“The great peasant staple spans the globe.”

“Love” a lentil dish daily for your chance to win a trip to beautiful Prince Edward Island to meet with celebrity Chef Michael Smith during Food Day Canada! LOVE YOUR LENTILS

First published in EAT 2011

Last year, at a popular restaurant in Rotterdam, we ate a terrine of pig head—tongue, snout, ears, cheeks—which was much better than it sounds. But, as important, it arrived atop a bed of tiny black lentils.

“From France?” my wife asked, adding that the lentils were better even than the celebrated Puy. “No,” replied the chef. “They’re beluga lentils, like the caviar, and they come from Canada.”

Indeed. From Watson, Saskatchewan’s Willow Creek Organic Grain Co. Because of their size, firmness and glossy skin, they resemble beluga caviar. Their flavour is earthy and delicate. And they’re sold in Victoria at Fairway Markets for the bargain price of $5.99 per 800-gram bag. They’re also available at Choux Choux Charcuterie

The humble lentil has always surprised us. It’s more than the miracle bean du jour. In Provence, green lentils are de rigueur with roast duck. Cutting-edge chefs are dishing up the legume in all its colours—green, red, black, yellow—to diners who barely know lentils from lintels. Oh, that I should be lucky enough to come across foie gras with smoked lentils again.

The lentil is, of course, a grenade of healthy properties: it fairly bursts with protein, carbohydrates, phosphorus, iron and vitamin B. People who eat for health have long understood this: if we eat lentils to stay healthy, healthiness keeps us fit to eat more lentils.

The granddaddy of legumes, it has been cultivated for an estimated 13,000 years. It may have originated in northern Iraq, where carbon dating goes back to 6750 B.C. India claims it as its own but can’t prove it. History’s ancients—Babylonians, Egyptians, Greeks—gobbled it up. Archaeologists found a lentil puree in a 4,000-year-old tomb at Thebes, a little something for the afterlife.

Hippocrates recommended lentils served with slices of boiled dog for liver ailments. At the same time, he shunned them as “rough, creating gluey blood which stops up the liver, creates melancholia, fourth-day shivers and heavy dreams, and dulls the vision and the strength of the brain.” Oh, dear.

Americans have traditionally run from lentils, probably because of their reputation for putting the gas in gastronomy and prompting inadvertent displays of levitation.

Historically, a number of writers, starting with the Roman Catholic Saint Jerome, had detected in this flatulence certain erotic properties. This explains Herodotus’s observation that Egyptian priests sworn to celibacy were forbidden even to look at beans.

India remains the world’s most avid consumer of lentils. In the desert country of Rajasthan, I’ve eaten with dirt-poor villagers who, with a handful of lentils, rice and spices, turned out a lunch to shame anything eaten by the highest-born pukka sahib.

In Mother India’s kitchen, the lentil struts its stuff in a vast range of dishes from rasam, the clear Indian soup, to the famous dhals, those richly spiced stews that accompany almost every meal.

In Canadian cities, Indian markets display heaping bins of lentils. Masoor dhal or peeled red lentils, known as Egyptian lentils in the Middle East, turn yellow during cooking and are the base for most everyday dhals. Chinese or brown lentils turn to mush on the stove. Green Puy lentils grown in France hold their shape and boast a distinct peppery flavour. A star in our kitchen is the sensationally rich dhal makhani made from black lentils and indecent amounts of butter and cream.

The great peasant staple spans the globe. Italians regard it as good-luck fare and serve it with pork sausages and pig trotters—pork and beans with gusto—at New Year’s in Rome. A thick lentil stew seasoned with coriander, garlic and onion ranks as a gastronomic high in the mountains of Yemen. Moroccans turn out a lentil salad spiked with coriander, garlic, oregano and cumin.

Closer to home, Oregon may have its truffle festival, but Pullman, Washington, hosts the National Lentil Festival in late summer. Lentil chili is served free, and events include a lentil cook-off and a lentil pancake breakfast.

