DRINK editor, Treve Ring, asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours. This time we reach back into the archives to see how the pros address Sautéed BC Spot Prawns with pistou, as well as Local Strawberry Shortcake.

*Editor note – this article was originally published in the May/June 2011 print edition of EAT Magazine.

Our Experts:

Rhys Pender (RP)
Master of Wine, Wine Plus+

Rhys is a wine educator, consultant, judge and freelance writer through his company Wine Plus+ and his website www.rhyspender.com. In 2010 Rhys became Canada’s youngest Master of Wine (MW). In 2008 Rhys was named as one of the “Top 40 Foodies Under 40” in Western Canada by Western Living magazine. He writes for a number of publications, judges internationally and is increasingly becoming recognized as one of Canada’s leading experts in the wine business. His career plan is to wait for Robert Parker to retire so he can finally claim back his initials RP for wine reviews.

Van Doren Chan (VD)
Sommelier

Van Doren Chan’s immersion in the Vancouver restaurant industry started from an early age, being born into a family of foodies. Following a diverse professional culinary career, including positions at the Sooke Harbour House, Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver and C Restaurant, Van turned her attention to wine and joined the Opus Hotel Vancouver as Sommelier in 2005, moving on to Salt Tasting Room in 2010. She has now turned her attention to the world of winemaking and is currently living in Osoyoos while also undertaking the Court of the Master Sommeliers certification program. Van is currently one of EATmagazine.ca’s online contributors.

Beth Crawford (BC)
Proprietor, VQA Wine Shop at Mattick’s Farm

In 1998 Beth open the first VQA store in Victoria (the fourth in the Province), and she hasn’t looked back. With over 20 years in the liquor retailing industry she has an extensive background in all areas of wine. “ I love what I do – wine is an integral part of so many aspects of our daily life… it is great to assist our customers with everything from special events to what to have with dinner on Wednesday night.”

What to DRINK With Sautéed BC Spot Prawns with pistou?

RP – There are many wines that would pair beautifully with our fantastic BC Spot Prawns. A crisp, zingy Chablis would be excellent, as would Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or Sancerre. But with the Pistou I would have to recommend a very, very ice cold and fresh Fino Sherry that would perfectly match the saltiness.

VD – Falanghina is one of the most important white grapes in Campania, Italy. Deep straw in color, it has a ripe honeysuckle nose, juicy stone fruit palate, and is low in acidity. Falanghina’s fruit forward characteristics will compliment the creaminess of David Woods’ Montana, and notes of dried herbs will enhance the sweetness of the spot prawns. The zesty quality makes it a palate refresher for the basil based Pistou.

BC – I would recommend BC Pinot Gris. Crisp and flavourful, with intensity of flavour and the acidity that develops in the Okanagan and Island climates would make it a fabulous match. A style that has been fermented to dryness will stand up to the intensity of the garlic and sheep milk cheese; but not overwhelm the delicious flavours of the spot prawns.

BONUS – What to DRINK With Local Strawberry Shortcake?

RP – With the fresh BC strawberries I would look to the beautiful fruit wines of BC from producers such as Elephant Island, Rustic Roots or Forbidden Fruit. There are some delicious Raspberry wines that would be a perfect balance and the Mulberry-Pear from Rustic Roots would also work really well.

VD – Cabernet Franc Icewine. Local strawberries are pulpy, juicy and chewy, so I chose a wine that shares the same profile. This wine has fruit characters of red currant and cherry, and a hint of sumac spice to pair beautifully with strawberries. The bright acidity in the wine gives the same tingling effect on your tongue as the tiny strawberry seeds do.

BC – I would have to go with a BC Icewine made from either Vidal or Ehrenfelser – the acid in these two grape varieties is softer and the fruit more pronounced by the style of the wine, and therefore would balance the acidity and sweetness of the strawberries.

Wines of Worth: Chianti Classico’s Evolution (& Revolution?)

When your region has been officially delimited, your wines recognized for quality and your name familiar all over the wine drinking world since the early 18^th century, one might assume you’re set. Non è vero – not true at all.

While 2013 has been dubbed the year of the Chianti Classico wine revolution by their consortium, Chianti, as a wine and a region, has been redefining itself since Cosimo III, Grand Duke of Tuscany, officially delimited the Chianti production zone in 1716. Back then the production zone was bordered between the cities of Florence and Siena, where the wines of the time were appreciated for their quality. In the early 20^th century, as Chianti’s popularity grew, so did producers’ use of the term. These “Chianti-style” wines were made from further and further abroad, diluting the brand. To defend their wines, the original producers of Chianti, based in the historical heartland, founded the Consortium for the Protection of Typical Chianti Wine and created a Mark of Origin in 1924. Still today, the Black Rooster, proud symbol of local legend, stands for wines from this original area. In 1932, to further differentiate the historic importance, wines from the original Chianti added “Classico” to their names, formalized by ministerial decree. Wines outside of the core centre, but still within a wider, officially recognized zone within Tuscany were simply called Chianti, often accompanied by their region (Rufina, Colli Senesi, etc.)

The Black Rooster wines of Chianti Classico were awarded DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Demonimation of Origin) status in 1984, the highest level for premium Italian wines. As is the case with appellation controls worldwide, every step up the ladder comes with tighter restrictions with regards to aging, yield, grapes, alcohol and more. Now, in 2013, classification changes have been approved that allow for a whole new category at the top of the DOCG Chianti Classico quality pyramid: Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. To qualify for this elevated status, Gran Selezione wines must be 100% produced from the winery’s own grapes (no purchased grapes allowed), be aged for a minimum of 30 months (at least 3 of which must be in bottle) and have stricter technical parameters. Producers can apply in advance for this special certification, which must pass through strict committee testing and tasting before approval.

