapia with sockeye roe and a lobster saffron cream; Floating Dining Room view; Bayne Sound scallop, brought raw to the table, and lightly cooked in the shell by the dashi broth.

There is a lot of talk these days about sustainable seafood, and what that implies. It’s a complicated subject. A few years back, the idea was that anything wild, as opposed to farmed, was sustainable, specifically anything wild that was caught without producing dolphin by-catch.

Today, that concept has expanded, and farmed seafood—especially when it comes to shellfish like scallops and mussels—has become the new miso aioli of the sustainability world. And while chefs in British Columbia are lauded for their jump onto the Ocean Wise bandwagon, much of the rest of the world is woefully ignorant of not only where their seafood comes from, but what actually classes as sustainable in the first place. Chilean sea bass, anyone?

Enter Shannon Ronalds, the driving force behind The School of Fish Foundation, a non-profit organization that aims to raise money for an endowment fund to teach sustainability in cooking schools. Why should you care about chefs in other countries, you wonder? According to Ronalds, if you teach one person how to cook sustainably, that knowledge doesn’t go much farther than their own family. The average chef, however, cooks hundreds of thousands of meals over the course of their professional life, thus broadening the reach of influence considerably.

In order to raise the funds needed, Ronalds decided to create the world’s first floating dining room, using approximately 1,700 plastic bottles. Why plastic? To draw attention to one of the biggest—and most unknown—threats to the sustainability of our oceans. Our oceans are becoming a collecting ground for discarded plastic, which never completely degrades and which often ends up being mistaken by marine and mammal life for food. One of the largest areas affected is in the area of the subtropical Pacific gyre, a warm-air hub of ocean currents that captures floating debris in its centre. Currently, the plastic discard in the gyre covers an area roughly the size of British Columbia and can extend about 30 metres below the ocean’s surface.

But back to the dining room. It may float on plastic bottles, but the exterior is beautiful, a cedar and pine structure with glass balcony surround, and a marvellous crystal chandelier. The dining table—which came from Ronalds’ dining room, seats 12, and all of the materials used in its construction are renewable, reused, repurposed, or reclaimed. Add in the fine china, crystal, heavy linen tablecloths, and it’s just plain gorgeous. And it only matches the view. This floating barge sits dockside on the water at False Creek, next to C Restaurant’s patio, and looks directly across to Granville Island. This floating covered patio is good to go rain or shine, and the gentle rocking is incredibly soothing.

As for the dinner, it’s a six-course set menu, courtesy of C Restaurant’s Executive Chef Robert Clark, and it’s paired with organic and biodynamic wines. Courses included Indonesian tilapia with sockeye roe and a lobster saffron cream, as well as a stunning, fist-sized Bayne Sound scallop, brought raw to the table, and lightly cooked in the shell by the dashi broth (studded with seaweed and bonito flakes) that was poured tableside. The first course was a pair of flash-frozen spot prawns, chosen precisely because they are out of season, and to show that frozen seafood doesn’t have to be mushy and tasteless. These definitely were neither. The prawns were matched by New Zealand’s Mud House 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, an absolutely amazing find, and a perfect match for the delicate flavour of the spot prawns. And yes, there is even dessert, a local berry “fool,” made with sweet filo and chocolate, and paired with a lovely dessert wine from Tinhorn Creek.

I would encourage anyone to experience this magical evening and support the sustainability of our oceans. The SS Dining Room will only be serving dinner for the next 50-odd nights, and reservations are a must. The dinner is $215 per person, and includes wine pairings with each course. Reservations can be made by calling 778-997-6977 or emailing contact@schooloffishfoundation.org.

www.schooloffishfoundation.org

All about Eggplant

Thu, 29 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Eggplant is commonly used in traditional meals around the world but it may surprise some to know that it’s a summer farm stand staple in Victoria. Eggplant is also surprisingly versatile, making it a wonderful warm weather ingredient: it can be roasted, grilled, braised, stuffed or fried. It can also be served hot or cold, as a salad, antipasti or meal.

Commonly referred to as a vegetable, eggplant is actually a fruit. In fact, depending on the variety, eggplant is considered to be one of the world’s largest berries. To be specific, eggplant comes from the nightshade family, which also includes potatoes, tomatoes and peppers. This handsome fruit has evolved over time around the world to include a variety of colours and shapes, ranging from shades of purple, to green and even white. Eggplant may be long and thin, round, or oblong and bulbous like the glossy royal purple supermarket variety, called Black Beauty.

Working with eggplant requires special care, mostly because the raw product is bitter and spongy. Like any other ingredient, remember that fresh is best. This is due to the fact that its seeds contain compounds (nicotinoid alkaloids) that are actually related to tobacco, which explains the unpleasant flavour. Larger, older eggplants contain more seeds, which results in a flavour that’s increasingly off-putting. If working with an older eggplant, the unpleasant taste can be leeched out by sprinkling some salt on the raw flesh, letting it sit for an hour, then rinsing and patting dry. Older eggplants also tend to have tough skin and may benefit from peeling before use.

Once cooked, though, it’s as if eggplant’s white flesh caramelizes. It has a velvety texture and rich flavour. Eggplant both soaks up and accentuates whatever flavour it’s cooked with. It’s hearty yet delicate, making eggplant a great main ingredient in meatless dishes. Simply noting some of the dishes that eggplant is traditionally used in speaks to the versatility of the fruit. Whether it’s Greek moussaka, Middle Eastern baba ghanoush or French ratatouille, there’s no doubt that eggplant can take either a supporting or starring role in many different meals.

Look for eggplants that are smooth, firm and feel heavy for their size. While eggplant can be found year round in supermarkets, the best product is undoubtedly available in the summer and early fall when it’s freshest. Store whole, uncut eggplant in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for no more than a couple of days.

Several local farms are growing eggplant this year. Dan’s Farm grows the traditional, dark purple Black Beauty variety, while Sun Trio Farm offers an oblong-shaped, purple and white variety. Also look for eggplant from the vendors at your favourite summer market.

Look for eggplant between now and October.

Canada’s Food Day

Mon, 26 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: local chefs gather at Homegrown Café in Chesterfield, ON to celebrate Food Day in 2009.

In 2003, The World’s Longest Barbecue was a national first. City folk, country folk, Canadians all, “gathered” together from all three coasts (That’s right. There are three) to celebrate Canadian beef. Anita Stewart, Food Day founder, had come up with a simple premise: at 6:00 PM “Your Time”, fire up the BBQ, invite some friends and celebrate Canada as a culinary nation. By golly, people from all over the country flamed burgers and T-bones, prime ribs, porterhouses and sirloins. Side dishes sang the praises of beans, corn, and potatoes. Desserts ranged from raspberry pie to blueberry cobbler. And what kind of day would it have been without washing it all down with micro-brews, real cider, and a little VQA vino. Anita invited folks to email her their BBQ stories to post on-line. And they did, by the dozen--restaurateurs, suppliers, growers, farmers and people who just plain like to eat (I noticed a few poiticians’ missives as well). That 6,000 mile long BBQ has evolved into Food Day in honour of nation’s diverse bounty.

I caught up with Anita over a thick grilled Ontario cheddar cheese sandwich a few weeks back. This pioneer of Canada’s food culture was heading full speed toward a day of celebrating Canadian cuisine. She told me that it makes sense for Food Day to happen the first weekend in August because, in most parts of Canada there's a holiday Monday attached. “Since The World’s Longest BBQ I have challenged Canadians to bbq/cook using local/regional ingredients on the Saturday of the August long weekend and share their menus on a dedicated website. Anita says. “Food day, however, is different than other ‘days’’, she continues. “Fathers’ Day, Mothers’ Day and Valentine’s Day are about the eaters…the restaurant customers and their personal celebrations. But this special day is about the farmers and fishers who feed us so very, very well and about our young chefs, their talent, how they innovate and strut their stuff. (This year at least 136 restaurants are on board with Food Day).” Anita championed this new breed of chefs in an interview with the Canadian Tourism Commission. She admires their energy, stamina and passion for creativity, and dedication to connect with the growers and producers. As well, Anita also lauds countryside producers that are coming up with new ventures: whether [humanely] raising a particular breed of animal or a new kind of vegetable. “All sorts of new connections being made. These people are making a difference [to our cuisine.]” says Anita.

Anita really started something back with that 2003 BBQ. This year beef will not be the only star. Cattle will share billing with bison, pork and poultry, salmon and scallops, halibut and haddock. Then there’s the chorus of first-of-the season sweet corn and baby zucchini. Don’t eschew grilling those greens either--romaine lettuce, kale and Swiss chard and bok choy. Berry cobblers will be the grand finale, guaranteed. My goodness! I think I’ve caught Anita’s fever.

Happy Food Day, Canada! (Oh, and don’t forget the beer!)

Join in on July 31st, 2010 for the 8th annual coast-to-coast-to-coast Food Day, to celebrate Canada’s regional diversity, culinary creativity and reputation for throwing an heckuva party! Visit www.foodday.ca to post your Food Day story.

BC Restaurants celebrating Food Day include:

Okanagan:

Waterfront Restaurant & Wine Bar, Kelowna

Summerhill Sunset Bistro, Kelowna

Cedar Creek Terrace Restaurant, Kelowna

Old Vines Restaurant, Quails’ Gate Winery, Kelowna

Local Lounge and Grill, Summerland

Hotel Eldorado, Kelowna

Whistler:

Araxi Restaurant and Bar

Vancouver:

Bishop’s Restaurant

Raincity Grill

Blue Water Café + Raw Bar

Gulf Islands:

Harbour House Hotel & Organic Farm, Salt Spring Island

Vancouver Island:

Stone Soup Inn, Farm Restaurant, B&B, Cowichan

Camille’s Restaurant, Victoria

Locals, Courtney

Sooke Harbour House, Sooke

The Wickanninish Inn & Pointe Restaurant, Tofino

SoBo, Tofino

Radio Canada International’s programme, The Link, has picked up the Food Day ball and an invitation has gone out around the globe to listeners to Cook Canadian on July 31st. This programme is a window on the Canadian experience for tens of thousands of global listeners.

Could’ve Been the Whiskey, Might Have Been the Wine

Sun, 25 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Jeremy McKenzie from Villa Maria Estates, New Zealand.

Twelve years ago Ludo Ducrocq traded his French beret for a tam o’shanter when he became a tour guide at Glenfiddich Distillery Visitor Centre, in Dufftown, Scotland. Captivated by the heather and the barley, Ducrocq immersed himself, really getting to know malt-whisky—well beyond sipping the stuff—from coppersmithing (the stills) to cooperage (the barrels) to blending and distilling, and eventually garnering the title as “Global Ambassador” for William Grant & Sons Whiskey. Hearkening back more than 100 years, Grant’s remains a family-owned and operated distillery producing top-notch blended scotch from serious single malts that include Grant’s own Glenfiddiich and Balvenie. Ducrocq travels the world spreading the history and gospel of Grant’s.

New Zealander Jeremy McKenzie kicked a football around Dublin on a rugby scholarship before embarking on a love affair with wine and a post doctorate degree in Viticulture and Oenology. (Microbiology and Biochemistry were his undergraduate majors). He joined Villa Maria in 2006 after stints in Europe, including one at Chassagne Montrachet. Jeremy holds the post of senior winemaker at VM’s Marlborough facility.

A couple of weeks back PMA (Peter Mielzynski Agency), a major Canadian importer of wine, beer and spirits brought to town both fellows for two separate events.

On a sunny Tuesday Trevor Kallies, food and beverage director for Donnelly Pub Group gathered together selected media at Cinema Public House in honour of Ducroq’s visit.

The affable Ducrocq led us through three whiskeys (fruity Grant’s Family Reserve—their bread and butter Scotch, clean and creamy Ale Cask Reserve, and rich, mellow Sherry Cask Reserve while teaching us the fine art of tasting. (Adding a few drams water will bring forth the whiskey’s various esters). Meanwhile Kallies busied himself behind the bar orchestrating a ‘Bittersweet Symphony’ of strawberry infused Grant’s Sherry Cask, Fernet Branca, honey syrup and a dash of Angostura aromatic bitters. Part martini, part Manhattan the smoky cocktail is featured at Cinema Public House until the end of July.

For more information on Grant’s, visit www.grantswhisky.com.

A couple of days on, Jeremy McKenzie stopped by on his North American mission. The tan, fit winemaker (clearly he is still kicking the ball around) zoomed in on three wines from the Villa Maria portfolio--Riesling 2008, Sauvignon Blanc 2009 and Pinot Noir 2007, over an Asian inspired lunch at Oru in Fairmont Pacific Rim while we wine and food types zeroed in the wines’ affinity for sweet-and-salt flavours. Though intended for a heart of palm salad the intense stone apple/peach/lime flavours and zesty finish of the Villa Maria Riesling partnered perfectly with rich ginger nuanced sablefish, while cutting through the salt and fat of a miso butter sauce. On the other hand the herb and gooseberry notes in the youthful, exuberant Sauvignon Blanc, aimed for the fish, fared better with hearts of palm spiked with grapefruit, coconut and cilantro. The Pinot Noir proved a perfect match for crispy duck thigh--its cherry/spice/earth and fine-grain tannins riffing on the sweet briny wakame (seaweed) pea-shoots and the bird’s juicy flesh. Villa Maria Wines balance Asian-inspired dishes beautifully—light enough to avoid overwhelming delicate flavours, complex, and with just the right weight to flatter them.

Villa Maria Riesling (went well with all three dishes) $16.99 LDB

Sauvignon Blanc $18.99 (LDB)

Pinot Noir Private Bin $24.99 (LDB)

For more info on wines, visit www.villamaria.co.nz. For info where to buy elsewhere in Canada visit Peter Mielzynski at www.pmacanada.com.

Pig & Pinot

Fri, 23 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Maryanne Carmack

A pig roast is not for everyone. Slowly cooking a large hog on a rotisserie over a fire pit requires time, planning, and is a lot of work. However, for those brave enough to tackle cooking a whole pig, this becomes an amazing summer celebration event, which you will remember for years. Your friends will be impressed and, even more importantly, your taste buds will be tantalized! The sight and smell of a whole pig roasting over a fire pit is unforgettable and creates an air of celebration and good times. The glazed, golden skin is beautiful and delicious. It is truly a feast for all our senses!

On Canada day, July 1st 2010, Rocky Creek Winery celebrated with close friends and family by roasting a pig raised locally from Quist Farm in the Cowichan Valley. It was a splendid chilly evening watching the little piggy turn round and around until it cooked to perfection. People crowded around the spit to keep warm, and to watch the flavors ooze out of the crackly skin. You could smell the crackling roasting on the open fire for miles.

Rocky Creek Winery is a family run boutique winery in the heart of Cowichan Bay. Linda and Mark Holford – a husband and wife team, believe in sustainability, and manage their wines to be as eco-friendly as possible. The key to their success is their dedication to making the highest quality wines from grapes grown on Vancouver Island - all are BC VQA. It expands over 7 acres with 2 vineyards. In their four years of operation, they have received numerous medals.

Mark is an environmental engineer and for him “going green” is just standard practice. Their winemaking process involves as little intervention possible, using egg whites and bentonite for fifing. They are the first winery in Western Canada to use a new closure for their wines called Zork. It is recyclable and re-useable and does not require a corkscrew. It is designed for air permeability to enhance the wines even further and reduces waste.

The first ever Rocky Creek Winery pig roast was a grand success. Linda and Mark plan to make this an annual event open to all.

Rocky Creek Winery has a gift shop, tasting room and a picnic area where people can purchase the wines by the glass and enjoy them while overlooking the gardens and vineyard.

Wines that are available:

Ortega 2009

Pinot Gris 2009

Robin’s Rose 2009

Pinot Noir 2008

Wild Blackberry 2008

Katherine’s Sparkle 2009

Awards: 25 medals in 5 years – 5 Gold

Klahowya!

Wed, 21 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Clockwise from left: Justin Hall of NK’MIP Cellars and Executive Chef Karen Barnaby of The Fish House,Cold-smoked bison carpaccio, Cedar-planked salmon

credit: Anya Levykh

The Fish House in Stanley Park, I am mildly ashamed to admit, is a place that I have not frequented in recent years, apart from the occasional visit for afternoon tea. But it’s a place that was brought back to my attention last week by their recently launched Klahowya menu, which honours the Klahowya First Nations Village in Stanley Park. The word itself can mean “welcome,” “how are you?” or “goodbye” in the Chinook Jargon (not to be confused with the Chinook language) of the Pacific Northwest.

It really shouldn’t have taken a new menu for me to venture here. Executive Chef Karen Barnaby—and her renowned cookery—is worth a much longer trip than the 15 minutes I had to drive to reach the park. And, as an added bonus, the parking is still cheaper than in the rest of the downtown core.

As for the menu, The Fish House has teamed up with Nk’Mip [pronounced “in-ka-meep”] Cellars to create the wine pairings for the $48 three-course table d’hôte. Starter was a lovely cold-smoked bison carpaccio, topped with fresh and compote mountain cranberry (or lingonberry), as well as pickled milkweed pods. The pods were a revelation. Picked when they’re young and green, these are then brined in cider, and have a soft, white fleshy interior that contrasts perfectly with the crisp exterior. You can find them at Hills Foods in Coquitlam, and they make a great change from the typical gherkin/cippolini route. This was paired with Nk’Mip’s Winemakers Series 2008 Pinot Noir ($12), a deep red quaff of cherry and spice with a nice, soft finish.

Main was cedar-planked sockeye salmon (wild, of course), with a cedar-scented beurre blanc. Moist, and perfectly cooked, it was topped with sea asparagus, which I’ve been seeing everywhere lately—the season is almost over, so get some while you can! Sides included garlic mashed potatoes, mashed Kabocha squash, asparagus, golden beet, and kale. Wine pairing was the 2008 Riesling ($9) from the same series as the Pinot. This varietal wouldn’t have been my first choice to pair with salmon, but the crisp acidity of the wine really balanced the richness of the dish perfectly.

Dessert was my favourite course. A creamy elderberry swirl cheesecake sat over a crunchy hazelnut crust, topped with fresh raspberries and mountain cranberries. I could only pick at it, as I was pretty topped up by that point, but I am definitely going back for more.

The menu is available until September 6, and reservations are recommended.

8901 Stanley Park Drive | 604.681.7275 | www.fishhousestanleypark.com

Restaurant Deals

DB Bistro Moderne is offering their signature steamed Quadra Island mussels and frites, plus a nice cold beer, for $20 all summer long. The restaurant has also dropped their regular menu prices to reflect the recent implementation of the HST, so you don’t have to pay more.

2551 West Brodway | 604.739.7115

Here’s Your Chance to TASTE Victoria!

Sat, 17 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Photo credit: Maryanne Carmack

To view the EAT's complete TASTE photo gallery, click here.

Day 1 of Taste Victoria is complete – save for the after parties and off the map Tastes that are undoubtedly happening all over town. I, however, have made it home to my couch, to unwind, reflect on Tastes I’ve had and look ahead to a weekend of Tastes to come.

I started off this morning with a Riedel Tasting at Vista 18. This industry-only fundraiser benefitted industry, with all proceeds going directly towards the BC Hospitality Foundation. Local Riedel agent David Sanders donated his time, plus 4 Riedel glasses for each participant, and led the enthusiastic crowd through a game of musical glasses. Four BC wines were in turn tasted from 5 different glasses, with wildly differing results. Laughing Stock Vineyard’s opulent Chardonnay was big and creamy butter in the Chardonnay glass, but bitter and thin when tasted from the Riesling glass. Averill Creek’s Pinot Noir was incredibly perfumed, deep and balanced in the PN glass, but smoky and a little sour in the Chardonnay glass. David entertained throughout the 90 minute seminar, with anecdotes about the Riedel clan (now in it’s 11th generation of glass production) and glassware care (linen or cotton to polish please). The BC Hospitality Foundation provides support for people within the hospitality community who are coping with extraordinary costs arising from a serious health crisis. The Foundation also awards scholarships and bursaries to students enrolled in Hospitality programs.

From then it was down the block to Crystal Gardens and the Trade Tasting. The event was, as always, very well organized. Spacious layout, gracious volunteers, bright and live jazz lit, it’s a delight to taste here. In add ition to the colourful EAT Magazine booth (hi crew!), more than 30 local wineries, cideries and distilleries were in attendance. And the Main Event, in the evening, added a couple dozen local restaurants and producers to the mix.

Some of my top Tastes:

Artisan SakeMaker – Junmai Sparkling Sake is bright cucumber, lemon, crisp and fresh with great effervescence.

Blue Mountain Vineyard – Blue Mountain Brut NV is a stunner – crisp green apple, with bread notes and bright citrus. Great balance and length – no spitting!

Dunham and Froese Estate Winery – Amicitia White was one of the best of the day. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Viognier from this Biodynamic and Organic Oliver winery. Zippy citrus, a creamy full body and great length – lively and refreshing.

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery - Sparkling Gewurztraminer is hard to find but fun to drink. Perfumed lychee and spice with an off dry pink grapefruit finish.

Seven Stones Winery – Cabernet Franc was elegant plum, raspberry, cocoa and coffee – with a spicy finish.

Vista D’oro Farms & Winery – D’oro, their flagship – Marechal Foch, Merlot and Cab Franc fortified with green walnut brandy is as delish as I remember, with a sweet and deep earthiness and a filling and rich mouthfeel. And their Pinot Noix is a new delight – Pinot Noir fortified with their walnut brandy in a Sherry style – a great woody dusty nutty oloroso style drink, finishing with a kiss of sweet. Yum.

8th Generation Vineyard – Riesling is such a pleasure – vibrant citrus, apple, zesty lime and mineral.

Alderlea Vineyards – Bacchus is a perfumed, pure pear, citrus and balanced example of this Island classic

Painted Rock Estate - Syrah is rich and peppery dark fruit with a big modern smooth style.

Averill Creek Vineyard – Pinot Gris is lovely, as always – creamy pear and crisp lemon, with a great, rich mouthfeel.

On Day 2 of Taste

by Treve Ring

I ventured outside of my realm of alcoholic beverages and into the calm and tranquil realm of Tea Master Daniela Cubelic. Daniela is the owner of Silk Road Tea, and tasting with someone of her knowledge and practice is a rare treat.

Daniela led the sold out (and then some) crowd through the ins, outs, method, etiquette and history of tea tasting. I learned that colour can tell you as any secrets about tea as it can about wine, and that terroir – a topic so familiar to me – enters into the tea world as well. I discovered the buttery creaminess of the Purple Bamboo Green Tea from China, the floral and nutty Golden Lily of Heaven Oolong Tea from Taiwan, and the structured, yet fruity delicacy of Northern India’s Makaibari Darjeeling. Everything poured was of exceptional quality, and while these premium leaves were probably not understood to the fullest by us non ‘tea-geeks’, I very much appreciated that I most likely wouldn’t have the opportunity to taste a lineup like this again. Daniela is passionate and genuine about sharing her knowledge, and my wine-worn tastebuds are looking forward to cross training with a cuppa.

Silk Road, 1624 Government Street.

Day 3 - The Swine and The Vine

by Treve Ring

My walk along the causeway this afternoon was pretty typical for a summer Saturday. Sidewalks overflowing with camera wielding tourists, lemonade peddlers, horse drawn princess carriages, jockeying pedicabs and tooting packs of scooter geeks. But then, I smelled it. Bacon? Close. BBQ? Closer. Wafting down the driveway of The Hotel Grand Pacific was the unmistakable scent of PORK in the best possible way. A welcome tradition now, The Swine and the Vine turn HGP Executive Chef Rick Choy, Banquet Chef Ian Goard and Restaurant Chef Michael Minshull into pit and pig masters for a day. A whole Sloping Hills pig was roasted on the patio, and the scrum of the fork wielding, sold out crowd waiting for cracklins was intense! At the first shatter of the skin, plates were at the ready – for good reason. Qualicum Beach’s Sloping Hills Pork  is well known for its exceptional quality, and lusted after by chefs and foodies. Their animals are treated with the utmost care, have open access to the outdoors at any time and fed better than most North Americans. Basically these pigs are loved from birth through to BBQ.

Numerous other dishes accompanied the porcine feast – there were house made terrines, pates, sausages, mustards, slaws and more. And to wash it all down? Select local wines, ciders, mead and spirits. Tugwell Creek’s crisp and honey kissed Harvest Melomel was a hit with the Smoked Pulled Pork Sliders, and Averill Creek’s bright and fresh Gewurztraminer made a match with Braised Spiced Pork in Pastry. I would like to pack their Housemade Pancetta Club, with arugula and Fairburn Farm bocconcini in my lunch box every day, and wash it down with Sea Cider’s deeply satisfying Rumrunner. I was starting to feel like I pigged out (ha!), but Victoria Spirits impressive new Left Coast Hemp Vodka helped clear the passageway for dessert. Freshly made strawberry shortcakes with a glass of Venturi Schulze Brut Naturel was the perfect ending for my summer aft with patio and pig.

Day 4 - Pranzo at La Piola

by Alyssa Belter

The doors were flung wide open at La Piola on Saturday afternoon, letting a trickle of sunlight and the faint murmur of traffic from Quadra Street through. As part of the recent TASTE festivities, chef Cory Pelan served a laid-back, long Italian lunch known as “Pranzo”.

While some "Pranzos" pummel the stomach with as many as fifty dishes, Cory went with a pared down, three course approach. Guests settled in next to friends and strangers, and introductions were soon underway. A quick camaraderie developed among the diners at my table, and, in no time at all, we were abuzz with talk of truffles, wood-burning ovens, and local food haunts.

Corks were popped and flutes of fruity but dry Vigneti Zanatta Brut Tradizionale were passed around. Platters of antipasto and plates of Caprese salad circulated and diners unabashedly dug in to serve themselves. There were slivers of Italian salami; rough-hewn, house made Finocchio sausage; cured olives and slices of Pecorino Toscano. The pickled vegetables from Madrona Farm, which included rose-stained radishes, slightly picante carrots and startlingly scrumptious patty pan squash, were a hit at my table (once the lunch was over, we pressed Cory for details). The beautiful, classic Caprese salad with gleaming Sun Wing tomatoes, Fairburn mozzarella, and fresh basil was slicked with Italian olive oil and Venturi Schulze balsamic vinegar. The soft, milky tufts of mozzarella and juicy tomatoes combined perfectly with crisp, salt-and-peppered crostini.

As we relaxed in the glow of good food, the main pasta course was served forth. Fettuccine with peas and prosciutto was lightly coated in a white cream sauce with a hint of nutmeg and garlic. It was paired with a refreshing Ortega from Vigneti Zanatta. The pop of fresh peas, the soothe of sweet cream and the smack of salty prosciutto sent the table murmuring. Meanwhile, a classic puttanesca was briny with olives, anchovies and capers, and topped with a shower of cheese. Its robust tomato sauce was expertly matched with Salt Spring Vineyard’s Millotage, an interesting mix of Marechal Foch and Leon Millot grapes. All the pasta, made in house, had a pleasantly toothsome quality.

As we prepared ourselves for dessert, Alison Spriggs from The Land Conservancy and Nathalie Chambers of Madrona Farm spoke about, and offered heartfelt thanks for, the recent efforts which have protected the farm for perpetuity. Nathalie enthusiastically shared how the idea for preserving the farm came into existence, her passion for biological diversity, and the importance of farmland as a resource for food sustainability in Victoria. She also praised the field-to-table philosophy embodied by chefs, like Cory, who use produce picked minutes away at Madrona. In her words they "do things to our vegetables we can't figure out!"

Thankfully, dessert was not a family-style affair or blood may have been shed at my table. As it were, I had to keep a close eye on my decadent and delicious flourless chocolate cake (made only with eggs, butter and chocolate!) topped with a smattering of raspberries and a drizzle of caramel sauce. It was savoured bite by bite with sips of Salt Spring Vineyard's Blackberry Port.

It was a wonderful meal, even more so because of the fine company, and although it was nearly time for dinner as we exited, it was over all too soon.

The 6th Annual Organic Islands Festival and Sustainability Expo

Fri, 16 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Maryanne Carmack, Lotus Photography

When Deb Morse first began feeding the idea of a greener earth, her greatest inspiration came from Walden, the meditation on nature by Henry David Thoreau. "Husbandry was once a sacred art; but it is pursued with irreverent haste and heedlessness by us... We have no festival." Not only did she understand the need for conservation and sustainable behavior, but she recognized that the planet should not merely be dutifully protected. It should be celebrated.

On July 10th and 11th this year, I headed to Glendale Gardens for the 6th annual Organic Islands Festival and Sustainability Expo, the ever growing, evolving manifestation of Morse's vision. Along with a throng of eco-conscious Victorians, I garnered solutions for how to "Live Green and Buy Local" from 150 vendors and visionaries while wandering between apricot trees and ornamental beds of grass.

As I moved from one booth to the next, taking in lessons on energy conservation and tasters of raw goji berries, a common thread became apparent among all the exhibitors. Not only were they all striving for the same goal - a long, healthy future for our planet - but they had each embodied Morse's idea of celebration. The enthusiasm was contagious as people talked about the solutions they'd developed.

Someone at the Level Ground Trading booth beamed with praise for the farmers he worked with, and loved hearing what people liked best about the various sampled blends. The ladies from Sea Cider Farm & Ciderhouse smiled broadly with delight over their sunflower seeds, which had been delicately flavored with local honey and cider instead of the traditional sodium-rich seasoning.

And not far down the row, the owners and operators of Sunset Bay Honey Farms detailed their secret for purer honey: Keeping their bees chemical-free by raising them deep in the Cowichan Valley, removed from the reach of pesticides. However, the folks from Woodwynn Farms believed so deeply in their organization that they hardly had to say a word. "I don't know what they're selling us in stores," one of them said, "but this is celery." I was offered a bright, bittersweet stalk to chew on, and he allowed itto speak for itself. It crunched the way only straight-from-the-garden produce can crunch. It still tasted like the earth. It tasted green, and was simply, undeniably, all around good.

A woman behind the table called the indescribable element TLC. It turns out that their endeavor isn't only aimed at a better tomorrow for the earth, but they are working on society, as well. She explained that Woodwynn's crops are farmed by individuals who struggle with homelessness and addiction, who cultivate the land as a form of therapy and re-integration, and she believed the difference could be tasted. Others believed it too, leaning over from neighboring booths to watch me take my first bite of fresh Woodwynn chard.

As the day went on and the sun got hotter, it became more and more apparent that Morse and her team were doing something right. The event had developed a pulse of its own. Aside from learning about change, people were engaging the landscape and enjoying themselves. They gathered in the grass to listen to bands on the main stage, and sampled cold, organic beer, wine, and vodka at the Green Drinkers station. Children ran free in the designated Children's Village, and couples sought shade in the endless Zen Garden. There was gaiety, there was revelry, there was merrymaking. The Organic Islands Festival was an organic festival, in every sense.

Simply in Season: A book review

Fri, 16 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Whitecap has done it again; another beautiful glossy cookbook that celebrates Canadian cuisine in that way that makes you want to hop right into the kitchen and start chopping. This time the genius behind the recipes is Tony de Luca, renowned chef from his two Niagara-on-the-Lake restaurants: The Old Winery Restaurant and de Luca’s Wine Country Restaurant. With a deep respect for those who farm the land, a sensitivity to the seasons and inspiration taken straight from Niagara’s wine country, each month-based chapter provides an exciting variety of recipes. With many parallels to be drawn between the Niagara wine region and BC’s own vineyards, I look forward to trying to find the perfect BC equivalent to use in these wine-inspired dishes.

Simply in Season, 12 Months of Wine Country Cooking (Whitecap: June 2010)

The Week of Eating Dangerously

Wed, 14 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Clockwise from the left: Refuel Chilled Pea Soup, Duck Breast and Gnocchi at Wild Rice, Roaming Dragon's Don Letendre

All photos by Anya Levykh

Ah, summer, a time to indulge in fresh produce, light eating and healthy living—or not. If my eating pattern over the last week is any example, this will be a summer of rich braises, much gobbling and a bit too much of the hooch.

It all started innocently enough. I met a friend for lunch at Refuel to indulge in Pemberton burgers and meatball sandwiches (okay, perhaps not so innocently, after all). To offset the inevitable guilt, we both ordered the chilled English pea soup to start, which turned out to be one of the best chilled soups I have eaten in a goodly while. The light, just-picked-from-the-garden flavour of the puree was laced with super-fresh olive oil, and finished with a creamy stick of ricotta custard and housemade biscuit (great for dipping).

