Most consumers consider the quality of the fish they purchase by how “fresh” it is. Having been in the industry for more than 17 years I have come to realize that fresh, at best, usually means it is delivered to market 2 or 3 days after it was caught. It can then sit in a chilled display for 3 more days. Technically the fish is still “fresh” as it hasn’t been frozen but is it good quality?
There is a term used in the commercial fish industry; “Bottom fresh”. This means that the fish being delivered was caught during the first days at sea and was on the “bottom” of the storage hold. If we consider a fishing boat being at sea for 3 days to a week then the difference between “bottom fresh” and “top fresh” (first and last caught) can mean a great deal in the quality of the product going to market or to restaurants.
This unknown has led me to purchase almost exclusively from reliable suppliers that flash freeze fish at sea within hours of being caught. I can then be certain that the product I am purchasing will be as close to its original quality as possible without catching it myself. A good supplier will freeze the catch on board at minus 40 degrees C (or F, they are the same) within an hour or two of catching it. It arrives in my kitchen in the exact same condition every time allowing for a consistently high quality product (a rare and precious thing in my industry). Freezing will also bring a swift halt to all microbiological activity in the fish, including the pathogens which cause food poisoning and spoilage. This gives the peace of mind that the fish you are serving will be healthy and not potentially dangerous.
Another benefit of purchasing frozen (and more important in my opinion) is the ability to ship the product in a much more efficient and sustainable manner. Fresh fish is commonly shipped by air to destinations away from the coast to ensure its relative quality and value. The amount of energy used to ship fish by air is enormous and far outweighs its value as food energy. A very dangerous imbalance if left unchecked. Shipping frozen fish by road or rail can obviously be achieved with a much smaller carbon footprint left in its wake, as speed is not an issue.
I’ve seen some Chefs catching on to these facts lately, mostly due to the high quality frozen product available from companies like Finest at Sea. Much more work needs to be done to educate the public however, and the restaurant industry can set an example by making responsible choices. Organizations like Ocean Wise, Sea Choice and the David Suzuki Foundation have been instrumental in spreading awareness in the industry and giving chefs access to reliable information on seafood choices. Events like the Canadian Chefs Congress and the island Chefs Collaborative Local Food festival are further educating chefs and the public about the issues surrounding the health of our oceans and the importance of sustainable industry practices.
More important than “is it fresh?” are questions like: “where was it caught and how?”, “who caught it?” and “is the species sustainable?” If more of us ask our fish suppliers these questions the more they will be forced to include them in their business model.
For more information on sustainable fish, visit these websites:
http://www.davidsuzuki.org/Oceans/
http://www.iccbc.ca/public/index.html
http://www.vanaqua.org/oceanwise/
Cory Pelan is chef/owner of Ristorante La Piola in Victoria and past president of the Island Chefs Collaborative.