Under this top level will be Chianti Classico Riserva (24 months aging), with Chianti Classico Annata, (minimum of 12 months maturation) making up the base of the quality pyramid.

Of course, all of the wines of Chianti are based on the Sangiovese grape, “the soul of Tuscany”. Years of dedicated research have identified a handful of superior Sangiovese clones out of the hundreds found in Italy, and these are being encouraged for new plantings. Chianti Classico has to be a minimum of 80% Sangiovese (up to 100% – “in purezza”), and can only be blended with other approved varieties. Red indigenous grapes like Colorino and Canaiolo are allowed, as are some international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – the grapes found in some of the famous Super Tuscan wines. Since 1996 no white grapes are allowed in the Chianti Classico recipe. It will be interesting to see if legendary IGT Super Tuscans like Antinori’s Tignanello (85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc) will adopt the new Chianti Classico Gran Selezione title, since they qualify to apply. My guess is non una possibilità, but the option is open to them. It also remains to be seen how many producers will apply for this new rank, or how it will affect pricing, supply and demand. Other than sharpening winemaking criteria slightly, the wines are still the same; there are no tighter soil/terroir definitions. Note that while the wines all have to come from the producer’s estate to quality, there is nothing stipulating single vineyards or sites. And I wonder if Chianti – already a confusing enough category for the consumer – will see any benefit from these new regs, or if it’s just muddying the waters more. Do we have another fiaschi on our hands?

The Consorzio was in Vancouver earlier this month to introduce the new classification changes and present a wide range of proud Black Rooster, Chianti Classico DOCG wines. It is expected that the new law will come into effect later this year, meaning that unreleased wines from the 2010 vintage will be able to qualify as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione.

Chianti Classico - www.chianticlassico.com/en

L-R: Brenda Sopow, Mark Davidson, Brooke Delves

What to DRINK with That – Mexican: Modern & Traditional 

DRINK editor Treve Ring asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours. This time we are focusing on Mexican: Modern & Traditional.

Our Experts:

Brooke Delves (BD)
Sommelier, Wildebeest
Recognized as one of the Vancouver’s foremost hospitality and wine professionals, Brooke Delves first discovered her passion for the restaurant world at a young age, while helping out at her mother’s café. She then spent a number of years studying the art of service and worked her way up to management positions in several Vancouver hotspots. After completing her certificate levels with the International Sommelier Guild, she worked at wine-savvy Salt Tasting Room as assistant manager for two and a half years before managing the wine program, staff education, and service at celebrated Thai restaurant Maenam. In 2012, Brooke was named to the Premier Crew at the Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards, which recognizes outstanding service in the industry. At Wildebeest, Brooke directs and curates an impressive wine program dedicated to highlighting small and unique producers for the restaurant and its wine bar, The Underbelly.

Mark Davidson (MD)
Education Director for Wine Australia
Born in London, raised in Sydney Mark has over twenty five years experience in the hotel and restaurant business, fifteen of those as a Sommelier. In 1990 Mark was named Best French Wine and Spirit Sommelier in British Columbia and in 2001 he was name Sommelier of the Year by the British Columbia Restaurant and Food Service Association. As a Department Head and instructor with the International Sommelier Guild he was instrumental in the on going development of the curriculum and has taught classes in Vancouver, Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Diego and Las Vegas. In 2012 he passed the tasting portion of the Master of Wine program and will be sitting the theory section in June 2013

Brenda Sopow (BS)
Product Consultant, Fort Street Signature Store BCLDB
Brenda’s love affair with wine started in earnest when she arrived in Victoria in 1986 and began working with the BCLDB.  There, she discovered others who were passionate about wine and joined a small but very exuberant club called the WineSwines, later becoming the Victoria Wine Society. In 1997, she moved into the position as Product Consultant at what is now the Fort Street Signature Liquor Store. There, she completed WSET Level 3 (with distinction), and recently, the French Wine Scholar program.  Many years of bringing customers and wine together make up her informal, yet valuable experience.

What to DRINK with: Modern Mexican

Yucatan Pork  : Achiote pork slow roasted in banana leaves with caramelized onion, orange, cinnamon, honey lime yams, caramelized brussels sprouts, pineapple jicama salsa

BD. Aged white Rioja! I may be playing favorites but I can’t help myself when it comes to the rich and oxidative style of this wine. It lifts the aromatics of the cumin and coriander in the achiote and makes ANYTHING caramelized really sing. It’s exotic and built for food with a nose of smoked apricot and pineapple with all those delicious nutty undertones. This Viura, Malvasia blend plays in tandem to every aspect of this dish.

MD. Rheingau or Pfalz Riesling. Halb-trocken. While this dish has lovely savory elements from the slow roasted nature of the pork there’s some serious sweet too. I want the wine to have lively fruit to match those elements , crisp acidity to echo the citrus components and enough weight to not be over powered, hence the halb-trocken style. Schmeckt Gut……

BS. There are earthy notes as well as savory and warm spice in the achiote, so thinking about them makes me want to recommend a lighter bodied old world wine like a Rioja crianza to reflect that.  It should have youthful fruit, bright acidity and not much oak, allowing it to get along with the other flavours in the dish.  Otherwise I might focus on the richness of the pork and the caramelized onion with the citrus and tropical fruit.  An off-dry white such as a Chenin Blanc from the Loire or Alsatian Pinot Gris should be weighty and acidic enough as counterpoint. My choice of red or white would reflect the season and the time of day. 