In these glum winter months, which come without a single holiday, what do we have to look forward to? Why, Valentine’s Day, a once-lusty pagan festival dressed down in Christian threads. My wife and I will celebrate with duck, a juicy, crispy-skinned confit de canard. And with it, the prized belugas. My wife may turn out a ragout flavoured with garlic and salt pork or lentils braised in wine. I’ll be looking for love either way.

- By Jeremy Ferguson

Cherry Hill Coffee. Photos by Jasmin Dosanj

Add artisan coffee roasters to the list of good things happening in the Okanagan. One of the first, Kelowna’s Cherry Hill Coffee has been hand-roasting coffee beans since 1986, and provides many of the Okanagan’s best independent coffee shops, bakeries and restaurants with their custom roasted-to-order coffee beans.

While coffee aficionados connect the link between the name cherry and coffee, for many it is a surprise to learn that coffee beans are the seeds that come from red or purple cherries that grow on shrubs and small trees in the “coffee belt”. The belt is a narrow subtropical region located between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn.  Unlike mass-marketed coffee roasters, Cherry Hill Coffee sources their exceptional coffee beans from small-scale 100% certified organic farmers. For Cherry Hill, organic farming is better for the farmers, the land and the environment. Organic farming also helps to keep the genetic diversity of coffee beans alive.

Cherry Hill Coffee makes single point of origin coffee as well as custom blends. For their single point of origin coffees, they list the region, co-op/farm, varietal, altitude height and processing method. All of their coffee is roasted by hand in small batches in their custom rebuilt 1960’s Vittoria roaster using the time-honored tradition of sight, sound and smell to determine when the beans are properly roasted. To guarantee the freshest coffee beans possible to their loyal customers they hand-roast all of their coffee beans to order.

If you are in Kelowna, it is worth a visit to their industrial location, housing both their roastery and coffee bar. See and smell the coffee beans being roasted on site while sipping on espresso, latte or cappuccino.  Cherry Hill Coffee also shares their passion for coffee with their Cherry Hill Brew School. Geared towards the general public, students learn single brewing techniques using the Hario, Chemex or Siphon methods, as well as practice the process known as “cupping” –  tasting and evaluating coffee by a distinct appraisal system. Like fine wine, the best coffees offer a balance of aroma, flavor, acidity and body. Classes sell out early, so it’s worthwhile to book in advance.

The care that Cherry Hill Coffee has taken in sourcing their beans and hand-roasting has paid off, with their coffee beans now found in over 500 locations across Alberta and British Columbia.

Cherry Hill Coffee

1404 Hunter Court Unit 1

Kelowna

Website

Coconut water, oil and flour from Planet Organic. Photo by Ellie Shortt

Coconut flour, coconut oil, coconut milk, and now coconut water: everyone, everywhere seems to be going nuts over coconuts. If you too are a fan of this tropical treat, then you’re in luck, because whether in its liquid, solid or powdered form, this illustrious ingredient is a healthier choice than many of its alternatives. Coconut flour is an excellent high-fibre and low carbohydrate alternative to wheat, and has proven to be a great option for gluten free baking. It can be used to make breads, cakes, pies, and other baked goods by using 15 – 25% in place of other flours in standard recipes, or simply use 100% coconut flour for a slightly more dense, but definitely delicious and completely gluten-free dish. Coconut milk is also a great alternative for those with dietary sensitivities when used in place of regular cows milk and other dairy products such as yogurt and ice cream. Coconut oil has also burst onto the scene as a low-cal option for cooking and baking, but in addition to this, can double as a fantastic moisturizer for hair and skin.

