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EAT Magazine January | February 2010

THIS ISSUE INCLUDES:

Foodie Neighbourhoods
Funky Fernwood
Cold Comfort
Comforting dishes for a winter's night
The Iron Age
Cast iron pans: worth a second look

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Lorenzo Caponetti oiive oil tasting by Slow Food at Bossa Foods Jan 30 at 2:30 pm. Non-members $10. rsvp@slowfoodvancouver.com 

A 2nd showing of Focaccia Blues has been added for Sat, Jan 30 at the Odeon Theatre, 5pm. VIFF

 

Brentwood Bay Lodge extends a warm invitation to explore their spectacular property and pristine surroundings at a very special rate. Until February 11th stay in their of our luxurious OceanSuites for just $99...our best Friends & Family rate.  

During your stay, pry you away from your beautiful room with a crackling fireplace and a jacuzzi tub to visit their SeaGrille fine-dining restaurant and The Spa - Essence of Life to make the most of your experience. 

www.brentwoodbaylodge.com

 

The Niagara Grocery is now stocking Slater's Meats, with fresh selections arriving daily as well as a variety available in the frozen section. 

events
Feb 8 2010

Learn the fascinating history of chocolate in a seminar that will change the way you taste, think and feel about chocolate.  This evening concludes with a comprehensive chocolate tasting.   Warning:  you will leave this seminar, a certified chocolate snob.  There is no going back!

For more information on cooking classes, visit the French Mint website or call Denise Marchessault at 250 294-4500.

Feb 13 2010

On Saturday, February 13, Ched Iain Rennie will teach friends and lovers alike how to prepare the Ultimate Valentine’s Day dinner, with melt-in-your-mouth classics like Prawns Panache, beef tenderloin, and his signature Panache Chocolate Bar. All of this while enjoying some wine and nibbles during your lesson.

 

The Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort & Spa

Saturday, February 13th, 3:00pm – 5:00pm

Cost $101, Call 250-391-7160 to book.

 

Feb 13 2010

Impress your sweetheart this Valentines day with these easy, classic French desserts. In this lesson you will learn to prepare decadent chocolate molten cakes with a raspberry coulis, créme brûlée and luscious vanilla cream filled profiteroles topped with caramel. 

For more information on cooking classes, visit the French Mint website or call Denise Marchessault at 250 294-4500.

Feb 14 2010

February 14th- Deconstructing Dinner  at Muse Winery from 2pm to 4 pm

Presented by the North Saanich Food for the Future Society, organizers of North Saanich Farm Market.

Fragile Economies + Unstable Food Systems + Struggling Farmers + Unpredictable Changing Climate = Vulnerable Communities

Jon Steinman, host of weekly radio show Deconstructing Dinner, will present a slide show and talk on how Canadian communities have become dependent on an unreliable and unsustainable food system.  Learn the implications of our food choices.

Tickets $10. Available at Deep Cove Market,  or reserve by calling Diana Chown 250-656-9633,  Susan McIntyre 250-656-1236, or at the door.

 

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wine of the week

Okanagan Valley

$35-40 for 200ml, $60-65 for 375ml

This was such an easy choice for this week. Why?  Because Inniskillin Icewine dominance is realized worldwide. Because the company’s icewine was selected by Oprah Winfrey as a Valentine’s Day suggestion this year.  Because it was served to accompany the dessert course at the Nobel Prize dinner at which president Obama received his Peace Prize in December 2009.  Because here, on the eve of the Winter Olympics and the world’s attention on BC, we should recognize Canada’s famous contribution to the wine world.  Because Valentine’s Day is next weekend.  And most important - because it’s delicious!  

Ripe peach and apricot aromas lead to rich flavours of juicy pear, orange, apple and intense apricot. Lush and tropical – with a bright Riesling acidity to balance out the incredible creamy sweetness.  

This precious elixir was made from hand harvested Riesling grapes naturally frozen on the vine from highly regarded Dark Horse Vineyard.  Only a few drops of highly concentrated juice come from each frozen bunch. This particular vintage was harvested on New Year’s Day, 2008. We’re spoiled in B.C. with a climate suitable for annual icewine production.  For the majority of the globe, icewine is a rare delicacy.  

The conditions required to produce icewine are harsh, regulated and strict – in a nutshell: grapes must be frozen naturally on the vine at a minimum temperature of -8 degrees celcius, for a minimum of 4 hours and at least 35 Brix sweetness.  The grapes must be picked and pressed immediately – usually in the vineyard (don’t forget it’s below freezing!).  I’d say that easily deserves a gold medal. 

Website

*** and a half stars

By Treve Ring – online web editor

 

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

 

*          Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

**       Good example of varietal type.  

***     Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

****   Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

 

 

Eden Valley, Australia

$28-31

Chardonnay is the world's most well known and widely planted white wine grape. In recent times, its popularity and mass-production spawned the ABC (“Anything But Chardonnay”) Backlash. The heyday of the giant, flabby uber-oaked Californian examples is – thankfully – over.  But oak isn’t bad for chardonnay – in fact, it can be magic (hello white Burgundy).  Successful new world oaked chards strive for stylish subtlety and balance– and if you want to taste what I mean, forget the ABC’s and pick up a bottle of Heggies.

There are seven different selections of Chardonnay clones at Heggies, with three favoured French variants comprising the majority of this wine.  New and used French oak is tempered by vibrant tropical fruit.  Richly textured and full bodied, with bright citrus, creamy pear, toasted almond spice and a lovely vein of minerality.  A big vanillan finish can overwhelm a lot of foods, so pair weight with weight – think butter.