Traditional Mexican

Carnitas Pork Burrito  : Pork butt, garlic, onions, avocado, jalapeño, tortilla

BD. Definitely something bright and pretty and light on its feet like Vouvray Sec. These lovely whites from the Loire typically show a slightly honeyed green apple and citrus which is great with pork and jalapeño. These dry style Chenin Blancs also have the acidity to help balance the richness of the avocado.

MD. Australian Grenache. This is a fantastic lunch type dish with lots of big flavours and some heat. Ripe fruit is needed here but you don’t want heavy tannin. The concentration and supple nature of quality Barossa or McLaren Vale Grenache is just begging for a match like this. So, roll up your sleeves, pour a tumbler of Grenache and revel in the messy faced grin that this combination will inspire.

BS. I think a supple, medium to full bodied red, with generous fruit and soft tannins is needed here for the pork and garlic.  A Chilean Carmenere would be my first choice, followed by a new world Merlot (like California), as long as it’s not too heavy on the wood.  A juicy Argentine Malbec would go do down nicely too.  I would be looking for full flavour here and good acidity levels, but would avoid excessive tannic grip! If there is a lot of heat in the dish I would watch for high alcohol in the wine as it can amplify that heat.

VINcabulary Pinot Noir

{pino nwaʁ}

They don’t call it the heartbreak grape for nothing. The haunting scented memories of one perfectly aged Grand Cru Burgundy have been imprinted on my brain for years. Each Pinot Noir I sniff fails to reach the perfumed, ethereal grace and quiet power of that one wine over a decade ago. Not that I object to the hunt, mind you. It’s just that capricious Pinot Noir can be intoxicatingly beguiling, or maddeningly disappointing (more oft the latter in unskilled hands). I was comforted to see it’s not just me that feels this way about this ancient grape. In Jancis Robinson’s brilliant Wine Grapes, the black grape is described as thus: “Finicky Burgundian vine produces wildly variable, relatively delicate, potentially haunting essences of place.”

Numerous clones, various mutations and countless synonyms over the past, oh, 1000 years or so have made it a difficult family tree to follow. What is certain however, is this low-yielding, early budding, early ripening grape appreciates calcareous-clay and limestone soils and cool-moderate temperate climates. The heartbreak nickname also references this delicate grape’s susceptibility to mildews, botrytis and viruses. But in this fine tuned grape’s delicacy also lies its strength. Fewer grapes can transmit terroir like this one, expressing the slightest change in soil and vintage, especially in Burgundy where it rules the Côte-d’Or alongside Chardonnay. In non-interventionist hands, Pinot Noir provides a sincere fingerprint of time. Though it varies wildly depending on where it is grown, the grape shows characteristic cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit, and earthy, autumn mushroom notes. Most are lighter in hue, higher in acidity and have low-moderate (easy-drinking) tannins. Select Burgundies can be among the priciest wines in the world, and can age for decades. But these are rare – there is much more Pinot Noir grown in Champagne than Burgundy, where it is a major component of the blend.

Of course, the popularity of Sideways and Miles’ love affair with Pinot Noir propelled the grape into American mainstream culture and store shelves like never before. Timing was perfect for the grape’s fruity, lighter, softer style to contrast tannic Cabernet Sauvignon or plump, ripe Merlot. For food-friendly reds, Pinot Noir is a great choice for lighter meats (poultry, pork), pink skinned fish (salmon, tuna) and a natural for pairing to mushroom dishes.

ORCHARD

Liquidity Wines
Pinot Noir 2010
Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, BC
*$24-28  13.5%

Liquidity is relatively new to the BC wine scene, though showing confidently through their proficient, practiced team. 19 year old vines, sustainably harvested, show fresh Okanagan orchard fruits at first whiff, with sweet red cherries, ripe raspberries, fine rasped spice and a lick of red licorice. There’s a lovely, silky fluidity on the palate, through to the finish.

VENERABLE

Joseph Drouhin
Côte de Beaune 2009
Burgundy, France
$40-45  13%

Herbal spice and anise sweetness tinged with a soft puff of tobacco smoke lure you into the glass. Black cherry and sun warmed stone mingle happily on the juicy palate, with a welcome light gravel tannin grip, and a lingering bitter cherry finish. Accessibly priced Burgundy, from an excellent name.

SMOKEY

Ata Rangi
Crimson Pinot Noir 2011
Martinborough, New Zealand
$28-32  13.5%

Like walking through a dewy, mossy forest in the early morning with hints of lingering campfire smoke in the air. This mouthfilling red is teeming with herbal raspberry, black cherry and juicy blackcurrant notes. Smooth and silky on the palate, with dried wild herb textured tannins on the lengthy finish.

LAYERED

Crowley
La Colina Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010
Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon
*$64   13%

Another amazing wine available at Marquis Wines, this single vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is from a site in the perfumed Dundee Hills. Complexity in spades – white pepper dominant bouquet garni, violet leaf, ripe black cherry, and fragrant raspberry on the fuller, succulent palate. The bright acidity is flawlessly supportive. Clove and nutmeg close out the long finish.

HERBAL

Josef Chromy Wines
Pinot Noir 2010
Tasmania, Australia
*$30-35  13%

Juicy, vibrant and tart, in the best possible way – one that beckons food or is happy for solo contemplation. Perfumed strawberry, young moss, red cherries, spring rhubarb and persistent savoury herbs throughout. Lovely finely ground cinnamon bark on the finish.