The latest contender of the coconut craze is the extremely hydrating coconut water, which is naturally low in carbohydrates and sugars, and 99% fat free. Some are even praising it for its immune system and metabolism boosting properties, as well as its ability to promote weight loss, detoxify and cleanse the digestive tract, facilitate circulation and fight a number of other health issues. In addition, many are claiming coconut water to be the ultimate hangover cure. A local nightclub, Upstairs Cabaret, is selling Cocos Pure coconut water to patrons as a pre-emptive measure to help reduce the effects of many partygoers’ “24 hour flu.” Some other local spots have been riding the coconut train for a while now by integrating coconut-y ingredients in some of their most popular dishes. The Tapa Bar’s grilled kale is a top seller with a coconut milk, cayenne and lemon marinade, giving this dish its creamy and smoky flavour. The Marina Restaurant plans on incorporating coconut flour into some of their well-loved desserts, and of course, many Thai restaurants like Victoria’s Baan Thai and SookJai Thai use coconut milk in a number of their curries.

If you’d like to get your hands on this versatile ingredient, check out the stores below :

Lifestyle Markets, 2950 Douglas Street. (250) 384-3388 www.lifestylemarkets.com

Coconut oil

Coconut water

Coconut flour

Coconut milk

Planet Organic, 3995 Quadra Street. (250) 727-9888 www.planetorganic.ca

Coconut oil

Coconut water

Coconut milk

Coconut flour

Market on Yates, 903 Yates Street, Victoria. (250) 381-6000 www.themarketstores.com

Coconut oil

Coconut water

Coconut milk

Coconut flour

Peppers, 3829 Cadboro Bay Road,,Victoria. (250) 477-6513 www.peppers-foods.com

Coconut oil

Coconut water

Coconut milk

Coconut flour

Thrifty Foods (visit website for nearest location) www.thriftyfoods.com

Coconut oil

Coconut water

Coconut milk

Country Grocer, 4420 West Saanich Road, Victoria. (250) 708-3919 www.countrygrocer.com

“…But just suppose, you had no nose, then you could never smell a Rosé …”
-Dr. Seuss, modified

And that would be a shame, wouldn’t it? Rosés truly combine the best of both worlds in wine. The freshness, acidity and best food-friendliness of white wines, with the structure, berry fruit, tannins and best food-friendliness of red wines. The result, a very food-friendly wine! A key sommelier go-to, when in doubt, select a Rosé  - or Rosado (Sp), or Rosato (It).

Rosés come in various styles – from bone dry and mineral wealthy, to semi- and fully sweet, to sparkling. And any black grape can be used to make a pink one, the final result carrying through the grape’s intrinsic flavours and aromas.

Rosé wines can be made in three basic ways:

Saignée – or bleeding. The winemaker will bleed off a portion of must (unfermented juice) after only a short period of contact with the grape skins (6-48 hours). Because the colour of red wine is derived from pigments in the skins, the juice is only pink, not red. Rosés made this way include Anjou, Clairet and Cotes de Provence.

Direct Pressing – directly pressing freshly harvested black grapes. A measure of colouring compounds are extracted from the skins during this process, and the winemaker uses caution to not extract too much tannin. Rosés made this way include Cotes de Provence and Languedoc.

Blending – Quite rarely seen, and is forbidden by law in France, except for Champagne. Some Rosés are made by blending a small portion of red wine with a white wine.  Rosés made this way include Rosé Champagne and some new world Rosés.

In general, the longer the period of skin contact, the darker and more tannic the wine. To make rosé, the juice is separated from the skins relatively quickly, resulting in the pale color. Colours range from pale copper to hot pink, depending on the length of skin contact as well as the grape variety. Regardless of production or grape or style or provenance, Rosés are wines meant to be enjoyed young. The following are BC wines I’ve tasted recently, newly released and ready to be enjoyed under sunny skies (or for Mother’s Day this weekend).

Clos du Soleil Rosé  2011
Similkameen Valley. $17.90. 12.2%
Cabernet Sauvignon

Could this be my new favourite BC wine I’ve tasted this year? It’s certainly among the top. 15 year old sustainably farmed Cab Sauv vines sourced from Osoyoos have yielded a scant 390 cases of this herbal, stony, savoury beaut. Dry, with sweet raspberry, bright acid and lingering mineral notes.

