“…But just suppose, you had no nose, then you could never smell a Rosé …”
-Dr. Seuss, modified

And that would be a shame, wouldn’t it? Rosés truly combine the best of both worlds in wine. The freshness, acidity and best food-friendliness of white wines, with the structure, berry fruit, tannins and best food-friendliness of red wines. The result, a very food-friendly wine! A key sommelier go-to, when in doubt, select a Rosé  - or Rosado (Sp), or Rosato (It).

Rosés come in various styles – from bone dry and mineral wealthy, to semi- and fully sweet, to sparkling. And any black grape can be used to make a pink one, the final result carrying through the grape’s intrinsic flavours and aromas.

Rosé wines can be made in three basic ways:

Saignée – or bleeding. The winemaker will bleed off a portion of must (unfermented juice) after only a short period of contact with the grape skins (6-48 hours). Because the colour of red wine is derived from pigments in the skins, the juice is only pink, not red. Rosés made this way include Anjou, Clairet and Cotes de Provence.

Direct Pressing – directly pressing freshly harvested black grapes. A measure of colouring compounds are extracted from the skins during this process, and the winemaker uses caution to not extract too much tannin. Rosés made this way include Cotes de Provence and Languedoc.

Blending – Quite rarely seen, and is forbidden by law in France, except for Champagne. Some Rosés are made by blending a small portion of red wine with a white wine.  Rosés made this way include Rosé Champagne and some new world Rosés.

In general, the longer the period of skin contact, the darker and more tannic the wine. To make rosé, the juice is separated from the skins relatively quickly, resulting in the pale color. Colours range from pale copper to hot pink, depending on the length of skin contact as well as the grape variety. Regardless of production or grape or style or provenance, Rosés are wines meant to be enjoyed young. The following are BC wines I’ve tasted recently, newly released and ready to be enjoyed under sunny skies (or for Mother’s Day this weekend).

Clos du Soleil Rosé  2011
Similkameen Valley. $17.90. 12.2%
Cabernet Sauvignon

Could this be my new favourite BC wine I’ve tasted this year? It’s certainly among the top. 15 year old sustainably farmed Cab Sauv vines sourced from Osoyoos have yielded a scant 390 cases of this herbal, stony, savoury beaut. Dry, with sweet raspberry, bright acid and lingering mineral notes.

JoieFarm Rosé 2011
Naramata. $20.90. 12.4%
Gamay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Gris

It’s not spring in my books until I’ve tasted JoieFarm Rosé. Every year the blend shifts, speaking to the season and soils (grapes are harvested from Kelowna, Skaha Bluff, Summerland and Naramata Bench). This year is a pleasant touch off-dry, with desert sage, wild strawberries and structured cherries.

Fort Berens Estate Winery Rosé  2011
Lillooet. $17.99. 12.5%
Pinot Noir

You read that right – Lillooet. And these aren’t trucked in grapes either – these are estate grown, specifically selected and purposefully picked for this wine. Bright pink (48 hours skin contact) and bone dry, with a saturated saline nose, jammy strawberry, candied cherry and herbal-cherry finish.

Okanagan Crush Pad Rosé  NV
Summerland. $52 for 3 L box.  $13.7%
Gamay

The sustainably farmed Secrest Vineyard in Oliver has graced us with this lively dry Rosé with clean and pure notes of orange, savoury cherry and river rock. Serious, sans staidness. PLUS the packaging is perfect for a picnic.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards Oldfield Series 2Bench Rosé  2011
Oliver. $22.99. 12.9%
Cabernet Franc

A fairly new wine to a very established portfolio, this is the 3rd vintage of Tinhorn’s Oldfield Series Rosé. And just as previous years, it is made in limited quantities. 100% Cab Franc from the famed Black Sage Bench, this dry wine shows its parentage with black pepper, alluring bramble and savoury strawberry notes.

De Vine Vineyards Rosé  2011
Saanich Peninsula. $16. 11.2%
Pinot Noir

Only 35 cases, so move quickly because it will. This estate grown Pinot Noir exhibits wild strawberry and spice, earth and summer herbs. Lovely mouthfeel and fresh finish – and spectacular value here.

Quails’ Gate Winery Rosé  2011
Kelowna. $14.99. 13%
Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris

A long-time BC go-to favourite, this classic Rosé overdelivers year after year. Technically dry, but bursting with sweet strawberries, redcurrants, and watermelon.