*** stars

Website 

By Treve Ring – online web editor

 

 

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

*          Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

**       Good example of varietal type.  

***     Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

****   Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

 

 

 

Cariñena, Aragon, Spain

$11-13

 

Earlier this month I wrote about a great value white that over delivers for price – and here’s a red counterpart. As much as people love to gripe about the BCLS, we have them to thank for making this value red a consistent bargain in BC.  This is a stellar everyday drinking wine – suitable for everything from burgers to pasta to pizza to poultry.  A perennial party and restaurant by-the-glass favourite, you can afford to buy this by the case.  Castillo de Monséran focuses on just one thing – Garnacha (aka Grenache) – so you have to figure they know their stuff. And they certainly do – fruity raspberry and peppery spice aromas lead to a medium bodied, old-world styled sipper of dusty raspberry, cedar, plum and black currant.  Nice balance and fresh finish – all this for approximately $11!

 

When I purchased this wine a couple of days ago, the clerk waxed poetic about the “Carinena” wine making up this bottle.  Yes, Carignan is a red wine grape popular in the south of France, but Cariñena is a region in Spain. An honest – and somewhat cute – mistake, and a great example of how a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.

**  stars

By Treve Ring – online web editor

 

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

*          Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

**       Good example of varietal type.  

***     Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

****   Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

 

 

Saanich Peninsula, Vancouver Island, BC

$24-26

 

This is a storming wine.  Big gutsy flavour for big blustery days – like January in BC.  Foch is a wine that people either love or love to hate – there’s no middle ground.  But really – what’s not to love about Starling Lane’s version?  A dark ruby colour, with plush vanilla, dark raspberry, deep plum, dusty cocoa, and a lovely spicy finish.  Nice acidity - and thankfully none of the gaminess that would turn this love story sour. This is a big red from a cool climate!  Partner with slow roasted venison or lamb, cracked pepper and glazed root veg.

 

Maréchal Foch [MAY-ray-shahl FOHSH] is a hybrid, grown in North America.  A hybrid is a breeding between two species of vine, in this case vitis vinifera and vitis riparia – in the hopes of gaining the positive benefits of both species.  

 

This wine is sold out at the winery, but there are still a few bottles available at select private liquor stores and savvy restaurants.  Tip – get on Starling Lane’s contact list and reserve for next vintage.

*** and a half stars

By Treve Ring – online web editor

 

 

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

*          Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

**       Good example of varietal type.  

***     Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

****   Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

 

 

Crete, Greece

$12-14

 

Is your resolution to spend less?  Be more adventurous?  Expand your vocabulary?  Well – do I have the wine for you!  While we’re facing the wet BC winter weather, let your thoughts and palate take you to sunny Greece. Even the vibrant blue label harkens the Mediterranean Sea.  

 

Boutari is the Robert Mondavi of Greece, with the winery dating back to 1879 and wine domination pretty much continually since.  Kretikos’ blend will most likely add some new grapes to add to your tasting repertoire: Vilana, Thrapsathiri and Athiri. This pleasantly simple white has wafts of peach and grapefruit aromas and a fresh palate of dried apricot, citrus and almonds.  Bright acidity and refreshing aromatic finish exceed the steal of a price.  Would be a lovely match to creamy cheeses.

**  and a half

By Treve Ring – online web editor

 

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

*          Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

**       Good example of varietal type.  

***     Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

****   Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

 

 

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New Year, New Rice

Celebrating Shogatsu, the Japanese New Year
By Sharon Mah

Thud. Thunk. Whack. The crowd cheers. A line forms as hungry visitors clamour for a turn with the wooden mallet. This is Mochitsuki, an ancient rice-pounding ceremony that occurs during shogatsu, the Japanese new year, which falls on January 1. Mochitsuki usually takes place in late December. At Mochitsuki, rice is pounded until it forms a sticky rice cake called mochi. 

 

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more articles
Hats off to Kathy Kay and the Victoria Film Festival for a unique array of foodie flicks in this year’s line-up.

Business and pleasure equal a most pleasant three-day Victoria getaway for our Vancouver columnist.

Julie catches up with Chef Rob Feenie

the recipe box

Wild Morel Cream Sauce

In the winter months we turn to our store cupboards, looking to preserves and dried foods for a taste of the warmer months. Eric Whitehead, Vancouver Island's professional mushroom forager par excellence (the man behind Untamed Feast), shares his favourite morel recipe with us, adding that dried mushrooms such as morels offer a more intense, concentrated flavour. 


book reviews

Fresh Canadian Bistro

By Craig Flinn

Top Canadian Chefs share their favourite recipes


food heroes

Lee Fuge of FoodRoots

Rhona McAdam

Nowadays it seems many people know about food issues such as sustainability and security. Yet we’re still unaware of those who’ve been blazing the West Coast food trail for the past decade and more. One of those trail-blazers is Lee Fuge. 


Michael Ableman of Foxglove Farm

Katie Zdybel

Perched high up Mt. Maxwell in a clearing you could miss if you didn’t know just how to find it, sits Foxglove Farm, one of BC’s most extraordinary farms.


Barbara-Jo McIntosh

Julie Pegg

Julie Pegg chats with Barbara-jo McIntosh, respected bookseller, author and supporter of the culinary arts, over an “omelette and a glass of wine.” 


Tom Henry

Katie Zdybel


 


UBC Farm

Julie Pegg


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