ROUND

Domaine Chandon
Blanc de Noirs NV
Napa Valley, California
$28-32   13%

Blanc de Noirs translates as White from Blacks, or in this case, very pale white peach, from black grapes. A splash of Pinot Meunier completes this blend, yielding a round, softer sparkler with mild strawberry, young cherry, yellow Macintosh apples and shiny lemon notes. A pretty, perfumed rose note on the finish.

DRINKing Guide: How to use our purchasing information.

*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores.

WINES OF WORTH – 2012 VINTAGE IN THE OKANAGAN VALLEY

‘Tis the season. No – not that season. Even better. Rosé season! Spring in wine country, and by extension, locavore-loving BC, means the first appearance of 2012 whites and rosés in restaurants and store shelves. Earlier this week a small panel of winemakers and viticulturists from the Okanagan gathered to discuss last year’s vintage and give a glimpse of what we’re soon going to be enjoying in the glass.

Though 2010 and 2011 were widely recognized as “challenging” vintages, the wines from these piggybacked cool years ultimately yielded wines of bright acidity, low alcohol and a clean refinement that was welcome by most consumers. 2011 was one of the coolest vintages on record. In contrast, 2012 was much warmer, though not excessively or damagingly so. In fact, the panel was positively jolly that 2012 was “average”.

{I talked to a number of winemakers mid-harvest last fall. See what they had to say back THEN}

Healthy rains in the spring and into June provided ample water to the vines, and a warm and dry summer carried through into September and the start of the 2102 harvest in the southern Okanagan, on September 9. This year I noticed a definite shift in irrigation mentality across the panel. Instead of irrigation deprivation – denying the plant water to provide stress and concentrate the flavours in the grapes – winemakers’ pendulum has shifted to careful and measured watering as the plant needs it. Warwick Shaw, viticulturalist at Tantalus, noted that “the plants pay for deficit irrigation in hard winters, as they may die off. There is a move to not overstress the vines.”

Though in many regards, 2012 was a “textbook year” according to the panelists, the main hiccup shared down the valley was a period of rainfall during the last two weeks of the harvest. While most of the white grapes were in, the majority of the black grapes were still on vine when the rains hit, leaving some wineries in a scramble to pick or gamble on the wet conditions. Soggy grapes are no good in the winery (think adding a splash of water to your glass of Riesling) or hanging on the vine (dampness can lead to disease and rot).

Fortunately, however, last summer’s extended warmth has translated to riper, fruit-expressive wines. You’ll notice a bit more tropical fruit in the whites, and plumper roundness in many of the reds. In comparison to the leanness of 2011, this highlights the importance of vintage – and why wine geeks like me get caught up talking about them. AND (topic for another column), one reason why vintages on restaurant winelists are so important.

Okanagan Crush Pad winemaker Michael Bartier summed up the wines succinctly. “2012 is a baby. I’m drinking 2007 BC wines right now. They’re really good.” Excellent to hear. I like having something to look forward to.

Here are a few first tastes from the 2012 vintage in the Okanagan Valley.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards Gewurztraminer 2012, BC VQA Okanagan Valley. $18.49  12.9%
From Oliver’s Golden Mile, this Gew is mostly 16 year old vines (that’s old for the Okanagan) and full of soft perfume, fragrant lemon blossom and ripe gooseberry. Moderate acidity and medium body, with lingering peach spiciness to lead through the finish.

Sandhill Sauvignon Blanc 2012, BC VQA Okanagan Valley. $18.99  13.5%
This is the first Sauvignon Blanc from Hidden Terrace Vineyard, nestled behind McIntyre Bluff north of Oliver. An impressive showing from three year old vines, with bright acidity, light herbal and tight green spring bud greenness and sweet, ripe grapefruit to temper.

Van Westen Vineyards Viognier 2012, BC VQA Okanagan Valley.  $24.90  13.7%
Naramata Bench’s Rob Van Westen has never been known for making shy wines, and the newest Viognier is true to form. Even in this unreleased tank sample, the perfumed cold cream, tropical honeysuckle, white flowers and spike of ginger spice previews a ripe, highly perfumed lush and creamy white.

Haywire Switchback Vineyard Pinot Gris 2012, BC VQA Okanagan Valley. $23.00  13%
This tank sample, from Summerland’s experimental Switchback Vineyard, hints at the constant evolution of Okanagan Crush Pad’s wines. At this site, extensive soil analysis has resulted in various small lots of Pinot Gris being treated and fermented separately, and then reunited in the winery. The pure fruit intensity and creamy textured weight promise an impressive finished wine. I’m looking forward to this upon release.

Tantalus Vineyards Riesling 2012, BC VQA Okanagan Valley. $22.90  12.3%
Another fantastic example of vintage-driven wines, the 2012 Riesling has a beautiful concentration of pear, lime blossom and their characteristic quenching lime acidity. This year a touch of the tropics adds an additional dimension and amps up the palate plumpness. Delish. As viticulturalist Warwick Shaw put it, “It’s Riesling. Don’t get too cute with it.”

For more information on BC’s wine regions visit BC Wine Institute – www.winebc.org

WINES OF WORTH – THE WINE ISLANDS

Thanks to the collective efforts of a passionate group of wine lovers and grape growers, the Wine Islands has become a recognized, if not sanctioned, term for the wineries, cideries, meaderies and distilleries on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. Last week saw the Wine Islands Vintners Association (WIVA) hold their 5th annual Wine Islands Spring Tasting in Victoria. The evening public ticketed tasting at the Fairmont Empress was preceded by an industry-only trade event in the afternoon – both tastings an opportunity for producers to directly share the fruits of their labour. This year there were over 30 participating producers pouring their newest releases and chatting up an oeno-enthusiastic crowd.