Tantalus Rosé 2011
Kelowna. $21.99. 13.2%
Pinot Meunier.

I kind of have a geek crush on this wine. I mean – single vineyard sustainably farmed Pinot Meunier vines from 1985? Be still my heart! Bone dry and intense, with layers of wild raspberry, bright rhubarb and stony minerality and a lingering dried cherry finish.

8^th Generation Vineyard Confidence 2011
Summerland. $22.50. 12.5%
Dunkelfelder, Pinot Gris, Syrah

I adore this mid-sweet frizzante wine on the inside and out. Pink grapefruit, candied strawberries, lively bubbles and as refreshing (and fun!) as a summer run through a sprinkler.

Misison Hill Family Estate Five Vineyards Rosé  2011
Kelowna. $14.99. 12%
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

Off-dry and patio-friendly, this is another local favourite that appears as soon as the sunshine does. Sweet strawberry jam, candied cherries and zingy finish, this juicy blend is from vineyards in Oliver, Osoyoos and Naramata.

World Cocktail Week is upon us again from May 6-13. World Cocktail Week is a week long fundraiser for the Museum of the American Cocktail in New Orleans. The event was established to promote better understanding and appreciation of the art of the cocktail and its history, and responsible drinking. The date commemorates the first definition of the term Cocktail in print in the 1806 edition of The Balance and Columbian Repository. The WCW fundraiser also raises much needed revenue to help pay for museum operating costs throughout the year and for our mixology series.

Clive’s will be participating in their second WCW with the feature cocktails running all week. Here is a sneak peek at the creations – both new and old.

WHITE LADY
(1920′s, Harry MacElhone – Paris)

1 1/2 oz Beefeater 24
3/4 oz Cointreau
3/4 oz fresh lemon juice
dash of sugar syrup
one peel of orange

Shake and double strain into a large coupette. Garnish with an orange twist

MG COCKTAIL #1
(2012, Shawn Soole, Victoria)

2 oz Beefeater 24
1/2oz Punt e Mes
Dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters

Stir and strain into a small coupette. Garnish with an orange twist

FAUX POMME – see here for Treve’s profile of this cocktail and its creator

from left: Jake Skakun, Mireille Sauvé, Josh Clark

DRINK editor Treve Ring asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours. This month’s challenge is to pair a pair of pizzas: Red & White.

RED: Calabrese salame, tomato, mozzarella, red onion, black olives, anchovies

WHITE: porcini béchamel cream, roasted mushrooms, roasted onions, fresh thyme, fontina, pecorino cheeses

Our Experts:

Josh Clark (JC)
Sommelier, Il Terrazzo Ristorante/Winemonkey.ca

Josh is a Certified Sommelier with over 20 years in the restaurant business. He has worked in Whistler, Vancouver and Victoria and also two years in London, England as Sommelier at Jamie Oliver’s restaurant, Fifteen. By night he’s at Il Terrazzo Ristorante in Victoria working with the largest wine list on Vancouver Island. By day you can find him online at winemonkey.ca, having “serious fun with wine.”

Jake Skakun (JS)
Sommelier, L’Abattoir

Jake Skakun is a writer and wine professional based in Vancouver; most days, you can find him on the floor at the Gastown installation L’Abattoir where he oversees the wine program. He’s been educated about wine from the ISG, WSET and UC Davis. With a couple more trips in the works, he has had a chance to tour many of the picturesque wine regions of France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, the US and more locally, British Columbia. He blogs from time-to-time on the website Cherries and Clay.

Mireille Sauvé (MS)
Sommelier, The Wine Umbrella

Mireille started her wine career as ‘Canada’s Youngest Female Sommelier’ in 1997.  With multiple gold medals for restaurant wine programs under her belt, Ms. Sauvé founded The Wine Umbrella in 2005, aiming to raise the bar of wine appreciation among Canadians. She has worked closely with Wine Australia, Wines of France, Wines of Germany, Wines from Spain and Wines of Portugal, implementing modern initiatives to familiarize locals with their wines to great success. Mireille is also a freelance wine writer and Wine Editor of Flavours Magazine.