JoieFarm Rosé 2011
Naramata. $20.90. 12.4%
Gamay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Gris

It’s not spring in my books until I’ve tasted JoieFarm Rosé. Every year the blend shifts, speaking to the season and soils (grapes are harvested from Kelowna, Skaha Bluff, Summerland and Naramata Bench). This year is a pleasant touch off-dry, with desert sage, wild strawberries and structured cherries.

Fort Berens Estate Winery Rosé  2011
Lillooet. $17.99. 12.5%
Pinot Noir

You read that right – Lillooet. And these aren’t trucked in grapes either – these are estate grown, specifically selected and purposefully picked for this wine. Bright pink (48 hours skin contact) and bone dry, with a saturated saline nose, jammy strawberry, candied cherry and herbal-cherry finish.

Okanagan Crush Pad Rosé  NV
Summerland. $52 for 3 L box.  $13.7%
Gamay

The sustainably farmed Secrest Vineyard in Oliver has graced us with this lively dry Rosé with clean and pure notes of orange, savoury cherry and river rock. Serious, sans staidness. PLUS the packaging is perfect for a picnic.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards Oldfield Series 2Bench Rosé  2011
Oliver. $22.99. 12.9%
Cabernet Franc

A fairly new wine to a very established portfolio, this is the 3rd vintage of Tinhorn’s Oldfield Series Rosé. And just as previous years, it is made in limited quantities. 100% Cab Franc from the famed Black Sage Bench, this dry wine shows its parentage with black pepper, alluring bramble and savoury strawberry notes.

De Vine Vineyards Rosé  2011
Saanich Peninsula. $16. 11.2%
Pinot Noir

Only 35 cases, so move quickly because it will. This estate grown Pinot Noir exhibits wild strawberry and spice, earth and summer herbs. Lovely mouthfeel and fresh finish – and spectacular value here.

Quails’ Gate Winery Rosé  2011
Kelowna. $14.99. 13%
Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris

A long-time BC go-to favourite, this classic Rosé overdelivers year after year. Technically dry, but bursting with sweet strawberries, redcurrants, and watermelon.

Tantalus Rosé 2011
Kelowna. $21.99. 13.2%
Pinot Meunier.

I kind of have a geek crush on this wine. I mean – single vineyard sustainably farmed Pinot Meunier vines from 1985? Be still my heart! Bone dry and intense, with layers of wild raspberry, bright rhubarb and stony minerality and a lingering dried cherry finish.

8^th Generation Vineyard Confidence 2011
Summerland. $22.50. 12.5%
Dunkelfelder, Pinot Gris, Syrah

I adore this mid-sweet frizzante wine on the inside and out. Pink grapefruit, candied strawberries, lively bubbles and as refreshing (and fun!) as a summer run through a sprinkler.

Misison Hill Family Estate Five Vineyards Rosé  2011
Kelowna. $14.99. 12%
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

Off-dry and patio-friendly, this is another local favourite that appears as soon as the sunshine does. Sweet strawberry jam, candied cherries and zingy finish, this juicy blend is from vineyards in Oliver, Osoyoos and Naramata.

left: Yellow Coconut Curry Soup with Organic Focaccia. Photos by Deanna Ladret

Looking for some “slow food, fast”? The Soup Peddler, soon to be renamed The Hot and Cold Cafe, is Cook Street Village’s latest eatery specializing in express lunches: soups and hot/cold sandwiches, salads, coffee and pie. Current owner (and previous consulting chef) Cosmo Meens and wife Leah have taken over the business initially founded by Rob Berg and will be transitioning to a new menu this month. The sneak preview is up on the cafe’s wall, and select items are now available for order.

The menu features three regular soups and a daily special, including at least one vegan and two gluten-free soup choices. All soups come with a fresh slice of organic house-made focaccia. Open-faced meatball sandwiches (meat from Cook Street’s Island Meat & Seafood) are served hot and made to order, while three varieties of cold sandwiches are located in a self-serve fridge along with containers of cold soup to go. In addition to their eclectic little lineup of globally-influenced offerings like an Italian Meatball Sandwich, Ireland Farm Free Range BBQ Chicken Salad and Arborio Rice Pudding, the Hot and Cold menu strikes a nice balance between animal and vegetable––there’s plenty here for the meat lover and the vegan alike.