Drinking up the Islands on a lovely sunny spring day can’t be beat. However, this year the timing was particularly apt as the newly updated and expanded Island Wineries of British Columbia is just hitting store shelves. A collaboration of a small but mighty group of EAT contributors (of which I am proud to be one of), the first edition was named winner of the Gourmand International Wine Books Award 2011 for Canada and a finalist for the Bill Duthie Booksellers’ Choice Award, 2012 BC Book Prizes. Lovely accolades, sure, but the biggest thrill was to share the story of our local vintners with a worldwide audience. Now two years later, the newest edition includes seven new wineries and many updates to reflect the growing and innovative local industry. It’s rewarding to hear that the colourful and informative read of the history, grapes, and characters making up this unique Island terroir has had an impact.

And I could certainly feel the impact at the tasting. Even though the last two vintages on the Wine Islands have been challenging, the vintners I spoke with were overwhelmingly positive with the sort of ‘when life hands you lemons, make lemonade’ attitude that pioneering folk seem imbued with. Some of that lemonade will translate as 2011 and 2012’s rosés, creative blends and experimental dessert wines. Which leads to another trait that all these vintners seem to possess: tenacity. Grape growing is tricky in our marginal, coastal climate. In cooler, wetter years, it becomes nearly impossible. Don’t tell that to passionate wine growers however. Over the past decade growers have been honing in on which grapes work on what sites with which type of rootstock and kind of trellising system. What to spray (or not), how to crush berries (or not), what filters to use (or not)… From hybrid grapes to fruit wines, these original producers are studying and experimenting with it all. And that’s not even getting into packaging, marketing and SELLING (including website!)  – also highly important and often overlooked. There are literally thousands of choices to make in winemaking, and unlike historically established wine regions with centuries of trial and error, we have a couple of decades. We are new, but all signs indicate that we are here to stay.

I’m very fortunate in my career to taste regularly wines from all around the world, affording me a valuable and apparently rare vantage point. I see many similarities to other cool climate regions, to other coastal areas and to other young production locations, but nowhere shares the exact terroir that we have – that’s what makes the Wine Islands so unique. My only advice to those thinking to plant here, or new to the game is to taste outside of our shores, province and region. Taste what is coming out of other new and established wine regions. Taste, taste, taste and don’t compare your wines to what your neighbour is doing, but what your equal in Germany, the Loire, New Zealand and elsewhere is doing. Express here, but learn from elsewhere.

I sadly didn’t make it around to every table during the 2 hour trade event, but here are some of my highlights from the wineries I tasted with:

40 Knots Estate & Winery
2011 Whitecaps
Comox Valley
$23
It’s not just the Okanagan that can pull off the popular off-dry white blend. A brand new wine for 40 Knots, Pinot Gris and Schoenberger come together in this highly perfumed, peach blossom and Asian pear kissed white.

Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery
2012 Blanc de Noir
Comox Valley
$17.50
From Vancouver Island grapes (and a very forward-thinking couple), this off dry Pinot Noir rosé is lovely spiced strawberry and perfumed peach stone.

Cherry Point Estate Wines
2010 Classico
Cowichan Valley
$28.50
Love the rebranding of Cherry Point – the striking and memorable labels are fantastic. Only 100 cases of this traditional method sparkling were made, so pick up a bottle if you see it. Estate Pinot Gris is crafted into a lovely dry and crisp sparkler, with bright green apple acidity, scented lemon and stony minerality.

Damali Lavender Farm & Winery
2011 Rosea
Cowichan Valley
$29
Located on a sustainable and picturesque lavender farm, it made sense to hearken the fragrant plants on the labels. However, this unique wine takes it beyond, using lavender syrup as the dosage for this traditional method bubble. Estate Castell and Cowichan Pinot Gris grapes make up the blend – finished off with the aforementioned floral syrup. The result is a spicy and peppery scented, light raspberry sparkling rose, with a herbal, oily note and distinct floral finish.

Enrico Winery
2011 Ortega
Cowichan Valley
$13.40
This fragrant wine was released at $17, but recently reduced to make way for the 2012 vintage. Soft shell spice, anise seed and ample lemon, this perfumed white finishes crisp and fresh.

Starling Lane Winery
2012 Sauvignon Blanc
Saanich Peninsula
$21
Though this popular winery will cease operation after this summer (and a remarkable 10 years in the business), they are still coming out with new surprises. If there’s another Sauv Blanc from the Islands, I haven’t seen it. This, the inaugural release of a Sauvignon Blanc is from a small plot of 5 year old vines they were experimenting with. Only 50 cases were made of this uber-herbal white, grassy-green and crisp, with some bright apple and lemon pith on the finish.

WINES OF WORTH – Chocolate & Wine – Do Two Rights Make a Wrong?

Easter is here, and there are probably chocolates of various shapes and colours passing your path this long weekend.

Chocolate and wine. Some swear by it, others swear off it. Most agree, chocolate and wine are two of life’s greatest pleasures. Alone, that is. They two have lots in common; both are made from fruit (chocolate is derived from cocoa nibs – the seeds of the fruit of the cocoa tree), both reflect the terroir of where they were grown (flavour and aroma compounds in both cacao pod and grape reflect their growing conditions, soil, climate, root stock and harvest), both are typically blends of beans or grapes, selected to complement the whole. And perhaps most telling – most have a vocabulary of dozens of words to describe flavour, texture, body and aroma.