I then moved on to the dry-aged burger with cheddar and bacon, backed by a large side of poutine, while my buddy had the open-faced meatball sandwich. We could have stopped there quite easily, except for news about a new pastry chef, one Paul Croteau by name, who will be supplying both Refuel and sister restaurant Campagnolo with their desserts, specializes in macarons, and also sells his goods at the Main Street Terminal Farmers’ Market on Wednesday afternoons. I had the strawberry tart, which featured a perfect puff pastry base, vanilla cream and a mouth-puckering lemon sorbet.

That would normally have been my stopping point for the day, but I had a dinner to go to that very night. Wild Rice has launched a new “hawker’s fare” menu, focusing on dim sum-style offerings, all priced at $6, as well as more substantial dishes for sharing. Our group tried out almost all of the dim sum and a couple of larger plates, and finished everything with positively indecent haste—to the point that 45 minutes after we had arrived, we all looked at each other blankly and said, “Did we just eat all of that?” Yes, if truth be told, we did.

Items like Sloping Hill pork and spot prawn siu mai and smoked tofu congee are rich, hearty offerings that belie their $6 price tags. The monster basket of tofu alone, all silky interior with crispy skin, is worth going back for, but it was the spot prawn toast that stole my heart—and wallet. Crispy, sesame-crusted triangles of mashed and fried prawn are served with a bit of chilli oil for dipping. I definitely gobbled more than my fair share, and ended up ordering another set to take home—but they never made it out of the car, as the crumbs on the passenger seat can attest to. Another stunner was one of the share plates, featuring Yarrow Meadows duck breast with bitter orange peel and jus, sliced and crisped, sided with duck liver gnocchi. The latter had a richness and texture that really worked, and could be served all by themselves.

We also sampled some of the new cocktails (this be the hooch), including the Twisted Fashion, an interesting blend of Maker’s Mark, muddled orange, orange bitters and ginger syrup, and Spiked Ginger, which was the hands-down winner with its white rum, ginger-orange syrup, sambal, mint and lime.

And as if all of that wasn’t enough, the following Friday night had me roaming the Richmond Night Market, and getting into a smackdown with Roaming Dragon’s Chinese pork belly sliders on fresh mantou buns, their chilled mushroom salad with seaweed and citrus-braised daikon, and the lychee and basil lemonade. Like most night market vendors, the food is a steal, at $6 per item, or two for $10. Unlike other vendors, however, Roaming Dragon has Don Letendre, former EC at Elixir Bistro, onboard as menu consultant and chef-in-charge, and the food more than lives up to the hype.

As for me, I am resolved not to eat any rich food this week, whatsoever—which should make next week’s column interesting. Well, except for that upcoming dinner at Pourhouse, or the menu tasting at The Fish House, or that return trip to the night market for more pork and lemonade, not to mention the potato curls on a stick and the deep-fried cheesecake and the doughnuts and…oh, whatever. See you next week!

Jessica Sedlock: Vegan On the Go

Mon, 12 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Jessica Sedlock is a young local athlete with Olympic dreams of running for Canada and changing the way the world eats; she is a vegan on the go! When most of us think of a vegan diet, we think of a somewhat suspect, spartan diet. Jessica, however, sees it as a pathway to strength, endurance, and a long and healthy life.

What is a vegan? A vegan eats a plant-based diet of pure foods – no meat, eggs or dairy; a vegan eats nothing of animal origin. Being a vegan is a lifestyle and philosophical choice, rather than just a diet. One can become a vegan for ethical reasons, for environmental factors, or for better health.

Jessica Sedlock grew up in Sidney and graduated from Parkland Secondary School. At age twelve, she was introduced to the biathlon, a sport that allowed her to test her ability both mentally and physically. In 2005, when the time came to try out for the National Biathlon Team, Jessica entered the race unheralded and unnoticed. On the first day of the trials she placed just behind one of the senior athletes and was immediately in the spotlight. Following another solid performance the next day, Jessica officially earned a spot on the National Team, and she never looked back.

Last year, Jessica retired from Biathlon and transitioned into competitive distance running with a goal of competing in the Olympics. During her transition from biathlon to distance running, Jessica started listening to her body, reading nutritional literature and researching a vegan diet. Jessica considers herself a pioneer; one of the few athletes in the world whose diet is 100% plant based. She claims this to be the golden secret not only to maximize athletic performance but also to be happy, healthy and sustain the beautiful environment around us. “I have been in the running world for less than a year and I have heads turning like there is no tomorrow. People keep asking me what I eat! I am always pleased to share with them that I am on a 100% organic, vegan, whole food diet, which seems to be increasing in popularity pretty quickly. But for many of my meat-eating competitors this leaves them even more puzzled!”

Jessica knows that diet is key to performance. The cells in our bodies are built from what we eat. Jessica explains it very simply: “Would you rather be made from a bright, light and alive apple or from a slice of heavy, greasy pizza? One thing I always ask myself is how am I going to feel after eating this? Would I go for a run? Is this food going to energize me, or is it going to make me want to sleep?”

Being an athlete, Jessica has always been very aware of what her body needs. “In order to perform well, you must feel well. If there is something that doesn’t feel good, it is your body telling you there is something wrong”. To Jessica, it doesn’t matter what a book, or a doctor tells her, at the end of the day if her body asks for something, she listens. Jessica noticed that at race time her body rejected meat, due to stress. It took too long to digest and simply didn’t supply her with sufficient energy. She realized that if a certain food wasn’t helping her in times of stress, then how was it helping her body at all. The year Jessica decided to go vegan, she went against strong recommendations from both of her coaches and is happy she did. The coaches were shocked at her results at the end of the season. “Sometimes you have to go against the grain to get what you want”.

Athletes are always looking for the next big thing to give them an extra edge. Just flip through a fitness magazine and you'll be bombarded with programs, products, and supplements that promise to revolutionize your athletic performance. Many highlight their active ingredients and the scientific research proving why their product is so good. Choosing to be a vegan has many health benefits. Vegetarians and vegans live an average 5-10 years longer than meat-eaters. As adults, vegetarians usually weigh 15-20 pounds less than people that eat meat. Vegetarians are 50% less likely to get heart disease than meat-eaters. Research has shown that even older people who switch to a vegetarian diet can prevent - and even reverse - many chronic ailments.

I asked Jessica what it means for her to be a vegan. “To me, it’s not about being vegan, but about what a vegan diet can do for my performance and the world around me. After becoming vegan for my body, I realized that the diet also supports every major cause that I am passionate about. I do not think for a second that this happened just by chance and do believe that it’s been an evolution, shaping the person that I have become. I may not be the girl that knows everything, but I certainly am the girl that tries everything”.

Although Jessica’s immediate goal is to participate in the Olympics, it is not her life goal, which is to train at her best and to have fun everyday. To her, this is the real reward.

To try one of Jessica's favourite energy boosters, check this week's recipe box.

Tofino Buzz

Sat, 10 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

A stunning day for a festival

photo by Treve Ring

Once again the sun shone on the Tofino Food and Wine Festival, although we haven’t seen much of it since! Some 700 guests, media and participants attended Grazing in the Gardens, the main event, on June 6. Making their way through the Tofino Botanical Gardens, festival goers tasted the goods from 22 food purveyors and 43 wineries and breweries, enjoying live music and even a body painting display. EAT was a co-sponsor for the festival, which included a weekend of great food and wine events from June 5-7.

Just prior to the festival, I had the chance to join a couple of other media folk at a dinner hosted by Chef Randy Jones of Long Beach Lodge Resort. Jones, who took over the kitchen at LBL April 15, took us on a tour of B.C. during this “coming out” dinner. He featured Vancouver Island products such as birch syrup seared Qualicum Beach scallops, local seafood and Out Landish Guild shellfish in a coastal potlatch, and a hothouse tomato and Little Qualicum Blue Claire salad with Babe’s wildflower honey and Nanoose Edibles greens. Jones also threw in some of his favourite mainland standbys as well, like Peace River bison osso buco and Empire Valley beef. Thanks to server Marc Boulanger, the courses were beautifully accompanied with wine pairings. www.longbeachlodgeresort.com 250-725-2242

Local chefs Andrew Springett of Black Rock Resort and Lisa Ahier of SoBo Restaurant will be representing the west coast as part of the planning team for the Canadian Chef’s Congress Sept. 11-12 at Providence Farm in the Cowichan Valley. This year, the conversation at the congress will focus on the restaurant industry’s effect on ocean health with Dr. David Suzuki as the keynote speaker. www.canadianchefcongress.blogspot.com

The Tofino Public Market is in full swing on the Village Green each Saturday from 10am-2pm until September. Make it, bake it, gather it or grow it is the theme, and there are always delicious treats to be had. Julie Lomenda of Six Hundred Degrees Bread and Bakery (www.sixhundreddegrees.com) is there without fail with her variety of breads, cookies, scones, and granola. Also, look for homemade perogies and a farm stand from the Courtenay/Comox area with fruits, vegetables and plants. I love to grab a snack before checking out the other artisan goods.

There seems to be a lot of energy being focused right now on locally grown produce, something that’s not always been easy to accomplish on the rainy west coast. Jennifer Heckert of the Tofino Community Food Initiative has been working with the chefs at Shelter Restaurant on the restaurant’s backyard garden, planting a variety of vegetables and herbs for use in daily specials. Similarly, Chef Margot Bodchon of the Calm Waters Dining Room at the Tin Wis Best Western Resort makes use of their onsite gardens in her kitchen and Doug from Medicine Farms near Ucluelet regularly supplies restaurants and stores with his variety of organic greens. Check out the TCFI blog at www.tofinofood.blogspot.com for up-to-date information on eat local happenings.

Tart Treats

Fri, 9 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

When enjoying the wealth of fresh berries this summer, try thinking beyond the usual suspects. Without a doubt, strawberries, blueberries and blackberries are seasonal staples, but what about some of the less common farm stand offerings, like the gooseberry? This grape-like fruit can make a pleasantly tart addition to summer meals and desserts.

Most people who have either heard of or tried a gooseberry often think of the bright orange variety with smooth skin and a papery husk. This fruit is related to the tomato and actually called a Cape gooseberry. Cape gooseberries can be found in most grocery stores, but northern varieties that are grown in Canada are slightly different and less common. Gooseberries are most readily available in European countries like England, where they grow profusely on low, scraggly bushes. Vancouver Island’s climate is ideal for the plant, so it may seem surprising that the gooseberry isn’t as popular as it is in Europe.

Often compared to currants (they’re from the same family), the gooseberry’s colour ranges from light green to red. The fruit has a distinct prickly skin that is thin and translucent. High in Vitamin C, gooseberries are notably astringent and pair well with sweeter fruits in cooked desserts such as tarts, pies and jams. Also try using gooseberries in savory dishes alongside meat like pork, such as in a relish or a chutney.

To prepare, cut the stem and tail off the berry. If desired, you may then eat the berry whole. Store gooseberries in the refrigerator and eat promptly while they are fresh. Avoid washing until ready to use. The whole berry may be frozen but tend to lose their texture if thawed completely after freezing. Smaller, firm green berries are more tart than their riper counterparts, and are commonly added to jams because of their high pectin content.

Although rare, gooseberries are occasionally grown locally on farms. While a variety of growers used to produce gooseberries, many have stopped due to the difficulty associated with picking berries from a thorny plant.

Some local wineries, such as Morningstar Farm’s MooBerry, feature an award-winning gooseberry wine that is both sweet and tangy. Travelling north of Victoria, look for fresh gooseberries at Fallen Fir Ranch in Parksville or Dudink’s Farm near Nanaimo. On the mainland, Bissett Farms and Emma Lea Farms both offer u-pick gooseberries.

Look for gooseberries at markets and farm stands until the end of August.

The Swine and the Vine

Thu, 8 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Photos by Jill Thomas. left to right, top to bottom: Chef Rick Chow, Chef Ian Goard, Chef Goard slicing pancetta

“I dreamed of a better beverage,” says Emory Haines, Director of Operations at the Hotel Grand Pacific in Victoria.

Emory grew up in a very small town in the Appalachians where his family often hosted animated pig roasts. The pork was paired with his grandfather’s infamous whiskey.

When Emory left home he traveled the globe tasting and toasting with some the best wine producers on the planet. He is passionate about ‘the vine’ and enjoys attending and hosting wine makers dinners. However one evening after several glasses of very good wine, it occurred to him that his childhood pig roasts were often more fun and thus the idea for The Swine and the Vine event emerged.

On the afternoon of Saturday July 17th, there will be a whole hog on a spit on the seaside terrace at the Hotel Grand Pacific. The pork will be paired with BC wines, apple cider and mead. Emory says, “The goal is to create a festive, informal fine food and wine event that gets people outside and away from the starched linens.”

The hotel chefs will be serving sustainable heritage Berkshire pork from Sloping Hill Farms in Qualicum Beach. Executive Chef, Rick Choy says, “The meat is juicier and has a lot more flavour than the pork you find in the grocery store. When you eat it you’ll say wow.” This is the same pork that Choy serves up in his east meets west ‘Dim Sum and Then Some’ menu featured at the hotel restaurant every weekend. Choy will brine the pig for three days prior to the event in sea salt, star anise, juniper berries, fresh herbs and lemon.

The roasted pork will be served fresh off the spit with a variety of house made sausages, terrines and pates. Banquet Chef Ian Goard is thrilled that the event provided him the opportunity to try his hand at charcuterie. There are currently five different types of meat curing in the hotel storerooms including Alsatian salami, Tuscan sausage, French saucisson and sopressata, a spicy Italian dry cured salami. A pork belly has been cured into a savory sweet perfectly fattening pancetta.

Pork traditionally pairs well with apples and Food and Beverage manager Janis Goard will be pouring locally produced apple cider from Sea Cider. Cider is a fermented drink, like wine, but made from apples not grapes. Sea Cider grows over sixty varieties of certified organic apples. They also purchase fruit from a variety of local growers including a non-profit urban agriculture organization called Lifecycles that harvests apples from urban backyard trees that might otherwise go to waste.

If cider isn’t your cup of tea you can wash your pork down with honey wine, or mead, produced by the Tugwell Creek Meadery and Honey farm in Sooke. If mead isn’t your thing you can enjoy an actual cup of tea from Victoria’s Silk Road Tea Company. There will also be a variety of well-paired BC Wines to sample.

BY Jill Thomas, Editor of Island Chef.ca & owner of Rock Salt Restaurant and Cafe on Salt Spring Island

Swine and the Vine is one of many great foodie events taking place in Victoria between July 15th and 18th as part of Taste: Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine. Check out their website for event details and to purchase tickets.

Shredded Star Anise Pork in Puff Pastry

2lbs Slopping Hill pork butt

12 cups water

4oz sherry wine

1 cup soya sauce

2 Tablespoons dark soya sauce

2 Tablespoons salt

4 oz sugar

4 oz ginger

6 stalks green onion

1 Tablespoon five spices 2 star anise

Mix all ingredients and then braise with the pork until it is tender.

Let the pork cool and then shred with your hands.

Pastry Filling

25 pieces julienne shitake mushroom

8 oz julienne jicama

1 clove garlic

1 Tablespoon ginger

2 Tablespoons chopped green onion

4 oz of the braising liquid

Sweat the ginger and garlic, then add the mushroom , jicama and pork.

Add the braising liquid slowly allowing the pork to absorb the liquid.

Let the pork cool.

Puff Pasty

Cut out two circular pieces, each of them 3 inches in diameter, from a puff pastry sheet.

Put a Tablespoon of filling on one of the round pastry and close it with the other.

Egg wash the top and bake at 350 degrees until warm and golden brown.

A Summer in France

Tue, 6 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Left to right, top to bottom:Grande Thé at Provence Mediterranean Grill, seared diver scallops roasted campari tomatoes at Le Gavroche, and apple tarte tatin at The Smoking Dog.

All photos by Anya Levykh

So the HST has you sticking close to home this year instead of meandering down the Riviera. You can still enjoy a taste of France all summer long, thanks to these summer deals.

Afternoon Tea à la Provence Mediterranean Grill

Afternoon tea has certainly made a comeback at local cafes and restaurants, but until now, no one has yet thought to offer the French version of this classic mid-afternoon pick-me-up. No sausage rolls or scones here, non, merci. Instead, this Grande Thé includes smoked salmon profiteroles laced with crème fraîche, sweet bell pepper marmalade crostini, rich fig and prosciutto baby quiche, and prawn canapés served in hollowed out rounds of English cuke.

As for the sweets, housemade macarons, warm Madeleines scented with citrus and a chocolate truffle square that is a fudge explosion waiting to happen are just a few of the treats on offer. This is only a two-tier serving, as opposed to the majority of three-tier offerings in town—but at $20 is great value, and the quality is good at any price point. Served Monday to Saturday, from 2:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.

4473 West 10 Ave. | 604.222.1980 | www.provencevancouver.com

The Smoking Dog Welcomes Back a Prodigal Sous and a New Summer Menu

Chef Pascal Georges is back in front of the burners at The Smoking Dog after an extended stay in Europe and Asia. He’s brought a new menu with him, incorporating some of The Dog’s old favourites—think a classic Mimosa salad and lobster bisque—as well as some new deals, like the $15 all-day menu. Choose between steak frites, roasted half chicken frites, or grilled salmon frites, each available for $15 for lunch or dinner, all day long. Don’t miss out on the apple tarte tatin, served as a whole apple with vanilla gelato over a light flaky base.

1889 West 1 Ave. | 604.732.8811 | www.thesmokingdog.com

Le Gavroche Serves Up Sablefish and Other Summer Fare

When a restaurant’s been around this long (32 years and counting), you know they’re doing something right. Le Gavroche has launched their new summer menu, along with a special sablefish and lobster $35 three-course prix fixe, that will be available for the season. I tried smoked roasted sablefish with lobster emulsion, fresh, chunky gazpacho topped with silky avocado mousse, a classic Caesar prepared tableside, lobster-sablefish fritters, mustard-crusted lamb rack, and cherries jubilee, also prepared tableside. I especially enjoyed the tiny mint gnocchi that accompanied the lamb.

1616 Alberni St. | 604.685.3924 | www.legavroche.ca

No Fixed Address Shines in the Underground Movement

Mon, 5 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Photo: Chef Steve's Rosemary salt roasted prawns at NFA

It is common belief that Chef Todd initiated Vancouver’s underground restaurant movement at the infamous 12b on Main Street. Todd tells us that his dinners are fully booked two months in advance, suggesting that there is a demand for more underground restaurants. These hidden establishments have been slowly popping up around the city. The menu styles range from Secret Supper’s vegan menu to Swallow Tail’s farm-to-table focused concept.

One newer contender on the scene is “No Fixed Address”. Chef Steve offers a unique Asian-meets-Mediterranean style menu, using local and seasonal ingredients. His creativity shines through in his meticulous preparation and beautiful presentation. Watching what Steve creates with just an oven and a four-range electric stove is inspiring and entertaining.

In the summer, guests will find lighter fares on NFA’s ever-changing chalkboard menu. Steve delivers six courses so the diners can experience a range of flavours. As a refreshing starter, Steve puts a spin on the traditional prosciutto wrapped melon. He creates two chilled melon soups and playfully pours the honeydew and cantaloupe concoctions over prosciutto-laced melon balls.

Seafood dishes are NFA’s specialty on warm Summer nights. Steve presents squid in two ways, with the body stuffed with chorizo on a tomato caper reduction and the tentacles as tempura with a mint tzatziki sauce. The Asian-inspired crab-scallop cakes are served with pickled fresh mango, cilantro juice and chili oil. The chef celebrates the beloved BC spot prawn with the simple preparation of baking them in a salt-crust. The little critters emerge from steamy salt to reveal their succulent and sweet flesh. Often times, simple methods are the best way to exhibit an ingredient. This is evident in his home-cured red spring salmon with a light lime crème fraiche dressing.

By looking at his diverse menu, one would assume that Steve is a classically trained chef but the reality might shock you. In his past life, Steve was a lawyer hailing from South Africa. His pure passion for food and entertaining drove him to leave his established career behind to pursue this new venture. His guests agree that he is a genuine and kind soul without a rock-star chef ego so it is easy to feel at home at NFA.

At the end of the day, underground restaurants are a risky business. Due to the neighbours’ complaints, NFA has since relocated from the Kitsilano location. “No Fixed Address” is certainly a fitting name.

Curious? NFA accommodates for parties up to 12 nightly. Email nfa.reservations@gmail.com or tweet @NFAVancouver to make your reservations.

To read more about Vancouver's underground restaurant scene, pick up a copy of the July/August EAT issue, available on stands now. To try out one of Chef Steve's recipes at home, visit our recipe box.

Local Strawberries

Sat, 3 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Photo by Gary Hynes

The sun is shining, the weather is warm and markets are gearing up for the season. As summer approaches, so does the highly anticipated Island strawberry harvest. For many, it’s difficult to imagine July without the delectable sweetness of Vancouver Island strawberries.

While imported varieties from places like California are available year-round, locals agree that strawberries grown on Vancouver Island are juicier and more flavourful than their American counterparts. The difference is easy to tell when biting into a fresh local strawberry on a hot summer day. In the off season, one remembers the juicy, mouth-watering flavour and begins counting down the days to strawberry season. Not to worry, though – the first berries are just weeks away.

But what makes Island strawberries superior to seemingly similar varieties grown elsewhere? The secret, farmers say, is in the growing conditions. Farmers on the Saanich Peninsula credit the loamy soil (an even concentration of sand, silt and clay), and west-facing slopes that provide generous afternoon sun. Both of these conditions are ideal for strawberry growth. Our temperate climate also ensures that the plant doesn’t get too cold in the winter, which slows the growth rate in the spring. Summer temperatures remain relatively cool, which produces a firmer berry. Hot temperatures are often responsible for mushy, sloppy strawberries. Practise also makes perfect – farmers on Vancouver Island have been growing strawberries for decades, allowing them to produce the best product possible.

Local strawberries are generally smaller than imported ones and have a higher sugar content than imported varieties, which are picked for their appearance. This creates the intense flavour that Vancouver Islanders look forward to every summer and one of the reasons why we can’t wait to bite into the first bright red berry of the season.

Grown all over the Island but particularly on the Saanich Peninsula, these summer berries are usually available from June to October. After an unseasonably warm spring, however, growers are anticipating the first strawberries to be ready as early as May long weekend this year. In season, local strawberries can be found at markets, farm stands, or at U-Pick locations. Island strawberries are picked at the peak of their ripeness, maximizing flavour and nutritional value while decreasing the time that it takes for the fruit to reach your mouth. Often, local strawberries are sold within hours of picking, which is another factor that contributes to a better tasting product. It’s also one of the many reasons why locals say that Vancouver Island strawberries taste more like strawberries than from anywhere else.

Whether purchasing or picking, look for the ripest berries. Unripe strawberries only redden slightly after picked. As well, be sure to eat or freeze Island strawberries quickly. Left on the counter, they will develop mold quickly and won’t last much longer in the refrigerator.

The season is limited, so head to the nearest farm or market early to get your share of local strawberries, and eat lavishly. Little compares to the flavour of a fresh Vancouver Island strawberry.

Find local berries.

Awards, Brunch Deals and Gastronomic Staycations

Wed, 30 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Left to right, top to bottom: Executive Chef Robert Clark (on the left with The Governor General Michaelle Jean and Chef Chris Aerni). Black truffle and Salt Spring Island goat cheese omelette, crème fraîche and bacon pizza with caramelized onions at Yew. Classic artichaut vinaigrette at Bistro Pastis.

All photos by Anya Levykh

B.C. Represents at the Nation’s Table Awards

The recent Governor General’s Nation’s Table Awards were announced, and winners were chosen by a handpicked advisory committee of experts from across the country, including C Restaurant’s Executive Chef Robert Clark. The winners of the inaugural awards included John Bishop, of Bishop’s Restaurant, and Sinclair and Frédérique Philip of Sook e Harbour House.

Yew Restaurant Launches New Brunch Deal

Yew has just launched their new weekend brunch menu, and it is surprisingly accessible for such delicious—and lavish—fare. Deals include a dozen oysters on the half shell for $12 and a “full event” three-course brunch for $27. The latter includes items like a black truffle and Salt Spring Island goat cheese omelette, crème fraîche and bacon pizza with caramelized onions, bison meatballs with garganelli, organic fried chicken with watermelon, tomato and corn salad, and—my favourite part—your choice of three of the dessert “tapas.”

On a recent visit, I had the aforementioned omelette, which was heavily doused in truffle oil, and lemon-ricotta mini pancakes that were perfectly matched with a dollop of white chocolate mascarpone and fresh raspberries. Dessert included a mango “shooter” made of fresh pineapple juice, with a large “pearl” (think molecular gastronomy) holding a pure dose of mango juice. The moment you down the shot, the pearl disintegrates in your mouth, releasing the mango juice for a veritable explosion of flavour. And did I mention the housemade donuts that arrive after you’re seated?

Oenophile Bonus: On Sundays, Yew takes 50% off all bottles, all day. Plus, they will open any bottle for you, any day of the week, as long as you order two glasses. Is 300+ by-the-glass selections enough, do you think?

791 West Georgia St. | 604.689.9333 | www.fourseasons.com/vancouver

Bistro Pastis Launches La Cuisine d’Été Bon Marché

France has just gotten a little closer with the new summer menus at Bistro Pastis. Four different regional menus, each running for three weeks, cover the regions of Brittany and Normandy (now through July 13); Basque and Languedoc (July 15 to August 5); Provence (August 6 to 26); and Gascony and the Auvergne (August 27 to September 19). Each menu is only $35 for three courses, plus optional wine pairings.

I recently went in to try the Brittany/Normandy menu. Starters included a creamy cauliflower and bacon bisque, classic artichaut vinaigrette and steamed mussels in apple cider. I chose the soup, which had a dense, smoky flavour that complemented nicely with the subtlety of the cauliflower. For my main, I had the sautéed chicken with roasted apple in cider and cream sauce. Moist breast was smothered in thick, parsley-dotted cream, and sided with potatoes and market vegetables. Dessert was a choice between a classic apple beignet with calvados ice cream and a crepe filled with lemon-mascarpone mousse and topped with blueberry compote. I went with the latter, which had a subtly tart and incredibly fresh mouthfeel. I’m going back before the 13th to try the lingcod main (La Cotriade d’Armor) and the beignet.

2153 West 4 Ave. | 604.731.5020 | www.bistropastis.com

Harley Carbery – Victoria boy atop Vegas’ Wine Scene

Mon, 28 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

I was down in Sin City a few weeks back, hanging out while my fellow was at his annual hoteliers conference. I popped in to see an old school chum, a Victoria boy and sommelier whose passion and career path has taken him to great vinous heights in Vegas.

I first met Harley Carbery, oh, 20-some years ago? Grade 2 classroom, blonde teacher whose name is far gone from memory, Margaret Jenkins Elementary School in Victoria. I don’t remember much from those single digit years – I think I’ve blocked most of it out – but I never forgot Harley. His family owned the local Dairy Queen, and every year when school was getting out for the summer it was Dilly Bars for all!

Obviously the F&B industry was in his genes. It turns out it wasn’t milkshakes coursing through his veins however, it was wine. After high school, Harley completed the Hotel & Restaurant Management Diploma at Camosun College, putting his training into practice at Fairmont properties coast to coast over the next 7 years. Managing The Wildflower and Wine Room Restaurants at the Chateau Whistler sparked a love affair with wine, and he completed the Sommelier Diploma through the International Sommelier Guild. Since then, Harley has also become a certified Sommelier with The Court of Master Sommeliers as well as a certified Spanish Wine Educator. Pretty impressive resume – even more so when you consider this hardworking man is still early into his 30’s.

Like many British Columbians, Harley escaped down to the heat of Vegas for regular holidays. After visiting a friend working in the restaurant industry there, Harley decided to apply for a job and warm his BC bones for a while. From the snow-topped mountains of Whistler to the deserts of Vegas, he quickly found work as Food & Beverage Manager with the (now closed) Ritz-Carlton at Lake Las Vegas. In April 2008 he landed in the epicenter of the Strip, as Assistant GM and Sommelier at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon at the MGM Grand. Just over a year later, he was promoted to the top echelon of the wine world, and named Director of Wine for Joël Robuchon and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon at MGM Grand. In this position, newly created, just for him, Harley oversees and develops the wine programs for two of Vegas’ top restaurants: Joël Robuchon, the only Vegas restaurant awarded three Michelin Stars; and sister restaurant L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, a slightly more casual space that famed celebrity Chef Robuchon prides as his ‘workshop’. Harley’s job includes sourcing and purchasing, pricing, inventory control, training, service and sales. And tasting, tasting, tasting. When I visited, he received a trolleys worth of vintage Krug ($200/bottle, give or take a few bucks). All in a day’s work at one of the best restaurants in a town of bests.

We all know everything is bigger in Vegas. Wine is no exception. In fact, Vegas has more Sommeliers and Master Sommeliers per capita than any other city on earth.

At The MGM Grand alone there are 14 sommeliers dedicated to quality wine service. Over 6,000 wines are available on property, the hotel’s inventory totals approximately 51,000 bottles, and 23,000 of those are stored in the on-property warehouse. That’s big.

But Harley also recognizes that big isn’t always better – especially when it comes to the price tag. One of the first things he did in his new role of Wine Director was add 100 wines under $100 to his lists (Joël Robuchon’s wine list is around 1900 products, and L’Atelier’s is one third of that). The change has been very well received, even in a place where there will be 2 or 3 bottles a night selling for well over $1000. “The economy didn’t affect us here as much as most – our regular clientele return for the high quality of food and drink and the exceptional service, and they recognize the value in it. However, if people know they can purchase fantastic wine at a relatively reasonable price, they’ll return even more often.” Granted, a lot of the clientele aren’t watching their pennies. The 16-course degustation menu at Joël Robuchon is $385 per person, and the average price of a bottle of wine sold is close to the same price. The list is predominantly French, with great depth in classified-growth Bordeaux, including 14 vintages of Château Cheval-Blanc. Craving the ’47? Hopefully lady luck has your back at blackjack, because it will set you back $24,000. A sweet tooth? How about Yquem? 1937 is a cool $20,970. Just a sampling of the gems in the cellar. After all, Harley and his team were awarded the highly coveted Grand Award from Wine Spectator last year. So why even bother with his 100 under $100? The chance of exciting and introducing a new audience to products and regions otherwise out of reach – that’s a winning gamble.

When I ask Harley about the perception of BC and Canadian wine down south, I was surprised to hear that it’s seen as an up and coming, exciting region – and one where great value can be found. In fact, during Harley’s exhaustive Court of Master Sommelier’s exam the week prior there was not one, but four BC-centric written questions! His restaurant lists are dotted with some finds from his homeland – Inniskillin, Osoyoos Larose and Mission Hill to name a few.

In his privileged position at the top of the pack in Vegas, he doesn’t have to look too far for tasting opportunities. Reps line up to talk to him, and he has the opportunity to travel and taste wherever he’d like to. But this humble wine geek (and newly Vegas home owner) is very content to be exactly where he is – surrounded by a team of perfectionists… and vintage Krug.

A New Crop of Farm Books

Sun, 27 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

This time tomorrow, I will be back on the farm where I spent all my childhood summers. One hundred acres in rural Ontario, where we roamed free until the farmhouse bell rang us in for meals. It’s what the neighbours must consider a hobby farm, though to be fair it is actually a tree farm – half of it wild bush, another quarter planted with tidy rows of pine and spruce; trees that were bought, a penny a piece in the early ‘70’s, from the government of Ontario during a reforestation campaign, on the condition they wouldn’t be cut down for at least twenty-five years. Other than the few dozen that served as Christmas trees over the years, they’re all still standing. There are also three fields, used by local farmers for harvesting hay, and then there is the vegetable garden, still tended by my father, for the family’s personal use.

Although it is not a working farm in the traditional sense, it is still the epicentre of my agricultural education. As children, we were encouraged to tend our own vegetable beds, planting an assortment of seeds with great excitement, then weeding with considerably less enthusiasm, if at all. We were sent to the garden before dinner, to pick peas or beans, or snip herbs. We ate warm tomatoes straight off the vine, and wiped carrots on our shorts to get the dirt off before crunching into them. Sometimes, when there was simply too much to eat or give away at the end of the summer, we were allowed to make vegetable people, with overgrown zucchini bodies, pepper heads and corn silk hair, assembled with toothpicks. When I get back tomorrow, I will see my grandfather’s asparagus forest still producing and my grandmother’s gooseberry bush ripening, despite the fact that those who planted them have been gone for some time.