Hours: 11:00am-7:00pm 7 days a week. Cash only.

The Hot and Cold Cafe- Slow Food Fast

313 Cook Street

(778) 433-1007

Phone-in pickup orders are accepted daily when placed before 11am.

Vancouver, BC (May 10, 2012) – Canada’s premier wine show has officially changed its name to Vancouver International Wine Festival. The new name drops “Playhouse” from the title. The change was announced by Randy Kaardal, chair of the festival’s board of directors, at today’s regularly scheduled meeting of participating agents and industry partners. The wine festival was created in 1979 as a fundraiser for the Vancouver Playhouse Theatre Company, and raised $7.8 million over the ensuing 34 years. But in March of this year the theatre company announced that it was ceasing operations. The final production in the 2011/2012 Playhouse season, God of Carnage, ended its run on May 5.

“The festival plays an important role in the culture of the city,” said Kaardal in making the announcement. “We will honour our commitment to the 25,000 wine lovers who make our festival such a success, and to the many people in the local and international wine and hospitality community who help make the festival possible. The festival is an important ingredient in Vancouver’s thriving food and hospitality industry, generating millions of dollars in economic impact through accommodation, restaurant and catering expenditures and wine sales – to say nothing of year-round jobs. We look forward to producing a very successful 2013 Vancouver International Wine Festival.”

The festival’s board of directors expects to make and announce a decision in July about future fundraising initiatives. At present, the festival is constitutionally bound as a fundraiser for the Vancouver Playhouse Theatre Company, and changing the designated charity requires a change of constitutional purpose and bylaws.

The festival will transition to its new identity in the coming months. The new URL is www.vanwinefest.ca and staff email addresses will change.

2013 HIGHLIGHTS AND KEY DATES

The 2013 festival plans to once again be headquartered at the Vancouver Convention Centre and at top restaurants and hotels throughout the city.

35th annual Vancouver International Wine Festival

February 25 to March 3, 2013

Projected: 1,700 wines from 180 wineries representing 15 countries

The theme region is California (the theme region or country has more wines, wineries and themed events than any other participating country)

The global focus is on Chardonnay

Winery applications for the 2013 festival open May 15 and close on June 15. Check the Exhibitors section of www.playhousewinefest.com for details

Advance tickets to selected events go on sale November 1 and all public tickets will go on sale January 8

Wine List Award entries open November 1 and close January 15

Trade Days Conference tickets go on sale January 22

ABOUT THE VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL

The Vancouver International Wine Festival, Canada’s premier wine show, will run from February 25to March 3, 2013. VanWineFest is one of the biggest and oldest wine festival events in the world. It features some 1,700 wines from 180 wineries representing 15 countries. Each year, the spotlight shines on one country or region and that region has more wineries, wines and themed events than any other. In 2013, the theme region is California. There also is an annual varietal or global focus, and for 2013 that varietal is Chardonnay. The festival features a week of special events including the Bacchanalia Gala Dinner + Auction, as well as wine seminars, wine minglers, winery dinners, and lunches and brunches at fine restaurants and hotels. The Vancouver International Wine Festival has three mandates: provide an informative, educational and entertaining wine experience for public and trade; be a premier marketing opportunity for the wine industry and festival partners; and raise funds for a designated charity. Since its inception in 1979, the festival raised $7.8 million for the Vancouver Playhouse Theatre Company. The theatre company announced in March 2012 that it was ceasing operations. The festival will announce a new designated charity in summer 2012.

left: Thierry macarons. right: Bel Cafe macarons. Photos by Anya Levykh

It’s such a simple little sweet that it’s easy to take it for granted. Like street food, it’s a relatively new addition to the Vancouver food scene, although a long-standing classic in its country of origin, France.

Macarons are made by combining almond flour, icing sugar, granulated sugar and egg whites to create a “cookie” with a smooth, domed top and ruffled edge. Two cookies are then used to create a sandwich, held together by a filling of jam, ganache or buttercream. The whole thing should melt slightly in the mouth, while having a slight crunch to the outer shell, like a meringue.

Ladurée of Paris has been making macarons since the 19th century, and is considered the gold standard, but there’s no need to waste carbon emissions in order to try some quality confections. Here are five of the best places in Vancouver for macarons.

Thierry

Thierry Busset has long been turning out sweet delights for restaurants like Cin Cin and West, and Gordon Ramsay has called him “one of the finest pastry chefs in the world.” At his Alberni Street patisserie/café, you can find ginger tuiles, chocolate eclairs, fresh croissants, and, yes, macarons. Classic flavours like ginaduja and vanilla are complemented by more unique offerings, like the pink praline, lychee and lime. Don’t miss the chocolate-pistachio.

1059 Alberni St. | 604.608.6870 | www.thierrychocolates.com

Bel Café

The little sister to Hawksworth Restaurant, Bel Café boasts one of Vancouver’s most notable pastry chefs, Wayne Kozinko. While the café doesn’t specialize in macarons, the stunning quality and unique flavours are worth a visit. Try the black sesame-yuzu or the rose-raspberry version for a walk on the wild side, or the maple and bacon version for a salty-sweet hit. In celebration of Oreo’s 100th anniversary, they even have a cookies and cream version.

801 West Georgia St. | 604.673.7000 | www.belcafe.com

Soirette Macarons & Tea

This little jewel-box of a bakery recently arrived on Pender Street and is obviously a labour of love for owner Shobna Kannusamy. The macarons are made from fresh, seasonal ingredients, matched with lovely teas, and custom flavours are available. Try the white truffle with pink Himalayan salt, or the lemongrass cilantro. There’s even a matcha version to go with the corresponding tea.

1433 West Pender St. | 604.558.3308 | www.soirette.com

Thomas Haas

No list would be complete without this famous pâtissier and his heavenly creations. Flavours like kalamansi, champagne and cassis are balanced by classics like chocolate, raspberry and coffee. Plus, you can indulge in a cup of the famous hot chocolate to go with your afternoon treat on the sidewalk patio.

2539 West Broadway | 604.924.1847 | www.thomashaas.com

Kitchening with Carly

What started as a small home-based business has grown into a popular item that is sold at farmers’ markets and local specialty stores, as well as online. Carly Wintschel is a passionate and talented baker who specializes in the little French cookie that could. Her seasonal flavours are crafted from all-natural ingredients and are as varied as they are tasty. Raspberry-passionfruit and espresso with vanilla butter cream are some of the current picks, and macarons are occasionally drizzled with a little extra flavour, like the popular natural almond with rosemary salted caramel and vanilla cream.

See website for locations | 604.761.5571 | www.kitcheningwithcarly.com

Chef Bernard Casavant. Photo by Jasmin Dosanj

When Bernard Casavant joined the culinary world, Canada’s fine-dining establishments were dominated exclusively by European chefs and cuisine. Local and fresh were seen as expensive fads and fine-dining Canadian cuisine? Today, he is recognized as one of the pioneer chefs who received their culinary education and training in Canada, challenged the European-only executive chef status quo, and helped achieve a  Canadian culinary identity grounded in dishes inspired by local and regional produce.

His greatest culinary influence was his beloved grandmother, Nellie Watts, who as a child taught him to cook, clean, and set the table. Her welcoming philosophy of there is always room at the table, just pull up another chair has been a life-long mantra for Casavant.

After the realization that a professional soccer career was unlikely, he chose cooking as his career path and graduated in 1976 from the Culinary Arts Program at Malaspina College with the distinction of “most outstanding student’. He was the first West Coast Canadian trained chef to achieve a chef title at an international hotel fine-dining restaurant, and in 1986 attained the Canadian Certified Chef de Cuisine Certification, the highest possible level for Canadian culinary excellence. Chosen as the executive chef for the Canadian Club for Expo’86,  he dazzled foreign dignitaries and celebrities including Princess Diana, Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, and George Burns with his innovative use of local and regional dishes (revolutionary at the time). In 1991, Chef Bernard had the honor of representing Canada in France’s Bocuse d’Or competition, one of the world’s most serious culinary competitions.