The following are published reviews – two for chocolate and two for wine.  Can you tell which is which?  (see bottom of this article for answers)

1 – “Complex, with a floral aroma and herbal notes”

2 – “Bold chocolate flavour with subtle coffee notes in this smooth blend”

3 – “Smooth, rich and full, with caramel notes”

4 – “Alluring fig, mocha, boysenberry ganache and sweet spice”

IF YOU FORGET EVERYTHING ELSE, REMEMBER THIS:

The wine should be at least as sweet, if not a touch sweeter, than the chocolate you are serving it with. Pairing a wine that is drier (a.k.a less sweet) than the chocolate will make the wine veer towards sour and flat.

Like with Like. Match lighter, more elegant chocolates with lighter bodied wines.  Likewise, a stronger, robust chocolate would suit a full bodied wine.

But Don’t Go Overboard. Don’t go all matchy-matchy.  Chocolate and cocoa are often terms used to describe flavours in red wines – this does not mean that all red wines and chocolate are a pair made.

Let Out Your Inner Chef. Flavours you find in chocolate bars (caramel, nuts, raspberry) are often flavours found in wines.  Think about flavours, seek those bottles out and give them a go.

Get Feely. Chocolatiers use texture and weight to add complexity and body.  Wines with a rich textural heft and chewiness will be your best bet for these strong chocolates.

Break Away from the Norm. Contrary to popular belief, champagne and chocolate do not typically play well together. With the sweet chocolate, champagne comes across tart – even the demi-secs (sweeter styles) are too delicate to stand up to the coating cocoa butter mouthfeel. Save the champagne for strawberries.

Be Diplomatic. If you’re only buying one single wine to go with your chocolate tasting, choose a juicy red that is low in tannins (i.e. Zinfandel).

Follow the Pattern. If you are tasting numerous wines and chocolates (recommended), work from light chocolates to dark.  Start with a subtle plain white bar, and end with a rich bittersweet one.

Don’t Storm the Fort(ifieds). Fortified wines, with their higher liquor content, smoother body and bolder taste, are generally great partners with chocolate.  Just be sure you select the right wines for the right occasions – see the chart below for suggestions.  *Note – vintage ports, however, are too delicate to be enjoyed with the richness of chocolate.  Just enjoy them all on their own.

Open the Liqueur Cabinet. Liqueurs can be a fantastic match for stronger flavours, therefore they tend to favor dark chocolates. The softer, sweeter flavor of milk chocolate is overwhelmed by their intensity.

Be Bold, like Aussie Shiraz. Get out there and taste!  Sometimes atypical combinations work best.  Don’t be afraid to try unique wines, like Sparkling Shiraz and Oloroso Sherry.

Pairing Suggestions

Now that you have the basics, use this handy chart to create your own tasting party (go ahead – raid the Easter basket):

*Wine/Chocolate Description Quiz Answers – #1, 2 are both published quotes describing chocolate and #3, 4 are published quotes describing wine.

What to DRINK with That : Baked Spring Leg of Lamb + Asparagus 

*Note – this column was originally published in the print edition of EAT Magazine, March 2011. 

DRINK editor Treve Ring, asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours. In advance of Easter and to celebrate spring, we look at Baked Spring Leg of Lamb, plus one of the hardest foods of all time to pair – asparagus.

Our Experts:

Mark Shipway (MS)
Wine Program Department Head, International Culinary School
Mark is a displaced Englishman who upped sticks and moved to Vancouver six years ago because he heard it was nice and located in the only Canadian province with the word ’British’ in the title. Mark studied winemaking & viticulture at the University of Brighton as well taking the WSET Diploma in Wines & Spirits in which he graduated with honours in 1999. He currently works for International Culinary School where he administrates their award winning WSET wine program. Mark has been a regular judge for the UK’s premier International Wine & Spirit Competition and is also contributing writer.

Marc Morrison (MM)
Maître d’hôtel, Sommelier, Brasserie l’école
Marc was the first accredited sommelier in Victoria and brings to Brasserie l’école his passion and knowledge of wine and extensive serving and management experience. Marc’s concise, ever-changing wine program is crammed with value gems, and he’ll open any bottle in the restaurant if you buy 2 glasses. His cozy slip of a Brasserie is perennially packed, and it continues to be recognized internationally as one of the top restaurants, and best wine lists, in Victoria.

Sandra Oldfield (SO)
Winemaker and owner, Tinhorn Creek Winery
A native of California, Sandra Oldfield arrived at Tinhorn Creek from Santa Rosa, in time for the 1995 crush. Since then she has taken the production from 1,000 cases to more than 35,000 cases. She holds a master’s degree in Enology from UC Davis (plus Canadian citizenship as of October 2002)! Sandra, her husband Kenn Oldfield, and their daughter Melody live in a house perched at the top of the Tinhorn Creek winery vineyards.

What would you pair with Baked Spring Leg of Lamb with rosemary & garlic, green beans and roast potatoes.  

MS – This wine-friendly dish is a sommelier’s dream! Generally classic dishes like this one provide a perfect backdrop for classic fine wines from regions like Bordeaux or the northern Rhône. But let’s be a bit rad and go for something Greek (yes they do make great wines in Greece)! Greece’s round, fleshy Agiorgitiko grape (eye-your-yee-tee-ko) has the weight and structure to balance the roast lamb, and its savoury, herb-tinged flavours should echo the dishes seasonings nicely. Look for Nemea appellation on the label – there are a couple available in BC.