A recent crop of books with ‘Farm’ in the title has triggered this nostalgic daydreaming. In fact, I’m supposed to be reviewing them. City Farmer: Adventures in Urban Food Growing (Greystone) is written by Canadian gardening guru Lorraine Johnson. This book is incredibly reassuring for urban dwellers who can relate to my childhood memories of running out to the garden for fresh produce. The truth is you do not need a whole farm to grow food to feed your family. You can do it in your backyard, on your rooftop or your balcony. I’ve recently read about people who have been successfully gardening in containers suspended down their apartment windows . If you need more convincing, or some advice or motivation, then City Farmer is a fantastic resource. Johnson’s book is a manifesto on how city farmers can become more active, while Farm City: The Education of an Urban Farmer (Penguin Press) is Oakland, CA-based Novella Carpenter’s humorous memoir of farming in the city. This one is at the top my summer reading list, based on the glowing New York Times review found here. In Farmer Jane : Women Changing the Way We Eat (Gibbs Smith), Temra Costa was prompted by the nineteen percent increase in women farm operators from 2002 – 2007 to profile various women (including Novella Carpenter) who are furthering the sustainable food movement. Each of the chapters examine areas of change in which women are involved increasing the level of sustainability in their local food systems. As the feminine voice in agriculture becomes more pronounced, Farmer Jane provides information and support to those who wish to better understand the movement, or become involved themselves. It's true when they say that "farms feed cities". However, there's no reason why cities can't pitch in as well.

Bits and Bites, Fernwood-Style

Fri, 25 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

top left: staff from Stage assemble their stuffed langos, top right: Little Piggy's Patrick Simpson and Christabel Padmore offer their Bison meatballs, middle left: the crowd enjoys "local fare in the urban square", middle right: Stage's stuffed langos, bottom left: a selection from Wild Fire, bottom right: The Parsonage Café's BLT.

All photos taken by Maryanne Carmack, Lotus Photography

One day shy of summer and a typically eclectic crowd converged in Fernwood Square to eat, drink and be merry. It was the first-ever Fernwood Bites– a fundraiser in support of the newly created Fernwood Neighbourhood Chest Fund. Armed with wine glasses and soon-to-be dishevelled napkins, ticket-holders to the sold-out event were greeted by an impressive array of sips and samples.

The crowd jostled for slices of hot, thin-crust pizza with caramelized onion, brie and bacon from Lucy’s in the Square and I watched more than one person immediately snatch seconds of Pig BBQ Joint’s Cuban-style pulled pork sandwiches - despite their not-so minuscule size. Other meaty offerings included a lovely duck confit with blood orange marmalade and watercress cradled in a buckwheat crepe (paired with a superb glass of Backyard Vineyards’ Gewürztraminer) from Devour, jerk chicken with pickled cabbage from Stir It Up, and bison meatballs from The Little Piggy. Stage Small Plates and Wine Bar stuffed langos – a savoury Hungarian deep-fried potato bread – with houmus, harissaand homemade pork and lamb sausage to produce a dynamite bite. It was fiery, creamy, succulent and piping hot. I won’t lie, I polished off three.

Those seeking respite found relief in soon-to-open Aubergine Speciality Foods' delectable vegetarian dishes like silky braised leeks and vivid, spicy pickled carrot salad. A few tables away, I was told it’s been an excellent year for asparagus in the Cowichan Valley - it certainly shone in pickled form courtesy of Zambri’s.

Paprika Bistro filled cherry tomatoes with basil pesto, dill crème fraîche and luscious folds of Victoria Gin-cured salmon gravlax for a nibble that packed a flavourful punch. Meanwhile, the Parsonage Cafe displayed charming old-fashioned wooden produce crates and wire baskets full of irresistibly sweet cherry tomatoes and lettuce from Suntrio Farm. Working at a furious pace with cast-iron skillets and freshly cracked pepper, they handed out open-faced BLT sandwiches on a wooden board, alongside miniature chocolate chip oatmeal cookies. Oven-dried tomato sandwiches on Cascadia focaccia (Cornerstone Cafe) and tomato bruschetta (Fernwood Inn) proved that tomatoes were the order of the night.

As for imbibing, Gehringer Brothers Winery, Glenterra Vineyards, Tinhorn Creek Vineyards, Twisted Tree Vineyard Winery and Quail’s Gate Winery provided a gamut of wines that ranged from fun bubblies to vibrant rosés, subtly oaky whites to robust reds. Other local drink purveyors included Sea Cider with samples of their Kings & Spies and Rumrunner cider, Victoria Spirits with sips of their Victoria Gin, Oaken Gin and Left Coast Hemp Vodka, and Phillips Brewery with liberal pours of their Blue Buck Ale, Big Time Kölsch, Surly Blonde Big Belgian Triple and (for dessert?) Longboat Double Chocolate Porter.

Bellies about to burst still made room for the smattering of dessert options with highlights such as Cornerstone Cafe’s moist banana chocolate-chip coconut bread smeared with five-spice butter and Wildfire Bakery’s island-grown wheat shortbread.

With all this fine food and free-flowing fuel it was no wonder the lively gathering was a-buzz. The guitar-strumming trio had trouble being heard above the roar. There were only a couple mishaps involving wine glasses - each bringing a collective sigh, then spirited "opa" from the throng. As the sun sank and the wind whipped, chefs mingled and the Pig gang deliberated over what to do with the bronzed head of Steve - the pig behind their pork. The evening had been a smashing success.

To try a recipe from one of the event's participants, visit our Recipe Box.

Vancouver Views

Wed, 23 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Left to right, top to bottom:Barbara-Jo McIntosh Launch: Barbara-Jo McIntosh of Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks holds her new book. C Patio Party: Executive Chef Robert Clark and C Owner Harry Kambolis, Guests Ryan McKinley (L) & Ryan Bazely (R) of Pinq, with CBC's Fred Lee. Vancouver’s First Cupcake Challenge: Frostings Cupcakery’s winning cupcakes, Event organizers Mijune Pak and Nicole Marie, My fellow judges.

All photos by Anya Levykh

C Patio Party

On June 17, C invited friends and media to launch its new patio menu (and hopefully invoke the Sun God for the rest of us!). Executive Chef Robert Clark has fashioned a new “sticks and stones” menu, great for noshing on a warm summer’s eve. Think mini oyster po’ boys, smoked salmon with dill crème fraîche, wild Coho salmon sashimi with ponzu sauce, raw oysters on the half-shell with horseradish gelée and Albacore tuna tataki with sweet soy. The new menu, as well as a selection of appetizers and mains, will be available throughout the summer for lunch, Monday to Friday, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., as well as dinner.

2-1600 Howe St. | 604.681.1164 | www.crestaurant.com

Barbara-Jo McIntosh Launches Cooking for Me and Sometimes You

Also on June 17, Barbara-Jo McIntosh of Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks launched her second book, Cooking for Me and Sometimes You: A Parisienne Romance with Recipes. Fans and friends turned out in full force, and the guests were treated to fabulous French treats like chicken liver pâté on romaine hearts and runny double-crèmes, as well as live swing jazz from Dinette. Everyone enjoyed the custom drink (from page 115 of the cookbook, of course), the Pink Drink, a mix of gin, Muroise du Val de Loire, Rosato Prosecco and lemon juice. Heavenly.

Vancouver’s First Cupcake Challenge

On June 20, I was lucky enough to be asked to judge Vancouver’s 1st Annual Cupcake Challenge, held at The Roundhouse in Yaletown. This event was put on by Nicole Marie Events and Follow Me Foodie, and had 1,100 attendees. In fact, the event had to close an hour early, as all of the vendors sold out of their offerings! Vendors included Big City Cupcakes, Bon Gateau, Pink Sugar Cupcakery, Indulgence, Cake Tease, Cupcake Couture, Frosting Cupcakery and Vancouver Baker’s Market.

My fellow judges included Vicky Noble, Communications Officer at VCC; Mark Busse, founder of Foodists.ca; Sheri Radford, editor of Where Vancouver and Where Whistler; Jen Ranjit, professional baker and teacher at the Cookshop in Vancouver; and Elizabeth White, production manager for Tartine Tarts. We sampled six different cupcakes ranging in flavours from root beer float and strawberry cheesecake to Oreo and Neapolitan.

The winner of both the Peoples’ and Judges’ Choice Awards was Frostings Cupcakery for their Neapolitan cupcake. It tasted exactly like the classic ice cream, except in cake form. The Bloggers’ Choice Award winner was Big City Cupcakes for their Strawberry Cheesecake cupcake. Another close contender for the judges was the vanilla cupcake with maple-caramel swirl from Cupcake Couture, which impressed all of the judges with the silky-smooth texture of the frosting and the moistness of the cake.

C Restaurant | www.crestaurant.com

Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks | www.bookstocooks.com

Big City Cupcakes | www.bigcitycupcakes.com

Bon Gateau | www.bongateau.ca

Pink Sugar Cupcakery | www.pinksugarcupcakery.com

Indulgence | www.indulgencedesserts.ca

Cupcake Couture | vancouvercupcakecouture@hotmail.com

Frosting Cupcakery | www.frostingcupcakery.ca

Cake Tease | www.caketease.ca

Vancouver Baker’s Market | www.bakersmarket.com

Back and Forth Bites and Bevies

Tue, 22 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Spot Prawns served at the Western Living Test Kitchen

Readers, I may have taken a little break from my web duties, but never from my wining and dining. Here is a bit of what I've been up to. On May 17th and 18th, EAT Liquid Assets columnist Larry Arnold and I swirled, sniffed, spat and scored along with thirty-some other judges from across the country at the 29th All Canadian Wine Championships in Windsor Ontario. It was a tough job but somebody had to do it. We were delighted to be the west coast contingency.

All Hail BC! Lake Breeze won top honours for best white wine with its Pinot Blanc 2009. Meanwhile Oliver’s Desert Hills Syrah Select 2006 garnered the trophy for best red. Naramata and Vancouver Island, walked away with 22 and 21 medals respectively. Click here for more details on for Vancouver Island successes. Gold, Silver and Bronze medals were sprinkled about the rest of BC. For all ACWC results visit the Canadian Wine Trail website.

Elora, a small town just outside Guelph is picture perfect Ontario with a heavy Scottish accent. (The area was settled by the Scots in the 1800’s). The Grand River narrows to a deep gorge and waters rush and tumble over limestone boulders behind the Elora Mill turned cozy inn and restaurant, and the Shepherd’s Pub. After two days ploughing through wine a palate cleansing ale, or three at the pub (along with some fine fish and chips) slip down my gorge splendidly. Make that brew a well-hopped Stonehammer Pilsner from Guelph’s F&M craft brewery.

Elora is also home to Cuisine Canada’s Anita Stewart. She and I meet up to chat about the culinary state of our country at Marj’s Village Kitchen “down the road” in the wee burg of Alma. Marj’s is the kind of sandwich/pie/coffee eatery you find dotted all around small town Ontario. Some are good; many less so. But Marj’s is terrific! I tuck into the grilled Ontario cheddar and bacon between thick slabs of homemade whole grain bread. At the checkout I add six butter tarts from the bakery counter to my bill. Just outside the town of Fenelon Falls a few days later I spy a Mennonite buggy in a farm yard---and a rough sign announcing fresh asparagus and eggs for sale. Only large jars of pickled eggs remain on the shelves of a simple wood construct. But a bonneted, shy young lady approaches me. I must look awfully crestfallen because she hastens to the henhouse for eggs and to a neatly furrowed plot to cut for me several thick asparagus spears. (I also buy pickled eggs.) Two hours’ later mom, dad and I lunch on THE best asparagus omelette I have ever made.

Back in Vancouver and barely off the tarmac I celebrate our tender sweet spot prawns at Cookworks, which now houses Western Living Test Kitchen at the shop’s Broadway and Granville location. The magazine’s recipe developer Murray Bancroft hosts the event, one of a series of spring/summer cooking classes. Guest chef Quang Dang who recently moved from C to take over Jeff Van Geest’s post at Diva at the Met whipped up simple prawn dishes that were, well, spot on---tartare with just a squeeze of lemon juice, a simple prawn, shaved fennel and cherry tomato salad, and a delicate summer risotto. Chef Dang peppered his dishes with useful hints on buying and dealing with these delicate crustaceans. A melon-laced Blasted Church Hatfield’s Fuse, and crisp fruity Rosé partner perfectly. For Cookworks fall line-up click here.

Two weeks’ on I was sipping a Joie Rosé and Pentâge Pinot Gris with rice- crusted seared tuna and tiny crab-cakes at Shangri-la’s patio party, a further underscore of the caliber of BC’s lively refreshers and just how well they suit our province’s bounty.

Family illness has me to-and-froing between Ontario and BC and some days are not so cheery. I find solace in my culinary escapes and landscapes. Tripping about the Ontario townships has also fostered a yen to do likewise in BC. Between Vancouver events, the summer to-do list includes meanderings in and around Langley, Abbotsford, White Rock, Crescent Beach, Bowen Island and perhaps a whip over the border to Bellingham, whose farmers’ market alone is worth the drive. In the works are also trips to the Sunshine Coast, Shuswap and Sun Peaks. I look forward to another season filled with edible journeys.

Summer Festival Update

Mon, 21 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

If the World Cup has got you in the mood for some international flavours, check out one of this summer's cultural food fests. This past weekend saw both an Italian Fest and a Afro-Carribean Festival, but Victoria blogger Melody Wey tells us about two upcoming events.

Festival Mexicano

July 9-11, 2010

Come on down for a tango and celebrate Mexican Latin American culture at Centennial Square and the Victoria Event Centre. Guaranteed fun at Centennial Square’s open air main stage with local performers sharing traditional music and dance, along with Mexican/Latin American food and beverages, arts and crafts. You don’t want to miss out on this festival ‘cause I’ve heard that the guacamole is some of the best in town. For more information contact 250 216-3664 or visit www.1415broad.ca

Greek Fest!

September 1-6, 2010

Hosted annually by the Victoria and Vancouver Island Greek Community Society, the Greek summer food festival is always a treat. It’s always fun and festive. Come out to enjoy some Greek food, coffee, pastries and perhaps even a little Ouzo. You can also catch some dance performances by over 20 groups. The six days of festivities are outdoors at the Commonwealth Recreation Centre at 4648 Elk Lake Drive. For more information visit: http://www.greekfest.ca/

A tie won’t cut it this year.

Tue, 15 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

For me the ideal Father’s Day would be to be surrounded by family cooking up a storm while I kick back with a local brew. Barring that I wouldn’t mind seeing the mobile pig roaster guy pull up in front of my house with the spit turning and the waft of grilling filling the neighbourhood air. Barring that a mega chunk of grass fed beef—cut into what the French call Côte de Boeuf – a rib steak cut two and a half inches thick and weighing in at a cool three and half pounds. I’d grill this, first on high heat, then finish on low. Serve in thick slices.

Or, for a last minute gift how about tickets to Fernwood Bites – a food & wine tasting event Sunday June 20 from 6-9pm. Stage, The Little Piggy, Fernwood Inn, Zambri’s, Paprika Bistro, Lucy’s, Devour, Tinhorn Creek, Sea Cider, Silk Road, Wildfire and more will be in attendance. Website For more information, call 250-381-1552 ext. 100.

So, while I encourage you to shop/eat local for Dad, here are a few inspiring Internet shopping suggestions for that most fatherly of gift-giving days.

The Bacon Wallet

This bacon-printed wallet looks like it’s delicious enough to eat, but it's actually a great accessory ready to stash all of your cash! Includes 6 credit card slots, 3 small pockets, & 2 bill pockets. Faux leather material. $16 at FredFlare.com

Barritt's Bermuda Ginger Beer

Used exclusively for the famous "Dark & Stormy" drink (with Gosling's Black Rum) at the Princess Hotel in Bermuda! Just put ice cubes in a highball glass, add 1.5 oz of Black Seal Rum, top with Ginger Beer. Squeeze lemon wedge around the rim of the glass. Garnish with lemon wedge. $2 each from the Really Weird Beverage Company.

A Gourmet Trip to the Tour de France.

Maybe this one’s a little on the pricey side but think about it: combining a love of sports with a week of eating and drinking your way along the cycling route in France! Website

The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating

You know the phrase "whole hog?" Well, London-based chef Fergus Henderson takes it literally. Author of The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating ($15), Henderson believes in using virtually every part of a plant or animal in your cooking to reduce waste, resulting in such tasty yet repulsive-sounding dishes as Rolled Pig's Spleen, Roast Bone Marrow and Parsley Salad, and Blood Cake and Fried Eggs. Yummy. Available in local bookstores or online

Portable Pig Roaster

Slow roast a whole pig, lamb, goat, or turkey in your own back yard with a motorized rotisserie! Available in a variety of sizes to accommodate your specific needs, these spits use charcoal to slow roast meat to succulent golden brown. Each spit can be disassembled in a matter of minutes for storage. Easy to follow assembly and roasting instructions are included. From $589.00 at McReynolds Farms

Factory Table Wine Rack

Inspired by the pipe fittings in an old industrial building, the Factory Table Wine Rack ($100) is a solid way to store your vino. It boasts rivets, piercings, and a faux aged patina that adds to the industrial feel, a rust or zinc finish, and room for up to six bottles of vino, or enough to quench the thirst of a small group of workmen in an 1800's factory, which is exactly where this looks like it came from. Online from Uncrate.com

Magimix Vision Toaster

"That's about as fun as watching bread toast." Okay, so that might not actually be a saying, but toasting has never been as fun as with the Magimix Vision Toaster ($300). This unique toaster offers a viewing window that lets you watch as your bread browns thanks to four quartz heating elements that heat evenly, four preprogrammed settings for toast, bagels, reheating, and defrosting, extra-wide slots, and stainless steel construction. Next up? See-through rice cookers. Because who really knows what the hell is going on in there?Available from Uncrate.com

Marais Stool

The epitome of French café life, it's rumored that Xavier Pauchard's Marais Collection (1934) was created for use in the weather forecasting room on a battleship. We asked the manufacturer about this, but even their records are unclear. Still, we do know that after its possible time at sea, the Marais was supplied to bars and brasseries by breweries in exchange for selling their beer, and carries on this tradition by holding court in the secret bar inside Oakley's massive, steampunk-inspired headquarters. Great for adding some industrial flair to your home bar, and also good for beating down intruders and unwanted guests. Made in France. $300 from Design Within Reach

Whisky Stones

One of the worst things about adding ice to a whisky is its ability to water-down the flavor. So chill your next drink down with Whisky Stones ($20). Milled in Vermont by some of the oldest soapstone workshops in the US, these stones chill quickly in the freezer, and won't impart any flavor to your favorite blend. From Uncrate.com

The Five by Five Dinner Fundraiser for LifeCycles

Mon, 14 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: guests enjoy a Sea Cider cocktail and good conversation on the front porch at Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse

credit: Rebecca Baugniet

On the eve of Sea Cider Farm’s third anniversary celebrations, the popular ciderhouse hosted a fundraiser for one of their partners; LifeCycles. With noble goals that include picking and redistributing thirty thousand pounds of fruit every year to build community partnerships and feed hundreds of families, creating organic food gardens on all school grounds in the Greater Victoria region and establishing community gardens in neighbourhoods where there is need, there is no wonder that the community came together in such an impressive way to show its support.

With the weather cooperating spectacularly, and the ciderhouse sharing its panoramic views of their organic orchard and the Haro Strait, the scene was set for a beautiful evening. Chef Steve Duncan from Ambrosia Conference and Events Centre designed a mouthwatering menu with each of the five courses centering around the region that supplied fresh ingredients. The regional inspiration for the first course came from Sooke, with side stripe shrimp and wild Pacific salmon donated from Iron Maiden Seafoods. LifeCycles has been providing the apples for Sea Cider’s Kings and Spies cider, with proceeds from the sale of the gently effervescent, floral cider returning to the organization. This served as the cider pairing for the refreshing gazpacho. The next course featured Vantreight Farms produce – a crisp salad made of buttercrunch lettuce with mizuna, French breakfast radish and pickled bull’s blood beets. I had the chance to chat with Ryan Vantreight, a fifth generation farmer on Vantreight Farms, and he explained how the family is shifting focus from daffodils to produce and is in transition to becoming certified organic.

The main course of the evening hailed from Metchosin, with Tom Henry’s succulent Berkshire pork from Sea Bluff Farm complimented by a Sea Cider apple chutney and paired with Sea Cider’s Rumrunner Cider – named for the aging process it undergoes in rum-soaked bourbon barrels. Next came the cheese plate from Parksville, with a beautiful selection from Little Qualicum Cheeseworks . Just when we thought we couldn’t take another bite, out came a tempting mint syllabub with candied lovage shortbread and a rhubarb coulis, featuring rhubarb from Bhumi Farm, donated by Share Organics and matched effortlessly with Sea Cider’s Pomona Cider, a still desert cider made from frozen crab apples.

Each course was introduced by the evening’s MC, Khalil Akhtar, whose passion for food is sure to come across in this summer’s CBC food dedicated program, 'The Main Ingredient' (click here for more details). Khalil also announced winners of the evening’s silent auction who got to take home baskets stuffed with goodies from Plenty, Phillips Brewery, Fol Epi, Choux Choux Charcuterie and more. The event was flawlessly organized by LifeCycles member Rebecka Webb and overseen by Sea Cider event designer Christine Smart, who managed to weave this massive collaborative spirit into a cohesive, finely-tuned ode to local food. On the LifeCycles information pamphlet, you can find a quotation from one of their Fruit Tree Project volunteers that aptly sums up both the work that LifeCycles accomplishes, as well as what the fundraiser achieved: “ There is something truly magical about how food can bring people together. [It]’s not just about food – it’s about using food as a way to empower people, to strengthen our communities and to nourish our bodies and spirits.” And we can be confident that LifeCycles, with good friends all over the community, will keep on getting this important work done.

Bicycles, A Blanket and A Patch of Grass

Fri, 11 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

The Picnic

For many islanders the concept of the picnic may seem like an elaborate activity of the past, one that sparks memories of childhood birthday parties, the egg toss, three-legged races, watermelons and water balloon fights. But the picnic has unlimited romantic potential with its varied, secluded local location options: lakeside, ocean view, rooftop or shady tree setting. During the coming busy summer, I suggest setting out at least once to create a simple yet sensual outdoor eating experience for someone you love with local, fresh ingredients that will leave you feeling more connected, more relaxed and ultimately thankful for life’s simple yet luxurious pleasures.

Why bother with Local Foods?

Living in Victoria, there is a wealth of locally grown and produced food possibilities as well as a bourgeoning artisan food culture at our fingertips. By sourcing local food, not only are we getting the freshest and tastiest treats possible, but we are also minimizing our carbon footprint. In addition, with our buying power, we support those businesses and individuals in our community that care about the way food is grown, produced and prepared ensuring their continued success and presence long in to the future. It may take me a hour on my bike to zip around to pick up ingredients in a few different places, but I can attest, when I are sitting on a blanket in the shade, eating with fingertips, the tastes this island has to offer, I am never disappointed at the preparation or money spent. Also, nothing is more attractive to me than a partner who has arrived to a picnic having gone to the effort to resource local, fresh ingredients.

What To Get?

I recommend keeping it simple, fresh and as local as possible. Head to the farmers markets as there is no better place to pick up mixed greens, fresh breads and herbs like basil, mint or dill for salads and sandwiches. Grab a bottle of home made preserve like chutney, pickles or jam to serve with crackers, cheese and fresh bread. Don’t forget to consider bringing your own bags or basket and walking or biking to get there. If you’re not sure where to go, check the Vancouver Island Local Food website for times and locations.

I like to check in at the Fort Street Charcuterie Choux Choux , which specializes in house-made pâtés, sausages, cured and smoked meats and international cheeses. Owners Lucas and Page, as well as their staff, are passionate and highly educated about local and international food culture and are always happy to describe their fresh offerings. Using pork from Sloping Hill Farms in Qualicum Beach for their pâtés and many cured meats. I am always enticed to buy their free range smoked bacon for heirloom tomato, bacon and lettuce sandwiches on fresh baked bread. I often pick up a slice of their local Rabbit, blueberry terrine using Hills Half Acre Farm rabbit from Mill Bay and made in house. I am absolutely addicted to their Porcini Mushroom Pâté made with local chicken liver and porcini mushrooms from local mushroom picker Eric (www.untamedfeast.com). I often pair this rich spread with local cracker-like yam crisps found at Café Bliss specializing in raw food. I’ve also picked up Hilary’s Cheese from Market on Yates when I can’t get to the Moss street market where I pick up Little Qualicum Cheese. I pair these treats with bread from the artisan bakery Fol Epi (101 Harbour St.). The owner Cliff is a leader in sourcing local organic grains and ingredients for his products and I am keen to support such amazing effort and sustainable local vision for the island.

If you’ve missed your chance at a farmers' market you might head out to one of the Ambrosio Markets and Deli locations around town (James Bay, Cook St. Village, Oak Bay Village) to find what is fresh and locally grown. You will find their staff enthusiastic and knowledgeable about the products they serve and everything that is locally resourced is clearly labeled. Try their locally grown greenhouse heirloom tomatoes cut up with fresh basil over local greens with some olive oil. Steam local asparagus lightly steamed then chilled with a garlic balsamic, olive oil dressing. Try roasting or steaming local golden or red beats then chilling them to go with a salads and locally made goats cheese and roasted hazelnuts for crunch. Make open face sandwiches with Kildonan Farm free range turkey, local cheese, tomato, cucumber and sprouts or cut up slices of house-made chorizo sausage paired with house-made mustard from Choux Choux for dipping.

For drinks, look for Zanatta Winery’s Damasco for a slightly effervescent white wine that’s crisp, fresh and light for the summer season or one of their other sparkling wines for a romantic sunset picnic dinner. Pick up one of the many microbrewery beers like Phillips to share with meats or flavour water and ice with fresh mint, local melon or berries for a non-alcoholic options.

In my attempt to create an intimate and romantic outdoor culinary experience for someone special, I have found it all starts with the food, as nothing is more attractive than sharing food with someone who has shown the care and taken the time to source local favourite treats to eat. In addition, take time to think of the little things when preparing. Try forgetting the cutlery “by accident” and enjoy the contact with your food while picking it up with your fingers. Bring along one plate to share and glasses that aren’t plastic. Pack a few candles to set up in the grass and multiple blankets in case it cools off. Think of a place that won’t get too windy or cold as the sun goes down. Ultimately, it’s just about being present together in nature, taking some time to share in one of life’s simplest yet strikingly connecting experiences this life has to offer: eating together outdoors.

Blues, Booze and BBQ

Wed, 9 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Memphis is not your bustling American metropolis. The downtown core has a few skyscrapers, some massive churches, a police station three blocks long, and two dozen bail bondsmen whose lights come on after dark. There are no coffee shops or boutiques. The only shopping area, Peabody Mall, had more security guards than shops. “They all left,” one told me in a quick drawl, “they gone.” Sidewalks are in disrepair and the only thing that looks new are the Memphis Police Dodge Chargers. The natural respite was the abundance of old Magnolia trees with their massive white flowers in full, fragrant bloom.

The tourist oasis in an otherwise abandoned core is Beale Street, a solid two and a half blocks of bbq restaurants and blues bars. Alleyways turned into music venues with a porch as a stage and a minibar serving beer and bourbon. You can buy a ‘Big Ass Beer’ at one block and have it refilled at the next. Oh yeah - we were in heaven.

We started our day with breakfast at Dyer’s, a Memphis tradition since 1918. An open kitchen surrounded by a silver bar and red banquettes, they cook their burgers in a massive cast iron skillet, in the same grease since 1918. Yes. They strain it every night, but they never, have never and will never, throw it out. When they opened a few more locations, the grease was transported, accompanied by armed police escort. We ordered cheeseburgers, some of them double doubles, and sweet tea. The best iced black tea with real sugar and no lemon. We would come to find out, every restaurant had the exact same sweet tea. No one ordered fries, as lunch would be our next stop. The patties were hand formed and almost thin, with good processed cheese like it was in your childhood, yellow mustard, and salt and peppered raw white onion, on the quintessential slightly greasy burger bun. The dimensions were sexy. We ate in muddled silence, in awe of the perfect cheeseburger.

A short walk past the Gibson Guitar Factory and Grizzlies stadium, we battled the southern sun through abandoned neighborhoods of beautiful brick buildings and empty lots begging for community gardens. The images of the desolate urban landscape were accompanied by a thorough silence, which was eerily appropriate when we reached the Lorraine Motel. The balcony where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated 42 years ago still had his car parked out front.

A grand antique store lured us in with massive iron gates and a plethora of antique mantels, stained glass windows, and a 16 foot, white and black metal sign reading, “Grand Community Food Store” we hope to ship back for our new store at the Atrium.

Back on the block, we were steps away from another Memphis original, Gus’s Fried Chicken, where they posted a sign behind the till, “$5 charge for whining.” One square room with white tiled walls, a pressed tin roof, two dozen tables and a simple menu. Fried chicken. You can have whatever pieces you want, with or without sides. A short wait later, during which every person leaving told us it was worth the wait, we promptly ordered the family dinner with beans and coleslaw served with slices of white bread, and a 40 oz of beer, because we could. Cornmeal crusted fried green tomatoes and pickles were crunchy delicious and a welcome moment to bring ranch dressing back into our lives. The fried chicken was, as promised, worth waiting for. Marinated and deep-fried, the skin was so thin and crispy it adhered to the meat for the best bite every time. The first beans and slaw we had so far, they would not be the last, as it seems everyone serves Hunt’s baked beans and the same shredded fine creamy slaw. We didn’t care, the fried chicken, the 40’s of Bud, and the quick-pickled jalapeños, kept us smiling.

We headed to Beale Street to find a patio and a cold drink. It wasn’t long before we heard the booming voice of Miss Zena and the Memphis Kings, so we took a seat at a metal picnic table. We were stunned to see BBQ legend, Myron Mixon, having a drink with an old friend at the bar. The epitome of the BBQ guy, friendly and down to earth with a thick southern accent and a deep laugh, he was too nice, offering us a tour of his smoker the next day at the BBQ Championship, taking photos, and even recording his famous line for our camera, “It’s all about the f@$%!n’ flavour profile!”

That night we were set on going to Rendezvous, a Memphis classic since 1947. Located in an alley that is now named after their founder Charles Vergos, a busy back door entrance gave way to an expansive two storey restaurant. Serving over 1500 people a day, it was like the Memphis equivalent to the Parisienne brasserie. Downstairs were the main dining rooms, a huge, shiny service bar down the centre, and the kitchen, containing four pits where the ribs are charcoal-broiled. These are Memphis-style ribs, dry rubbed, broiled and rubbed again, the fat from the ribs drips into the coals to create a subtle smoke flavour. We all ordered ribs with pitchers of the only beer on tap (Michelobe). Covered in a thick coating of dry spices upon arrival at our table, we were somewhat hesitant, weary of the over-use of dry spices in general, let alone being so upfront about it, as these ribs were, but they pulled it off and many of us opted out of adding bbq sauce, either mild with a tamarind flavour, or a classic spicy. The ribs required more effort, as they are not fall-off-the-bone as when they are smoked, but in that sense, more dedication, and we began to love these ribs, and yield to their strong flavours: cumin, coriander, chili flakes and paprika, with the odd mustard seed. Although their beans were clearly Hunt’s with some sautéed veg, their coleslaw was mustard based and balanced the sweet beans nicely. The most perfect white dinner rolls came as well, little mouth pillows smelling of fresh promises. We were not surprised to find out later that they had come from the Wonder Bread factory down the street. Emerging well fed and Michelobed, we headed to Beale Street for the night’s events.

To hear more about the Pig trip to Memphis, listen to the new Travels episode of EAT Out Loud. Click here to listen or download the podcast.

Brooke works at Pig BBQ, lives in West Sooke with her husband where they

raise kosher pigs, and does not collect pig figurines.

The Tofino Wine and Food Festival

Mon, 7 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Black Rock Resort, Ucluelet, BC

Not that I needed another reason to visit the wild wet west coast of Vancouver Island. My list is long. For me, like countless others, Tofino and Ucluelet are a special place. The sheer ruggedness of the coastline, the supreme power of the waves, the majesty of the forest. I will never tire of the echo of crashing surf, the scree of the eagle and the sound of silence – at times, all at once.

Take that natural wonder and blend it liberally with friendly, open and down-to-earth (figuratively and literally) locals. Plus – true to my heart – amazing food and drink. From humble fresh fish tacos to gourmet multi-course wine dinners, my appetite is always happily satisfied.

My newest find? Ucluelet’s Black Rock Resort. A stunning, coast caressing architectural achievement. At every turn, stealthily soothing gray slate and soul warming wood - harvested from the site. Expansive windows affording ocean views at every turn, Miele appliances in the suite and an enthusiastic and attentive staff are a welcome sight after the drive in. The use of locality isn’t limited to the fixtures – my skin has never felt so soft as it did after my blissful facial with Sooke’s Sea Flora organic seaweed products. And incredibly talented Chef Andrew Springett’s nimble skill with local seafood led to the best halibut I’ve had in memory. My wow moment? When I found out their wine cellar, built into the rocks and cooled by Pacific waves, has a wall of windows overlooking the active surge channel crashing below. WOW.

So that adds to my growing list for heading westward-ho. Also securely on said list is the annual Tofino Wine & Food Festival. In its 8th year, this is such a singular event that I doubt it could be mistaken for any other festival on the planet. The main event – Grazing in the Gardens – is entirely en plein air, rain or shine, with tables of BC beverage and local food spread along the meandering rainforest paths of Tofino’s Botanical Gardens. This year the sun gods shone down on us – a crowd of wine/beer/cider fans, food lovers, surfers, tourists, artists, wandering musicians, dogs, babies and chickens (yes – I saw chickens!). The wines showed very well in the fresh coastal air, the food was plentiful and the smiles contagious. I can’t really vouch for the chickens (were they dancing?), but it seemed everyone else shared my sentiment – this 8th edition was the best one yet.

I’m already booking off Tofino Wine Fest weekend for June 2011. Seaweed facial, Springett’s seafood, sipping in the Gardens – I can’t wait. It’s on the list!

Treve’s top sips from Grazing in the Gardens

Lake Breeze Pinot Blanc – perfumed apple and crisp citrus with a lovely mouthfeel, and bright acid.

Elephant Island Stellaport – Solera method fortified Stella cherries = luscious and rich inky cherries, dark chocolate, jammy pure pleasure.

Le Vieux Pin Moscato d’Osoyoos – aromatic and alluring perfumed grape, soft pear and sweet juicy peach, all spritzed up and citrus kissed.

Rocky Creek Ortega – true Island character. Bright, crisp mineral, gooseberry and lime, zippy and refreshing.

Poutine à la Victoria

Fri, 4 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Spicy Fish poutine on the pier at Red Fish Blue Fish

credit: Rebecca Baugniet

There has long been a debate over what counts as “Canadian Cuisine”. Very few foods have originated in Canada – most dishes have sprung from the wide range of homelands of the immigrants who make up our population: perogies, pizzas, pastas, etc. But there is one “P” dish that is our very own: Poutine.

While poutine remains a predominantly Quebecois dish, the influence of this tasty little heart-stopper is starting to make its way across the country. French fries, gravy and cheese curds, combined into a hot, delicious, gooey mess is the sort of dish that is irresistible to people who have a savoury palate and a poorly-developed sense of culinary guilt.

As someone who basically subsisted solely on poutine during my university years in Montreal, it has been great to see an influx of options in the past couple of years in Victoria. Not only can the discerning poutine aficionado find classic versions of the dish around town, but new, deluxe versions of poutine are springing up all the time. Here are a few of the best options in the city:

Classic Poutine

La Belle Patate

1215 Esquimalt Road

This is the real deal. Run by a former Montrealer, poutine at this tiny burger & fries joint in Esquimalt is exactly the kind that Quebecois are used to: thick-cut fries, salty cheese curds and a viscous, succulent gravy. Heaping portions and the option of adding smoked meat or chicken make for a full meal’s worth. For those with a healthy – well, “big” – appetite, a standard poutine goes great with one of their smoked meat sandwiches.

Fancy Poutine

Heron Rock Bistro

#4-435 Simcoe Street

Located around the corner from the James Bay Thrifty Foods, Heron Rock Bistro offers a variety of terrific poutines with sumptuous, fresh ingredients. On top of offering a standard poutine option, Heron Rock also suggests a selection of meats to enhance the classic Quebecois experience: you can get your poutine with slow braised barbeque pork, Certified Angus Beef or with duck confit. The duck option is also served with thinly sliced green onions, giving it a subtle, Southeast Asian flavouring.

Fish Poutine

Red Fish Blue Fish

1006 Wharf St. (on the pier)

This might not be what the British have in mind, but this very West Coast spicy fish poutine brings the term "fish and chips" to a whole new level. A scrumptious blend of tuna, halibut, cod and pacific salmon (only Oceanwise fish is used) sits on the crispy black pepper dusted fries, is covered with a tangy chipotle mayo sauce and then topped with chopped green onions. Don't worry - you won't miss the cheese curds. Available in half orders (see photo above - plenty for one hungry person) or full orders for sharing.

Pub Poutine

Garrick’s Head Pub

1140 Government Street

Attached to the Bedford Regency and nestled in the east side of Bastion Square, the Garrick’s Head has one of the most appetizing poutines in the city. As an old school watering hole, the food here can often be overlooked and this delicious poutine nearly slips in under the radar - but it shouldn’t! At the Garrick’s, they don’t skimp on the cheese curds and those crispy fries, slathered with a thick, rich and dark beef gravy, make for a mouthwatering option. Have an order with a tasty pint of a local amber ale and then the beer and poutine each magically make the other taste better; it’s the perfect storm.

Veggie Poutine

Cabin 12

607 Pandora Avenue

Vegetarian but still get that poutine craving once in a while? Not to fret – Cabin 12 is here to satisfy your hunger. Their “Green Poutine” is a vegetarian option, serving up French fries parboiled then deep-fried in vegetable oil for some crispy goodness. Layered on top are sautéed mushrooms, soy cheese curds and an appetizing veggie gravy. Cabin 12 is only open for breakfast and lunch, so this is for those who need their poutine fix early in the day.

New York Fries (Hillside Mall, Mayfair Mall, Bay Centre) also provides a surprisingly gratifying option. And while poutine might not be tops on the list of most dieticians, if you’re really in the mood for some greasy deliciousness, you can always listen to the words of Oscar Wilde: “Everything in moderation, including moderation.”

To read our news clip on the recent "poutine-off" held on the Empress lawn, click here and scroll to the very bottom of the page.

Baingan Bharta

Thu, 3 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Of all the dishes in the vastness of Indian cuisine, none has my number like baingan bharta. Silky in consistency, smoky on the nose and roaring with the full arsenal of Subcontinental spices, it sends me into fits of constant craving.

I’ve eaten it in the dining palaces of Delhi and Mumbai, on the Bay of Bengal, in the Rajasthani desert, in Ladakh in the high Himalaya, in London (where Indian reigns supreme among the Empah’s cuisines)—and can’t recall a bad one. It’s the crown prince of eggplant dishes.

Which is saying something. If eggplant were an actor, it would be Gene Hackman, or maybe Chris Cooper, marvellously versatile and always willing to perform. If they gave out Oscars to food, eggplant would walk away with Best Supporting Actor every other year.

Eggplant is a member of the nightshade botanical family that includes tobacco and the potato. Technically, it’s a berry and a fruit, not a vegetable. Native to the Subcontinent, it’s a staple in Mother India’s kitchen and likely has been for the whole 5,000 years of trial-and-error.

It journeyed the Silk Roads, gathering fanfare en route. In remote Sichuan Province, the Chinese defence against mist and drizzle is eggplant howling with garlic and chillies. Afghans also infuse it with garlic, then sauce it with yogurt and, we hope, share it with Canadian troops. The Lebanese puree it, pan-fry it, pickle it and meld it with pepper, garlic and lemon as babghanouj.

But the great eggplant innovators in history were the Ottoman Turks. The kitchen of Suleiman the Magnificent boasted 130 recipes for eggplant. I warm to the sentiment of imam bayidi, a stuffed eggplant dish translating as “the imam fainted.” It refers to a religious leader who fainted with pleasure at first sniff.

Eggplant rode west with the Arabs in the ninth century, fanning out through the Mediterranean world. The Greeks embellish it with cheese, onions, ground lamb and béchamel for moussaka. Italians make roast eggplant soup with goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. The French trumpet ratatouille.

Only the English didn’t take to it and even declared it the cause of epilepsy. In 1597, the English were advised by John Gerard in his Historie of Plantes to forget eggplant “for doubtless these apples have a mischievous quality; the use thereof is utterly forsaken.” To this day, the English have contributed nothing to eggplant’s canon.

Eggplant requires no justification these days. If anything, it’s the perfect choice for current correctness. It has few calories, loads of fibre, calcium and potassium. It’s easily affordable. You can dress it up and take it to a barbecue, a ball, anywhere at all.

It’s a willing accomplice in any culinary intrigue: French chef and restaurateur Georges Blanc gives vegetarianism desperately needed glamour when he writes about eggplant caviar wrapped in smoked salmon and eggplant quenelles with zucchini petals. Either dish is fine enough to call for champagne.

Around the world, the marvellous fruit comes in white, tan, lavender and green, but here two varieties dominate: the purple-black globe eggplant from Europe and the smaller, trimmer, vibrantly purple Japanese eggplant commonly found in Asian supermarkets. I’ll take the latter anytime: it’s sweeter-tasting, without residual bitterness. Its skin is so tender, there’s no need to peel it. In cooking, it absorbs far less oil.

For baingan bharta, find yourself some firm, unblemished Asian eggplants. Roast them until the skin blackens under a broiler or over charcoal for smokier effect. When blackened, run it under cold water to cool. Peel away the skin.

Mash the flesh evenly. Toast a handful of spices—cumin, cardamom, coriander, black pepper—until the fragrance fills the kitchen. Grind them to a powder and fry them in oil with grated ginger, chopped onions and garlic, and plenty of garlic. Now add the eggplant and also tomatoes and chillies to taste. Simmer for at least half an hour. Garnish with chopped coriander.

A rip-snorting bharta has a kind of hallucinogenic effect on me. Last time, I wound up asking my wife what she thought of, maybe, a baingan bharta ice cream. “Great idea,” she told me. Whenever you’re planning to make it, I have to be out of town that week. In Delhi, apologizing.”

Defending our Backyard

Tue, 1 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Maryanne Carmack - Lotus Photography

The 3rd Annual ICC Local Food Fundraiser “Defending Our Backyard”, was held at the picturesque Fort Rodd Hill, National Historic Site in Colwood, BC, Sunday May 30th. Farmers, chefs, artisans and food lovers alike spent a gloomy rainy day celebrating island food, local farms and tantalizing flavors. Chefs came together to raise public awareness and to educate on the importance of creating a sustainable local food system for Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. Read the whole story here.

Local Food Movement On the Rise

Sun, 30 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

I have, at times, been described as an incorrigible optimist. I do tend to see the glass as half full, not half empty. But lately, I am coming across more and more evidence to support my undying hopefulness, at least in the future of food department.

Exhibit A: Sarah Elton's book Locavore, released earlier this year by Harper Collins (on Ancient Forest Friendly paper). As the subtitle describes, the food columnist has gone "from farmers' fields to rooftop gardens" to see "how Canadians are changing the way we eat".

Though Elton does examine the evolution of industrial agriculture in this country, citing specific cases where it has set farmers up for certain ruin, her focus is on the alternatives - the people and the methods that are providing a successful model to escape an unsustinable system. Her book begins with a cookie, one manufactured in China and sold in Canada by an American company. Seeing this product, that could so easily have been made here, with Canadian ingredients, set her on her mission - one that she concludes with another cookie, this one made with heritage Red Fife Wheat and bought at Victoria's own Wild Fire Bakery. At the end of her book, you feel as though you have become personally acquainted with farmers and local food activists across the country, from the brussel sprout farming family in New Brunswick to the cheese makers in Quebec and wheat farmers in Saskatchewan. BC residents will particularly enjoy the chapter entitled "Chefs Go Local".

Exhibit B: Carolyn Herriot's The Zero Mile Diet, to be released by Harbour Publishing in June, shows that not only chefs can go local. In this month-by-month guide to living off your own piece of land, the local gardening expert takes us through a year of sustainable backyard food production. Carolyn Herriot will be giving a talk and book signing this coming Tuesday, June 1st, at Bolen Books.

Exhibit C: The steady rise in exciting events supporting a local food system. Take for example next week's Five by Five fundraiser for LifeCycles. Advertised as a "place-based dining experience, times five", this event, taking place at Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse on June 12th, will feature dishes from five different areas on Vancouver Island; Sooke, Saanich, Metchosin, Cowichan and Victoria. For more information or to buy tickets, click here. I could write more, but I've got to get to the ICC Defending Our Backyard event. I'll see you there, with my glass half full!

Morels and More

Tue, 25 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

On Tuesday, April 27, Cowichan Valley-based chef and mushroom forager Bill Jones led an intimate demonstration class at French Mint dedicated to local wild and cultivated mushrooms. Over the course of three hours, Bill introduced the group of 10 mushroom fanatics to a variety fungi, most of which can be found on Vancouver Island. Always a trusty guide, Bill offered tips for foraging and cooking each type.

While there were several highlights of the night, Bill focused on the elusive morel mushroom, one of the few that are currently in season on Vancouver Island. Most mushrooms are more commonly found in the fall, but morels are abundant in the spring and through the summer. If foraging for morels, though, prepare to be disappointed – these hollow, dark brown fungi look a lot like pinecones. Normally, this would be enough to fool the most experienced forager, but after the Island’s recent wind storms, the ground is littered with pinecones that make morel foraging even more difficult.

Morels are rarely available fresh but, according to Bill, a dried morel is just as tasty. Dry morels can be stored for up to five years and dehydration actually concentrates the flavour. Store dry morels in a tightly sealed zip lock bag to avoid fungus gnats, which are attracted to the scent and will destroy your supply.

To reconstitute dried morels, soak them in hot water for a few minutes then pour the water off to get rid of any silt or grit. Add more hot water and soak the mushrooms for about 15 minutes. Do not soak fresh morels. Like other varieties of mushroom, morels will deteriorate and rot faster after soaking. Bill also recommends cooking all mushrooms for food safety, especially wild varieties.

Morels are commonly used in French cuisine, in particular, added to sauces, which stick to its honey-comb-like exterior. At French Mint, Bill used morels alongside shiitakes, enokis and portobellos in a Japanese-style pickled mushroom dish atop spinach gomae. He used his personal supply of rare fire morels for another mouth-watering dish; chorizo and leek-stuffed fire morels, braised in Merridale apple cider.

Fire morels are named appropriately, because they’re found in fields that have previously been burned by forest fire. Experts say that morels favour the lack of growing competition in this environment. This explains their size, which is much larger than the average morel. Fire morels morels have a subtle smoky aroma which, at French Mint, complemented the chorizo stuffing.

When foraging for any mushroom, always be aware of the picking environment. Mushrooms soak up what is around them so avoid areas that have been sprayed or contaminated in any way. As always, be certain that you know what you are picking or forage with someone who can assist in identifying safe varieties.

To make Bill's Braised morels stuffed with chorizo and leeks, click here.

To attend a seasonally-inspired dinner at Bill Jones’ Deerholme Farm, visit http://www.magnorth.bc.ca/

To attend a class at French Mint, visit http://frenchmint.ca/

Cooking Class with Chef Heidi Fink

Fri, 21 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Photo: Chef Heidi Fink prepares the butter chicken at The Thrifty Foods Cooking and Lifestyle Centre

Something about watching Heidi Fink before her class starts reminds me of a hockey player getting in the zone as the national anthem is playing. There is a slight sway, and as she surveys the countertop in front of her, you can tell she is mapping out her game plan. Once the class begins she is on, leaving no seed or spice left unturned. Every element of cooking that comes up in the course of the class is explained in detail.

I’ve come to the Thrifty Foods Cooking and Lifestyle Centre for Heidi’s Authentic Indian Cuisine III class. It is one of several cooking schools that Heidi teaches at (French Mint, Fairfield Community Place, Terralicious) and based on the brief introductions of my fellow classmates, she obviously has a following. On the menu tonight: Butter Chicken, Mumbai Spiced Vegetables, Classic Saffron Pulao, Naan Bread, Chopped Onion and Tomato Relish and Green Almond Chutney. As I look through the generous handout students received at the start of the class, I wonder how this Red Seal Chef, cooking instructor, food writer and recent guest chef on a reality television series (XWeighted), is going to manage to demonstrate each of these recipes, and feed us in a mere three hours. I would need a full day, at least, to get through this menu. But this chef clearly has both cooking and teaching (simultaneously) down to a fine art.

Heidi begins by explaining that Butter Chicken is traditionally prepared by using up leftover tandoori chicken. We are directed to the page of our handout that holds the recipe for Tandoori chicken, and offered samples of some that has been marinating all day, and just been cooked up for us to try.

Flipping back and forth through the handout, we watch as the chef gets started on the spiced vegetables and rice pulao, passing around the black mustard seeds for us to look at, or explaining what the Asafoetida spice is made from as she goes. It is clear why she states in her course calendar that Indian Cuisine I is a prerequisite for this class. This is not the place for beginner cooks. Although even the more basic techniques are demonstrated, you will gain more from this advanced class if you have already attained a certain comfort level with culinary multitasking; an ability to hop from dish to dish without loosing track of what is in each pot, and what stage each dish is at, is necessary to keep up with Heidi’s instruction.

Heidi’s creativity and determination to achieve an optimal taste experience from each dish has paid off. Every part of the meal is cooked to perfection; each flavour stands strong, yet the ingredients remain fresh and crisp – the chicken is tender and moist, and not a single mushy vegetable can be found. With my handout full of recipes and a complete list of all the local places to find all the necessary Indian ingredients I am inspired to recreate this feast at home. However, lacking two kitchen assistants of my own, I may just keep it simple, upgrading my cupboard basmati to Heidi’s recommended brand, and cooking up a curry using the technique that she guarantees will “make the flavours bloom, and transform your curries”. Having tasted the results, I trust her completely. Here’s my advice: don’t wait for the Food Network to catch on… take her classes in person while you can.

For more Heidi Fink’s class schedule, visit her website: www.chefheidifink.com

For more information on Thrifty Foods Cooking classes, click here.

Eat Your Weeds

Mon, 17 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Some homeowners might think of the dandelions that pop up in their yard as a nuisance. Or, some may see oxeye daisies, with their delicate white petals as a sure sign of spring. To others, these young plants are all delicious ingredients that can liven any springtime meal or salad. Once you know what to look for, being outside in the spring presents seemingly endless options for fresh foraged greens.

Here’s a quick rundown of some common spring greens:

Fiddleheads are one of the earliest spring greens and named appropriately. These ostrich fern shoots, which haven’t yet unfurled, look remarkably like the curled head of a fiddle. Fiddleheads have a rich flavour, similar to asparagus or green beans, but also unlike any other vegetable. To prep, simply soak fiddleheads in water for about 15 minutes then peel off the papery chaf. Fiddleheads should be steamed or boiled until completely tender prior to consuming as they have been known to cause illness if not cooked thoroughly.

Dandelion leaves are best eaten before the flower blooms. After this point, the plant develops an unpleasantly bitter flavour. Dandelions can make a tasty addition to salads but use them sparingly along with mild-flavoured greens. Dandelion leaves are also tasty sautéed and may replace chard in some dishes. If picking dandelions, always be sure to pick them from an unsprayed yard or field.

Oxeye daisy is a surprisingly sweet green that exudes a flavour reminiscent of apple. These flowers often grow in a circle on yards and in fields. They may be eaten raw in salads or pureed then added to sauces or soft cheeses. Oxeye daisy leaves are a tasty starting point for spring greens because the flavour is more delicate and fruitier than other varieties.

Mustard greens are a peppery green that produces the seeds that are used to make Dijon mustard. Mizuna is one common type of mustard green that is readily available in stores and often used in salads. The thicker, deeply coloured leaves may be steamed and/or sautéed, but lose their flavour when overcooked.

Chickweed has a similar flavour to spinach when boiled and is just as nutritious. It may also be used uncooked in salads and makes a nice accompaniment to dandelion leaves.

Sorrel is a leafy green that has a distinct lemony flavour. It may be eaten raw or cooked, and prepared in a similar way to spinach. If using sorrel in a salad, favour smaller, more tender leaves that have a fruitier flavour. The versatility and bright flavour of sorrel makes it an excellent complement to any spring green.

There are a surprisingly abundant amount of wild edible greens available and you may not have to look further than your backyard or the cracks in your sidewalk. While spring is quickly turning into summer, experiment with different greens while there are still plenty to try.

Madrona Farm Is Saved

Fri, 14 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

From the press release, May 14th 2010

VICTORIA, B.C. - Twenty four months and almost 3,000 donors later, The Land Conservancy is proud to announce Madrona Farm is saved and will remain in agricultural production forever.

Thanks to overwhelming public support and one last minute donation from an anonymous donor, as well as major contributions from the Farmlands Trust Society, Victoria Foundation and local Victoria residents Ed Johnson, Mel McDonald, and 101-year-old couple Helen and Glenn Saywer, TLC is pleased to add Madrona to its list of "special places" in B.C.

"This campaign was a rewarding one for TLC. To see the community rally behind protecting a local food source was truly amazing. The generosity has been inspiring. We would like to extend a heartfelt thank you to everyone involved, especially Nathalie and David Chambers," says Bill Turner, TLC's Executive Director.

Located 10 minutes from downtown Victoria, Madrona Farm provides food to over 3,500 homes in the Greater Victoria area. The 27-acre farm produces a diversity of 105 crops, 12 months a year. Now as an innovative model for sustainable agriculture, David and Nathalie Chambers, the current farmers on the property, will be provided with the first long-term lease to continue farming while providing education and training for apprentices.

Without a doubt the community support for this campaign has gone above and beyond what anyone imagined. Not only did donations come from all over Canada and the USA, but England and Singapore, too. Islanders donated their $100 climate action dividend cheques and students from post secondary institutions, high schools and elementary schools fundraised to see this agricultural gem saved. One senior gathered donations from her neighbours in a senior's centre and one hockey enthusiast decided to split half his hockey pool winnings with Madrona.

Many local businesses, hotels, and restaurants donated their time and money to see the campaign succeed. Major events such as the annual Chef Survival Challenge, TLC's EcoNight with the Salmon Kings, and Earth Month activities with MayFair Mall all raised funds toward the acquisition.

"This project has changed our lives. David and I are true believers that a community is one of the most powerful forces in nature, and if we all stand together there is no problem too big for us to solve!" says Nathalie Chambers. "Our community now has a working model for sustainable agriculture and food security is on the horizon. Thank you everyone who had a hand in helping this campaign, and especially The Land Conservancy for stepping up to the plate."

"Congratulations to David, Natalie, TLC, and everyone in the community that answered the call to save Madrona Farm," says Ed Johnson, Chair of the Farmlands Trust Society. "The celebration today confirms that protecting the future of our farmland is possible when you hold a dream in your heart! Best wishes from the Farmlands Trust Society."

Next TLC will be calling in all the pledges and filling out the necessary paperwork to close the purchase of Madrona Farm on Tuesday, June 15.

EAT's 2010 Food Festival Guide

Tue, 11 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Photo: Wild foraged mushrooms, arugula flowers and rosemary in an Indian celery, morel mushroom cone with smoked goat’s milk yogurt and oxalis greens prepared by Sooke Harbour House at Feast of Fields 2009.

Credit: Rebecca Baugniet

Festival season is upon us, and with so many possibilities to choose from, we thought a little guide might be of some use to our readers. You'll want to bookmark this page, as we'll be updating it regularly as more details and events are announced. And be sure to listen to the next Eat Out Loud podcast (coming soon!), which will provide even more information on the upcoming food festival scene. If you think we've missed something important, then click here and send us a reminder.

MAY

Cowichan Spot Prawn Festival

Date: Saturday, May 15th , 2010

Local prawn fishermen and chefs hatched the idea for this festival to promote one of the most amazing and sustainable seafoods of their region, following in the footsteps of the successful joint venture between The Chefs Table Society and the Pacific Prawn Fishers Association who are now into the 4th year of their festival held at False Creek in Vancouver. Special Guest at this year’s event will be Robert Clark, Executive Chef of C Restaurant in Vancouver, founding member of the Chef’s Table Society and recipient of Vancouver Magazine’s Green Chef Award for 2009. This is a family friendly, fun day of chef demos, spot prawn sampling, music and spot prawn sales fresh off the boats. Local eateries will be featuring a spot prawn dish or menu for the week following the event. The day will be a great opportunity to learn cooking tips, sample great food and buy a fantastic local product – regarded as one of the best prawns anywhere. Restaurant participants include The Masthead, Hilary's Bistro, The Rockcod Cafe, Amuse Bistro and Deerholme Farm. The fresh prawn season starts around the first week of May and usually runs for about 8 weeks. “The goals of the spot prawn festivals are to highlight an environmentally sound and locally sourced product and to remind us that farmers markets don’t stop at the waters edge” The Chefs Table Society of BC.

For more information, phone Bill Jones at (250) 748-7450 (or send an email to bill@magnorth.bc.ca)

Island Chef’s Collaborative’s Defending our Backyard Local Food Festival

12pm-4pm Sunday, May 30th 2010

Defending Our Backyard is one of the highlights of Vancouver Island’s festival year. Chefs from some of the finest restaurants on Vancouver Island are working together to raise public awareness of the importance of local food and supporting local farms. Defending Our Backyard celebrates Island food, farms and flavours at the picturesque Fort Rodd Hill & Fisgard Lighthouse National Historic Sites in Colwood.

JUNE

Tofino Food & Wine Festival

Head to Tofino for a weekend of food and wine events focused on the best of British Columbia. Guest winemakers from the Okanagan, Lower Mainland, Gulf Islands and Vancouver Island will migrate to the wild west coast to showcase their best. Local chefs will be creating canapés and feature dinners alongside winemakers, highlighting the marriage between food and wine! An eclectic community makes for a delicious combination of people and flavours on this lauded June week-end, from June 4-6, 2010 , with a series of events designed to tickle all palates. For more information, visit www.tofinofoodandwinefestival.com.

Fernwood Bites: Local Fare in an Urban Square

Sunday , June 20th from 6-9pm.

Fernwood NRG is proud to announce that it will be hosting the first Fernwood Bites: Local Fare in an Urban Square Sunday, June 20th, from 6-9 pm in Fernwood Square. The fundraising event will feature the talents of neighborhood chefs, as well as wine tastings, music and more. Participants include: Paprika, Lucy’s in the Square, Fernwood Inn, Zambri’s, Hernandez, Devour, Pig, The Parsonage, The Little Piggy, Stir it up, Aubergine, as well as Phillips Brewery and local wineries.

4th Annual Comox Valley Shellfish Festival

Located in British Columbia's shellfish capital, the 4th Annual Comox Valley Shellfish Festival will be taking place June 19th and 20th at multiple locations in the Comox, including the historic Filberg Lodge. Join local food and wine producers along with culinary professionals from some of the area's best restaurants for a gastronomic tour-de-force celebrating locally grown shellfish. For more information or to purchase tickets visit www.comoxvalleyshellfishfestival.ca or call 250-890-7561.

Ottavio's 6th Annual Festa Italiana

Visit Ottavio for their 6th annual Festa Italiana, Saturday June 19th, from 11 am- 3 pm, where you can see their Italian Market in the piazza in front of Ottavio and taste, sip. & enjoy the foods & sounds of Italy. This year we will have tastings of Italian wines, Italian cheese from Tuscany & olive oil tastings and grilled lamb sandwiches by Galloping Goose Sausages. Don't miss our lineup of exotic & fast Italian cars, motorcycles & scooters! For more information contact Ottavio at 250-592-4080.

JULY

Organic Islands Festival and Sustainability Expo

July 10 and 11, 2010 ~ 10 am to 5 pm

Glendale Gardens, Victoria, BC

This event is Canada’s largest outdoor environmental expo and a chance to learn more about leading edge eco-friendly gardening practices, products and services.

2nd Annual Taste: Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine

The province’s capital will host a second annual festival focused on Vancouver Island cuisine and British Columbia wines this summer. Local culinary aficionado, Kathy McAree is pleased to announce the second annual Taste: Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine from July 15-18, 2010 in downtown Victoria and the Saanich peninsula. Taste will feature more than 10 events led by British Columbia food and wine personalities including Chef David Mincey and culinary Olympian Chef Brad Horen, as well as local Victoria Sommelier and Master of Wine student Louise Wilson. Festival guests will experience British Columbia wines and the coveted offerings of Vancouver Island’s artisan producers, growers, farmers, fishers, and chefs. The weekend kicks-off Thursday, July 15 with the The Main Event, an evening of BC wine tasting along with offerings of fresh and seasonal Vancouver Island cuisine at the Crystal Garden in downtown Victoria. This event will feature the characters behind the wines and the hospitality of Island chefs along with live music. The Main Event in its first year received rave reviews from foodies and oenophiles who reveled in the abundance of island cuisine and plentiful wines from over 40 island and BC wineries. Wine and food seminars July 16, 17 and 18 include “Sips and Seafood” on Victoria’s inner harbour seashore at the Inn at Laurel Point, “Pig and Pinot on the Patio” with a pig roast right downtown at the Hotel Grand Pacific, an inside look at BC’s seafood industry at Finest At Sea along with “Chocoholics Anonymous” with chef David Mincey. A special trade tasting of British Columbia wines will take place prior to The Main Event for accredited food and beverage professionals. Further information on Taste 2010 events will be released in May with details at www.VictoriaTaste.com.  For more information about Taste: Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine, contact Kathy McAree directly at Kathy@VictoriaTaste.com.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER

Feast of Fields

A gourmet wandering harvest festival - is FarmFolk/CityFolk's annual fundraising event. With a wine glass and linen napkin in hand, you can taste the very best of BC from chefs, vintners, brewers, farmers, and food artisans from across the province. Connections are made between producers and chefs, food producers and consumers, and farm folks and city folks. These connections provide an increased awareness of and appreciation for local food and agriculture. Feast of Fields is a gastronomic journey towards a sustainable, local food system.

Okanagan: Sunday, August 22nd, 2010 1-5pm 2010 Host Farm TBA

Lower Mainland: Date TBA (late Aug/early Sept) 2010 Host Farm TBA

Vancouver Island: Sunday, September 19th from 1-5pm Host Farm: TBA

Alpine Food Festival at Mount Washington

September 3,4, 5 2010.

Mount Washington Alpine Resort

Art of the Cocktail

October 16, 17, 18, 2010

Art of the Cocktail opens the door to a world of elegant spirits: great classics, the fresh trend, established players, niche bitters and the artisan regional distillers.  Seasonal. Gourmet. Micro. These are all words that apply to making sophisticated culinary cocktails. True mixologists worry about the shape and size of ice, the quality of their bitters and finding the perfect balance of flavours. They tinker with dehydrators to crisp garnishes, smokers to lend complexity, and these masters of the bar whip up fresh fruit purees, house made grenadine, infuse syrups, and raid the kitchen for exotic ingredients. The Slow Food movement has invaded cocktail hour.  Modern, elegant, expertly crafted and above all thoughtful are the styles that have come to define the best cocktails. Art of the Cocktail is at the forefront of demonstrating, promoting and building the cocktail culture.

A Quick & Easy Mother's Day

Fri, 7 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

I think back with shame on those childhood afternoons. The rattle of keys in the door and the click of heels across the lino; grocery bags rustling onto the counter top; and me, rushing in to greet my mom by the sink, not

to inquire about her day, but to ask "What's for dinner?"

With even more shame I recall my disappointment at her response.

"Stir fry."

Ugh. Not again...

Now, there's nothing wrong with stir fries. I love stir fries. And the fact is I enjoyed almost everything my mom prepared (except, strangely, for biscuits. And I do recall one bizarre occasion when the kitchen smelled so putrid I was moved to tears). But when, out of your control, stir fry fills your plate again and again, with the same frozen snap peas for color and the same whole wheat fusilli noodles for starch, well, it's not about whether it tastes good anymore, it's about being a kid and feeling bored at the dinner table.

My friend Nicole remembers many predictable mealtimes at her house taking place around servings of Chicken Cacciatore, or, a can of tomato sauce poured over chicken and baked. My husband's family, like so many families, was most often helped to the common triad of meat, starch, vegetable, compartmentalized on their plates. What we remember, as kids, is wanting anything more exciting. But what it all boiled down to, what our moms all had in common, was that comforting phrase: Quick & Easy.

As an adult, managing work, school, and marriage, I have had to rethink vows I made to myself as a child. "When I grow up, I will paint my house with primary colors and nothing will have to match," for example. But

more importantly: "When I grow up, I will always cook interesting food."

Please don't ask my husband how many times we've made the same red Thai curry, or how often I've opted for a pot of chili on a Sunday night. I'm embarrassed, too, by the ease with which I claim that mashed potatoes and steamed broccoli are the perfect accompaniment to almost anything. And one more thing: One of my favorite fall back meals is a simple and curious creation we call Creamed Peas on Toast. And where did I learn it from? Straight from mom.