What to DRINK with:

RED Pizza: Calabrese salame, tomato, mozzarella, red onion, black olives, anchovies 

JC – I like this dish because it can be paired a few different ways. The biggest deciding factor in this dish is the saltiness, coming from three main ingredients: the Calabrese, the olives and the anchovies. The easy solution to salt is acidity. Sure – you could do a white or sparkling wine, but I would drink red with good natural acidity and not too much body. You want to complement the dish without overpowering it.  The Barbera grape from Piedmont in northern Italy would work well.  Not only will it work with the saltiness of the big three, it will also complement the tomato component. Get a little crazy and stick the bottle in the fridge for 15 minutes before serving.  The slight chill will soften the alcohol, lift the acidity and make for a refreshing pairing.  For the true Italian experience, ditch the big wine glasses and drink your chilled Barbera out of a tumbler.

JS – So often sommeliers have cast that demeaning label of ‘a nice little pizza wine’ at so many cheap and cheerful bottles. It’s a pleasure to suggest a pizza wine in a real pizza eating scenario. This one calls for something spicy, high acid (tomatoes), and earthy and I will venture onto a limb and choose a red from Italy. However, the red I’m thinking of is a little off-the-beaten-track: coming from the southeast corner of Sicily and an area called Vittoria. Here you find Nero d’Avola and Frappato; both tend to make wines that are lighter, fresher and prettier than you expect to come from this part of the world. A straight Frappato would be perfect – a Cru Beaujolais of Southern Italy – bright and fruity, with spice and an obvious Italian herbaceous character.

MS – Mmmm… That’s my kind of pizza! I’ll go with one of the following three: Valpolicella (Italy – Superiore and/or Classico if you can get it), Bierzo (some lovely Spanish Bierzos out there – total bang for your buck!) or Sangiovese (New World – Loving Howard Soon’s Sandhill Small Lots version: xo).  Look for a rustic flavour to the wine to enhance the salame / black olive components. At the same time, we don’t want anything too tannic or full flavoured as either would overpower the flavours and the weight of the pizza. Hence, I suggest old world wines or varietals with lighter bodies and moderate acidity.

WHITE: porcini béchamel cream, roasted mushrooms, roasted onions, fresh thyme, fontina, pecorino cheeses

JC - With this dish I am immediately drawn to the mushrooms and the cream.  You need a wine that can stand up to the meatiness of the porcini but also compliment the creaminess of the sauce. I’ve been doing this pairing for a number of years and my choice has always been white Burgundy. The malolactic fermentation that the Chardonnay undergoes adds the necessary creaminess to the wine. The carefully balanced use of oak adds the weight and structure needed to compliment the mushrooms. Being a cooler climate, white Burgundy also tends to have good acidity which helps cut through the richness of the cream sauce.  Check out some great wines from appellations like Saint-Véran, Rully or Pouilly-Fuissé.

JS - Many interesting whites come from the volcanic hills of Campania – the province of Naples and the home of Napoli-style pizza. It’s also home to whites from grapes like Falanghina, Greco and Fiano. This pizza obviously cries for a wine that has a creamy texture (bechemel) is earthy (mushrooms) and has some mineral characters to play off the cheeses. I’d be intrigued to try a slice with a rich and floral styled Fiano di Avellino.

MS –  My top three wine pairings for this one are white Rhône (inexpensive version like Louis Bernard or Ogier from France), cool climate Chardonnay (look to BC or Niagara for these) and “Bordeaux Abordables” or ‘affordable Bordeaux’ (moderately priced white Bordeaux ranging from $10 to $20 a bottle). Drawing mushroom-type flavours out of dishes is a wine’s most honourable mission. As such, we look to wines that feature mineral flavours with dry overtones, all the while complementing the food’s herbaceous flavours. Additionally, the pizza’s creaminess from both the sauce and the cheese demands a stern level of austerity, present in all of these wines.

vineyard view down to the lake from Summerland's Okanagan Crush Pad

Some people recognize spring by budding flowers, baby goats or society’s shift from sweaters to shorts. My cue, however, is the flood of local wine releases. Bright whites and alluring roses are hitting the shelves and overflowing my glass, and near daily portfolio tastings are filling my tasting logbook twice over. It’s an abundant of riches, when the majority of whites and roses from the previous vintage are bottled and released (the reds, generally needing more time in barrel or tank, are held back until the fall or following year). I’ve been very impressed by the BC 2011 vintage so far, and more so with the winemakers and vineyard managers who made the most out of a challenging year.

The cool spring and late start to the summer warmth pushed the start date of harvest back almost 2 weeks. After one of the coolest and wettest summers on record, the 2011 BC grape harvest began last September 15 in the southern Okanagan, after a grace-saving three weeks of warm weather at the end of August/early September. The northern Okanagan and Similkameen didn’t even start harvesting until early October. The waiting game can be nerve-wracking, but it seems to have paid off in the glass, and while there may be less juice, the quality is high. The released whites and roses that I’ve tasted have a pure, focused and linear nature, and the red barrel samples appear the same. According to winemaking veteran, Tinhorn Creek Winery’s Sandra Oldfield, the reds achieved phenolic ripeness in advance of sugar ripeness (Brix). As grape sugars translate into alcohol, lower Brix means that the alcohol is kept moderate, while the grape’s flavours (phenolics) are developed and complete. Fortunately for us, lower alcohol wines are where the market is driving, and BC’s 2011 was perfect for it.

Here are a few tastes from the 2011 vintage around BC:

Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery Gewurztraminer 2011, Creston. $17.99. 12.5%

Delicate floral perfume, rosewater and subtle spice. Touch off-dry, mellow mouthfeel, low, soft acid.

Fort Berens Estate Winery Riesling 2011, Lillooet. $17.99. 13.6%

Intense flinty spice, anise and herbal nose, with lychee, lime flavours and green apple finish.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2Bench White 2011, Oliver. $22.99. 12.5%

Well-knit and co-fermented blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Semillon, Muscat. Lovely pear perfume and complete mouthfeel, with sage herbal and peach skin finish.

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate Sunrock Vineyard Shiraz 2011, Osoyoos. $35. 13.5%

Though just a barrel sample, the freshness of this BC staple wine impressed. Bramble spice, sweet cassis, medicinal warmth, black pepper and clove.

Sandhill Hidden Terrace Pinot Gris, 2011, Oliver. $18.99. 13.5%

This is the inaugural release from this brand new vineyard for Sandhill, up on McIntyre Bluff 330 feet above the Okanagan River. Hidden Terrace Vineyard has just 3 year old vines, but expresses melon, apple, pineapple and pear  notes, with a mineral herbal finish and vibrant aced.

Mission Hill Family Estate Winery Five Vineyards Rose 2011, $14.99. 12%

Off dry with sweet strawberry jam, bright candied cherry-berry acidity and a zingy finish.

CedarCreek Estate Winery Riesling 2011, Kelowna. $17.90. 10.8%

Very impressive showing from CedarCreek’s new-ish winemaker Darryl Brooker. Picking on flavour, not numbers, this wine resulted with 10.8% alcohol, 12.2 grams of acid per litre and 18.45 grams of residual sugar. A very cool and long fermentation (61 days!) resulted in a very concentrated Riesling with perfumed gooseberry, grapefruit and racy lime sherbet notes, with a complete and balanced mouthfeel and very long finish.

Over the coming days and weeks I will be sharing more of my favourite BC releases in DRINK. You can taste many of these new releases yourself at some of these upcoming events:

Naramata Bench Spring Wine Release Event: April 24

21 Naramata Bench Wineries are heading to Metro Vancouver for their Annual Spring Wine Release Event on Tuesday, April 24, 6:30 to 9:00 PM, at the River Market in the heart of New Westminster. Guests will experience the year’s first wine releases paired with delicacies from restaurants from Metro Vancouver including the Hamilton Street Grill and Hart House Restaurant, and Naramata’s own Hillside Bistro. The Naramata Bench Wineries are known for presenting their wines in fun and dynamic ways and this year’s Spring Release is no exception. www.naramatabench.com

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Uncork Your Palate 2012: Victoria Conservatory of Music: April 26

The Victoria Conservatory of Music and the Naramata Bench Wineries invite you to Uncork your Palate: an evening of wine, food, and music at Victoria’s historic Crystal Garden. Winemakers will be on hand with new spring release wines, paired with treats from some of Victoria’s finest eateries – and accompanied by some of Victoria’s best young musicians. Tickets are $95 per person and can be purchased by calling 1-866-386-5311, and at the Victoria Conservatory of Music. www.naramatabench.com

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BC VQA Spring Release at BC Liquor Stores

This May over 20 BC Liquor Signature Stores will feature four new BC VQA wines each month, as limited time offerings. To augment the BC VQA Spring release tastings, Wines of British Columbia have partnered with Edible Canada to bring a truly local tasting experience at the flagship BC Liquor Store located at 39th and Cambie St. From 4:00 PM – 7:00 PM on Friday, May 25, Sommelier Kurtis Kolt will be on hand to take you through the featured wines and parings.

Similar events are taking place throughout BC:

BC Liquor Store – Orchard Park, Kelowna May 12, 2:30 PM – 5:30 PM

BC Liquor Store – Fort Street, Victoria May 19, 2:30 PM – 5:30 PM

BC Liquor Store – Park Royal, West Vancouver May 26, 2:30 PM – 5:30 PM

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Spring Okanagan Wine Festival: May 3 to 13

With 6 signature events and more than 100 events held over ten days, the Spring Okanagan Wine Festival kicks off May 3rd with the Best of the Best Spring Wine Awards Reception. From a “Gone With The Wine” murder mystery (See Ya Later Ranch) to the ever-popular “Bacchanalia” celebrating all things food and wine, this year’s Festival promises to add a little Spring to your step. More information – including the event calendar and how to purchase tickets – can be found at the Okanagan Wine Festivals website. www.thewinefestivals.com. 

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Find out more about vintage 2011 on Wines of BC website – www.bcwine.com.

So what’s Switchel?

Switchel originated in the Caribbean using a base of ginger, molasses, apple cider vinegar, sugar & water. This refreshing drink was very popular in the American Colonies during the 17th Century.

Clive’s is putting Switchel on tap in May for their early Summer menu as it’s a great addition to cocktails and mixing. You can make your own at home with the recipe below, and play around with it in cocktails, like The Old Switcheroo.

THE OLD SWITCHEROO

1 oz Bulleit Bourbon
1 oz Calvados
1/2 oz Maraschino
Dashes of Extinct Chemical Co. Acid Phosphate
Top with Switchel

Build over ice and stir. Garnish with a mint sprig and a orange wheel.

SWITCHEL

1 quart water
½ cup (125mL) of Apple cider vinegar
1 ½ cups (375mL) sugar
2 3/4oz (82.5mL) light/fancy molasses
2oz freshly grated ginger

Combine 1 quart of water, the vinegar, sugar, molasses and giner and simmer, uncovered. Remove from heat, cover, and allow to cool for 30 mins. Pour slowly in a glass jug containing 2 ½ quarts of water. Top off with water to make a gallon.

Tuesday, April 17 2012 is the date for this year’s Malbec World Day, an international celebration of Argentina’s iconic red wine. Wine lovers are invited to join us at FREE tastings hosted by local wine retailers in the days leading up to the event, and on Malbec World Day itself. More than 40 countries around the globe will host events for the 2012 Malbec World Day.

Each of the upcoming Malbec World Day events will feature at least 6 Argentinean Malbecs. Events will be held at the following locations:

Saturday, April 14

• Marquis Wine Cellars Downtown Vancouver – @MarquisWineCell
• Everything Wine – North Vancouver, Langford & Surrey @EwineNV @EWineVictoria @EWineMx
• Liberty Wine Merchants Point Grey & Commercial Drive @LibertyMerchant

Sunday, April 15

• Legacy Liquor Store Olympic Village, Vancouver @LegacyLiquor
• John B. Liquor Store, Coquitlam @JohnBPub

Tuesday, April 17

• BCLDB Signature Store at 39th & Cambie, Vancouver @BCLiquorStores

In Victoria, there is a consumer tasting at The Union Club on April 17 from 6:30-8:30pm. There will be 30 wineries, live music and food for guests. Tickets are $29 and are available by calling The Union Club.

The Union Club
805 Gordon Street Victoria
(250) 384-1151

Malbec World Day
Tuesday, April 17 2012
#MyMalbecWorldDay
@ArgentinaWineCA

# # #

About Malbec World Day: An initiative of the Wines of Argentina consortium of producers, Malbec World Day is dedicated to establishing Argentinean Malbec as the indisputable benchmark of the varietal around the world. Special activities, wine tastings, and celebrations are organized in many countries to honour the iconic Argentinean grape. The success of the first Malbec World Day in 2011 has inspired Wines of Argentina to make the event an annual occurrence.

www.winesofargentina.org

Where was THIS when I was in wine school? Good thing wine studies last a lifetime, art is cathartic and understanding maps satisfy the soul. The Wine Lover’s Coloring Book is a new study guide for the young at heart, and an exercise in staying within the lines for the young. A dream seen through to the colourful end, the book was created and self published by Louise Wilson, a sommelier who is a familiar name to many in the local wine industry. Though she has now relocated to Ontario’s Niagara region, Wilson befriended many in Victoria during her stint at Hillside Liquor Store, her wine diploma studies with ISG and WSET, her work as a sales rep for Andrew Peller and her role as a wine educator. She is now a Master of Wine candidate, and  I caught up with her in between her very busy travel as International Sales Manager for Peller.

EAT – The Wine Lover’s Coloring Book is obviously a labour of love and a long time in the making. Tell me about your inspiration for the book.

Well the idea came to me when I was studying (with you!) for the ISG diploma exam. I really wanted to make a study guide that would bring things down to the basics, thinking that you can always build from there. Plus I wanted to create something that would be fun and approachable, disarming even (sometimes learning about wine can be kind of intimidating). So once it was done I thought, yes, it is a good study tool, but I think it also makes a fun gift for the wine lover who has (almost) everything.

EAT – How long did this project take from start to finish?

Well I thought about it for 4 years then I got to work and it took me 2 years to finish.

EAT – Did you do any market research prior to starting the book?

I looked and looked for something like it and I still have never seen anything. I didn’t do any other market research. I guess I just thought I would like it so maybe other people would too.

EAT – At first glance the book appears to be aimed towards children – it IS a colouring book. But the region notes are very detailed with appellation law and varietal information. Who do you see your book aimed towards?

The world is filled with people who love wine as much as I do. It’s for all of us. The coloring book started as a way to really make learning about wine fun and easy, as a guide for students. That is why it has so much detailed information, but now that it is finished, I think it makes a great gift too.

EAT – How do you recommend wine students use the book in their studies?

I would recommend reading about the region, studying the precoloured map, and then testing your knowledge by coloring in the blank map.

EAT – What are your goals for the book?

To make people smile.

EAT – In your preface, you write, “If you follow your passion, you will never work a day in your life.” Wine is obviously a passion for you – tell me a little bit about how you started in this industry, and your path to where you are today.

I think many of us have had an experience with that one special glass of wine that has transported us from a normal person into a wine fanatic. Mine was a glass of Pfaffenheim Gewurztraminer at the bar of Brasserie L’ecole. I got so excited about the aromas and the flavors that I was experiencing, I decided to start taking wine education classes. I’ve never been the same since. There is so much to learn – it’s fascinating. After I graduated with my sommelier diploma from ISG, I had an opportunity to work as a sales representative for Peller Estates WInery. I love working for Peller. I am so proud of the wine that I sell that I wanted to share it with more and more people. So when the opportunity come up to become the International Sales manager, I thought it was a perfect fit. Now I get to share Peller wine with the whole world. My day to day job entails working with our network of distributors all over the world, from Korea, to London to New York City. Our wine is offered in some of the best restaurants and shops in the world and (lucky me) I get to travel and visit these people and places.

EAT – You self-published the book. Would you recommend this route?

Yes, it’s a fantastic learning experience.

EAT – Where can people purchase the book?

Right now online at wineloverscoloringbook.com but I have had a few requests from retailers too, so shortly it will be available in select wine shops and book stores across Canada and the US.

EAT – Outside of The Wine Lover’s Coloring Book (naturally), what resources – traditional or otherwise – do you recommend for wine students, both at a beginners level, and at a very advanced level, like yours?

I think that wine education classes are the way to go. Both the ISG and WSET are good options. I like the courses because you learn the theory, and get to taste the wine while learning from a knowledgable instructor. But the best things about the courses are the people you meet. I met many of my closest friends through wine classes. My favorite print resources are Fine Wine Magazine, Oz Clarke’s Grapes and Vines, Tom Stevenson’s Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia, Karen MacNeil’s The WIne Bible and Jancis Robinson’s Oxford’s Companion.

EAT – Your work and studies provide many travel opportunities. What do wine industry people you meet outside of Canada think about Canadian wines?

People love Canadian wines. Especially icewine. They wish we made more, so we had more to share.

The Wine Lover’s Coloring Book

www.wineloverscoloringbook.com

$24.95
Paperback: 112 pages
Publisher: CreateSpace (January 1, 2012)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1466275790
Product Dimensions: 11 x 8.5 x 0.3 inches
Shipping Weight: 13.4 ounces

Birichino
Malvasia Bianca 2010
Monterey County, California
$26-30 +880302 available at select private liquor retailers
www.birichino.com  

I can’t look at this wine without thinking about spring. It’s not just the visually striking, mysterious tropical Asian influenced floral label. Nor the sprightly sounding winery name – Birichino [biri-kino], Italian for impish or mischievous. Not even for the wine’s sunny beginnings, up on a bench on the western edge of the Salinas Valley in Monterey County, where the ancient Italian Malvasia grape excels in the warm and bright sunlit days and cool nights.

It’s for the striking aromatics – bracing herbal, crystalline mineral and exotic floral notes. Jasmine, chamomile, lime peel and sweet pear lure you into a dry and crisp palate that harkens hazy images of Greek ruins. Fresh perfumed quince, lemongrass, blossom honey, spice and energetic acidity intrigue with each sip and make for a perfectly roguish bottle. Coconut-based curry or seafood soup would swoon for a glass of this.

Owners and winemakers Alex Krause and John Locke aim to “attain the perfect balance of perfume, poise, and puckishness” and they’ve aced it here. Both Krause and Locke worked for years with Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard, and the playful precision of Grahm’s engaging empire is echoed here.

89 Points

It’s hard to believe that the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival ended less than 2 weeks ago. Principals are long since home, tens of thousands of bottles recycled and livers recovered. As for me, my pages tasting notes have been filed away and my impressions, leesy and cloudy during the crush of the festival, have filtered out and clarified.

So what did I take away from the 34th annual VPIWF? A few themes as focussed as Mosel Riesling stand out:

1 – Chile’s whites are worthy of much more attention and credit. The fruit intensity that comes with a sunny climate married with the refreshing acidity that comes with altitude equals great possibilities for Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

2 – Biodynamics can’t be disregarded as black magic. Just because science can’t quantify, justify or qualify biodynamic practices doesn’t mean it’s not real. Why not treat your vines with the same care as your food (green slime burger, anyone?). Also to note – biodynamics and organics can’t be practiced everywhere that grapes are grown. It’s a giant planet with immeasurable climate and soil combinations, and what works for growers in one region might not work in another.

3 – The pendulum has swung. Graceful, lighter reds with structure and finesse like Cru Beaujolais, Rioja and Chianti are where it’s at. The rose revolution is still singing strong. Shining examples are food friendly, of moderate alcohol and celebrate modernity and moderation.

4 – Vancouver is one of the most wine-savvy, sommelier-supportive, food-fervent cities in the world, and we should recognize it and not take it for granted (like icewine, ok?)

I’m already eagerly planning for next year, the 35th year of bringing the wine world to Vancouver, the theme region of California and the global focus of Chardonnay. There were a few scary moments when it was announced on March 9 that the Playhouse Theatre Company was bankrupt and closing its doors immediately. Fortunately, the Playhouse Wine Festival is a separate entity, and is standing strongly on its own. From the official press release:

In light of today’s news about the Playhouse Theatre Company winding down operations, the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival would like to assure the public that the Festival itself will carry on.

“The Wine Festival has flourished in its relationship with the Playhouse Theatre Company and we are saddened by today’s news,” says Wine Festival Board Chair Randy Kaardal. “However, the Wine Festival is a separate society and will continue in staging one of the city’s premier Festivals with our industry partners. We look forward to hosting a successful and vibrant Festival for our patrons in 2013.”

Vibrant and successful indeed – I’ll toast to that. Cheers to all the organizers, volunteers, staff and associated VPIWF venues for their hard work and dedication to the festival – one of the top wine events in the world.

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The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival  is one of North America’s largest and greatest celebrations of wine. In 2011 the theme country is Chile and the focus is Cabernet(s). EAT was on site for the whole week, with daily posts, DRINKs, tweets and updates live from the festival.

Atalaya Winery
Laya 2009
Almansa DO, Spain
$14-16  +189902  available at BC Liquor Stores & select private liquor retailers
www.orowines.com

I first wrote about the Orowines group earlier this year here, and this is another incredible find on our market from this collective.

Atalaya Winery is based in Almansa DO, directly north of Jumilla and in the hot and sunny southeastern side of Spain. Higher altitude vineyards (800m) provide temperature relief and preserve fresh acidity, while limestone soils share their minerality with this dense red. Laya is a blend of 70% Garnacha Tintorera and 30% Monastrell, with 4 months aging in French oak. Dense and alluring violet, anise, blueberry, blackberry and savoury spice held with sweet plush tannins, meld together with power and grace. Concentrated and pure fruit is expressed with finesse. Espresso-shellacked short ribs would sing in this duet. After tasting this for the first time, I immediately returned to the store to stock up. Another spectacular find for under $15.

88 Points