MM – Bordeaux or Bordeaux blend, preferably one with a large percentage of Cabernet Franc. I really like blends that have a high percentage of Cabernet Franc as I feel that grape’s floral characteristic would work well with the rosemary and garlic on the lamb. A straight Cabernet Franc would be too light on its own and needs the body provided by Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot

SO – The lamb screams a Pinot noir pairing and I have always been partial to those made in the Russian River Valley area of California. The Pinots from this area as very fruit forward but they also have very complex flavours such as jam, spice and vanilla. These wines have good depth, and are warm and round – great to pair with a succulent roast spring leg of lamb.

BONUS question – what would you pair with Grilled Spring Asparagus with Butter, Lemon and Sea Salt?

MS – In contrast to the lamb, this dish is a much harder one to pair wine with, mainly because the vegetal, slightly bitter nature of asparagus is instant flavour clash material. When I think of lemon, sea salt and anything green, I instantly get images of the Mediterranean and the simple cucina of central & southern Italy. Italian whites are just made to drink with this kind of dish and my top choices would be a Verdicchio from the Marche or a Grillo from Sicily. Key elements are lightish body, refreshing acidity, clean citrus and herbal favours and no oak.

MM - Tough One. Asparagus is such a dangerous wine-food (like eggs and artichokes – I think it’s something about foods starting with vowels). I’ve been told that Chinon (a Loire valley red made from Cabernet Franc) pairs well but I think the dish screams for white. I would consider either an aromatic white, such as an Alsatian Gewurztraminer, or a crisp, clean Sauvignon Blanc. I would avoid anything with tannins or lots of oak.

SO – I Learned at UC Davis that asparagus is the most difficult food to pair wine with – so thanks for the challenge!  Almost no wine goes with asparagus, however you prepare it, but the best I have found is any crisp, unoaked Sauvignon Blanc.  My favourite come from Marlborough in New Zealand, and I am particularly fond of the Wither Hills. It really gets your mouth watering for a BBQ meal with grilled asparagus.

WINES OF WORTH : BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO

Earlier this week Vancouver was whisked away to Tuscany. Or, at least, Vancouver’s palates were. The Brunello di Montalcino World Experience took over the Terminal City Club for a day, exposing trade and consumers to these respected wines. Like the rolling hills of Tuscany, the melodic Italian language, and the glowing, ethereal light of the region, these wines express sense of place. In Montalcino, that expression began in wines with the 1843 harvest, and strengthened until Brunello di Montalcino was given DOC status in 1966 and awarded the first ever DOCG designation in 1980.

Montalcino is a town located approximately 40km south of Siena and 120km from Florence. The ancient Montalcino hill is flanked by vineyards planted mostly to Brunello, a clone of Sangiovese that originated in this area and are unique to the region. The production area is bordered by the Orcia, Asso and Ombrone valleys, creating a nearly circular area covering 60,000 acres. Though highly differentiated soils makes it hard to generalize, the rocky mix of limestone, sand and clay are evident in the structure of the wines. A mild, Mediterranean climate blankets the region, with various microclimates arising via hillsides, slopes and altitudes. The higher altitude and sunny climate contribute to Brunello’s consistent full ripening, resulting in increased body, color, extract and tannins when compared to Sangiovese from elsewhere in Tuscany (like Chianti). Also, unlike the sea of Chianti, production is quite limited, making these regal wines rarer, demand greater and prices higher.

To quality as Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, rigorous standards must be met. The following is taken from the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalicino website:

Production Rules of Brunello di Montalcino

- Production area: The Montalcino Township

- Variety: Sangiovese (also called “Brunello” in Montalcino)

- Maximum yield of grapes: 80 quintals per hectare

- Ratio of grape yield to wine: 68%

- Minimum aging in wood: 2 years in oak. Minimum aging in bottles: 4 months (6 months for the Riserva)

- Colour: intense ruby red tending towards garnet as it ages

- Odour: characteristic intense perfume

- Taste: dry, warm, lightly tannic, robust and harmonious

- Minimum alcohol content: 12.5% Vol.

- Minimum total acidity: 5 g/lt

- Minimum net dry extract: 24 g/lt

- Bottling: can only be done with the production area

- Ready to be sold: 5 years after the year of the harvest (6 years for the Riserva)

- Packaging: Brunello di Montalcino can only be sold if it is in Bordelaise shaped bottles

If you couldn’t ascertain from the above Taste guidelines (ha!), Brunello is hallmarked by elegant black cherry, perfumed wild raspberry, wood, violets and leather. The fragrant florality of the Mediterranean is evident in the glass. These high quality wines are long aged and very long lived, with most not reaching full potential for at least a decade. Youthful Brunello can be a tannic monster, although modern practices in the winery have lessened these beasts, yielding a wine that is drinkable far earlier. Even traditionalists will agree that these wines need to adapt to suit today’s consumers, and while we can (and should) still lie these down for a while, we can also enjoy them today. Pour these with red meats and game, Bolognese sauced pastas and aged cheeses.

Prior to the main tasting room, a select trade group was guided through a lineup of Brunello di Montalcino from the 2008 vintage, a very good (4*) vintage in the area and what we’re starting to see on our shelves now. Certainly the drinkability was noticeable, even from more traditional producers, though the majority would still benefit from a few more years before drinking to allow the tannins to soften. It was lovely to see that the essence of Brunello di Montalcino can be enjoyed without a decade of waiting – certainly a benefit to today’s wine consumers. Here are a few wines from the 2008 vintage that are available in BC or will be soon:

Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2008
$60-65  14%
This major producer has created a modern wine for the modern consumer – friendly, approachable and crying out for food. Fermentation in hybrid stainless steel/wood tanks adds characteristic wood savouriness while preserving a lot of fresh fruit. Spiced strawberry, plum licorice and bright, tart cranberry liveliness lead to a slightly astringent, herbal finish.