The truth is, we all have a repertoire; recipes will cycle and not all of our culinary moments will be proud culinary moments, nor will they showcase our undoubtedly modern and experimental tastes every time. When

I have the energy I take pride in searching out a new recipe, pulling out the food processor, and concocting something adventurous from scratch.But often, I just want to eat. How much more did my mom, after a full day

at the office, just want to get dinner over with and relax? I see that now. And as for those frozen snap peasfrom someone who has trouble keeping fresh vegetables fresh, it all makes sense.

Unless you have something truly unique planned for Mother's Day, maybe you want to forgo the bustling brunch this weekend and cook mom up one of her own familiar favorites. The homage will infuse her day with nostalgia, and it will be a chance to show her that you've finally learned to appreciate all she did. Plus, it will likely be quick and easy. If you're in need of inspiration, check out our recipe box for an easy meal mom will love.

Culinaire

Mon, 3 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photos: Maryanne Carmack - Lotus Photography

On Thursday April 22, Victoria experienced the inaugural launch of Culinaire – “Victoria’s Premier Food Tasting Experience”. The event produced a full house at Crystal Gardens where local chefs, food producers and beer and wine makers showcased their talents featuring a bounty of local products. More than 1000 people attended the sold out evening and enjoyed the fruits of the labor of over 40 chefs and artisans. Our region’s best restaurants and purveyors of fine food presented their signature dishes. Events included exquisite tasting of cupcakes, coffee, beer, fresh oysters shucked onsite and if you were lucky, a bouquet of tulips to take home.

The Crystal Gardens exuded excitement and energy as Victorians crowded into the festive centre to discover the treats of the evening. Music, decor, and enthusiastic presenters contributed to the success of our first ever Culinaire.

The masterminds behind this event were Scott Gurney and Amy Pecorelli, a dynamic husband and wife team. They created Culinaire to introduce our exceptional local restaurants and cuisine and to all Victorians who love food.

Gurney says, “We are elated with the success of the event. The chefs went over the top with their superb creations. The presenters did an amazing job showcasing their businesses, and bringing awareness. The feedback after the show is amazing”. Gurneys added that his favorite comments of the night were those that said that they were unaware of the existence of many of the featured places and now have new favourite spots to check out. This was precisely why Gurney and Pecorelli created Culinaire. Next year they hope to see even more participation by local wineries, as well as more fine restaurants and specialty food producers. They are proud to announce that Culinaire will be presenting a scholarship award for excellence in the culinary arts program at Camosun College.

Mark your calendar now for next year’s event, which will most definitely be sold out again - Thursday, March 10, 2011. Check out www.culinairevictoria.com for updates and information. Contact Scott Gurney for further information: scott@culinairevictoria.com

Fed Up (and Wining) with Julie

Fri, 30 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Writing about an event after the fact is tricky; the news is so last week. It’s a particular challenge when it comes to rounding up the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, a seven-day sip and savour fete. The immediacy of tweets and blogs disperses festival highlights and industry award winners quicker than you can say gewürztraminer. I, being a terrible twit, just wanted to share with you how the Playhouse Festival and wine fests of its ilk can offer the wine lover more than a boozy walk about.

Wonderfully 761 wines confirm that it’s impossible to tar a single varietal with the same brush, (A “varietal" denotes a wine made primarily from a single named grape variety). Most notably, perhaps, is Chardonnay. Region to region, brand to brand, bottle to bottle, the Chardonnay’s style varies incredibly—from lean, mineral laden, and honeysuckled, to green apple and sage, to sweeping fruit, to toast and butter and rich oak. All types were present.

Likewise Sauvignon Blanc. From New Zealand, one of this year’s two featured countries, the expected notes of gooseberry and grass leapt, from the glass. Yet other Sauvignon Blancs surprised the palate with pear, tropical fruit and a touch of wood. Riesling’s global spectrum spanned from beautifully bone dry to compellingly sweet, dispelling a common notion that Riesling is little more than sugar water.

Argentina was the other featured country and its iconic malbec proved as diverse as the nation’s terrain, often venturing away from its inky hue and opulence toward bright but intense cherry characteristics, putting me in mind often of Italian Dolcetto. And the ever ephemeral Pinot Noir—flirting with the palate, bouncing between vibrant raspberry fruit and deep cherry, then dipping into a dusky and dank forest—all in moments and all from the same glass. As I sipped and sampled in the new Vancouver Trade and Convention Center tasting room I increasingly pulled grape varieties out of their various pigeon holes.

One good winery dinner at a wine festival is a must for anyone seeking the skinny on his favourite producer. This year’s winery dinners partnered Vancouver’s finer restaurants with some of the globe’s outstanding wineries-- Chateau Pichon Longueville at Le Gavroche, Antinori at Il Giardino, and Rombauer at West to name three. I was treated to the rich tapestry of old-world charm and classic French fare with Doudet-Naudin wines at L'Hermitage. Chef Herve Martin and team slipped wild mushrooms between puff pastry layers, napped wild salmon with sorrel cream and presented a buttery rich filet de boeuf with a classic reduction. What better way to celebrate French Burgundy? Later that week I enjoyed a modern take on classic gourmet and grapes at Refuel. California’s Peju Winery dinner showcased elegant fruity Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet and Zinfandel that went to-to-toe with crisp-skinned whole duck confit and braised beef collar that shredded with a touch of a fork like the best brisket.

It would be remiss to overlook the food at the 7th Annual Awards Lunch for the trade. Trade and Convention chef, Blair Rasmussen kicked up the zippy event hosted by CBC’s Rick Cluff, with a splendid display--golden beets spiked with feta cheese, fruity tomatoes (where from, for heaven’s sake, in April?) with fresh mozzarella. A light Caesar vinaigrette dressed mini hearts of romaine. The best cold table offering hands down was an escabeche of small tender-fleshed mackerel. A deep rare seam ran the length of a juicy skirt steak, whose exterior was caramelized to a near char. Basa filet served in a saffron broth and garnished with a single manila clam attained almost halibut status on the palate. The dishes were a match for Argentine and New Zealand wines and each was a culinary coup.

Hope my words encourage EAT readers to take part in your city or town wine events. Better yet, we’ll see you in 2011 at The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival! Next year’s festival will take place March 28 – April 3, 2011. The regional theme will be Spain and the global focus will be fortified wine. Click here for more information.

Wild about Nettles

Mon, 26 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Stinging nettles and tulips from Alderlea Farm

credit: Rebecca Baugniet

As the demand for fresh, local and seasonal increases, so does the popularity of foraged ingredients. Spring is the perfect time to delve into nature’s wild offerings and, on the West Coast, there are many. Stinging nettle is an early spring green that many associate with the painful ‘sting’ and red welts that follow a close encounter with the plant. In reality, stinging nettle has a wonderfully rich flavour and may be put to good culinary use. Its vibrant, emerald-green colour excites food lovers at the potential of the season ahead, reminding us all that other tasty local ingredients, such as asparagus and fiddleheads, will be available soon.

Often considered a ‘superfood’ because of its high nutritional content, the nettle is rich in vitamin A and C, as well as iron, potassium, calcium and protein. In addition, nettles are said to improve circulation and kidney function. This nutrient-rich plant isn’t only good for humans, though. Tea made from the nettle may be given to cows to increase milk production or chickens to accentuate the golden hue of the yolk. Although the stinging nettle is often considered a weed, it’s also a natural deterrent for aphids, and provides strength to weaker plants when used in compost. The fibrous stems have even historically been used to make rope.

Stinging nettle is commonly compared to spinach because of its slightly nutty, earthy flavour. Like most greens, it wilts when cooked, but the nettle has a firmer texture than spinach. If prepared correctly, it’s just as versatile. Nettle aficionados recommend using the plant in a seemingly endless list of ways: in soup, pesto, sauces, or even simply sautéed. In many cases, the leaves can be used as an appropriate stand-in for any mild green.

Be sure to exercise caution when foraging or preparing stinging nettle, though. The plant is covered in small, hollow hairs filled with formic acid, the toxin that gives the nettle its name. When cooked, the nettle loses its stinging properties but until then, handle with care. Use gloves and wear long sleeves to trim and wash the leaves, then cook thoroughly. Steaming is the most effective method of cooking because a quick sauté isn’t enough to deactivate the sting. After cooking, some recommend wrapping the leaves in a towel and squeezing out the liquid, which can be reserved and used as tea.

Once the plant is cooked, it’s safe to handle and the possibilities are numerous. Combine with sorrel for a lemony, fresh flavour, or puree, portion and freeze to use whenever convenient. Add it to pasta, quiche, polenta, or enjoy it on its own.

See this week’s recipe box for a great stinging nettle recipe, compliments of Mara Jernigan.

For the Love of Salad

Sun, 25 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Have you ever felt that you were in a salad rut? Tired of the same old mixed greens and reliable vinaigrette? Two new titles from Whitecap promise to remedy any salad fatigue this season. Jeanelle Mitchell's For the Love of Salad is a follow-up to her bestselling For the Love of Soup. Complimented by her own delightful colour illustrations, the chapters in this book are divided by core ingredients, so you can find a recipe depending on whether you are craving a leafy green salad, or one built around garden vegetables; grains, pastas, rice and beans; meat and chicken, or seafood. Salad Dressing 101, edited by Nathan Hyam, gathers recipes from chefs such as Anna and Michael Olson, Norene Gilletz, Dana McCauley, Eric Akis and Caren McSherry. With 120 recipes, this compendium provides pairing notes and ideas for vinaigrettes, creamy, classic, low-fat and innovative dressings that will elevate even your most basic salads. So goodbye to old standbys! This is the summer to try something new.

Published by Whitecap, 2010.

Victoria's Late Night Eats

Fri, 23 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Victoria is getting younger. Over the last few years, Victoria’s age demographic has become decidedly more youthful and one of the side effects of this shift is an increasing number of people going and staying out late, and often eating when they do. While Mr. Tubesteak can occasionally hit the spot on a Friday night with an alarming accuracy, sometimes it lacks a certain je ne sais quoi as a dining experience. Victoria has no shortage of great pubs to grab a burger and wings, but recently an increasing number of bars and restaurants have jumped on the late night eats bandwagon.

At Union Pacific’s UP After Dark, you can sit back and relax with a nice glass of wine and one of their Tasting Plates, a combination of their cheese and meat boards. Their meat and cheese selections are always changing and you get a choice of three condiments with each plate, so you’ll have something decidedly different with each visit. If all that freedom of choice is too much pressure for you, the staff will happily put together a plate of their favourite daily delicacies for you. UP After Dark is open until 11ish Wednesday-Saturday.

If you’re a fan of mixing and matching, The Office Lounge serves up what they affectionately call their “Princess Menu”. For people who want a meal exactly their way, they offer a wide assortment of dishes that you can customize yourself. Ordering a salad lets you choose two types of greens, two toppings and a dressing; if you go for a main, you can choose from a selection of sablefish, steak, duck or chicken breast, which all come with one starch (potato or pasta), one sauce and one vegetable. There is also a large variety of pastas and sauces you can opt for. For the decision-impaired, there is also a large menu of standard pizzas, sandwiches and appys. The full menu is available until 10pm Sunday-Wednesday (doors closing at 11pm) and until midnight Thursday-Saturday (doors closing at 1am).

Right across the street from The Office and downstairs is Whitebird Lounge, which provides great beats from local DJs, a small and savoury menu and an extensive martini list, one of the biggest and best in the city. With a focus on local and organic ingredients, dishes range from Organic Beef Ribs braised in a smoked chili to Chana Masala in a cashew curry to a tasty Mushroom Ragout Melt made with raw milk cheddar. Their kitchen stays open until closing time, which is currently “until late” Tuesday-Thursday and midnight on Friday & Saturday. However, as of this writing, they have applied to have their licence extended until 1am. For those with a serious late night hunger, keep your ears open for that.

The Mint also offers a varied menu often complemented by talented DJs. Open and serving food and drinks until 2am, The Mint remains one of the city’s best options for late night eateries. While they do remove a couple of items off the menu post-midnight, a large number of choices remain, including pizzas, curries, pasta and selected Asian treats, such as Badam Sandheko (spicy Nepalese roasted peanuts) and Tibetan Momos (hand-rolled dumplings served with achar). The Spinach Paneer Curry here is killer.

If you enjoy late night seafood, Pescatores spin-off The Oyster Bar has a serious wine list, as well as a fine selection of tacos, steamers and seafood-based dishes. Naturally, they also offer a great selection of oysters and a handy cheat-sheet for figuring out which type you’d like best. Open till midnight, seven days a week.

And if you’re in the mood for classic diner food, Paul’s Motor Inn is a Victoria landmark that’s been around since 1938. Their vintage menu includes soup, salad, sandwiches and assorted entrees, all being served until 1am Sunday-Thursday and 3am on Friday & Saturday.

Aside from Paul’s, all of the above locations are licensed, so you can enjoy a drink (or two) with your midnight munchies. And if it’s one of those nights where nothing but street meat will do, Mr. Tubesteak is open late.

537 Herald St.

759 Yates St.

768 Yates St.

1414 Douglas St.

614 Humboldt St.

1900 Douglas St.

Moss Street Market Gears Up for Another Season

Tue, 20 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo credit: Gary Hynes

When the bright pink cherry blossoms start to bud I know that Market Season is just around the corner. Farmers all around the island are busy getting ready to share their array of produce with an anticipating public. We are a lucky population here in Victoria, benefitting from a small but highly passionate and organized local organic farming community. These capable farmers have been gathering up their ripe pickings in the wee hours of their Saturday summer mornings to bring locally grown vegetables and fruit to Sir James Douglas Public School in Fairfield on the corner of Moss and Fairfield street in Victoria.

The Moss Street Market is the longest running and most frequented farmers market in Victoria, celebrating its nineteenth year this summer. What started out as a small group of local farmers gathering to sell summer produce has evolved to become a regular weekend destination offering a celebration of food, music, arts and crafts and local community potential. This is due in large part to the Fairfield community itself, which, from its first inception nineteen years ago, supported local farmers to create a non-profit society where small scale suppliers and local buyers could come together.

Farmers arrive and unload their trucks early, presenting the finest weekly delights from the farm on tables rich with colour and freshness. This is an inspiring, safe place, filled with happy faces. Thinking about it evokes memories of summers past: I’m eating the season's first bag of sweet snap peas from Mary-Alice Johnson (ALM Organic Farms) out of a paper bag as I venture over to a table of sprouts. I decide to try peanut sprouts for the first time happily discovering yet another fresh crunchy vegetable for my summer table. I’ve heard there might be Saltspring mushrooms and I’m on the hunt. I can smell fresh bread, pastries and coffee as I venture around to check out locally made dresses. Wild Pacific salmon and locally made sausages sizzle away on nearby barbeques competing with the sweet scent of fresh organic donuts.

I’ve already bought two bags of baby mixed greens from Tina Fraser Banes (Haliburton Farm) and I’m heading over to Rebecca Jehn, a farmer who makes the most amazing chutney and jams. The surrounding sounds speak of friendship and loyalty, patience and cooperation. Suppliers are here not simply to sell food or product, but to connect with their community through advocacy and education as they spend much of their time answering questions, showcasing varieties and sharing tastes. Buyers here are able to know where their goods are coming from and create a relationship with those who grew or made them. A place totally unique in its local flavour, Moss Street Market offers the continuation of a strong tradition of coming together around local food bringing the rural producers to city families.

On April 17th and 24th, half day markets begin and farmers get underway introducing their over wintered and early producing vegetable and fruit varieties. Although smaller in scale, farmers are all in attendance showcasing foods like beets, kale, chard, onions, leeks, potatoes, garlic, carrots, turnip, asian greens, rutabaga, mustards and other greenhouse supported vegetables. Early fruits like rhubarb are displayed as well as plant starts and seeds to get your own backyard veggie garden underway. Shantael Sleight, the new Moss Street Market Coordinator describes these early shorter markets as a great time to connect with farmers, ask questions and get a good sense of what the different farms have to offer in the coming season.

As well as being able to pick up your week's supply of fruit and veggies, the full markets begin Saturday, May 1st, and offer live music, Salt Spring coffee, pastries and fresh breads, organic donuts, Wild Pacific salmon burgers, Galloping Goose Sausage on a bun, popsicles, samosas and an array of clothing, pottery, jewelry and locally-made products by small scale business owners. Ride your bike or walk with friends this summer from 10am-2pm as the Moss Street Market is the only place to be on Saturdays. I'll see you there.

Moss Street Market

Corner of Moss St. and Fairfield St., Victoria

April 24th: 10 am-12 pm

May - October 10 am- 2pm

Pedigree Pigs

Fri, 16 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Tom Henry with Berkshire Pig credit: Gary Hynes

For an eating adventure, nothing can beat the taste of heritage pigs raised with love and fed their own proper diet. A heritage pig is a treasured heirloom – desirable and unique for its tender upbringing, as opposed to the industrial variety, commonly found in today’s supermarkets, which often serves up a big fat disappointment.

Many wonderful heritage pig varieties are now being raised on small farms in British Columbia. Sadly, they remain a small, select market and can be hard for the average person to find. Before the boom of industrial agriculture, farmers always kept a modest number of what are now known as heritage pigs/pork breeds. These are naturally thrifty, hardy animals, raised for their meat, bacon and lard.

Pigs are unique for a simple reason; the fat that they eat is redistributed throughout their own muscle fiber. This means that pigs, like us, are what they eat. So what a pig eats is crucial to how it tastes. Factory-farmed pigs are bred and fed to produce very lean meat, often dry and bland when cooked. Heritage breeds typically have more fat, and this makes the meat more flavorful and moist. The flavor of heritage pork varies with the breed. For example, Berkshire pork is buttery, luscious and smooth, whereas Duroc meat is clean, crisp and not too fatty. Generally, heritage pigs are not raised in small confinement, which means happier, healthier animals.

Heritage pork breeds are not suited to intensive and aggressive farming. With the rise of industrial hog farming in the early sixties, many of the old breeds were pushed out of the marketplace and so became very rare. Fortunately, visionary farmers are now trying to save these genetic lines, and provide consumers with more flavorful meat. Tom Henry of Metchosin, for example, raises heritage pigs on his property named Sea Bluff Farm. Currently, Tom is raising three breeds of heritage pork: Duroc, Tamworth and Berkshire yielding approximately a hundred and fifty pigs for market each year. His philosophy is simple: “Pigs need to root, find interesting things, wallow and explore. If you provide those things the animal is happy. Happy pigs are good pork”.

Lisa Bury and Tobias Marcoux of Stilted House Farm in Nanaimo have a small family farm of two acres with two Tamworth sows and one large Black stud. Their yearly average is four pigs for market. They decided to raise their own pork after doing research and found that a heritage breed would suit them best. Lisa believes that “Heritage breeds are generally healthier, have more personality are more self-sufficient and are tastier”. Sadly, few people in our community know the difference. “A small farm is not about making money. It’s about a quality of life and making sure at the end of the day we know where our food comes from. Meat is a mainstay in our culture’s diet, we are not going to stop eating meat. We just want to ensure we are eating healthy and happy meat. We also really love bacon!”

Dr. David Newman, an assistant professor at the Department of Animal Sciences for North Dakota State University, is a meat scientist and a pork educator. His focus is on the factors affecting pork quality and animal welfare. When talking with Dr. Newman he stated, “everything matters! When less than 2% of the people in North America represent 100% of the food, we need to spread the message of how important agriculture is to the world!” Dr. Newman has been raising high quality purebred Berkshire pigs for approximately ten years on his small family farm in Missouri. He has about two hundred and fifty sows, which can roughly produce three thousand five hundred market pigs a year.

This year I have decided to join the pig revolution. I will be purchasing two pigs from Tom Henry to be raised at home on our two-acre property. Having had the fortunate opportunity to work over five years in a top-100 restaurant in San Francisco, where we had to source our heritage pork all the way from Newman Farm in Missouri, I understand the demand for this delectable meat. Since moving back to Vancouver Island, I am excited to learn that we have these wonderful heritage breeds available to us in our backyards. Food sustainability for Vancouver Island is an achievable goal. Let’s support our local farmers by purchasing and tasting local heritage pork.

Seek out that butcher or that restaurant whose owner goes to the trouble to find you a happy, pedigree pig, and you’ll treat yourself to a happy palate.

Where to buy heritage pork products in Victoria:

Pepper’s Foods – Cadboro Bay Village

The Village Butcher – Oak Bay

Choux Choux Charcuterie – Downtown

Slater’s First Class Meats - Cadboro Bay Road

Island Meat and Seafood - Cook St. Village

Four Chefs One Garden

Mon, 12 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Evaleen Jaager Roy’s self published Four Chefs One Garden (Seasons of West Coast Living) $29.95, contains far more than the title suggests. It is a pot-pourri of expert gardening tips, poetry, personal reflection and anecdote, striking botanical photos and an anthology of seasonal recipes from four of Vancouver’s most noted chefs, Michel Jacob, Vikram Vij, and Umberto Menghi, and Tojo. It avoids being coffee-table material by virtue of its soft cover and modest dimensions. Although I have not attempted any of the recipes yet, they seem easy, delicious and on point with ingredients and directions. The gardening information is informative and practical. Jaager Roy’s prose can border on the precious but that said I see myself turning to this unique, attractive and useful gardening/cookbook often.

Self published with Sandhill Books.

Paprika Bistro's Chef Anna Hunt

Mon, 12 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo credit: Eva Cherneff

From the minute you meet Chef Anna Hunt, you know she is no ordinary woman, and she certainly is no ordinary chef. I walk in through the back entrance for Paprika Bistro and am tantalized by the smell of something delicious. Chef Hunt greets me, shaking my hand with great enthusiasm. ”It smells great in here!” I say and Hunt replies “awesome, that is what we want!” If you didn’t know, Hunt is the executive chef at Paprika Bistro in Estevan Village and loving every minute of it!

We grab a seat near the front of the restaurant and just as we start chatting, her brother Peter Hunt (Master Distiller for Victoria Gin) appears at the door, Hunt excuses herself to let her brother in. There is a great sense of excitement as she turns to me and says “we just bought our first house!” Her energy is infectious. Quickly we get back to chatting about food and Hunt’s background in the culinary field. With eight years of experience and originally trained as a pastry chef, Hunt did her formative training and cooking in Montreal and moved back to Victoria three years ago. Hunt is originally from Victoria; her family owns and operates Victoria Gin where Hunt is also the consulting Chef. She clearly has a strong sense of family that provides her with much of her inspiration.

Hunt gives credit to George Szasz (former owner of Paprika Bistro) for teaching and mentoring her for her current position. I ask what her favourite thing about Victoria’s food scene is, “I really love the local food movement and the support we are able to give our local farms and business through our restaurants”, says Hunt.

We browse through the menu and I ask her about certain dishes and where the inspiration comes from. The food is approachable with dishes like the smoked Port Alberni pork chop with bacon perogies and creamed kale, how could you go wrong and best of all the prices reasonable. Hunt maintains “I want people to feel that they can just drop in, sit down and enjoy great food; fine dining without pretension”. All in all, Hunt is charming, funny and truly loves what she does and wants to make a difference in the food community. Drop in next time you’re in Estevan Village, and I know you won’t be disappointed.

To try one of Chef Hunt's recipes at home, click here.

Paprika Bistro

2524 Estevan Ave

250.592.7424

paprika-bistro.com

2nd Annual Cowichan Bay Spot Prawn Festival

Sun, 11 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

2nd Annual Cowichan Bay Spot Prawn Festival

Where: Cowichan Bay, BC

When: Saturday May 15, 2010

Time: 11:00 am – 4:00 pm

We are pleased to announce the second annual Spot Prawn Festival for Vancouver Island. The idea was hatched between local prawn fishermen and chefs to promote one of the most amazing and sustainable seafoods of our region. We are following in the footsteps of the successful joint venture between The Chefs Table Society and the Pacific Prawn Fishers Association who are now into the 4th year of their festival held at False Creek in Vancouver.

Special Guest at this year’s event will be Robert Clark, Executive Chef of C Restaurant in Vancouver, founding member of the Chef’s Table Society and recipient of Vancouver Magazine’s Green Chef Award for 2009.  This is a family friendly, fun day of chef demos, spot prawn sampling, music and spot prawn sales fresh off the boats.

Local eateries will be featuring a spot prawn dish or menu for the week following the event. The day will be a great opportunity to learn cooking tips, sample great food and buy a fantastic local product – regarded as one of the best prawns anywhere. Restaurant participants include The Masthead, Hilary's Bistro, The Rockcod Cafe, Amuse Bistro and Deerholme Farm.

The fresh prawn season starts around the first week of May and usually runs for about 8 weeks.  “The goals of the spot prawn festivals are to highlight an environmentally sound and locally sourced product and to remind us that farmers markets don’t stop at the waters edge” The Chefs Table Society of BC.

New to the Festival this year is an all-star chef Spot Prawn dinner on Sunday, May 16 (1pm -5pm). We are pleased to announce the first annual James Barber Dinner for Providence Farm. This year chefs from around the Island, along with special guest Rob Clark, will prepare a very special menu based on spot prawns and featuring the best local wines and products. Participating chefs also include Cory Pelan (La Piola), Brock Windsor (Stone Soup Inn), Brad Boisvert (Amuse Bistro), Andrew Springett ( Black Rock Resort) and Bill Jones (Deerholme Farm). Tickets for the multi-course celebration of local food and wine are $125 per person with proceeds going to Providence Farm's Woodburning Oven Project - dedicated to James Barber.

Tickets are available through:

Providence Farm

1843 Tzouhalem Road, Duncan BC,

250 746-4204,

provfarm@providence.bc.ca

For more info on the Cowichan Bay Festival contact

Bill Jones, Magnetic North Cuisine,

250-748-7450,

bill@magnorth.bc.ca

Something Fishy

Fri, 9 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: whole sea bream

Poisson d’Avril is better known to Anglophiles as April Fool’s day. We play innocent tricks on our friends and family while media has a hey day luring in folks with “news” that sounds just quirky enough to be true. It’s generally acknowledged that the precursor of this fun day, however, is France’s Poisson d’Avril.

Word has it that in the 16th century King Charles IX opted for the Gregorian calendar over the Julian calendar and moved New Year to January 1st instead of close to spring equinox (April 1st). Rural folks continued to make merry in spring, blissfully unaware of the change. Since it took a few years for them to catch up, they were considered “fools”.

What has this legend got to do with fish? Who knows? Maybe it’s because folks were reeled in for so long. Regardless, Poisson d'Avril has become an excuse to poke a little fun and play a prank or two. The French tape paper fish on the backs of unsuspecting friends and family, who bop blindly about their day totally unaware of their piscine accessory until someone shouts “Poisson d'Avril!”, and the jinx is up. In restaurants, little chocolate fish are presented following the meal.

Anglophiles play pranks until noon, while the French joke about the whole day. Chef Jean-Francis Quaglia, a native of Marseilles, of Provence Marinaside has decided to fool around for the whole month of April with a very fishy 3-course menu. There’s smoked salmon and tuna to start, or mackerel poached in bourride. BC’s best, buttery first-of-the season halibut, and of course sablefish, courts fresh fennel, snow pea sprouts, pencil thin asparagus, or saffron new potatoes. What catches my eye, and fancy, however, are baked sardines and the “whole fish of the day”, which on this first day of April is fresh dorade, or sea bream.

The fish is served sputtering hot, head and tail intact, sautéed fresh vegetables and seven- grain rice along side. A simple nudge of the fork and the firm white flesh flakes cleanly off the bone (a sign of a perfectly cooked fish).

European chefs revel in selecting, preparing and serving whole fish. Most agree that cooking whole fish, like meat cooked on the bone, offers the best flavour. Most west coasters are unused to eating whole fish, save trout, or, during the last few seasons, sardines.

Why this squeamishness among our lot? Cooking and serving entire fish is not part of BC’s culinary tradition, Native and Asian cultures excepted, our fishmongers shy away from displaying fish from head to tail. Most often they are a pretty parade of rosy pink or pristine white fillets cut from larger Pacific fish. Ergo, we are unused to seeing fish as nature fashioned it, on our plates. Many chefs feel that choosing whole fish is the only way of guaranteeing true freshness and they delight in using the trimmings for stock. Admittedly in the Atlantic, small species of fish are commonplace, and therefore more accepted.

I’m thrilled to see that Chef Jean-Francis has flown in sea bream for the Poisson d’Avril prix-fixe menu. I offer flaky shards of the firm white flesh around the table. (There is plenty to share). My mates are surprised by how moist and tasty it is. Convinced that fish served head-to-tail can be a thing of beauty, it is agreed upon that whole fish would indeed be worth ordering in future. No fooling.

Provence Marinaside

1177 Marinaside Crescent

604-681-4144

Making Sense of Sustainability

Tue, 6 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Andre LaRiviere at Boneta

credit: Kyle Bastien Photography

Andre LaRiviere is a leader in the emerging sustainability sector. He has worked as a CBC Radio executive producer, is a trained Chef and has spent many years as a food writer. Currently, he is the executive director of Green Table, a network of restaurant professionals creating a roadmap towards sustainability.

Why are you so interested in sustainability?

I met some people in San Francisco in 2005 who were using simple green tools like reverting to a local economy and water conservation. I knew we needed something in Vancouver to help people understand the contribution they are making by going green, but to also look at it from the bottom line perspective. It is important to put it in terms you can readily communicate to all your stakeholders, whether they are your investors or customers. We diverted 52 tonnes of organic waste to compost, used 300,000 fewer litres of water and saved 30,000 kw of electricity reducing our operating costs by $800.

Why do restaurateurs find it hard to go green?

There is no quick return on investment with the exception of maybe some light bulbs. Consumers are looking to greener options, but in an economic downturn business owners are hesitant to invest in green because it has a premium cost. It is not a slam dunk that if you put out a greener restaurant that you will get greater customer loyalty. You have to take the time to understand how it applies broadly across your operations, get your staff on board, and invest time, energy and money to get the benefits of going green.

If we are not there yet, how far off are we?

We understand what needs to be done. The ideas of local food systems, more sustainability, more organics or whatever it is - these concepts are fairly easy to understand. In order to move towards sustainable models we need to find ways to work with the existing systems. We are looking at systemic change. Even though we try to make this a step by step process, there is inertia to break through. I want Green Table to be a facilitator. We are looking for solutions on how to change those systems without tearing them down and starting over.

What does it mean to be sustainable versus self-sustaining?

It is a matter of degree. If you apply enough technology you can take a restaurant and make it a completely self-sustaining property by growing your own food, handling your own waste maximum energy conservation. It is not impossible to create something that is self-sustaining, however it is not a system. In a way, it is like the 100-mile diet. It is a wonderful example of a local economy at work but could we move the entire food system over to a 100 mile diet? No, it is not feasible. That is what I think the difference is between sustainability and self sustaining. Sustainability has to make sense.

What can we do to make sense of it?

Today is my daughter’s seventh birthday. Teaching a little person to eat has helped motivate me in my work. It is the next generation of eaters that will really help this change come about. We need to make sure they understand the value of food and have a much closer connection to it, whether their parents take them to the farmer’s market or they grow food in their own back yard. The food systems we have now are based on not having any connection. It is traveling food. It is disconnected food. The more people can connect to their local food and understand the value of that, the more it will drive change.

Stirring Up the Potluck

Fri, 2 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

It's a familiar scene: You've pressed your table linen, dusted your favorite vase from Saltspring, and spent the morning picking fresh blooms and twigs to arrange on your hors d'oeuvre table. It's a magazine-worthy display. It's so fine, in fact, that you hesitate to subject it to a tired platter of baby carrots and dip. Your masterpiece deserves more than a melamine plate of Triscuits and cheddar. So, how do you get your non-foodie friends to up the ante on their appetizers?

Try giving them a challenge.

Recently, a friend of mine hosted a formal cocktail party for his 30th birthday. His wife ensured that the atmosphere was just so and lined every surface from the driveway to the mantel with candles in jam jars. The glassware was set out in glowing rows on the table, and polished glass tea dispensers were filled with homemade ginger and rosemary lemonade. I would have expected nothing less from this couple, but what surprised me was that with each black dress and vest that stepped across the threshold, the unpredictable spread on the appetizer table only increased in quality. It was only a matter of time before the sweet and spicy yam fries, steaming homemade gyoza and vegan breaded macaroni clusters were reduced to crumbs. The hosts had announced a competition, and there was no doubt that their guests had cooked to win.

We can't blame our friends (or ourselves) for falling back on the cliches of potluck contributions. Afterall, potlucks as we know them have been taking place for generations. Some might consider it evolutionary that we raise our hands and say "pasta salad" whenever we hear the P word. But by imposing a challenge you're not only giving people permission to blow apart the mold, you're requiring it, and everyone will thank you.

Your contest need not be limited to appetizers like my friends' was - the idea here is to stretch the limits and be creative. Depending on your lifestyle you could put out a call for sugar-free sweets, or, if you're feeling fun and playful, request that all hors d'oeuvres be served on a stick. Already serving an Indian menu? Why not invite your friends to create a thematic beverage selection to accompany your cooking? (Think chai martinis and then some.) Choose any category, make up the rules (all organic, perhaps?), and there'll be no ice to break when your guests roll in with all of their creations.

If you'd like to see how professionals do it, think about attending artsREACH's Colour Your Palate fundraiser at the Hotel Grand Pacific on April 7th. Each year, a dozen or so local chefs accept the challenge to be true culinary artists and prepare chromatically themed canapés for a panel of judges. Prizes are awarded for Best Tasting canapé, Most Artistic Creation, and Best Colour Representation, as well as People's Choice. Last year, Ian Goard (Pacific Restaurant) won in two of these categories for his orange hued "orange, saffron and tarragon pound cake, filled with an orange mousse, blood orange gelees and pieces of caramel sponge candy."

Inspired yet?

Coming up with ingredients which blend not only in taste but in tint might be a feat best left to the real chefs. But come up with your own challenge (and a worthy prize!) and you'll treat your taste buds and ornament your hors d'oeuvres table with the best your friends have to offer.

The Whisky of Victoria’s Future

Mon, 29 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Victoria Spirits President Bryan Murray at the wood-fired copper pot still

credit: Bill Blair

Imagine this: island-grown barley malted in Victoria, fermented into beer by Phillips Brewery, then distilled and aged in Garry Oak barrels - a completely local single-malt whisky. This is what the master distiller Peter Hunt envisions for Victoria Spirits.

Recently, on a decidedly spring day, I made the trip to the distillery’s idyllic location on Old West Saanich Road. Peter was throwing blocks of compressed wood chips, one of many environmentally conscious measures, into the fire of a gleaming, German-made, 120L copper pot-still. After describing how the 4 to 6 hour distillation process produces a concentrated spirit full of aromas but stripped of impurities, Peter crouched over and proudly patted a small barrel. This quarter cask was full of what will be known as Craigdarroch Whisky. In the tasting room I cupped my hands around a glass of the pale, straw-coloured spirit and sipped. Despite being a mere four months old it was nicely caramelized, deeply warm and almost sweet.

I asked Peter to tell me how this delicious liquid is made. Peter starts with a “wash” (roughly 8% alcohol), made by Matt Phillips, which goes through the still on an initial “beer-stripping run”. The resulting “low wine” (now 30-40% alcohol) is distilled again and from its “hearts” Peter obtains a “new make” grain spirit (approximately 60-86% alcohol). This spirit must be aged for a minimum of three years before it earns the moniker whisky.

Craigdarroch Whisky will be classified as a single-malt since it is only made with barley (from Canada, but with hope, soon it will just be from Vancouver Island). Scotch single-malt whiskies possess a characteristic smokiness due to the tradition of drying sprouted grains with peat-moss fuelled fires during the malting procedure. This technique won’t be used for Craigdarroch Whisky, which means the terroir of Vancouver Island can shine clearly. Just part of a whisky’s flavour comes from the grain while “more than half the character comes from the barrel it’s aged in,” said Peter, who will mature each small batch differently. In some cases the spirit will be aged in small, new American oak barrels – like the young whisky-to-be I sampled. Smaller barrels provide more surface area so the whisky that emerges has a complexity that belies its youth. Other batches may be aged in old Bourbon barrels or, if Peter finds a way, in local Garry Oak barrels. That whisky would truly live up to its namesake – Craigdarroch means “oak of the rocks”.

While we pine away the next three years, for what will be an impressive artistic and artisanal whisky, other developments are a-foot at the family-run distillery. Twisted & Bitter orange bitters have recently been embraced by cocktail aficionados. Eau de Merlot, one of several eau-de-vies, combines the spicy, chocolate notes of wine with the pleasurable heat of a spirit. The brand-new Left Coast Hemp Vodka offers an agreeably round oiliness and faint nuttiness to a typically ho-hum liquor. Oaken Gin is the Victoria Gin you know and love aged in a combination of French and new American oak barrels for six months before being blended. It is Victoria Gin the morning after – complex, smoky and sultry. Peter explained that all of these “came out of curiosity and a desire to keep the tasting room fun and interesting”.

The tasting room will be open for samples, sales and tours of the distillery on weekends and holidays from April to October. Meanwhile, plans are underway to make Victoria Gin available throughout Canada while remaining “true to the label brand and flavour”.

Check this week's recipe box for a tasty dish developed by chef Anna Hunt, showcasing the Victoria Gin botanicals.

Victoria Spirits

6170 Old West Saanich Road

(250) 544-8217

Cake Kerfuffle Results

Sun, 28 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

The cake kerfuffle survey incited quite a good response, and the results are interesting. 10% were on the A side (I think it's fine to bring a bit of your own food to a restaurant, as long as you're paying for other items on the menu), 64% of our respondents answered that they agreed with B (Eating out means eating other people's food. Leave your own food at home), while 26% would not specify which they agreed with, feeling that there were exceptions to the rule. Many considerations were raised, including health regulations that legally prevent restaurants from serving food that has not been prepared on site, the overhead costs of dishwashing, bussing, etc. Several people felt that the conflict could have been avoided if Rose had just called ahead to ask, and others said this was what they did when they wished to bring a birthday cake to a restaurant. Here are a few of our favourite comments from all sides of the argument:

“I have to admit that we have on more than one occasion over many, many years, brought our own birthday cake into a restaurant where we have eaten a full dinner. It was never forbidden, we weren't thrown out OR CHARGED, but we were known there and we did give a nice big chunk of a very special cake to the manager! I figure as long as we've had full course meals with drinks, etc. that it shouldn't be a problem...and when we're bringing in something this restaurant doesn't offer.”

“We met friends who came from off island to help celebrate my husband's birthday. It was June so I had great plans to watch the sunset and eat the homemade cake I prepared. It started to bucket and the lovely people at The Seaside Restaurant on Salt Spring invited us to bring the cake in and for a very small fee gave us a bowl of whipped cream. I guess the only other thing I would do is invite the chef to join the table.”

“Leave your food at home - including that birthday cake, or pie or whatever else you think you can do to save some money. What a pain it is to have people bring their own food in and then I have to scrounge around for everything else they need to eat it with, cut it with, heat it up for grandma, wrap up the leftovers so they can take it home with them!! It's not 'thank you come again' BUT GOOD BYE AND GOOD RIDDANCE!”

“(B) … The only individuals who are and should be exempt from this social convention are infants.”

Thanks to all who participated.

5 Great Sandwiches Around Victoria

Tue, 23 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Photo: Roasted Vegetable Sandwich at Murchie's Credit: Rebecca Baugniet

We all have days like this: you’re on the run, you didn’t have time to pack a lunch and you are starving. You want to eat fast, but you want something good. Where to turn? Lucky for us, Victoria has a fabulous selection of grab and go sandwiches. Here, listed in no particular order, are five of my favourites. These sandwiches are all made fresh daily on site, and cost between $5 and $8. Ingredients may vary slightly, and all are subject to availability. Disclaimer: this is the short list. For more great lunch ideas, check out the winners from the EAT Exceptional Awards for best island workday lunch, and best menu items in town for under $10.

1. Bond Bond’s:

Roast Beef and Aged Cheddar: Prepared on Bond Bond’s whole wheat or cheese Kaiser buns with mayonnaise, Dijon, greens, aged cheddar and roast beef. A classic sandwich done just right. Not too much of anything, this sandwich does not overload you with meat as so many sandwiches do. Instead, they've measured out the right quantities of high quality ingredients and built a satisfying lunch with them. Be prepared: Bond Bond's takes cash only.

2. Murchie’s:

Roasted Veggies on Focaccia: Roasted eggplant and artichoke hearts, cucumber, tomato, greens, pesto on cheese and herb focaccia. Take a look at the photo above. It may be a challenge to get it all in your mouth in one bite, but it's worth the effort. A nice combination of fresh and roasted vegetables works perfectly with pesto on the fluffy herbed cheese focaccia.

3. Ottavio’s:

The Lombardo: Prosciutto, Gorgonzola, pear slices and onion fig chutney on a Kaiser bun. The good people at Ottavio's struck gold when they came up with this combination. (I've been known to drive across town with no other motivation than to acquire one. If you're making a special trip, call ahead to have one put aside for you, as they sell out quickly.) The house-made onion-fig chutney with balsamic vinegar marries the creamy tanginess of the blue cheese, perfectly offset by a little crunchy pear and salty prosciutto. Your taste buds will be requesting this combination on a regular basis.

4. Devour:

Devour’s prepared sandwiches change from day to day, but they never fail to impress. They usually have two options, one with meat and one vegetarian or fish selection. One example: Prosciutto-wrapped pork and duck terrine with dill pickle on baguette. Opt for a surprise, or download their daily menu at devour.ca to find out what they’re serving today.

5. Pizzeria Prima Strada on Bridge Street: The new Pizzeria Prima Strada on Bridge Street has been welcomed by the area's many office workers. You've heard about their pizzas, but don't miss out on Matt's sandwiches. Like Devour, the selections change regularly, but with consistently pleasing results. A sample from the blackboard: the Salame, Soppressata Salami, provolone cheese, red onion, fresh arugula with a mustard, rosemary and lemon aioli on their house wood oven-fired ciabatta buns.

Cake Kerfuffle

Sat, 20 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

It's been a while since we've had a good foodie face-off, but this one was worth the wait. It all began last week, when baking legend Rose Levy Beranbaum (author of The Cake Bible, The Pie and Pastry Bible, The Bread Bible, etc.) lunched with some friends at the much lauded Breslin in NYC. Everyone enjoyed their lunch, but the group was met with some hostility when, following their main course, they pulled out some of Rose's cake, and asked for forks and plates. There was a little kerfuffle with the waiter, and then the chef. In the end they were only given forks but no plates, and an additional charge of $25 appeared on the bill under "cake fee". (You can read Rose's full account of the event that "left a bad taste in her mouth" on her blog, or read the NYT's summary of it here).

What is most interesting about this dispute is how divided the community is on this issue. Some chefs and restaurateurs have rallied to Rose's cause, voicing (or tweeting) their shock at the rudeness demonstrated by the staff at The Breslin, while others defend the restaurant, and challenge Ms. Beranbaum's behaviour. You only need to scroll through a few of the (very entertaining) comments left on either site to see that the world seems to be made up of two kinds of people: those who think it's okay to bring your own food into a restaurant, and those who don't.

I have to say that much as I like Rose's cakes, I fall into the latter group. My first reaction was "why didn't she just save her cake to have at home later, with a cup of tea?" Perhaps if she'd been at a restaurant that didn't serve dessert, it would have been more acceptable, but The Breslin has a dessert menu. And a pastry chef.

What do you think? Click here and tell us where you stand on this restaurant etiquette issue:

A) I think it's fine to bring a bit of your own food to a restaurant, as long as you're paying for other items on the menu.

B) Eating out means eating other people's food. Leave your own food at home.

We'll post the results on eatmagazine.ca.

Fed Up with Julie

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Photo: At the Listel Hotel media launch for Dining Out For Life: Mark Wendenburg, Senior Winemaker, Sumac Ridge Estate Winery; Lisa Martella, Executive Director, A Loving Spoonful ; Sheena Sargent, Executive Director, Friends For Life Society.

Credit: G. Hynes

It was pitching down rain, and my husband and I were both just on the mend from wicked colds. We felt like a bit of dining indulgence. The two of us decided to forgo the stove, ditch doing dirty dishes and go on a date. Cru is about a five-minute walk from our place, just enough to make an arm-in-arm soggy stroll romantic. The cozy restaurant’s Thursday’s date night menu—a three course dinner for two with a bottle of wine for $99 turned out to be a great meal deal if ever there were one. A Riesling-poached Anjou pear with micro greens, Poplar Grove’s Tiger Blue cheese and toasted hazelnut preceded my main course of sweet seared Qualicum Bay Scallops on a bed of tender braised Savoy cabbage, and Steve’s creamy butternut squash risotto. Chocolate truffle torte with peanut butter mascarpone was like finishing up with Reese’s peanut butter cups for grown-ups, but way better. And the wine was no slouch either. Expecting a modest little white to be included, I was surprised and pleased we were offered a bottle of Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris. A hundred bucks for a special night out? Not bad at all.

So, on March Thursday 25th, make a date of it at Cru, or any one of the 230 plus restaurants that have signed on to Dining Out for Life. Twenty-five percent of the establishments’ take will go to Friends for Life which provides services to persons with any life-threatening illness including cancer and Hepatitis C, and Loving Spoonful a volunteer driven, society that provides, nutritious meals to people living with HIV/AIDS. Sumac Ridge is this year’s wine sponsor and a dollar from every bottle purchased will also be go to the cause.

There’s a cool contest too. Email a photo of your gang having a fine time along with a 100-word caption (dofl@thefinerdetails.ca) on why dining out is important to your team. The best pic and blurb will win Dinner for Eight (5 course meal) in a private dining room at O'Doul's Restaurant & Bar, and will appear in Business in Vancouver.

Dining Out For Life is taking place on March 25th throughout Vancouver, Whistler, the Fraser Valley and Vancouver Island. Log on to diningoutforlife.com for a list of participating restaurants and their menus.

Up and Coming: Chef Dan Hayes

Tue, 16 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo credit: Eva Cherneff

The next Jamie Oliver? Maybe. Then again, maybe not. He just might be better… With a strong education in seafood and sustainable fishing practices, Chef Daniel Hayes may just be the next big thing. Born and raised in London, England, Chef Dan Hayes has over 12 years in the food industry and has made his way through Europe working in restaurants such as Poissonerie De L’Avenue (London) to La Vinoteca, at the Insotel Fenicia Prestige (Ibiza, Spain).

Fuelled by the passion and inspiration with his connection between nature and food, he distinctly remembers catching his first fish and hunting for his first partridge in the English countryside. “I immediately became aware of the relationship between those experiences and the food on my plate” says Hayes.

This connection is abundantly apparent in his cooking and teaching; he does not simply pull fillets of fish from the seafood counter but takes the time to demonstrate how to use the whole fish, from head to tail. His food and technique is also heavily influenced, not only by the sea, but by rustic Mediterranean cooking. “Growing up I was inspired by watching big bubbling paellas being made on the beach, often with fish taken straight out of the nets that morning”.

When I ask him what his least favourite part of Victoria’s food scene is, he replies with “the lack of fresh seafood availability”. I have heard him mention this during his cooking classes, and most participants look somewhat shocked. With the explanation that follows, you quickly start to understand; “so many of the fish that are in our waters are not even available to us. Herring, mackerel, skate and dogfish are fish that are sought after in European markets but despite their abundance in our oceans, they are quite difficult to find in our markets, grocery stores and on menus” says Hayes.

His favorite thing about the Victoria food scene makes your heart swell if you also are a chef on Vancouver Island. “The community and camaraderie amongst chefs in Victoria is really refreshing - especially coming from London, where chefs and restaurants are so competitive and divided”. Hayes also touches on his love and appreciation for local products from Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands - produce, meats, cheeses, cider, beer and much more.

Now teaching at three different local cooking schools (French Mint, Thrifty Foods Cooking and Lifestyle Centre and Terralicious), as well as doing personal chef work, Hayes is making a strong name for himself as "The London Chef". Personally I can’t wait to see what he does next, and I suggest you take a look too!

For more information on Dan’s classes visit his website www.thelondonchef.ca.

Master Pasta Class

Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

“It’s a bit like a marriage,” Cory Pelan explains, as he gently pushes his thirty-year old pasta maker into place. “I try to listen to what it’s telling me… sometimes I ignore it…” Chuckles go around the crowd watching the chef and owner of La Piola interact with his Italian-made Bottene Marano pasta machine. Thanks to this event, organized by Slow Food, in partnership with La Piola, Untamed Feast and The Tuscan Kitchen, a group of keen students have the privilege of stepping into Cory’s kitchen to learn how to make fresh pasta and sauce from a pro. Carefully removing the parts to explain how the machine works, Cory caresses the brass dies for making different pasta shapes, describing the softness of the metal, and remembering a former employee who dropped the spaghetti die, denting it so badly that it had to be repaired before it could be used again. “He bought me a beer that night,” he tells us with a smile.

Cory demonstrates the simplicity of the machine, with few parts and only two settings; one to mix and one more to extrude. This prompts another memory; a separate incident where a staff member had it on the wrong setting when he was supposed to be mixing. The flour shot out the front of the machine, and the intense pressure from the extruder resulted in a hard, glass-like substance that took half an hour to hammer out of the shaft. It is obvious that these two have a strong history. It’s no wonder then that the resulting pasta tastes so good. Extraordinarily good. We’ve watched as the chef mixed his flours (a blend of semolina, bread and pastry flours) with fresh eggs, and then peeked in to check the texture, and of course, listening to the machine, added a little water to the dough. He paused to elucidate the importance of finding a happy medium between a dough that is too dry, resulting in a brittle pasta, and a dough that is too wet, resulting in a pasta that has no texture and won’t hold the sauce. The right consistency should have clumps roughly the size of hazelnuts, he instructs us. When the spaghetti begins to come out of the machine, we see that he’s nailed it. The strands show evidence of having the grain pulled back slightly as it made its exit, producing the texture that is crucial for the pasta to absorb the sauce.

And we want it to absorb the sauce – a thick pomodoro that Cory has taught us how to make, offering little nuggets of experience (“oregano: if you think you’ve got enough, add more”) as he explained the method. As with the pasta, the key to the sauce is simplicity. A few quality ingredients; extra virgin olive oil, garlic, onion, whole plum tomatoes, bay leaves and herbs, attentively prepared, will achieve the best results. Once the sauce reached the point where it needs to sit and simmer, the pot is magically replaced with one that was started earlier in the day. We admire the result of three to four hours simmering: the sauce has thickened significantly and achieved a deepened colour.

Now it’s Eric Whitehead’s turn to teach. The owner of Untamed Feast is here to show us how to make his favourite sauce showcasing his dried morels. Alberto Pizzolo, owner of the Italian Bakery, is on hand as well, reminiscing about a foraging adventure he accompanied Eric on last year, stressing how important it is for him to know where the ingredients he is using come from, and how they are harvested. Eric concocts a creamy, woodsy sauce (click here for the recipe) before our eyes and our stomachs begin to rumble. This is when Cory serves up a first sample of spaghetti al pomodoro with generous servings of freshly grated Parmesan on top. The kitchen falls silent, with the exception of some audible groans of delight.

It is time to move into the dining room for another demo, this one from Mauro Schelini, who, with his wife Gerri, own the Tuscan Kitchen. Their beautiful shop brings majolica, fine tableware, linens and specialty food items to downtown Victoria. Mauro is here to tell us about home pasta makers, as well as tortellini molds and special rolling pins for attaining the required thickness of various pastas. He shows us the Imperia model he uses in his own kitchen, and people take turns rolling out sheets of lasagna or fettuccini.

I sneak back to the kitchen to try the spaghetti with morel sauce and overhear a woman requesting that Cory sell her the remaining unused fresh pasta sitting by his machine. Someone else is commenting that “it will be hard to go back to dried pasta after today.”

I think to myself that Slow Food has done it again: another winning event, a few new recipes, and a fresh batch of converts.

The Future of Zambri’s

Mon, 8 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Rumon Carter, Artifact Imagery

The door to Zambri’s is wedged open with a stool, a tray of fresh linguine perched on top to dry. I’m a little early for my meeting with Jo Zambri, but Gina lets me in, and I sit down at a table, happy to observe the pre-lunch hour happenings. Louis Vacca is hard at work in the kitchen, putting the finishing touches on all his tempting offerings; eggplant parmigiana, sandwiches, and mixed vegetables in addition to the fresh linguine.

One of the servers comes in – it is her birthday today, and she notices the happy birthday message written on the blackboard. The chefs have bought her a bunch of flowers, which she admires before setting to work sweeping the floor and checking the tables to make sure they don’t wobble. Gina wipes the board clean, and starts writing in the day’s specials. I’ve almost forgotten that I’ve come here with a purpose other than simply to watch this lovely team in their happy interactions and preparations when Jo comes in and joins me at the table.

I’ve come to chat about the future of Zambri’s; specifically, the vision the owners have for their new location in the Atrium, set to open in August this year. Now included among the owners is sous-chef Louis Vacca, whom Jo calls away from the kitchen to come and meet me. When asked a few questions, Louis shies away, saying the focus should really be on Peter and Jo (the brother and sister team who opened the restaurant together.) “I just bought into something wonderful,” he explains, before returning to the kitchen. Jo elaborates, saying that their decision was not financially motivated. Rather, as the Zambris looked to the future, they felt it was a good time to include Louis, whom they have considered a part of the family for the past few years. The feeling is mutual – Louis returns from the kitchen a little later with a scrap of paper on which he’s scrawled a few notes for me. He’s written down what wonderful people the Zambris are – that Jo is like a sister to him, while he sees Peter as both a mentor and a close friend. He has also underlined words, emphasizing how “wonderful it is working with such amazing ingredients, local every day.”

Jo stresses that their focus now is on how to bridge the gap between the present location, and the new space down the street, which will boast eighty-five seats indoors, as well as an outdoor, south-facing patio and a patio inside the atrium. They are well-aware of their customers’ concern that the ambience may change, and while they know it can’t be the same, they are figuring out how to retain the spirit of the place that has become so well-loved by all who’ve eaten there. Certain changes are anticipated; there will no longer be counter service for the lunch hour, but table service through lunch and dinner. They will keep longer hours, and pizza will also be added to the menu. But as to the spirit of the place, well, I can tell that it is the people who most definitely make this place, and there is no doubt that the welcoming, family atmosphere and the food that has made them famous will transfer without any difficulty to the Atrium. I’m looking forward to watching it happen.

Watch for the next episode of the Eat Out Loud podcast and Adrien Sala’s interview with Peter Zambri for more about the future of Zambri’s.

Fresh vs. Frozen

Fri, 5 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Most consumers consider the quality of the fish they purchase by how “fresh” it is. Having been in the industry for more than 17 years I have come to realize that fresh, at best, usually means it is delivered to market 2 or 3 days after it was caught. It can then sit in a chilled display for 3 more days. Technically the fish is still “fresh” as it hasn’t been frozen but is it good quality?

There is a term used in the commercial fish industry; “Bottom fresh”. This means that the fish being delivered was caught during the first days at sea and was on the “bottom” of the storage hold. If we consider a fishing boat being at sea for 3 days to a week then the difference between “bottom fresh” and “top fresh” (first and last caught) can mean a great deal in the quality of the product going to market or to restaurants.

This unknown has led me to purchase almost exclusively from reliable suppliers that flash freeze fish at sea within hours of being caught. I can then be certain that the product I am purchasing will be as close to its original quality as possible without catching it myself. A good supplier will freeze the catch on board at minus 40 degrees C (or F, they are the same) within an hour or two of catching it. It arrives in my kitchen in the exact same condition every time allowing for a consistently high quality product (a rare and precious thing in my industry). Freezing will also bring a swift halt to all microbiological activity in the fish, including the pathogens which cause food poisoning and spoilage. This gives the peace of mind that the fish you are serving will be healthy and not potentially dangerous.

Another benefit of purchasing frozen (and more important in my opinion) is the ability to ship the product in a much more efficient and sustainable manner. Fresh fish is commonly shipped by air to destinations away from the coast to ensure its relative quality and value. The amount of energy used to ship fish by air is enormous and far outweighs its value as food energy. A very dangerous imbalance if left unchecked. Shipping frozen fish by road or rail can obviously be achieved with a much smaller carbon footprint left in its wake, as speed is not an issue.

I’ve seen some Chefs catching on to these facts lately, mostly due to the high quality frozen product available from companies like Finest at Sea. Much more work needs to be done to educate the public however, and the restaurant industry can set an example by making responsible choices. Organizations like Ocean Wise, Sea Choice and the David Suzuki Foundation have been instrumental in spreading awareness in the industry and giving chefs access to reliable information on seafood choices. Events like the Canadian Chefs Congress and the island Chefs Collaborative Local Food festival are further educating chefs and the public about the issues surrounding the health of our oceans and the importance of sustainable industry practices.

More important than “is it fresh?” are questions like: “where was it caught and how?”, “who caught it?” and “is the species sustainable?” If more of us ask our fish suppliers these questions the more they will be forced to include them in their business model.

For more information on sustainable fish, visit these websites:

http://www.davidsuzuki.org/Oceans/

http://www.iccbc.ca/public/index.html

http://www.vanaqua.org/oceanwise/

Cory Pelan is chef/owner of Ristorante La Piola in Victoria and past president of the Island Chefs Collaborative.

Reader Recommended: Mediterranean Specialty Foods at Lakehill Grocery

Wed, 3 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Charlie Gaucci packs up the feta at the Lakehill Grocery

With so much happening on the Victoria food scene, it sometimes occurs that certain establishments or events slip beyond the EAT radar. For this reason, we always appreciate any ‘heads-ups’ that our knowledgeable readers are inclined to share with us. Last month, we received an email from a reader reminding us about a little gem found on the corner Quadra and Reynolds; the Lakehill Grocery.

Owned by Yasser Youssef, this corner of the Lakehill Village mall is home to an impressive variety of Mediterranean specialty foods (in fact, that is what the sign on the building reads, though the business’ proper name is Lakehill Grocery). To follow up on our reader’s gentle prodding, I went for a visit, and came home with bags bursting with Mediterranean treats. When I first entered the shop I was warmly greeted and offered tea or coffee. Sitting down at the counter with my cup of tea, I soon observed that this was not special treatment reserved for visiting food reporters. Everyone who entered the shop while I was there was genuinely welcomed. Mostly regulars, who were greeted by name and a hearty handshake, but also several first time shoppers, who were gladly received by Yasser, or his employees Charlie and Sylvia, given details about the selection of cheeses or olives, or whatever they had come looking for.

After my tea, I was given a complete tour of the shop by Yasser, who clearly takes great pride in offering his clientele such a beautiful selection of products. The first stop on the tour was the dip counter, where I sampled each of the exquisite dips made daily on site. From all accounts, this is what the store is best known for. The house specialty is the walnut dip, made according to Yasser’s family’s time-honoured recipe that incorporates walnuts, red pepper and pomegranate molasses into a dip that boasts high levels of omega 3’s, as well as being gluten-free. The feta spread, tzatziki and tapenade are all popular as well, and with good reason. Next I admired the cheeses, which include the hard-to-find Bulgarian Kashkaval and the Greek Kefalotiri (also known as saganaki cheese) alongside the cow, sheep and goat fetas. The colourful olive bar offers a choice of Kalamata, Syrian, Moroccan, Turkish, Italian and Lebanese olives (conveniently all at the same price, so you can fill your container with a mix).

Yasser is well informed about each of the products he stocks. Leading me through the competitively-priced olive oils and balsamic vinegars he tells me why he favours the olive oil from Crete, explaining that the lack of industry and pollution on that island results in a clean, purer oil. He also points out the authentic certification on Italian olive oils, warning that there are many olive oils posing as Italian – he only carries the real deal.

Yasser proudly tells me his customers hail from all over the Island, as well as some regulars making the trip from the Penders and Salt Spring. He leads me to the canned good section, reporting that it is hard to keep these shelves stocked in boating season. (I pick up a can of dolmades). Walking back to the front I admire the beautiful cordials – rosewater, orange blossom water, pomegranate syrup and molasses, and eye the house-made falafel and spanakopita (the traditional spinach as well as a seasonal vegetable variety available daily). I’m offered more samples, but the dinner hour is approaching and I’ve got a Mediterranean feast in mind. I choose a selection of dips, olives, some sheep’s feta, a few portions of spanakopita, and grab a bag of sangak; a two foot long, folded Persian flatbread. All that is required at home is to toss a quick Greek salad, and we’re set to go. This could become a habit. I thank Yasser, and direct a grateful thought to the kind reader who led me to this place. I know I’ll be back.

If you have a food recommendation for us, please email editor@eatmagazine.ca or click here.

Lakehill Grocery

3949 Quadra

250-727-3632

Fed Up with Julie

Tue, 2 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Alain Pigard making cretons

I, for one, am happy the Olympic games are over. Don’t get me wrong. I had a grand ole’ time. Our athletes were remarkable. The city was gloriously insane. I couldn’t be more proud to be Canadian and a Vancouverite. But the lungs cannot breathe another cheer. The eyes can’t take another big screen. The ears can’t take more din. And the belt can’t take another celebratory bite, (or beer). While those super bodies were burning pounds I was building them. And those were proud Canadians too.

During the Olympics, I devoured Canada, sea to shining sea - from a multi-course gourmet breakfast to German farmer’s sausage with sauerkraut and suds. At the ungodly hour of six a.m. on the day before the Games officially began, some of our nation’s finest chefs-turned-short-order cooks whipped up stunning dishes at an Agriculture Canada sponsored feast in the Pan-Pacific Hotel. The culinary showcase included Canadian wheat, blueberries, beef, pork, eggs, seafood and maple syrup. Bleary eyes, assisted by a shot of caffeine, blinked wide open the second they spied the grand centerpiece (by food stylist and EAT contributor Nathan Fong). PEI celebrity chef Michael Smith, on his way to Whistler as captain of the 100 chefs who were cooking for the athletes, performed a Chef At Home routine, stuffing blueberries and cream cheese between thick slabs of grainy bread for French toast, and braised sausage in apple cider. From Montreal’s Fairmont Queen Elizabeth Hotel’s stately Beaver Club, Chef Alain Pigard gussied up old-fashioned Québécois cretons with cream, and lingonberry preserves. As my taste buds cried yes! Yes! over the pork in pork fat that dissolved into a mustard and maple sugar brioche, my arteries were pleading no! No!

For me congee (a Chinese porridge) tastes pretty much like gruel, but a barley congee topped with pork cheek and pine mushrooms from Pan-Pacific’s Daryle Nagata converted me—at least for that morning. Saskatchewan Chef Remi Cousyn topped aged rib eye with a quail egg but really all I wanted was his knockout mushroom bread pudding. New Brunswick treated us to lobster nuggets atop Yukon Gold rosti. Talk about a culinary treasure trove. Note to self: Make Toronto chef, Donna Dooher’s buckwheat dosas with curried sweet potatoes and onion, and apple-pear chutney for brunch.

Provincial Pavilions, were erected throughout the city, and existing venues had morphed into “Houses” to pump out live music, play games on the big screen, serve up beer and, of course regional fare. At The Arts-Club-turned Atlantic House, instructors and students from the maritime provinces’ culinary schools steamed PEI mussels and shucked malpeques, marinated Nova Scotia scallops, and made Newfoundland cod paté, as well as pickled herring ceviche. Most interesting, though, was the sustainable-farmed smoked short-nosed sturgeon, served with the fish's caviar, from New Brunswick. The eggs were a smoky gold-green, delightfully briny, with a slightly nutty flavour. Though they lacked the salty “pop” of Caspian caviars, they were delicious. It was also nice to learn top-notch Canadian restaurants are opting for New Brunswick luxury over the more pricey caviars from endangered wild sturgeon.

The Saskatchewan Pavilion had the air of a county fair tent with its green turf, cheek-by-jowl tables and low ceiling. Over farmer’s sausage sauerkraut and suds, friends and I cheered our gals on to gold in women’s hockey. But midst periods, I sauntered over to the “Pulses Canada” booth pushing Saskatchewan lentils. Did you know Saskatchewan produces 99% of Canadian lentils, much of which is exported to India? I didn’t.

A few days earlier, I had been invited to Gourmet Warehouse to chat with Michael and Anna Olsen, of Food Network’s Sugar and Fresh, as they prepped for next day’s Ontario Pavilion demonstration. The two worked in perfect sync making caramelized onion and apple tart with Ontario goat cheese, dry-glazed pork tenderloin with dried cherry gastrique, and an Inniskillin ice wine fruit and cream trifle. The pork dish was so good I begged the recipe.

A last-minute invitation to a “gourmet” Aboriginal Culinary dinner had me scrambling to make it to the Native Education College’s Longhouse. I was thrilled I had accepted. The reason for the dinner was complete news to me. Chef Ben Genaille, an instructor at Vancouver Community College’s Aboriginal Culinary program, formed an aboriginal culinary team two years ago, with ambitions of competing in the 2012 IKA Culinary Olympics against chefs from around the world. The meal was outstanding. Fire-roasted corn soup served with oolichan oil smacked of smoky sweetness. The delicate fish oil added an unusual but most pleasant interest. A single spot prawn garnished cattail heart cream and drizzled with wild-onion oil preceded duck-glazed crisp halibut. Braised bison with watercress and parsnip puree shredded with a touch of a fork. Cranberry bannock bread pudding finished us off. Winemaker and owner of Nk'mip winery Randy Picton led us through the wines.

At a Sunday press luncheon at the BC Pavilion Rob Clarke, John Bishop, Vikram Vij, Tojo, and Pino Posteraro were on hand to showcase West Coast fare. Local and out-of-town media slurped kushi oysters, nibbled mini Cornish pasties with cubed local fingerling potato and grainy mustard salad, fragrant curried free-range chicken, succulent house-smoked salmon sushi, and a pearl barley salad with dried berries. All plates were paired with BC wines.

And then there was the Whistler trip on the Alberta Train. Alberta leased the Rocky Mountaineer during the games, and for the time being, it will remain under wraps as the Alberta Train. On the trip up to Whistler, everything from skiing to stampeding was promoted as folks chowed down on blueberry scones, wild boar bacon and buttermilk pancakes, hearty hot grain cereal or sausage filled omelettes. On the way back it was all about the meat—elk, beef, pork and poultry—and great prairie chowder thick with potatoes, mushrooms, barley and corn. Chef Brad Smoliak was the cooking brain behind the traveling menu.

Finally I bade adieu to the Games at Place de la Francophonie, where seating was window ledge only. I held off on the poutine (with real cheese curds) and opted for the ham-and-cheese quiche to soak up the suds during our triumphant Hockey Game. I joined the French chorus of O Canada, no matter that I barely know the words in English.

It was a swell two weeks, it really was. And I couldn’t have celebrated the Olympics on Canadian and, more specifically, hometown turf, more tastefully.

Flavours of Cooper's Cove Guesthouse

Mon, 1 Mar 2010 00:00:00 GMT

I once read about a food writer who got herself into some serious hot water for reviewing a restaurant in the New York Times when she had already contributed a positive blurb to the back of the same restaurant's chef's cookbook. So, in the interest of full disclosure, let me say that yes - EAT Magazine is quoted on the back of Angelo Prosperi-Porta's Flavours of Cooper's Cove Gueshouse. Here's what we said then: "Two hundred enticing 'real' recipes where the flavour of the food is not masked, but is enhanced with simple ingredients to maintain earthy, honest flavours." We stand by that.

In the new Touchwood softcover edition, Angelo Prospera-Porta invites you into the kitchen of his Sooke guesthouse and generously shares the recipes that have made his intimate cooking classes so popular. Don't miss his signature Sea Bread, using locally harvested edible seaweeds. For locals who are interested in more information on the Cooper's Cove cooking retreats, click here.

Published by TouchWood Editions, 2010.

Battle of the Chefs

Thu, 25 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Photo: MC and host Kevin Brauch sabers a bottle of champagne blind and wearing a pair of red Olympic mittens.

Last night in the Crystal Ballroom at the Fairmont Empress hotel a cook-off of epic proportion took place as two titan chefs battled for supreme bragging rights at Mission-Emp-Possible. Each chef cooked six courses, which were presented to a panel of judges and 130 guests. From the Okanagan, chef Matthew Batey represented Mission Hill Family Estate winery and Takashi Ito represented the home team and the Empress. It was a friendly competition with a twist as each chef had to create a dish that paired with a Mission Hill wine. Judging was based on presentation, taste and how well the dishes paired with the wines.

The judges agreed that the best pairing of the evening was Chef Ito’s Seared Ahi Tuna, Braised Kinpira Burdock and Shiso Onion Vinaigrette with the 2008 MHFE Reserve Sauvignon Blanc. But the judges were divided on best dish of the night with one half going for Chef Batey’s Moonstruck White Grace Cheese and Truffle Sandwich with Fries and Cherry Ketchup and Chef Ito’s Star Anise Braised Bison Short Rib with Garlic, Rosemary, Polenta and Cambozola Cream.

When MC Kevin Brauch (The Thirsty Traveler and Iron Chef America) announced Chef Ito had defeated Batey everyone agreed that the real winners that night were the guests who had feasted on the challenge.

Montreal Highlights

Thu, 25 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: serving up the duck at La Salle à Manger

As world athletes gather to compete in Vancouver this month, an international gathering of a different ilk takes place across the country, in Montreal. Though news of the 11th annual Montreal High Lights festival has not succeeded in seeping through our Olympic fever, this celebration is important in its own way, for it serves to boost Montrealers’ mid-winter morale (well, to be generous, let’s say they’re two-thirds of the way through winter).

The ‘Festival Montréal en Lumière’ definitely aims to distract people from their weather woes. The website boasts that “it’s always warm on the festival site”, and for ten days, festival-goers can attend shows as part of the “Caliente!” series, “dedicated to hot’n’spicy rhythms.” This year’s festival, running from February 18th to 28th, is featuring a celebration of Portuguese wines and cuisine as thirty-nine guest chefs and vintners are hosted by local restaurants. In addition, six guest chefs from New Orleans, the festival’s featured city, will be in attendance.

In honour of the 11th annual Montreal High Lights Festival, I thought I would revisit some of the culinary highlights from the last trip I took to my native island. It was a flying visit that I snuck in early last December, but in that short time, I managed to fit in something old and something new. My first stop was Quincaillerie Dante, an institution in Montreal’s Little Italy since 1956, made somewhat more famous when it was featured in Gourmet’s March 1996 issue, devoted entirely to Montreal.

I had never actually stepped inside this eclectic hardware store before, but it was just as Gourmet had described it: to my right, a man examining a rifle at the gun counter, to my left, a display showcasing resident celebrity chef Stefano Faita’s newest cookbook Entre cuisine et bambini (a follow up to his first success, Entre cuisine et quincaillerie). Stefano is the son of Elena Faita, who is part owner of the shop, and founder of the popular Italian cooking school Mezza Luna, an annex to the hardware store. I wandered away from the guns, towards the gorgeous kitchenware selection, admiring the authentic pannetone papers available in various sizes. The shop was all a-bustle with pre-holiday display preparations so after a good browse and a few well-chosen purchases, I made my way back out to the snowy street.

The next culinary highlight was a bit of a surprise to me. For my father’s birthday, I had planned to take him out for a bistro lunch, thinking either L’Entrecôte Saint-Jean or L’Express would fit the bill nicely. However, Montreal had just been hit with its first snowfall of the season, and my father seemed reluctant to take on downtown snowdrift parking during the lunch rush. “How about roast beef at Magnan’s instead?” he suggested. Another Montreal institution I had heard much about but had never tried myself, I agreed, and we leisurely parked in the nicely plowed lot beside the tavern. Parking ourselves in our seats proved more of an obstacle, given how tightly packed the dining room was. Magnan’s Tavern has been the go-to spot for a reliable roast beef dinner since 1932. Situated on a busy corner in the old industrial sector that flanks the Lachine canal, little has changed in the seventy-five plus years they have been operating, except for the flat screen televisions mounted on the walls, and the fact that women are now welcome (though still vastly outnumbered, at least during the lunch hour I was there for). The menu has expanded as well, however regulars still order by the number – Number 1 being the 6 oz. portion (15.95$), climbing up to the number 5 (the 20 oz. portion, for 37.50$).

I opted for number 1, and with my first bite, understood the longstanding appeal this place holds. The roast beef au jus was perfectly saignant (rare), as I had ordered it. The well-marinated beef was tender and flavourful, the mash complimented it beautifully, and the veggies were a lovely tender-crisp, not overdone as I had feared might be the case. The building itself feels full of Montreal history, but not the one you get a little higher up the hill. The industries that line St. Patrick may have changed, but this is where the hardworking class has flocked to for good food, and Magnan still delivers. In retrospect, I don’t know why I was so surprised. The food Montreal has made famous; smoked meat, bagels, poutine, none of these can be described as gourmet, at least not in their original incarnations. For a very long time, Montreal has excelled at getting the classics done right.

Which isn’t to say that there isn’t a whole lot of exciting innovation taking place there as well. To experience something new, I had recruited three good friends to join me in trying out La Salle à Manger, rated as one of the top ten restaurants to open in 2009 by En Route last November. Hearing that this was the new project of Samuel Pinard, the chef from Reservoir, one of my old haunts, I knew it would be a memorable evening. After a happy reunion and Champagne toasts we hopped in a cab and went over the mountain, climbed over the snow bank and huddled into the bright new restaurant. David Bowie was playing over the speakers as we settled into our chairs, admiring the recycled bowling lane-topped tables and metro tiled walls. Our hosts were young, hip and deeply passionate about the food and wine we were carefully choosing.

Our attention was directed to the ardoise (blackboard) on the wall, and it was explained that each special was a serving for two, brought on a platter and then served at the table. We paired off and chose both the jeune canard embeurée au lard fumé avec purée de carottes et salade bettraves and the royale de lapin, papardelles aux chanterelles et emulsion au foie gras. But first, a few oysters – different varieties from New Brunswick, enjoyed with a 2007 Aligoté La Bête. It was the kind of meal you don’t want to end, and we certainly managed to stretch it out. The young duck I shared was the best I have ever tasted, every bite a balance of textures and flavours. Friends who usually pass on pasta helped themselves to seconds of the papardelle. Forks were enthusiastically pushed across the table, so everyone could get a taste of everything, and not miss out on any part of the experience. Someone muttered a superlative along the lines of “this is perfection”, and the server just nodded knowingly.

Unfortunately, my notes taper off somewhere before we get to the cheese plate. It’s a shame, because there were a few new Quebec cheeses I would have liked to hunt down again, but there was much wine drinking and conversation to catch up on, and we were in the right place to do it. By the time we got into a cab to take us back over the mountain almost five hours later, we’d vowed to make it a tradition – a new restaurant for each reunion. Luckily, in Montreal, festival or no festival, there is no shortage of choices.

If you go:

Quincaillerie Dante

6851 rue St Dominique

(514) 271-2057

Magnan’s

2602 rue St Patrick

(514) 935-9647

La Salle à Manger

1032 av Mont Royal Est

(514) 522-0777

A Great Catch

Mon, 22 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: a commercial fishing vessel returns to port

With a growing array of sustainable seafood options to choose from on Vancouver Island, it’s no wonder that sablefish has become exponentially popular in recent years. Found in the deep clear waters of the North Pacific, sablefish is a species of many names –it’s often also called black cod, butterfish and coalfish. Known and revered for its rich, sweet flavour and flakey texture, sablefish is sometimes compared to sea bass but lacks the negative environmental implications.

These bottom dwellers live on the ocean floor and have grey skin that’s juxtaposed by pearly white flesh. They have been harvested in BC for more than 40 years and, although they’re traditionally exported across the Pacific, Sablefish are becoming more common within Canadian borders. Originally harvested as bycatch*, Sablefish are now caught live in traps, which preserves the quality and freshness of the fish. On the ecological front, this method of fishing eliminates bycatch and the accidental harvesting of juvenile fish, ensuring a sustainable product.

When purchasing sablefish, look for firm, pearly white flesh and skin that is not discoloured. Also, keep in mind that larger fish have a superior taste and texture to the smaller ones. Sablefish is often smoked, which can be a delicious addition to purees and dips. It is also commonly available unsmoked as fillets, steaks or “J” cut, in which the head and collar have been removed. Sablefish flesh contains a high oil content which makes it perfect for high heat, quick cooking such as pan searing and grilling. Its large flakes also stand up to slower cooking methods, such as braising and poaching.

A versatile, forgiving fish, the key with sablefish is to experiment. Its fat content allows it to withstand higher heat without drying out, and its firmness ensures that it won’t fall apart when cooked for longer periods. Also, look to sablefish for your daily dose of omega-3 fatty acids. This fish, which is available year round, provides as much as wild salmon and is an ecologically responsible, local choice.

See this week’s recipe box for an excellent sablefish recipe.

*Bycatch is defined as “fish caught unintentionally in a fishery while intending to catch other fish. Bycatch are either of a different species or juveniles of the target species.” (Wikipedia)

A Promising Start to Victoria Dine Around

Fri, 19 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

One of things I like about the Victoria Dine Around & Stay in Town is going to the Tourism Victoria website and checking out all the menus. This year restaurants have the choice offering $20, $30 and $40 dollar menus. (Note: the menu you see may not necessarily be the menu you’ll find at the restaurant, as menu tend to change.)

After browsing through the various menus I settled on Canoe Brewpub, Marina & Restaurant, partly because I liked the look of their menu but also because I knew if the Canada / Switzerland hockey game was still going I’d be able to watch the game on one of the big screens in the Canoe bar.

As it turns out I sat down just as Crosby put the puck into the Swiss net in a knuckle biting shootout to win the game.

I decided on the $30 menu and began with the West Coast Chowder. The soup was delivered thick and hot in a large bowl, smoky (from the black cod) and slightly piquant (due to the Choux Choux chorizo) and brimming with potato, corn and croutons. A drizzle of evo oil finished this excellent starter.

Next up, a dish called Singapore Street Noodles. A tangle of thin egg noodles came with chunks of chicken and bits of BBQ pork, oyster mushrooms, gai lan, shredded carrot and strips of red pepper. It had been tossed in a mild, coconut curry laksa sauce. It was well prepared and tasty so I called it pretty good.

For dessert, the choice was carrot cake or chocolate brown ale cake. I went with the brown ale cake (after all Canoe is known for its craft brews.) The cake was moist with a hint of beer flavour and squeegee of raspberry sauce. A sweet and lovely ending to a fine dinner

From my first night of Dine Around I figured my experience promises a good nineteen days ahead.

Dine Around and Stay in Town runs to March 7. Visit the Tourism Vancouver or Restaurant Association website for participating menus. Out of town visitors will also find accommodations deals on the website.

Canoe Brewpub website

Tel: (250) 361-1940

450 Swift Street

Victoria, British Columbia

Tourism Victoria website

BCRFA website

The Fourth Annual Victoria Tea Festival

Mon, 15 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Daniela Cubelic, owner of Silk Road and one of the driving forces behind the Victoria Tea Festival, demonstrates the proper way of making Taiwan Oolong tea Gongfu style. credit: Gary Hynes

Green, white, red, black: a rainbow of colour was on display this past weekend at Victoria’s fourth annual Tea Festival. Billed as North America’s largest tea exhibition, it was impressive to see just how many independent tea importers and suppliers are based here in British Columbia, each covering their own specific areas of expertise. Every kind of black, oolong, green, maccha, white, red (rooibos) and herbal tea imaginable was available for tasting, and at various temperatures. Festivalgoers were treated to helpful brewing tips and information on the numerous health benefits of the different varieties by knowledgeable presenters, standing by at each of the forty stalls which filled the ground floor and mezzanine of the Crystal Garden.

New to the festival this year was Tula Teas , a woman-owned tea business based in Victoria. This enterprise is still getting off the ground, yet their beautiful display of high-grade teas imported from small, family-owned tea gardens was garnering a fair amount of interest and admiration on Saturday. Vendors came from further afield as well, such as Calgary-based Vastu Chai, whose stall artfully displayed the array of ingredients included in the authentic family masala chai recipe that forms the foundation of their business.

The Tea Festival's well-attended series of presentations included The Ache's Pride: How Yerba Mate is Saving a Rainforest and Her People, Chinese Tea Ceremony, English Tea Traditions and Blends, Rooibus and Honeybush Teas, Ceylon, the Island of Tea, and Refreshment of the Spirit: Oriental Tea & Wine Drinking Vessels. I managed to squeeze in to the back of the presentation area and catch chef Heidi Fink’s demonstration on Cooking with Tea, where attendees were treated to samples of Chai Honey Butter, Smokey Maple Salad Dressing featuring Silk Road’s Lapsang Souchong tea, and a delicate Jasmine Tea sorbet. Chef Heidi reassured the audience that all the beneficial antioxidants are transferred to foods that feature tea as an ingredient, in addition to the tea imparting a new level of complexity to a dish’s flavour.

If you didn’t make it out this year, be sure to mark February 12th and 13th on your calendars for next year. This successful fundraiser for the Camosun College Child Care Services is not to be missed.

A New Appreciation for an Ancient Favourite: Chocolate

Wed, 10 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

My favourite chocolate story is one my grandfather used to tell. He was fighting with the British Army, stationed in a small town in Holland at the end of World War Two. When the soldiers got news that the war was finally over, they went out and distributed all their chocolate rations amongst the children in the streets. I recently had the privilege of attending a chocolate seminar at French Mint, where I learned that the tradition of supplying soldiers with cacao products dates back to the time of the Aztecs. The Aztecs also provided this product; a frothy, ground cacao-based beverage, to men on their wedding nights, which brings us to this week’s chocolate holiday: St. Valentine’s Day.

Chocolate has long been used as a gift to demonstrate affection and also has an important association with a seductive power, so it is not surprising that it has become the offering of choice on February 14th. Chocolate is the world’s second largest cash crop, following closely behind wheat. There is no doubt that it is appreciated year-round, however St. Valentine’s Day has become a time when we seek out the best, and pay attention to details that are often overlooked.

If you are truly passionate about chocolate, and wish to learn more about its history, as well as the political implications surrounding its production, then I highly recommend spending some time with David Mincey, Vancouver Island’s resident chocolate expert. His course, Chocolate – Food of the Gods, has been offered through UVic’s Continuing Studies department. The three-hour seminar I attended at French Mint was a condensed version of this course, but in that time he succeeded in completely transforming my view of chocolate. Sharing a selection from his personal chocolate cellar, students learned how to taste properly; take a small bite, chew and using your tongue, push the chocolate up to the roof of your mouth, allowing it to melt before you begin to swallow. Our palates were also developed so that by the end of the three hours we could distinguish whether the cacao beans used in the sample originated in South America (a noticeable fruitiness is detected in the flavour), or in Africa (a nuttier, somewhat drier taste on the tongue) where 70% of the world’s chocolate comes from.

For David Mincey, assessing the quality of your chocolate can be determined by looking at the ingredients list: the three top ingredients should be cocoa mass, sugar and cocoa butter. Lecithin, and vanilla are acceptable additives. Milk solids are also fine, if you are after a creamier flavour. But for the purists, anything beyond that is filler, and will distract from the authentic taste of chocolate. Over the past century, we have moved further away from this authentic chocolate product, and as a result, out tastebuds have become accustomed to more highly processed, altered versions.

It is, above all, a question of taste. You may prefer a chocolate confection to the pure product, and luckily, the array of choices available to us here in BC will easily cater to all. There are many local chocolate makers and pastry chefs doing exciting things incorporating local ingredients into their creations. If you are looking to support local chocolatiers this Valentine’s day, here is EAT’s list of the top ones on Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands, and the Lower Mainland. Click the links below to find out where they available.

Vancouver Island:

Terrible Truffles

Moziro Coffee Roasters and Chocolatiers

Chocolat Chocolatiere de Victoria

Rogers’ Chocolates

Gulf Islands:

Denman Island Chocolates

Saltspring Island Chocolates

Cocoa West Chocolatier (Bowen Island)

Harlan’s Chocolates

Gabriola Island Chocolates

Lower Mainland:

New Year, New Rice

Fri, 5 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photos: A member of the Vancouver Japanese Gardener's Association demonstrates how to make mochi at the National Nikkei Museum and Heritage Centre and a plate of handmade mochi with traditional toppings: soya sauce, brown sugar, green onion, grated daikon, ground sesame and nori. Credit: Sharon Mah

Thud. Thunk. Whack. The crowd cheers. A line forms as hungry visitors clamour for a turn with the wooden mallet.

This is Mochitsuki, an ancient rice-pounding ceremony that occurs during shogatsu, the Japanese new year, which falls on January 1. Mochitsuki usually takes place in late December. At Mochitsuki, rice is pounded until it forms a sticky rice cake called mochi.

Rice holds an important place in shogatsu. As the dominant staple of Japanese food culture, rice is a symbol of livelihood, prosperity and an abundant harvest. "There is a strong connection with rice, land, people and spiritual life. It is a source of life," explains Masa Shiroki, founder of Artisan SakeMaker in Vancouver, BC.

Masa, in particular, knows the importance of rice. Not only is it a key ingredient in his sake, but he recently fulfilled a long-term goal of growing rice locally. He anticipates brewing his first batch of sake with BC-grown rice from this fall's harvest.

He tells me that sake, mochi and salt, are the three traditional items offered to invite the protection and graces of the spirits during shogatsu and in many opening ceremonies. Madoka Angel, an agriculture student at the University of British Columbia specializing in Japanese food systems, recalls a tradition at the high school she attended in Japan. "We would pour sake, salt, and place mochi at the four corners of the school swimming pool at the start of the swimming season. This brought protection to the pool, so that there wouldn't be any injuries."

While mass-produced products are easily available, it is the act of making mochi and sake the slow way that really celebrates the spirit of the new year and brings the community together.

Masa starts with milled rice, local water and Japanese yeast. These three ingredients are fermented for two months and then slowly pressed, resulting in a cloudy rice wine. Part of this wine is directly bottled as Masa's Osake Junmai Nama Nigori wine. His other two sakes, Osake Junmai Nama Genshu and Osake Junmai Nama, are the clear sake that rises to the top after the rice lees settle out of the Nigori wine. He does not filter the wine or add preservatives. Masa even makes use of the lees, called kasu, that is left after the sake is pressed: he uses it as an ingredient in dressings, marinades, soups and even home skin treatments.

Mochi made at Mochitsuki festivals has an ingredient list similar to that of sake: rice, water and patience. Steamed rice is pounded in large stone mortars by wooden mallets until it forms a soft disc. The disc is then shaped into smaller pieces called mochi, which are shared amongst local families. Mochi can be eaten with simple condiments such as soy sauce, brown sugar, grated daikon and sliced green onion. It is often grilled or placed in a celebratory soup called zoni. To create a new year's offering called kagami mochi, three cakes are stacked and then eaten fifteen days after the new year. Factory-made mochi is available at some Asian food markets, but have a smoother consistency and loses much of its rustic texture.

Viewed as a symbol of good luck and livelihood, rice cakes are found in the feasts of other Asian countries as well. Chinese tangyuen and niangao, Vietnamese ánh chưng, Korean ddeok gook, and Burmese mont lone yei baw, are all part of Lunar new year feasts, which takes falls on February 14 this year. And if Masa has his way, rice will soon become a part of BC's own local food culture.

In the meantime, you can find mochi and Masa's sake in restaurants and markets throughout Vancouver Island and the Lower Mainland, including:

Artisan SakeMaker

1339 Railspur Alley, Vancouver

Fujiya

912 Clarke Drive, Vancouver

3624 Shelbourne Street, Victoria

Sakura Japanese Products

1213 Quadra Street, Victoria

Spinnakers Wine Merchants

130-176 Wilson Street, Victoria

Zakkushi

823 Denman Street (and other locations), Vancouver

National Nikkei Museum and Heritage Centre's Annual Mochitsuki Day (usually in December)

6688 Southoaks Crescent, Burnaby

A New Era for Victoria's Coffee and Tea Culture

Tue, 2 Feb 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: a selection from Jill Heffner's teacup collection. Servers expertly match suitable cups and saucers for each customer.

Part 2: Move over, Murchie's

I’m actually a big fan of Murchie's. They make good coffee as well as tea, and their scones and pastries never fail to impress. They are undoubtedly one of the reasons (along with Afternoon Tea at the Empress and Butchart Gardens, not to mention White Heather and the Blethering Place) why Victoria is often referred to as Canada’s tea capital. However, the focus seems to be shifting from teatime to tea experience. This shift began with the opening of Silk Road a few years ago, but the trend has continued more recently with last summer’s arrival of JagaSilk Teabar. This serene spot tucked into a corner of the Nootka Court is the perfect place to visit for a masterfully brewed cup of single estate, organic Japanese maccha tea. Their limited offering loose teas are imported in micro batches to ensure the highest quality. Owners Miyuki and Jared Nyberg impart their expertise as they serve, using master potter Harumi Ota’s ceramic mugs and cups as vessels for their crisp, aromatic green teas.

The most recent addition to Victoria’s collection of tearooms is Venus Sophia. Located at 540 Fisgard St., in the heart of Chinatown, it was described by one visitor as an “eloquent tea room”. Before I paid my first visit, I wasn’t sure how a tearoom could be eloquent, but when you walk in, it becomes evident that the place does speak to each visitor differently, triggering various memories and evoking distant locations. Owner Jill Heffner reports that many guests have approached her, saying how it reminds them of a place they visited in Paris, or a teatime ritual shared with grandparents. Jill describes this as “combining the outer world of geographics with the inner world of experience”, and seems to be a big part what she and her husband Rod Shouldice set out to create.

Jill is very clear when she tells me that this is not a business concept, but a reflection of who they are. They wanted to develop a tearoom that truly supports the culture of tea; a culture which they obviously appreciate and respect whole-heartedly, stressing how different it can be from the coffee culture. The latter often seems designed to speed things up, increase productivity, grab your coffee and go, while the culture of tea offers “the possibility of peacefulness”, a time to slow down and contemplate.

Which is not to say that the family doesn’t like coffee. On the contrary, Jill and Rod take great pride in bringing in freshly roasted Oso Negro beans from Nelson, including a Venus Sophia blend that has been made just for them. They also serve Level Ground coffee, Red Espresso (a South African rooibos prepared as espresso would be) and of course, a wide range of teas from Two Leaves and a Bud, Silk Road and organic teas blended in California. For the time being, the menu is à la carte, although they are considering a fixed tea menu for the summer months. They offer a number of options for people with dietary restrictions; while the business continues to put the finishing touches on their kitchen, J & J Raw Foods supplies a variety of raw treats, from carrot cake to cheesecakes, and Cascadia provides the bread for their selection of house-made sandwiches. We are not talking about cucumber triangles, either. I sampled the scrumptious open-faced Prosciutto, Pear and Gorgonzola, sharing Rod and Jill’s fondness for mixing fruit with savoury foods. Soups and salads are also made in-house, and requests have been made for Jill to bottle and sell her special (lemon, garlic tahini) dressing.

Increased curiosity and education surrounding tea production and consumption has led to happy changes in Victoria’s tea scene. Whether you are looking for a traditional teatime, or a brand new tasting experience, Victoria has tearooms that cater to all.

Foodie Flicks at the Victoria Film Festival

Sun, 31 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Last night I saw “Focaccia Blues”, an Italian documentary set in a real-life town in Puglia. It’s a satirical story about McDonald’s opening a restaurant in a typical Italian town where, naturally, there isn’t much appreciation for fast food. The focaccia maker next door to the McDonald’s assisted the giant in their permanent closure. It’s a pretty light look at the situation, but is a charming look at the Italian food culture. The icing on the cake was a visit – in the flesh – by Cliff Leir who brought focaccia for the entire audience from his Fol Epi wood-fired oven bakery in the Dockside Green development. There is a second showing of “Focaccia Blues” the evening of Thursday February 4th.

Today I attended “The Coca Cola Case”. A powerful look at Coca Cola’s involvement in paramilitary operation particularly in Colombia and Guatemala, this Canadian documentary is well worth seeing. It’s admirable to see the fight of the selfless lawyers and the people who have been affected by torture and death that is directly linked to this corporate giant. It certainly left a bad taste in my mouth.

“Cooking With Stella” will be screened this evening, a Canadian film which takes place in India. “Food Design” screens Sunday February 7th, the final day of the festival. It is a German documentary that sounds very intriguing:

Food Design shows how form, color, smell, consistency, sounds eating, technique, and even history influence what we consume and how we consume it. It's a documentary that wants you to think of foodstuffs in the same way as Armani suits, Alessi coffee cups and Ferraris. It's making a case for a design discipline that has received little attention, inviting its audience to take part in a sensual journey through the wonderful world of food. If that heavily manufactured sensibility of food frightens you more than just a little, be prepared to have your own assumptions challenged here. The people who think about food have already been thinking about those food assumptions too.

Purchase tickets on line victoriafilmfestival.com

Visit Kathy's website at www.TravelWithTaste.com

Fed Up with Julie

Fri, 29 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: High Tea at the Hotel Grand Pacific

With fewer and fewer visits “across the pond”, I was beginning to lose touch with the wining and dining scene in the city that spawned the magazine. So with laptop, overnight bag and a 5am coffee firmly in hand, I aim for the first ferry on a rainy Friday morning to mix a little business with pleasure.

I am billeted at the handsome Hotel Grand Pacific, steps from the Black Ball Ferry Line and overlooking the inner harbour. From my comfy room I watch seaplanes buzz in and out like large mosquitoes and the Coho pull out of dock heading toward Port Angeles. And would you look at that! Complimentary high-speed internet. (I balk at the $15 daily rate that so many top-hotels charge). Tucked into my GP logo-ed terry robe I hunker down to write, leaving the room only to pad to the pool and to meet a colleague for afternoon tea. Grand Pacific’s High Tea with a difference—not a cucumber and cress on white in sight. Earthy black teas (Pu-Her was that day’s feature), or fragrant white and green teas are served in a French Press. A four-tier tray is piled high with savoury and sweet. There is bannock, and cheese scones, tiny pots of local preserves and chantilly cream, tea-cured salmon on brioche, free range egg salad on mini-croissants, puffy pastry filled with David Woods goat cheese and roasted tomato, skewered spot prawns, Cowichan Bay duck confit on a lattice-work pastry, custardy citrus squares, fruit laden chocolate “shells” and mini-cinnamon rolls. Impossible to do it all justice, our gracious server boxes carefully the remaining morsels for me to cart away, maybe, for later nibbles.

My husband rolls into town early evening (He is grateful for my packed up “tea”.) A late dinner in the Mark parallels the afternoon’s treats. Chef Mark Minshull pays marvelous heed to a perfectly poached free-range egg atop winter greens, Cowichan Duck breast with molasses butter, and a superb spot-prawn pot-au-feu with baby vegetables. Service is impeccable, without being gushy.

Early Saturday morning I whip out to Canada’s own Lee Valley Tools in Colwood to fetch my tickets for three March workshops (now sold out) not available at the Vancouver’s store. There are more ways to connect with food than firing it down your gullet—like making and planting stuff. I pity the instructor who will teach me to “turn” a wooden (salad?) bowl and pepper mill during two woodworking seminars. (I take small comfort in knowing that my woodworking could be no worse than my sewing). Whoever is leading the Heritage seed workshop will have a far easier time of it.

En return route to town I wheel in to the Root Cellar for buttery fingerling spuds, the curliest, most tender endive, pencil-thin bunched carrots, but really, just to be amidst the Saturday morning jostle. An Illy Americano and decadent pastry at La Collina adjacent to the market, warms the fingers, clears the head and goes right for the hips.

La Piola, at lunch passes for a village osteria one might stumble on in Italy, where the greeting is friendly, the tables are covered in oilcloth, cutlery is simple and the place is a chatterbox. And where a salad of fresh fixings, a plate of simply sauced home-made noodles, or maybe a Margherita pizza, and a glass of house red sets you up for a walk—and a nap.

Late afternoon Steve and I root around Russell’s for books. (I come away laden with a book devoted to growing micro-greens, The Potting Shed Papers and The Bishop’s Garden, a handsome tome packed with seventeenth century botanical drawings). We thumb through our literature over a pint of Driftwood Ale at Bard and Banker Scottish Public House.

Stage is everything we look for in a bistro when we are out of town—an intimate space bursting with local folk, offering tasty local fare, a small, well-chosen, well-priced wine list itemized on a blackboard. (Any time I can sip on Altesino Rosso for five bucks, generous taster, has my vote). We love our grainy housemade sausage, crisp falafel with a julienned “Greek” salad and the garlicky parsleyed wild mushrooms on rustic toast.

While the Canucks trounce Pittsburgh’s Sidney Crosby, the curtain comes down on the day with a nightcap (my perfect Woodford Manhattan is, well, perfect, and surprisingly affordable) from our wingback chairs in the hotel lounge.

Work is accomplished. We have been well fed and are well rested. A brisk walk along the waterfront brings us back to the hotel early afternoon nosh of Dim Sum (and then some) in the Pacific Restaurant. While Steve goes for a shellfish stew, I opt for sautéed tender Asian greens, steamed buns stuffed with edamame and Cowichan Bay chicken, and spinach globes wrapped tightly a crab/spot prawn mixture. It’s a tasty end to a brief our brief sojourn.

If you go:

Hotel Grand Pacific, the Mark and Pacific Restaurant

463 Belleville St.

250-386-0450

Lee Valley Tools

314 Wale Rd.

250-391-9553

The Root Cellar

1286 McKenzie Ave.

250-477-9495

La Collina

1286 McKenzie Ave.

250-477-1663

La Piola

3189 Quadra Street

Victoria, BC V8X 1E9, Canada

(250) 388-4557

Russell Books

734 Fort Street

Victoria, BC V8W 2P5, Canada

(250) 361-4447

Bard and Banker

1022 Government Street

Victoria, BC V8W, Canada

(250) 953-9993

Stage

1307 Gladstone Avenue

Victoria, BC V8R 1R9, Canada

(250) 388-4222

A New Era for Victoria's Coffee and Tea Culture

Fri, 22 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

It is easy to take good coffee for granted when it is readily available to you. But take a road trip, say, across Canada, and you soon discover that quality java is not always so easy to come by. This was my experience two summers ago when my family and I made our big westward trek. I’m sure there must be some good coffee in the provinces between Quebec and British Columbia, but I didn’t find any along the TransCanada. As we drove through the Rockies I heaved a sigh of relief: finally, I thought, I won’t have to search for it anymore. It had been a long, long week in a truck with three kids and two Siamese cats, and that corporate green mermaid had become my new best friend.

How thrilled I was, then, to land in Victoria, with almost an overabundance (if such a thing is possible) of first class, independently owned, locally roasted coffee suppliers. I already had an inkling of the intense pleasure Victorians take in their coffee, having stumbled upon Colin Newell’s Coffee Crew blog before moving here. Colin’s extensive website turns his obsession into a tool for education. If you need to know anything about café culture in Victoria, or consumer information on the best espresso-cappuccino machines, CoffeeCrew.com is your one-stop answer. As I began researching this article, it made perfect sense to check in with Colin first.

When I naïvely asked Colin what his favourite new coffee shop was, he swiftly redirected the question. There is an important evolution to the coffee scene that must be taken into consideration. He listed no less than seven establishments that deserve acknowledgements when it comes to advancing café culture in Victoria and the lower Island. Here, in Colin’s own words, is what you need to know:

1. Drumroaster Coffee (Mill Bay) This place must be considered in the lower Island grand scheme of things because it is run by the husband and wife team of Geir and Pat Oglend - they are the originators of great coffee and espresso on Vancouver Island - they brought the culture here by installing some of the first espresso machines on the lower Island in the late 70's - Their passion for specialty coffee is, as of yet, unequaled on Vancouver Island. Geir also roasts his own high quality Arabica coffee on the premises and participates in as many coffee farmer-coop friendly (and beneficial) programs as he can.

2. Discovery Coffee (two locations: Discovery Ave and Oak Bay and Amphion Ave.) They have been roasting and serving some of the best coffee for a couple of years now and have opened a new cafe at the corner of Oak Bay and Amphion Ave. recently. They also source many of their fine coffees from the "Cup of Excellence" program which gives top dollar to the farmers and coops in coffee producing regions. Their Oak Bay avenue cafe features a "Vacuum Bar" which brews 'cup at a time' single origin (one farm) coffees that are superlative in terms of flavor.

3. Habit Coffee and Culture (500 Block of Pandora) Under the guiding hand and watchful eye of Shane Devereaux, Habit packages cool and hip into every cup, gets their coffee from Hines on Granville Island and provides an open and airy space in the heart of Old Town.

4. Street Level Espresso (700 Block of Fort Street next to The Dutch Bakery) Ken Gordon's small but ultra-hip joint caters to the arts and culture crowd with awesome espresso based drinks.

5. Caffe Fantastico (three locations: Quadra & Kings, McKenzie Ave-Cook Street Village, Dockside Green) Ryan Taylor took Victoria coffee to the next level in the mid-90's and has never needed to look over his shoulder. Each location has it's own flavor that suits the neighbourhood to a tee. Great coffees roasted at the Quadra location and always dated fresh.

6. The Stick in the Mud (Sooke Village) David Evans brings caffeinated cool to the Sooke Hills and is gradually moving towards his own roasted coffee products.

7. 2% Jazz Sam Jones roasts great coffee in the Western Communities and holds court at his Times-Colonist "so cool it hurts" joint.

I still felt the need to check things out for myself, so went off to the new Oak Bay Discovery Coffee to admire their halogen-heated siphon method in action. Enthusiastic and informative barista Matt Archambault prepared the single origin (all the beans from one farm) Brazilian Daterra reserve behind a protective glass (when prepared incorrectly, the glass siphons may explode, adding an element of danger, or performance art, to the experience), offering me tasting notes (nuts and cocoa with creamy mouthfeel) and detailed explanations about the importance of grinding the beans just prior to brewing and perfecting a gentle swirl as the brewed coffee returns to the base of the siphon.

I also stopped in at Habit for a perfect macchiato, and later spoke with owner Shane Devereaux about opening up a second location in the Atrium this August. He’s excited to be able to offer Victorians a late-night quality coffee experience.

New to the Victoria coffee scene is James Bay’s Mile Zero coffee, brewed on site at the Niagara Grocery by Ken Winchester. With one table in place and a banquette being built, this will be another spot to sit and enjoy ethically traded, organic coffee. One thing is for sure: in this town, you don’t have to travel far for exceptional coffee.

Check back on Monday for Part 2: Move over, Murchies!

Fed Up with Julie Pegg

Fri, 15 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

“I’m as jumpy as a cat in a room full of rocking chairs”, admits Rob Feenie. Feenie has graciously wedged me in between busy and nervous the morning of the Gold Plate Awards, to chat about his two-day challenge—comprised of three stressful competitions--a mystery wine pairing, an Black Box event a la Iron Chef, and a Grand Finale.

Weeks previously, Rob wowed the judges during the Vancouver heat with a winning duo-dish of Duck confit and boudin noir made of Chilliwack’s Polderside Farm chicken. Garnish of puréed fig bridged the meat with Road 13’s luscious Rhone-style white blend. Now he’s about to sweat it out against other Canadian chefs.

Feenie’s finale (riffs on his signature dishes) are a feather-light butternut squash ravioli, mascarpone and shaved black truffle along with a top Canadian prime, 36-hour slow-braised beef short rib napped with Vancouver Island chanterelles. Alas, they failed to garner the gold.

Fast-forward two weeks. Undaunted, a cheery, confident Rob rolls out a few gold nuggets for the media at the sexy Bentall Center Cactus Club with a few new dishes he plans to dole out in several locations.

Feenie’s creations clock in for about half the price you would pay for a local, sustainable, quality and delicious dish in a top-notch dining room. And you can wear your Levis. (Though I would suggest you refrain from the torn and tatty).

A splash of Hendrick’s Gin and crackly Parmesan crisp cranks good ole’ tomato soup way up. Rob’s signature ravioli meets tender/firm giant sautéed prawns on the new menu. Weight watchers won’t miss the calories in a delicate dish of marinated sablefish floating in a dashi broth alongside shiitakes, mushrooms and naturally buttery fingerling potatoes. Shiitakes reappear, with portabella, button and crimini cousins in Rob’s take on Hunter Chicken. Our Grande Finale is an “I’ll-just-have-one-more-bite” pumpkin sponge cake with milk chocolate mousse.

Medals or not, Feenie clearly delights in channeling his energy toward casual fine dining. Ergo, Vancouver diners love that he loves it; we get to enjoy RF “gold” plates at the Cactus Club as often as we want.

For an easy recipe for Rob’s winning duck and chicken confit click here.

An Interview with Matt Thompson

Tue, 12 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Being from a small community in Northern British Columbia, I am drawn to small, local, friendly restaurants with good food. My boyfriend introduced me to Bistro Caché a few months ago. Each visit has been a unique experience, with consistently high levels of food and service quality. We have begun making this our little spot to celebrate special occasions.

The proprietors, Matt and Cheryl Thompson, are very warm, friendly people and it shows in their family-run business. Their restaurant could easily accommodate sixty guests but they have managed to make the setting feel very intimate and warm, much how I imagine it would be at a small French café. In an attempt to learn more about how this young, entrepreneurial couple has managed to create the memorable experience that a visit to their restaurant has become, I asked Matt the following questions:

Where did you study culinary arts?

I attended Dubrulle International Culinary and Hotel Institute in Vancouver (2003), today known as The Art Institute of Vancouver – Dubrulle Culinary Arts.

What was your first job cooking?

My first cooking jobs were as a pizza cook in my friend’s restaurants in Sidney, B.C: Theo's Place and Odyssia. My first real cooking job was at Dock 503 in Sidney, B.C.

Is there a favourite dish you enjoy preparing more than others?

I enjoy preparing our duck confit dish very much because of the time and effort it takes and the attention to detail necessary to properly execute the various stages before a finished product reaches the table. That being said, I enjoy cooking almost anything tasty for my friends and/or family the most.

When did you know that you wanted to be in the restaurant business? And at what point did that become a desire to have your own restaurant?

Being around my friend’s restaurants as a teenager I found the lifestyle appealing. As I matured and began to take my jobs more seriously and treat my profession as a career, my own place seemed a  natural progression.

What would be the most important thing you would tell someone just opening any new business? How about specifically a restaurant?

The most important thing I would tell someone opening a business would be: Follow your heart and stay true to your beliefs, but at the same time be aware of how emotion can cloud your judgement and act accordingly. Also I think having the humility to seek advice is something to cultivate. Advice comes from many places, I try to hear that which is congruent with my values, but also listen carefully to that which at first may seem wrong to me.

What are some of the ways that you set your restaurant apart from others?

I set my restaurant apart from others by serving great food with as little compromise as possible that we don't see everywhere. I also feel that we can offer a personal touch from Cheryl and myself that  larger places are unable to match.

How do you keep yourself motivated and inspired?

Being a teacher/role model to junior staff is always motivating to me. I take the responsibility of furthering our trade in these young people very seriously, and try to increase their training and  development when possible. I also find their enthusiasm inspiring. Other inspirations I find everywhere. From television to magazines to cookbooks and everyday life, food is everywhere and my mind is constantly whirring with ideas and contemplating their practical application, even in my dreams!

Is there anything that you would like to change or are in the process of changing?

Our menu is dynamic and often changes twice a week. I am never completely satisfied and am constantly changing things at the restaurant. I tell people all the time that this is a work in progress  and that I am never satisfied. The day that I am content with the place is the day I go do something else.

What individual has had the greatest influence on your life, either personally, professionally, or both?

Me!

What do you mean by that?

There have been many people that have influenced me and my career,  not one that stands out. Ultimately I am in charge of my own destiny,  and my personal and professional life reflects that!

Where do you see your restaurant being in 5 years?

I see Bistro Caché being a busy, successful, neighbourhood restaurant full of familiar, happy faces through the next five years and beyond.   

To try one of Matt Thompson's recipes at home, visit our recipe box this week.

Matt & Cheryl Thompson, Chef/Owner

Bistro Caché

7120 West Saanich Road

Brentwood Bay, BC

Tel: 250.652.5044

Well Worn

Fri, 8 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

photo: Colourful Pyrex bowls, Fire King mugs, a Parisian milk carafe and Alessi French press credit: Sharon Mah

It’s a mess. Shelves groan under a stack of pans, mismatched china, egg beaters and gadgets of bygone kitchens. There is no order and no attempt at creating a display. The only décor is a sprinkle of dust on the shelf. In other words, it’s perfect.

These are the sites of the vintage shopping hunt, places where you can walk away with a friendly cast-iron pan, a set of copper pots or even a vintage stand-mixer, for just a few dollars. While some cooks get a thrill from shiny new gadgets, others are stirred by pieces that have been passed down through generations of kitchens and have a history of good home-cooking. Tools are an essential part of every meal, and a familiar, well-worn object can be a source of reassurance when tackling a new recipe or a tough crowd.

They can conjure up memories of cooking family recipes taught in a grandparent’s kitchen, or the excitement of cooking on your own for the first time with hand-me-down pots and pans.

Purchasing vintage cookware is a way to acquire reliable gear without compromise. Items that are in good condition have demonstrated they can stand the test of time, and have often been designed and manufactured in North America and Europe for a lifetime of use. Pieces are donated or sold locally, and visiting thrift shops and reviewing comunity bulletins is just one way to reuse and reduce. Kristen Stocks, owner of vintage store and online boutique Deluxa, purchases vintage kitchenware because of its sustainability: “I love the idea of preventing new consumption while saving something that may have been headed to a landfill.” They also add some color and personality to a mise en place or dining table.

When purchasing vintage kitchenware to be used for cooking or serving, look foremost at its condition. Janet Rose of Over the Hill Vintage, an online and retail shop based in Nova Scotia, recommends pieces that are worn, but not worn out. She writes, “I find that if an item has been previously enjoyed but not abused then it will generally still hold it’s value." Items should not be chipped, burnt or damaged, and should ideally come with their original lids or accompanying pieces. If intended for décor, look for a piece that appeals to you aesthetically, whether you are keen on Scandinavian design, fanciful embellishments, or a rustic look.

While there is no guaranteed source for finding what you want, the possibility exists wherever there are cooks and kitchens. Antique stores stock pieces that have been researched and any flaws have been pre-identified. The stock is often well-edited, but they may command higher prices. Estate sales and auctions can result in unique finds, although the selection can be limited or specific to a particular taste. Church, farm and garage sales are also places to find neglected items in great condition for a bargain price, but may require more patience and scavenging, as is the case for thrift and consignment shops. Local bulletin boards and online retailers are also a way to collect vintage pieces.

But it doesn’t have to be that much work. The best pieces can be those that simply catch your eye or jog your memory. Rose describes vintage items as the “comfort food” of kitchen tools. They are pieces with a past of countless people, meals, families and homes, all of which, speculates Stocks, may “wear off just a bit on the materials.” My glass mixing bowls have probably made more meals than I have eaten, and I’m sure having that history in my tools only makes the ingredients taste better. After all, at the end of the day, it’s all about making good food.

Some places to look for vintage kitchenware in Victoria:

Lund’s Auctions, 926 Fort Street

Salvation Army , 525 Johnson Street

James Bay United Church, 511 Michigan Street

Victoria’s craigslist household items site

New Year's Eve on the West Coast

Mon, 28 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Not sure what to do for New Year's Eve? Look no further. We've rounded up the most appetizing events taking place December 31st across BC. Wherever you spend it, we wish you a very happy New Year's, from all of us here at EAT.

Victoria

New Years Eve Celebration at AURA with Poplar Grove

AURA waterfront restaurant + patio and Poplar Grove Winery will clink their gold medals together to ring in the New Year of 2010.   Your evening begins at 7pm under the stars, in the spectacular Terrace Ballroom with Poplar Grove’s, award winning, Wine Maker Ian Sutherland. You will sip as Ian takes you on a taste tour through Poplar Grove’s entire wine selection. Next it’s off the AURA waterfront restaurant + patio for your gastronomic extravaganza. AURA’s culinary brigade and talented service team takes you into 2010 with a 5-course wine paired dinner. Now it’s time to put on your dancing shoes, grab a glass of bubble and get down to the sweet dub sound of Green Law. $169

Call 250-414-6739 to make a reservation.

Paprika’s New Years Eve

$80 ~ 4 Course Dinner (early seating)

$90 ~ 5 Course Dinner (late seating)

call 250. 592. 7424 for reservations

Casablanca New Year's at the Superior Café

For the third year in a row, the Superior Café is putting on a New Year’s Eve party with style. Dinner, Casablanca viewing, a costume contest and more on December 31st. Visit their website for more details. Call 250.380.95915 for reservations.

Café Mulatta's Jamaican New Year’s Dinner and Dance

Call 250.385.9616 for details and reservations.

Spinnakers 3 course dinner/ fundraiser.

Call 250. 386.2739 for details and reservations.

S ips Artisan Bistro's 6 course dinner with local ingredients

Call 250.590.3519 for details and reservations.

Heron Rock Bistro's 5 course New Year’s Eve Dinners with Local Ingredients

Reservations: 250-383-1545

To view the full menu, click here

1st Seating (reservations between 4:30 and 6:15 pm) $65

2nd Seating (reservations between 8-10pm) $75

Vancouver Island

New Year’s Eve Feast on the Mountain

In the Comox Valley, the folks at Triaculinary like to celebrate all the full moons with a feast. The Triaculinary website explains: “A blue moon is a second full moon in a calendar month and this year it falls on New Year's Eve. To celebrate, we're joining forces with Sushi-Mon Mt. Washington to host a Full Moon-Blue Moon Feast on the Mountain.”

The event will take place at Sushi-Mon on Mt. Washington, at 7 pm. Featuring a 5-course Japanese-inspired menu created by master sushi chef Ky. Price includes a Blue Moon Cocktail upon arrival and a glass of Blue Moon's port-style wine with dessert. Beer and wine not included.

Reservations are required, phone (250) 218-3352 to book your space now.

New Year's Eve at Sooke Harbour House

Ring in the New Year westcoast style at a beautiful coastal Inn. The Sooke Harbour House is hosting an event with live musical entertainment by Roxxlyde, dancing, light appetizers, cash bar, party favours and a toast at midnight. A raffle will be held shortly after midnight with great prizes to be won! $49.95 per person excluding taxes, beverages and gratuities. Event begins at 10 pm until 1 am. A fun local event! Call 250-642-3421 or 800-889-9688 today to reserve your table.

Vancouver

VOYAge into 2010

Ring in the New Year at Loden Vancouver and Voya Restaurant

Cap off the decade in style at Voya Restaurant and Lounge, December 31. Chef Marc-Andre Choquette has created a trio of 'medal worthy' menus perfect to celebrate New Year's on the eve of Vancouver's biggest year yet!

7 Course Gold Menu - $95

5 Course Silver Menu - $75

3 Course Bronze Menu - $55

Call 604 639 VOYA or visit voya-restaurant.com for information and reservations.

Elixir Bistro rings in 2010 with Glitz and Glamour

OPUS Hotel Vancouver and Elixir infuse New Year’s Eve with Old Hollywood glamour. On December 31st, OPUS and Elixir Bistro roll out the red carpet and invite guests to dine in style, sip on bubbly and enjoy live entertainment The first seating is 5:30pm – 7:00pm and is priced at $40 per person plus applicable tax and gratuity. Guests who are attending dinner, as well as the countdown celebration in OPUS Bar, will dine on a four-course menu and enjoy a glass of bubbly, canapés after midnight and live entertainment. The second seating begins at 8:30pm and is priced at $75.00 per person plus applicable tax and gratuity.OPUS Bar’s countdown celebration includes bubbly, live entertainment and canapés after midnight. The festivities begin at 9pm and tickets are $45. Dress to impress in vintage glamour. Tickets and reservations are available at Elixir Bistro 604.642.0557 or contact Jessica Dunn at jdunn@opushotel.com or 604.694.2137.Those who would like to dine at Elixir Bistro and move on to another party may be seated early and savour Chef Letendre’s classic, sophisticated three-course menu. Elixir Bistro French Bistro meets affordable Yaletown glamour in Elixir. Recognized as the bronze recipient for casual French cuisine at the coveted Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards; Elixir is also a founding member of the Ocean Wise Program and Green Table Network. Chef Don Letendre specializes in classic French cuisine, crafting innovative dishes from the freshest regional and seasonal ingredients.

A Classic French Bistro New Year's Eve

Chef Stephane Istel invites you and yours to celebrate at db Bistro this New Year's Eve.

Two seatings, and two specially priced prix-fixe menus. Live entertainment.

The 5:30pm seating offers a gorgeous three-course $55 menu, plus limited a-la-carte.

The 8:00pm seating offers a delectable five-course $99 menu, limited a-la-carte, plus the Jackée Guillou jazz quartet live.

The Bistro will be offering extended brunch service on NewYear's Day. Visit the New Year's pages of their website for menu and details.

A Fine French New Year at Lumière

Limited to just 45 guests for each of Chef Dale Mackay's two New Year's dinner seatings. Both Grand Relais & Chateaux class menus are offered with optional regular and premium wine pairings, or a-la-carte cellar service.

The 5:30pm seating offers an exquisite four-course prix fixe menu for $98 per person.

The 8:30pm seating offers a delectable seven-course set alternating tasting menu for $198 per person. Visit the Lumière website for menu details.

A Gin Dinner at the Brasserie L’École

Mon, 28 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

The first Art of the Cocktail, a fundraiser for the Victoria Film Festival, drew to an elegant close with Dinner with a Twist. Four restaurants hosted a dinner, each with a unique menu and courses paired with cocktails. I wanted to attend, but in the back of mind I wondered if I might be allowed a glass of wine instead.

I snagged last minute seats to the Brasserie L'Ecole dinner which would pair Chef Sean Brennan’s cooking with Hendrick’s Brand Ambassador Charlotte Voisey’s gin cocktails. You might think that four cocktails for dinner is too much; luckily I had prepared my stomach by attending the tasting the previous evening including Charlotte’s Gimlet and Scottish Pair (more than once). I was excited to taste the gin cocktails she would conjure up to match the Brasserie’s food especially because gin lends itself to mixing well with herbs and spices. Hendrick’s gin is produced in Ayrshire, Scotland, and has prominent rose and cucumber infusions along with more conventional gin botanicals juniper, coriander, and citrus.

Gin has always been my white spirit of choice. When I sip a gin and tonic it transports me through space and time. It makes me feel at once like an old British lady and at the same time a British officer in India preventing an oncoming bout of malaria. It is also utterly refreshing.

Dinner with a Twist commenced with a classic cocktail. The French 75 was light, sparkling and pretty, the bubbles danced across the tongue awakening diners’ senses for what was to come.

One of my preferred cocktails came next. The Gimlet refreshed the palette and this lime-rich drink was a good choice to partner with the Halibut, potato confit, smoked sablefish and Savoy cabbage ragout first course. Gimlets work well with seafood because the lime enhances the fish’s subtle flavours. Try one with raw oysters.

For the second course, Chef Brennan presented what reminded me of an abstract installation on a plate in the form of dark squares of juicy Pork Rillon, light pink and white firm, juicy spot prawns accompanied by rich terracotta smooth butternut squash flavoured with harissa. Charlotte announced that the cocktail she had paired for this course was her favourite. It was called the Gin Figgle, an impeccably balanced cocktail with a deep orange colour. Before I go any further you should mix one for yourself (find the recipe in this week's recipe box).

Sipping this drink I became convinced that in fact, cocktails do go very well, in this case even better than wine, with food. I was a little shocked. The subtle spicing in both the drink and dish intrigued me. Harissa, a hot chili sauce paste originating in North Africa is not used in traditional French cookery, but appears on the Brasserie’s menu from time to time due to the Chef’s interest in North Africa’s influence on French cookery. The harissa was a good choice as it added that extra je ne sais quoi to the dish without being overpowering. The ginger root had the same effect on the cocktail.

Charlotte Voisey recommends using spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg and clove either in a simple syrup, a foam or freshly ground and sprinkled on top as garnish. Another option for a garnish is fresh cilantro leaves topped with mace blades.

Venison loin chop was next on the menu and it was the most beautiful piece of meat to have ever approached my plate. Dark red, and two inches high, the venison had presence. You could hear diners inhale as they admired the meat. This masterpiece was served with red cabbage, spice-poached quince and parsnip purée and the tender venison delivered on taste and satisfaction. My partner who is not a meat lover is still talking about that venison. Charlotte introduced the Martinez to accompany the venison and it stood up well in colour and taste with two measures of sweet vermouth to one of gin. She declared, “This cocktail is probably as close to wine as you can get” and like a good glass of red wine it did not disappoint.

Dessert was a simple and elegant twice-baked shortbread with a touch of orange oil to go with the strawberry mint mojito, a perfect digestivo after a perfect dinner.Some diners were so impressed that much to Charlotte’s delight, they continued to sip gin once the dinner was finished.

Exceptional Eats! Awards

Sun, 27 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Here at EAT magazine, we’ve decided that just writing articles isn’t enough. We want to give your voice a forum for identifying, recognizing and celebrating what is going on here on Vancouver Island that matters to you.

What excites you about the local food scene? What is it about food that affirms and consistently supports your decision to stay on Vancouver Island? Your voice reinforces a collective commitment to Vancouver Island and informs potential gastronomic developments. That is to say, your bums in seats for eats, unfolded wallet at a farm stand and drool on the counter at the cheese shop sustains Vancouver Island’s culinary culture, keeps it going and keeps it coming. Go team!

And so, we introduce to you the Exceptional Eats! Awards, a celebration of the notables from Victoria to Sointula and Tofino to Salt Spring. We have developed a list of short questions in consultation with a collection of individuals including food journalists, prominent Islanders, farmers, chefs, dedicated foodies and pe ople who just like to eat. Share your voice and vote for the Island’s best. This food-friendly poll is designed to reflect and respect what is significant and intriguing in our culinary culture. This is not about the biggest stack o’ pancakes or the best place to get a date. Get real. This is about food. This is about the real food and drink and the people who make it happen.

Please vote by filling out the survey. The Exceptional Eats! Awards can reflect the tastes and priorities of this community only if the community participates. It is time for Vancouver Island to share its voice in acknowledgment and gratitude. The Exceptional Eats! Awards will be an annual event, celebrating the bar, and raising it. It is time for our own awards, for ourselves, the industry, for visitors and for the love of the food.

By voting, you will become eligible to win one of the prizes generously donated by our sponsors. The winners will be announced in the March/April 2010 issue of EAT along with the results of the survey. By recognizing excellence, we are giving a big round of applause to all the chefs, servers, brewers, farmers and vintners and more who together make this Island such an exceptional place to eat and drink.

To vote, CLICK HERE

Voting ends Feb 01, 2010.

Both name and email address is required to be entered in the draw.

Please note: You will only be able to take the survey once per computer.

The Prizes:

• A Luxury Weekend at the Fairmont Empress Hotel in Victoria donated by the Empress (www.fairmont.com/empress) and EAT Magazine.

• The Mocca Master Thermal Brewer - The World's Best Coffee Maker donated by www.CoffeeCrew.com

• Dinner For Two at Deerholme Farm donated by Deerholme Farm (www.magnorth.bc.ca) and www.VancouverIslandLocalFood.com

Fed Up With Julie

Thu, 24 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

I wish you all a happy holiday, and warm wishes for a healthy, happy 2010 filled with family, friends, fine food and good cheer.

Tis the day before Christmas as this goes to press

Admittedly I'm in a bit of a mess

Between writing and wine sales

I've hardly been able

to even consider what fare will grace tomorrow's table

So I've carved a a few moments to ponder and pour a stiff drink

(A perfect manhattan with bourbon, I think)

Tackling the masses will make the task harder

Let's see what already lies in the larder

Roasted apples, parsnips and onions puréed into velvet

for a perfect soup starter

To go with the soup a wee bit of sherry

A tradition guaranteed to make any meal merry

I peer in the freezer to see what lurks there

Prime rib, wild game but oh! what luck

I spy in the corner a Quebecois duck

Yesterdays' breads

studded with prunes, dried berries for a savoury bed

for the bird, slowly roasted

with leaves of sage from the balcony and nuts, lightly toasted.

Duck drippings are perfect for roasting the spuds.

EAT's crispy kale should not be a dud.

Now is the time to fish for the wine cellar's best--

A silky Burgundy to pair with the feast.

Our little clan has not a sweet tooth

Poached pears in wine should be enough

To finish, a wedge of stilton with port

And walnuts or nuts of a similar sort.

Move over Mike Smith

I've come up with a winner

To rival a Chef at Home's coolest Yule dinner.

Season’s Eatings

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

‘Tis the season for full bellies and tasty treats. While it may seem natural to settle down to a stuffed turkey dinner and all the fixings on Christmas Day, the more adventurous might consider roasting a goose instead. Having just eaten our way through a turkey dinner free-for-all in October, cooking a Christmas goose can be a refreshing alternative to the Thanksgiving staple.

In North America, turkey is the go-to bird for most holiday meals. Historically, though, Europeans have feasted on Christmas goose for centuries. In fact, in Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol, the Cratchit family serves goose for their Christmas meal. Most of us won’t break from North American tradition this week, but consider goose when stuffing any bird. Its crispy skin and rich flavour rival that of any fowl and the fact that goose can be relatively easy to find and prepare might surprise some.

Most consider goose in the context of hunting which isn’t completely untrue. British Columbia’s wilderness is known for its capacity to produce delicious, local meat. Because Vancouver Island no longer has a large-scale poultry processing plant, geese are either privately hunted on the Island or most commonly bred on the mainland. So, unless you hunt or know someone who does, talk to your specialty butcher about getting fresh geese from the Fraser Valley.

Like any game, goose has a strong, distinct flavour. While turkey and chicken are low maintenance to prepare, goose requires a little bit more attention but can yield impressive results that will surprise dinner guests. When cooking goose, look for a bird that is eight to twelve pounds (bigger is not better). Be sure to prick the skin to allow the fat to seep out when cooking. When stuffing the bird, favour ingredients like apple, onion, and orange, and be sure to add liquid to the roasting pan to prevent the drippings from burning. Although the layer of fat under the skin makes goose seem like an oily bird, remember that the meat itself is relatively lean and can easily become dry if overcooked.

Use leftovers in similar ways to other poultry - shredded on a sandwich or a salad - and boil the carcass for an incredible soup base. Also be sure to save the wonderfully flavoured fat to add richness to future meals.

See this week’s recipe box for an excellent accompaniment to roast goose, cassis-braised red cabbage.

Local Treasures for Last Minute Presents

Thu, 17 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

It may sound a little old fashioned, but I can think of few presents that are better received than the food basket. I still remember the first one I received, the Christmas after my first child was born. As with many new parents, I was still in survival mode, so a basket brimming with gourmet treats beyond my everyday budget was incredibly appreciated. Not only could I have a little taste of luxury in my own home, I didn’t have to shop for it, and even better, I didn’t have to prepare any of it myself.

Putting together a gourmet gift basket is also a lot of fun, as I discovered while assembling EAT’s ‘A Taste of British Columbia’ prize package for this year’s Menu of Hope Campaign. With an abundance of exquisite foods produced here in BC, you can feel good about supporting local businesses, farmers and food producers. Here is a little round-up of some of the local treasures we’ve come across this year. This list can work two ways. Use it either as a reference for gift suggestions while you are doing your own hunting, or print it up and hand it to someone who is heading out to shop for your Christmas presents!

Here’s what went into our own prize package: a Farm Folk/City Folk 2010 calendar, a 20g. bag of Untamed Feast’s delicious dried wild mushroom products (Forest Blend), locally grown roasted hazelnuts from Butler Hazelnut Farm located on Bear Hill in Central Saanich, Vista d’Oro Farm’s Turkish Fig with Walnut Wine preserves from Langley, a ½ lb. bag of Mile 0 Roasters Niagara Blend from Victoria, Cortes Island-based Gathering Place’s Organic Rooibos Tea, and two chocolate bars from Cobble Hill-based organicfair . All of these items, with the exception the Mile 0 coffee (roasted on site at Niagara Grocery in James Bay), are available at Plenty.

Considerations were made when assembling the EAT Menu for Hope prize, given that our parcel will need to be shipped (weight) and that it will not be consumed immediately (non-perishable). If you are hand delivering a gift basket, these concerns may not matter, and more options are available. A selection of local cheeses (Natural Pastures Comox Brie just won silver at the World Cheese Awards in Spain) with locally cured meats (a new prosciutto from Ottavio’s, or pepperoni from Choux Choux Charcuterie) makes a beautiful offering. For something a little different, why not make a frozen food basket, with soups and meals pulled straight from Little Piggy and Devour’s freezers, and delivered in a cooler. Nothing will make the new parents, students or starving artists on your gift list happier.

Trevor Walker, owner of Plenty, mentions a few other great items to include in a BC food gift basket: Venturi-Schulze Aceto Balsamico (Balsamic Vinegar): made from their own grape juice, simmered to a luscious concentration over an open fire, and converted to vinegar by the slow, natural ancient process. Venturi-Schulze is located up-island near Cobble Hill. French Macarons (meringue-like with hazelnuts and praline, pistachio, or chocolate) from Rendezvous Patisserie on Salt Spring Island, and True Grain Bread's Organic Butter Stollen: a traditional German festive loaf. The True Grain Stollen is rich with organic butter, rum-infused organic Thompson raisins, almonds, organic orange and lemon zest and spice; all surrounding the marzipan center. It is available with Red Fife wheat or BC grown spelt. Both grains are certified organic and milled on site at True Grain mill. True Grain is in Cowichan Bay. BC-made chocolates by Sarandipity and Denman Island Chocolates are available at Niagara Grocery and provide a sweet element to any gourmet gift, or make great stocking stuffers. For tea lovers, head to Silk Road or JagaSilk for inspiration.

If time is pressing, these thoughtful businesses have pre-made cheese boards and gift baskets. Visit their websites (click on business names for links above) for more details. Edible British Columbia, on Granville Island, whose aim is to “set a new standard for gifts by supporting your local artisans and farmers, and ensuring our local culinary scene is sustainable,” has a wide array of foodie gift baskets that can be ordered by telephone or online, and shipped globally. It has never been easier, or more tempting, to offer local foods over the holidays.