Starting in 1989, Casavant helped make Whistler a true culinary destination, first as the executive chef for the newly built Chateau Whistler and later his own restaurant Chef Bernard’s Bistro. A champion of the local food movement, he opened the doors for local produce especially from the Pemberton Valley, created Whistler’s first farmers market, and was a founding member of Farm Folk/City Folk.

The perfection in every bite of a fateful pear plucked from a tree while on vacation in the Okanagan with his wife Bonnie and good friends Rod Butters and Audrey Surrao led to his moving to the Okanagan instead of retirement. First as executive chef at Burrowing Owl’s Sonora Room in Oliver and since 2009 at the Wild Apple Restaurant and Lounge in Kelowna. The arrival of chef Bernard Casavant signaled the change in the Okanagan from “peaches and beaches” to a true wine and culinary destination.

Amongst all the awards and achievements, Casavant’s true greatness can be seen in the love for both his family and extended culinary family. His influence and mentorship to a younger generation of Canadian chefs cannot be measured. It is a love of the profession and mentoring to a third generation of Canadian chefs that keeps Casavant forever young and in the kitchen. Wild Apple Restaurant and Lounge is a must when in the Okanagan for both wine-inspired cuisine and the opportunity to eat the influence of a Canadian legend.

Bernard Casavant helped change the Okanagan from “peaches and beaches” to a true wine and culinary destination. Known in the culinary world, as Chef Bernard, some of the chefs he has mentored and inspired include Michael Noble, Chris Mills, Brody White, Andrew Springet, Jeffrey Jordan, Rachael Kompass, Michael Kompass, Lee Cooper, Trevor Jackson, Tim May, Ray Henry, Greg Hook, Peter Zambri, John Clark, Mel O’Brien. And currently in the Okanagan Chris VanHooydonk (Burrowing Owl),  Jeff Van Geest (Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek) Rob Cordonier and Brent Pillon (Hillside Bistro), Jenna Angle (Local Lounge) Rod Butters (RauDZ),  Geoffry Couper (Okanagan College of Arts), Robyn Sigurdson and all of the chefs currently at Wild Apple Restaurant.

left: The edible centerpiece. right: flowers. Photos by Deanna Ladret

Nobody needs an official day to give Mom some love. But let’s be honest, we’ve all taken her for granted at one point or another. Now that I’m a parent myself, I’ve been extra stringent with my annual observation. In part because I’m now beginning to understand the scope of the job, and also possibly because a small part of me hopes my daughter will care more than I did in the teenage years. Most folks would agree that a handmade card or a homemade meal are just as special––if not more so––than a gift bought at the store. I remember making pancakes with my dad and my brother, and presenting them to my mom on a plate festooned with sliced fruit. I have the photo to prove it (maybe that’s what inspired me to become a waitress…thanks mom!)

Since Mother’s Day always happens on a Sunday, brunch seems like the natural celebratory meal. Breakfast in bed is a particularly nice treat for Mom, since she is often de facto breakfast maker. If you’ve flown the nest or breakfast-in-bed isn’t practical, a brunch invite where you do the cooking is the next best choice. Yotam Ottolenghi’s cookbook Plenty is my current go-to tome.

I took my Plenty obsession one step farther by creating a Mother’s Day Brunch Table Centrepiece using ingredients from an appetizer recipe in the cookbook. Assemble this easy centrepiece and garnish with mini spray roses (don’t eat the roses) to complete your Mother’s Day brunch table. Then, treat mom to a pre-dinner appy later on with the contents. Hint – she doesn’t have to know you recycled the breakfast décor.

1) Gather the ingredients from Ottolenghi’s recipe below for Asparagus, Fennel and Beets with Verjus from his Plenty cookbook. From them, take the bunch of asparagus, the fennel (buy a whole bulb though you only need half for the recipe), one beet and set aside. While you’re at the grocery store, buy a bunch of spray roses.

2) Find two rectangular glass vases and fill 1/4-1/3 full with water.

3) Using a fine grater or microplane, zest a small amount of beet flesh (no need to peel the beets first) and stir into the water to give it a pink hue. Add more to your liking.

4) Slice the fennel bulb in half lengthwise, making sure there’s a fairly equal amount of stalk on either piece. Place the half bulbs deep into the vases so the cut side faces out.

5) Cut the ends off the asparagus (you’ll need to do this anyway for the recipe) and divide the quantity in half. Place the stalks in the vases amongst the fennel bulb so they are poking out of the top at various heights.

6) Trim the spray roses to various lengths and insert into the vases to finish the look.

7) After brunch, take the arrangements apart and refrigerate the vegetables for later. Consolidate the spray roses into a posy or two for the dinner table with some trimmed fennel stalks. Enjoy!

Asparagus, fennel and beets with verjus

Yotam Ottolenghi, Plenty

Serves 4 as a starter

4 mini beets (about 1/4 lb)

1 1/3 cups verjus

4 T grapeseed oil

salt & black pepper

4 to 5 oz fresh pencil-thin or normal asparagus

1/2 large fennel bulb, halved vertically

1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted

1 T dill leaves to garnish

Preheat the oven to 400 F. Trim most of the stalk from the beets, leaving a little at the top of each beet for the look. Put them into an ovenproof dish, cover it with foil and bake for about 45 minutes, or until the beets are cooked through. Remove from the oven and leave to cool down before cutting into halves or quarters (you may want to peel them if the skin is tough).

Pour the verjus into a small saucepan, bring to a light simmer and leave it to reduce to about 3 tablespoons. Transfer to a mixing bowl and allow to cool down, then whisk in the grapeseed oil and salt and pepper to taste. Put aside.

Cut the asparagus spears on a sharp angle into long and very thin slices, or use a potato peeler to make “shavings”. Place the fennel half cut-side down on a mandolin and shave into paper-thin slices. The slices will have a hand shape.

To assemble, arrange the vegetables on small serving plates. Scatter the pine nuts on top and drizzle over the dressing. Garnish with dill and serve.

At the Duncan market. Photos c/o Salish Sea Salt

Born of a dream to live a sustainable life and contribute positively to her local economy, Jessical Abel has created a local BC artisan business worth its salt. Salish Sea Salt founder Abel and her partner harvest seawater by small boat from the Salish Sea and convert it into beautiful artisan culinary and bath salts.

Just how does one “make” salt?

It all starts with a day on the water collecting small batches of seawater. After the heavy lifting is through, the water is transferred into large pots to boil for a few days over propane burners. When the water is evaporated, the salty brine is infused with local herbs and ingredients. As the the briny water turns into salt crystals it is then roasted to remove excess moisture and add a soft roasted flavour.  Finally, the finished salt is packaged in reusable tins and is ready to season your next dish.

Why choose local salt?

Beyond the good feelings that local markets and sustainable products evoke, local artisan sea salt may actually be healthier for you.  “Healthy bodies need salt,” says Abel. “Just think back to Biology 12.”  Unrefined sea salt in moderation does not have the same effect on blood pressure as convention table salt. Sea salt may also benefit the skin due to its natural antiseptic properties.

But it goes further than biology.  Conventional table salt is heavily refined and this process results in the loss of health promoting micronutrients. Additionally, additives like iodine and anti-caking agents are included leaving the end product less pure, and – most concerning to foodies – less flavourful.

While you can easily replace your table salt with pure sea salt, Salish Sea Salts provides several infusions like: rosemary infused sea salt, chili garlic infused seas salts, smash peppercorn sea salts and new line of smoked sea salts.

Watch for Salish Sea Salts as your local farmers market this Spring or check out www.salishseasalts.ca

By Candice Suchocki Weir

Foe recipes using Salish Sea Salts check out the recipe section on their website