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalicino DOCG 2008
*$55-60   14%
A subtle perfumed cherry nose hints of well-heeled restraint, and indeed this elegant wine delivered. Notes of forest and undergrowth mingle with red cherry and young raspberry, lifted by bright acidity and fit nicely into a structured frame.

Celestino Pecci Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2008
*$54-59  14%+
More modern in style, with black cherry and blackberry, herbal mint, lily and spice. A medicinal anise note throughout, alluring texture and ample brushed tannins to a lengthy toasted vanilla finish.

Tenuta San Giorgio Brunello di Montalicino DOCG 2008
*Approximately $50  14.5%
A lovely and graceful wine, with gentle soft raspberry, wild strawberry, violets. The palate is floral femininity, along with liquorice, wild blackberry and black cherry, Fine grained tannins are a touch powdery now, but this is a wine that will reward in a few years time.

For more on Brunello di Montalcino, visit the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino website – a great resource for the area, production and wines.

DRINKing Guide: How to use our purchasing information.
*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores.

SAUVIGNON BLANC

{SOH-vin-yohn BLAHNGK; soh-vee-nyawn BLAHN}

“Cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush.”

That was my initial introduction to Sauvignon Blanc. For a budding wine enthusiast this was at once terrifying (you want me to drink what?) and relieving (finally wine descriptors that make sense!), and even as a gnarly vine wine enthusiast that description has stuck with me. Of course, Sauvignon Blanc is so much more than that memorable phrase. This green-skinned grape most likely hails from France’s Loire Valley, where it can blindingly shine in the Kimmeridgian limestone and Silex flint. As the third most planted white variety in France, Sauvignon Blanc (from the French for sauvage, meaning wild), is also comfortably at home in Bordeaux, blending in harmony with Semillon; and also throughout Languedoc-Roussillon, contributing greatly to simple and tart Pays d’Oc. The highly vigorous grape is widely adaptable, spreading as easily worldwide as its tangled and aggressive foliage. All things green are its hallmark: grass, hedge, meadow, asparagus, kiwi, green peppers, gooseberries, as well as passionfruit and elderflower in slightly warmer climates. Crisp, piercing acidity permeates all wines, save for those harvested in the hottest regions, and helps preserve freshness and zest in late harvest or oaked examples. The grape rocketed to fame over the past 20 years in New Zealand, finding a prime home for a concentrated, pungent, fresh and unoaked style.

FRIENDLY

Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars
Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Okanagan Valley, BC
*$19-25  12%

If Sauvignon Blanc’s aggressive bite has made you shy away, try again with this lovely balanced style from one of BC’s top producers. Partial fermentation in old French oak has tempered the grape’s piercing acidity, and gentle lees treatment has rounded the mouthfeel. Focused and sunny without sharpness, with light meadow, green apple and citrus freshness.

LIVELY

Domaine Laporte
Les Duchesses 2010
Pouilly-Fumé, Loire, France
$30-35  12.5%

At first sniff through to last drop – flint, stone and lime pith. This dry, bracing white from the Loire has mouthwatering white grapefruit and tight, white flowers in spades, along with chalky minerality, cool cantaloupe and cooler earth. Assertive and awesomely unapologetic, this is a wine that mirrors its place.

GREEN

Cono Sur
Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2012
San Antonio Valley, Aconcagua, Chile
*$15-18  13%

Green from production (organic) to fruits (gooseberry, lime), this coastal valley Chilean white is pleasantly padded with ripe pear, pink grapefruit and green apple. There is a likeable spicy lemon zest and fragrant tropical blossom to the finish. This Sauv Blanc strikes a great balance between tropical richness and marine freshness.

STEELY

Francois Lurton
Les Fumées Blanches 2011
Vin de Pays d’Oc, Languedoc, France
$14-17  12%

Superb value in this mainstay screwcap bottle (a by-the-glass favourite of many local sommeliers). A puff of smoke and large pinch of savoury rock salt opens into dried apricot, green apple, wild grasses, bitter melon and a pleasing, almost-oily palate. Focused and steely acidity throughout.

EXPRESSIVE

Greywacke Vineyards
Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Marlborough, New Zealand
* $30-33  13.5%

This is one of those wines that lingers long after the bottle is empty. Intriguing herbal stoniness is your first aromatic introduction, and the sweetest, early-spring asparagus is the first across the palate. Savoury cured pork, honey, light petrol, citrus and apricot fuzz present in the glass, with ever-present flinty minerality. The mouthfeel is rich, but the taut acid keeps it lean. The finish is fresh and lingering – and the memory yearning for the next glass. The 2011 vintage is on shelves now.

CREAMY

Ferrari-Carano
Fumé Blanc 2011
Sonoma County, California
$25-30  13.9%

This ripe and creamy oaked white will equally suit white fish as it will white meats. Light ash, toast and red apple aromas lead to a round and full bodied palate with white honey, baked lemon, pear and gooseberry. Fresh melon on the finish, and lemony acidity keep this wine buoyant, and a herbal, anise-medicinal note on the finish keeps it edgy.

DRINKing Guide: How to use our purchasing information.
*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores.